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New owner, 1979 382 "Island girl"

DGA said:
The foot pump has also been disconnected, I will look at the line to that, it has a bypass connector in it, thanks. I still need to get another tee and hook up the open line, I think that is the cold water to the bathroom, head, as only the hot water runs there now. Another thing, there is a pump that runs when I switch on the shower drain. I thought it was the pump that is in the middle of the bathroom sink cabinet, but that one, whatever it is, is not even wired up. So there is yet another pump I have not found yet.
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Most shower drains rely on a pump under the head sink. The drain line typically runs all the way aft and connects to the torpedo tube. Putting the pump anywhere else woulkd surely reduce it efficiency. Maybe tracing the line will help. The previous owner seems to have done some strange revisions
 
DGA said:
The original galley faucet has 6" centerset, and seems to be an oddball size. Mine is leaking from the swivel, and just needs to be replaced. Does anyone have an idea for a replacement that would work without cutting or hacking the original galley sink?
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The original sing was a 2 hole sink. When I looked there was very limited selection of faucets that fit that, sold for RVs and motorhomes. I just drilled a 3rd hole to fit a standard 2 hole faucet, and the odd hole is covered by the faucet base.
Another idea, is you could buy a single hole faucet with a separate sprayer to use the second hole.
 
I forgot to mention I did something simillar. After bruising my body getting the old faucet out (Mark Pearson has a brilliant idea somewher on the site for putting an access door FORWARD of the sink--highly recommended) I put in a new faucet with a separate sprayer. But to cover the extra hole and spruce things up, I put a 1/8" piece of polished stainless under the faucets and spigot.
 
So it looks like standard kitchen faucet centers are either 4" or 8". 6" do exist but they are always vertical mount types, no good really. Probably easiest to get a wider 8" one and cut two new holes alongside the old ones, and the base will cover the old ones ok. I would like to keep the faucet on center of the twin sinks so that means two holes to cut. Polished brass would match the brass vertical "stripper pole" on the corner of the sink.... When I get around to polishing that too!
 

Residential Kitchen Faucets 6-Inch Counter-Mounted Faucets

Shop the Faucet Shoppe Online for 6
www.chicagofaucetshoppe.com

And they seem to be decent quality made of chromed brass. Had I known of these 5 years ago I might not have drilled for a larger faucet. I'm happy with my faucet now, but the first faucet I installed was an inexpensive 8" kitchen model that corroded and started to leak after a couple years.

Stripper pole? That isn't factory. If there is a pole on the corner of the sink, someone added it. I have seen that before, to add a shelf over the sink.
 
Oh thank you for finding those! I'll see if I can get one here before I go back to the boat the weekend after this. Attached a pic of the pole on the galley bench corner. I think the original owner updated the boat a lot in the few years he had it, mainly to 383 or 384 specs, camel hump helm seat, cabin dorades, maybe he did this too. The long time owner, deceased, I bought it from seemed to remove and bypass things when they broke or wore out. Sad, but at least I get all new equipment and learn about it all.
 

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Small update. I rebuilt the Raritan toilet, it was completely junk inside, the foot valve was no good and the piston seal and rod seal were leaking bad. The plastic clevis on the top of the plunger rod was stripped and screwed back on cross threaded, but it held for the few days we used it. I CNC machined a new one back here at my shop out of aluminum so that finishes that project off.
I got the fridge running again, seems someone had rewired into an unmarked breaker on the power panel and I had switched it off, not knowing what it was. But no amount of temperature knob adjustment seems to control it; it just runs at max all the time. I will fit an electronic temp control and fix that.
I was finally able to get the Genoa up at least. It's a 150 percent I think. Took a lot of time to get the jib sheets running without snagging, and to get the roller furler line to not wrap around the base of the sail. More block positioning and playing with things. Will hoist the main sail next time and see what works there, and what it needs to keep it all happy.
The boat is getting close to be useable now. I will go back for another work day in 9 days and fit the 1500 watt inverter and replace another leaking port light. Little by little I'll get this to be a nice 382.
 
Glad your head is fixed. The Raritan is one of the best heads made, but they do need some love now and then.

Do you know what type of compressor the fridge has? Most all use the same Secop BD35 or BD50. The are pretty straightforward and a simple thermostat switch will work. There are usually 2 resistors in the circuit to the switch. One sets the RPM of the compressor, the other sets a low voltage cutoff so it won't run your battery dead. For best battery life, you want the RPM to be as low as possible but still yielding enough cooling.


150% is a pretty large Genoa. Some people will remove the core of the line that wraps around the drum so it takes up less space, but leave the core in the other end of the line for easy handling. I don't need to do that with my 135%, but my 135% does completely fill the drum. I would only suggest that with newer high modulus type line.
 
I don't know what the refrigerator unit is, no. But the control inside the fridge itself is a mechanical unit with a metal capillary tube going to the fridge unit, mercury bulb type I think.
The Genoa is large enough that I had to move the track pullies back as far as they would go to even get close to a central pull on the sail. I have another Genoa but have not pulled it out of it's bag to see what it is yet.
One question, what purpose do the smaller aft set of winches serve?
 
My boat came, initially, with a 150% genoa. Massive sail that I would want to use only in light winds. I got rid of it and got a 135 and, as I age am considering something smaller, like a 130. I like my vessel, but constrained by budget, I ended up with a jib driven boat--common in the 70s and 80s. I would much prefer a main driven boat, but . . . I have sailed Adavida for 25 years and have adjusted by expectations to match my budget.
 
Is it realistic to keep a 150 Genoa and partially furl it for heavier winds? I never seem to see anyone liking this idea, something to do with the sail losing its shape with the leading edge rolled partially? Or are the losses not really that bad and it works fine? Too much strain on the small furling line to hold it?
 
You can furl a sail for stronger winds, but realistically only to about 80% of the full size. So, a 150 becomes a 120. If you go smaller than that, depending on the cut, you may have to just furl it completely and not use it at all. So, it would depend on where you are. 120 is too big for a windy day in San Francisco. But a 130% would furl to 105%, and that would be ok.
 
A mystery board/ panel pic here.... I have two panels in the port cockpit seat locker that I have no idea what they are or where they go. Not pictured is the other one which is a basic rectangle. Any idea what it is?
 

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Dave, I don't know what that board is for. Are you sure you have a 1979 382? With the helm seat and Perkins 4-108 engine, it looks more like a 384.
 
Only a guess on the board. The port locker has a floor, and a wall/divider from the engine room. Are those in place? It looks like it might be the wall between the locker and engine.
 
Bert, I think someone updated the boat to newer specs, added the curved helm seat, it also has the two cabin dorades that a 382 wouldn't have. It still has the main sheet traveller just in front of the wheel though, and I would have thought that modification would be difficult or impossible to do anyway. It is indeed, a 1979 382 though, hull #152.
Warren, there is no divider wall in place alongside the engine. I can see if that panel somehow fits in there, so it should be used as a vertical wall? When I go down there to work on the engine etc, I usually stand on the raw cooling water inlet seacock, the hull is too sloped to get a decent foothold.
Dave.
 

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I think Warren nailed it from your description of standing in the locker. I posted a picture of the vertical divider/wall on Sonata.
Somewhere here.
Our boat is a 383, but I would suspect you should have a false floor and divider as well. The other possibility is the Rudder quadrant area. Our boat has a false floor over the quadrant and autopilot ram the aft cockpit locker.
Mitchell
 
I have the rudder quadrant false floor in place, and, good thing, there is a ton of stuff, dock lines and fenders etc, on top of it. No autopilot equipment in there though..... Yet anyway.
I'll try a jigsaw puzzle approach to that board this weekend when I go back there to work on her, and see if I can find how it fits in place.
Dave.
 
This is the thread with locker pics. From various members.

Engine access thru port lazarette.

Hi folks, I own hull number 5 and there isn't a bulkhead between the port lazarette and the engine. I'm not sure if it has been modified or what was there from the factory. It isn't ideal since the contents of the lazarette can end up on the engine and shaft. Can someone tell me what was...
www.morgan38.org
 
Thank you.... Interesting. From memory, there are no signs of any kind of port storage locker/ engine compartment wall. Nothing at all. No holes on the locker wall for any vertical wall mounting. There is a small wall outboard of that locker, rising maybe 6" from the hull, on the plane that would intersect the locker lid hinge axis above it. But having no inboard wall in there I appreciate the engine access and can't imagine how hard a wall there would make it. And, when I first opened that seat locker, it was crammed full of Genoa sail and fenders, all bundled in there and I wondered how all that didn't end up cooking on the engine. Maybe it was only there for winter storage.
Dave.
 
My guess is that the 6" wall you have now is really meant to support the floor. I've never removed the floor to look at what's beneath it though. The floor extends outward all the way to the hull.
 
I think you may be right about that being a floor support, will look this Saturday.
I saw a pic on here from someone's boat in the galley, a galley strap. I had the strap end mounts still in place so thought I should find something for a strap, to maybe keep the "cruise director" ( wife) from having a bad cooking experience should we get into rough weather. In the pic you see what I found, I had a new surplus ww2 British Enfield rifle sling spare, it has nice strong steel hook ends with retaining clips, and I think is perfect for this use. The gas stove is a propane camp type stove I found on ebay. It was the perfect width, and I reused the gimbal mounts off the old kerosene stove and added a lift up bar to retain pots in rolling weather.
 

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Well I got the 1500 watt inverter installed last weekend. I ran it through a 60 amp on off on switch, so that switches from shore, off, inverter. I pulled the main electrical panel off and tried to decipher where the shore power wire comes in. But there must be a 110 AC bus connection elsewhere, not at the three breakers. So I connected the number one breaker, which is the starboard outlets, to the switch and turned the inverter on, and heard the large blue battery charger on the starboard side of the engine bay, start to hum. Batteries trying to charge themselves is not a good thing, so I had to disconnect the starboard outlets until I can find where that battery charger gets it's 110v power from, and separate it to only get power from the shore side of the large switch. So I connected the port outlets, and the water heater, breaker #2. All seems to work well. So, wondering where the 110v bus is for those three breakers?
 

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Looking at the photo of your electric panel, it appears to be the original that came with the boat. To find the circuiting for the 110V system you have to look in two places. First in inside the chart table. Inside on the bottom, on the right hand side, you will find a lift up wood panel. Under that panel you will find terminal blocks for 12V wiring on the left and terminal blocks (unprotected), for the 110V wiring on the right. The second place to look is in the locker aft of the steering wheel. Look in and up into the coaming where the 110V shore power cable entrance is. If nothing has been altered on your boat you will find a Square D 30 Amp disconnect switch. That switch, if it is still there, will most likely be a ball of rust. Needless to say the 110V system will need to be updated before any kind of load, heavy or otherwise, can be sustained. Also, if in prior years untrained hands have had occasion to tinker with either the 12V or 110V wiring, your best bet is to inspect every inch to find their mistakes, before you put your faith in any of it.

Jim Cleary
 
Oh yes, I forgot about that lift up panel in the nav table, I'll look at that. I have looked at the square D power box at the stern, mine looks fine, no rust, fresh water great lakes boat all it's life. The electrical system is mostly original aside from a few very old additional depth and speed instruments that no longer work.
 
Ok, yet more questions.... I really appreciate the help here, really!
Two pics from inside the bathroom (head) sink cabinet. First one, through the cabinet door, of the loose non connected terminals, what would these be for? Second pic, from through the laundry hamper (?) Hole, a water pump that is also not connected. I thought at first this was the shower drain pump, but that actually runs. What would this one be?
 

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The terminal block is for the lights on the mast. It looks like its been rewired, and the old wires were not removed. From there they drop into the mast bucket, then to a cabinet on the starboard side, then through a conduit back to the chart table.

The pump is the original shower pump. It must have been replaced and left if there is one somewhere else.
 
Thanks Warren. I don't get the logic with these "modifications" sometimes. You would think it's easier to just replace a dead pump than to put a new one in a different location, and I don't know where that is, not far away from the sound of it running. Guessing the mast wires are damaged so is why they are replaced, not sure why they weren't removed as well. The mysteries continue with this Morgan lol.....
Dave.
 
It might (or might not) make sense when you find it. I replaced the stock pump with like kind. Finding a diaphragm pump that fit the shelf and had the right configuration for hoses wasn't cheap. However, much better, and also larger, pumps can be had for less money. So, maybe it was replaced with a better and cheaper pump that just didn't fit there.

Also, the stock discharge is through a tiny 3/8" ID hose that runs all the way to the stern. That doesn't work well at all with soap scum and hair going through it. I modified mine to discharge into the sink drain.
 
I finally got the main sail up out here in lake St Clair near Detroit. The attached pic shows the topping lift cable sawing away at the leech(?) And I can't pull any more tension to flatten the sail out. So, do I have the topping lift attached to the wrong place? And, if I somehow move it to the end of the boom, that will put even more tension on the lift, and more twist in the main. Is there some way to release the topping lift, or how to lengthen it, so th n I can move it further out on the boom. I'm sure this is where it was attached originally.
 

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Yes! It's nice to see the sail up isn't it? Yes, should be led to boom end. On Sonata, it comes down to a shave and leads forward inside the boom to cleat near the Gooseneck. Plenty of adjustability.
Mitchell
 
Looking at your photo, the clew should probably be attached to the boom too. Either a slide or even tied down on the boom. Will help with sail shape once your topping lift is sorted.
M
 
The clew of the sail should be attached to the car on your boom which is visable in the photo. From there a line is run over a sheve in the end of the boom an attached to a pully system inside the boom, and then attached to a line that runs forward and exits the boom at the mast, and cleats to a device similar to a cam cleat, but only one sided. This allows fo tensioning the foot of the sail. My topping lift was a wire from the top of the mast, ending in an eye. A line was run from the topping lift thru the end of the boom and exited on the port side to a cleat. You adjust the topping lift as needed. You will need to remove both ends of the boom to accomplish this. Fortunately mine was not seized, but can can imangine that the screws could be. Search the arcives for topping lift.
 
Hmm. There isn't a moveable car on the boom, what I think you see is a fixed bracket, there is another pulley there that I don't know what is for, possibly that should have an eye on it for the sail? Lots of unused lines inside the boom, one on the left side I think is for a reef line.
 
Thought about this a lot on the drive back to Indy, if you zoom in on the aft boom pic, just hanging behind the main sheet block, there is a single pulley block hanging down there, not attached to anything. I think if I had a small shackle, that would attach to the topping lift eye. Would then find the line from that, at the front of the boom, and have some way to lower the topping lift. I wonder if the bracket i attached it to now is a sort of "storage" bracket for that use?
 
I happened to be sailing when I read this, so I took a picture of the end of my boom. Note the following in the picture. First, the topping lift, I eased it in the picture for better visibility, It is the loose line with a block on it. There is a length of line (originally a cable) from the masthead to a few feet above the end of the boom. Then, a line runs from the front of the boom, through the boom, out the aft around a sheave, and through the block before attaching to the end of the boom. This gives you a purchase so its easier to raise the boom with the weight of the sail flaked on it. Then, when the sail is up, you ease the topping lift so it is slack, and there is no twist in the sail. (Twist while sailing is properly controlled by the main sheet and traveler position not the topping lift. But that is another discussion.)

Also note in this picture that the tack is attached to a slide. That slide is visible in your picture, but further forward. It might be frozen from corrosion, but you should be able to break it loose, and it needs to move freely to adjust the foot of the sail. Another line from that slide goes around a sheave at the end of the boom, into the boom. Inside the boom there is a block and tackle for more power to tension the foot of the sail, and it also exits the front of the boom. Getting that block and tackle out to service it and change the line is a PITA, but it needs to work smoothly to really get the foot tight, or to ease the foot in light winds.

The red line is a reefing line, one of three I have but you possibly only would have one or two. The first reef (what you see in this picture) The line is tied around the boom, it goes up though a cringle in the luff of the sail, then down to the aft of the boom, around a sheave (there are 3 sheaves at the end of the boom) then through the boom and out the front of the boom.

The Second reef, which is not visible here, is external of the boom. In your picture, the block on the side of the boom with a line that exits the boom and hangs off it, that block is for the second sail reef. IMG_20230813_145631802.jpg
 
DGA said:
Thought about this a lot on the drive back to Indy, if you zoom in on the aft boom pic, just hanging behind the main sheet block, there is a single pulley block hanging down there, not attached to anything. I think if I had a small shackle, that would attach to the topping lift eye. Would then find the line from that, at the front of the boom, and have some way to lower the topping lift. I wonder if the bracket i attached it to now is a sort of "storage" bracket for that use?
Click to expand...

I just zoomed into that. That is the block shown in my picture for the topping lift. The "bracket" is a slide. It might be frozen from corrosion, but it slides to the back of the boom and the tack of the sail connects to it.
 
Ahh, that all makes sense, yes, I can attach that block to the topping lift, the shackle is missing though, might have to take a trip to the local West Marine (sadly....). I have a pulley on the side of the boom, just under the first reef point, I figured that was for the first reef, I'll look for the other line then. As for the car for the tack, it's not there, and the bracket I have the topping lift on, it's fastened in place, not in the track, and it's offset to one side ( I think). Wondering if the car is at the front of the boom, if so I'll have to remove the foot of the sail to slide it aft. All my experience with rigging is on the 13' dingy I had, no topping lift, no reefing, so this is all new to me. Learning fast.
I won't be able to go back to the boat for a couple of weeks to fix all this, bummer.
Dave.
 
DGA said:
Ahh, that all makes sense, yes, I can attach that block to the topping lift, the shackle is missing though, might have to take a trip to the local West Marine (sadly....). I have a pulley on the side of the boom, just under the first reef point, I figured that was for the first reef, I'll look for the other line then. As for the car for the tack, it's not there, and the bracket I have the topping lift on, it's fastened in place, not in the track, and it's offset to one side ( I think). Wondering if the car is at the front of the boom, if so I'll have to remove the foot of the sail to slide it aft. All my experience with rigging is on the 13' dingy I had, no topping lift, no reefing, so this is all new to me. Learning fast.
I won't be able to go back to the boat for a couple of weeks to fix all this, bummer.
Dave.
Click to expand...
I am quite sure that bracket moves. It looks to be the same one as on my boom. When I got my boat it was stuck, and required quite a bit of cleaning the track and hammering it back and forth to get it to move freely again.
 
Save a trip to WM. You have what appears to be an unnecessary, redundant shackle on the clew of the main. Use that if it's appropriate size and tie the outhaul to the sail or slider on the boom. My out haul car was frozen up too. Took some time and Mclube to free it up. I agree too that the stuff hanging at the end of the boom appears to be topping lift tackle.
 
20230814_170036.jpg20230814_170028.jpg

I was aboard Sonata the past few days working on things. I took these pictures for you and hope they may help.
Second shows the outhaul car, first shows our topping lift. It attaches to our Dutchman system, so a little different than yours but accomplishes the same effect. Both controls go into the boom and forward to cleat near the Gooseneck.
Mitchell
 
Thanks Mitchell, I will be back on Island girl next Wednesday evening, with all the info you guys have I'm sure it will all make sense. Two additional improvements this time, aside from fixing the screwed up boom rigging, I made a folding trash bag holder that mounts aft of the galley bulkhead, goes just under the "trash door" there, also fitting and wiring the electronic fridge control, mount that just under the 110v outlet in that same galley bulkhead.
 
Just a note on the outhaul car. The car shown in Mitchell's photo is the original Kenyon car. When the clew of the sail is pinned in the upper hole and the outhaul cable is pinned to the lower hole, there is a torque created that will tend to distort the pin that holds the fitting to the boom track. Over time that will interfere with the ability of the car to slide in the track. A better way is to connect the outhaul cable and the clew of the sail to the same pin on the car. That way there is no torque introduced and the car slides free. To do this you may need to spread the car open some and use a longer clevis pin.

Jim
 
I can picture that, the car trying to roll forwards and binding on the track, yes, makes sense, will look at that too.
 
I brought my other Genoa and the Spinnaker home so I could open them out on the lawn and see what they were. The Genoa is in really nice condition, the luff measures 38' and the foot 19'. I looked at the sail plan pdf on here and the text wasn't legible. So what is this Genoa size?. It's certainly smaller than the one on the boat now, which I think is a 150.
The Spinnaker is in a sock, looks like you would pull the sock upwards. Probably more rigging and setup than I can manage now. One day maybe.
 

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DGA
Sometime ago you posted a photo and asking what the two panels are that you found in the port locker. Maybe you already figured it out, but those are the port locker bottom and side panels.

I recognize the one in the photo as the bottom of the Port locker . The little square that is framed out is the hatch that is over the original engine cooling water thru hull fitting, with a finger hole in the center to allow you to lift out the square hatch. The other piece that you didn't photograph is probably the side of the locker that separates it from the engine space.

The side bolts to the fiberglass of the inboard side of the port cockpit seat, just above the deck. On my boat there are three or four carriage bolt had that show in the cockpit on the vertical surface just above the cockpit deck. The plywood side panel is hanging from those bolts on the inside of the locker. The side panel doesn't reach the bottom of the hull, just goes down past the floor panel where they are fastened together . The outboard edge of the floor panel is sitting against the side of that fiberglassed board you mentioned about 6 " high and about 18" away.

I know this because I took these panels out in preparation for our engine replacement a few years ago. I made a new floor panel when I put them back. We moved the engine cooling water seacock into the engine compartment so it would be more convenient. Plus the seacock was very small and had a 90 degree elbow under the floor of the cockpit, and plugged up too easily.

You definitely want to put the locker panels back in place to separate stuff from your engine.
 
Thanks Stephen. I think what is wrong with that locker floor is the seacock has been replaced with a larger ball valve type, and the cutout needs to be enlarged to fit that. The other board behind the floor in that pic, doesn't seem like it's wide, or tall enough to be the wall alongside the engine, also there are no holes in it that match the ones in the locker side fiberglass cockpit wall. I'll see if I can get the floor to work, but I really like the open engine access and wouldn't want the vertical wall. SO MANY things to do on the boat, I'll get to that soon.
Dave.
 
DGA said:
I brought my other Genoa and the Spinnaker home so I could open them out on the lawn and see what they were. The Genoa is in really nice condition, the luff measures 38' and the foot 19'. I looked at the sail plan pdf on here and the text wasn't legible. So what is this Genoa size?. It's certainly smaller than the one on the boat now, which I think is a 150.
The Spinnaker is in a sock, looks like you would pull the sock upwards. Probably more rigging and setup than I can manage now. One day maybe.
Click to expand...
Here is a link to the restored sail plan that is legible.
Post in thread 'Owner's Set of Drawings' https://www.morgan38.org/morgan38/index.php?threads/owners-set-of-drawings.16090/post-136449

It looks like your Genoa would more be classified as a jib. A 38' luff and 19 foot foot is pretty small.

The sock is really nice to have. It makes it easi(er) to handle a spinnaker by yourself.
 
jimcleary said:
Just a note on the outhaul car. The car shown in Mitchell's photo is the original Kenyon car. When the clew of the sail is pinned in the upper hole and the outhaul cable is pinned to the lower hole, there is a torque created that will tend to distort the pin that holds the fitting to the boom track. Over time that will interfere with the ability of the car to slide in the track. A better way is to connect the outhaul cable and the clew of the sail to the same pin on the car. That way there is no torque introduced and the car slides free. To do this you may need to spread the car open some and use a longer clevis pin.

Jim
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Jim, I wish I had known that when I owned Royal Tern. I had all kinds of troubles getting the car to move. Checked all the lines in the boom, replaced them, nothing worked.
 
The sunbrella cover etc on it exactly matches the 150 Genoa I have on the boat now, I think it was his heavy weather jib, and it hasn't been used much.
 
Ok, much better. The pulley is missing out of the topping lift block, but it works for now. So, I have yet another line coming out from the end of the boom, hanging down in the pic, that I don't know what is for. Too far aft to be a reef line?
 

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That one should be for your first reef point. On mine it comes out of the end of the boom port side like yours. Then up to first reef point and ties off at an eye maybe a foot or two forward of the aft end of boom on stbd side.
 
DGA said:
Ok, much better. The pulley is missing out of the topping lift block, but it works for now. So, I have yet another line coming out from the end of the boom, hanging down in the pic, that I don't know what is for. Too far aft to be a reef line?
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The stock config has 3 lines coming out of the boom. Starboard side is the 1st reefing line(ideally it would be forword but it works and is the stock location) Center is the outhaul for the main. There is a block and tackle for this line inside the boom. Port side is the topping lift
 
I understand it I think. Run the reef line up through the first reef point then back down to the boom and tie off on one of the points there. So the line on the pulley on the port side of the boom a few feet forward from the end is the second reef line, run that also up and back down and tie off on the boom. Will set that up tomorrow when we head out into lake Huron and go north. Well, of course there is a south wind predicted, so will be tacking, which is fine.
 
Some excellent info in that, very helpful.
So, went on a three day trip up the st Clair river and into lake Huron. First marina (there are NO anchorages or public docks on the river) had a lifting drawbridge, little scary as your shrouds go past the serrated bridge fingers... All went ok there. Next morning we headed north. The alternator belt often squeals a little as the batteries need some charge from an overnight use. I fed just a little throttle in to not burn the belt up, and it's as tight as I think it should be. The squealing went away and I brought it up to 2500 rpm and went north. A few minutes later I looked at the engine panel and was horrified to see the temp at 200 F. First thought was the extra load on the alternator had broken the belt and the water pump had stopped. I shut the engine off and left the wife to steer as the current now sent us south. The belt looked fine so I looked at the raw water strainer, it was clean. Then removed the raw water pump cover, the new impeller I had put in was fine. Now I'm confused, and realized we couldn't steer the boat in the current, so I pulled the Genoa out and told her to just sail while I try to fix it. I had a spare refrigerator electronic controller, so I used jump wires and put the sensor in the coolant header tank, the antifreeze was where it always was, 160 or so. So at least it wasn't really overheating. So decided the gauge was failing, and went to start the engine, nothing. The panel had no power to the gauges, and the key was not doing anything. Checked for 12 volts with a multimeter, nothing. So I shorted across the starter power to solenoid terminal and the Perkins fired up. Pulled the sail in and turned the boat around and carried on north. But now with no alternator. So I think the extra load the alternator sent in the system shorted something. At the next marina I pulled the covers off the main battery bus connectors, a big corroded mess. Cleaned it with vinegar and a small wire brush, cut old terminals and replaced with new. Still nothing. I'm at a loss now. Something between the batteries and the alternator and the engine panel is dead. Two pics, one of the corroded bus and the other of the engine temp test.
 

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Its counter intuitive, but the alternator needs 12v to work. If that 12v is missing from the key switch, the alternator won't make power. So the issue is probably between the battery and key switch.
A burned out alternator light will also prevent an alternator from working, but you would still have power to the rest of the panel.
 
The temperature gauge rising is probably because of a voltage change, so I think the power to the gauges went away over a short time, and not instantly, making me think the alternator died, but doesn't explain why the panel has no power.
 
Yes, the alternator field coils need power, to be energized for the alternator to make power, so the lack of power from a broken or melted wire is likely what is wrong.
 
Going back to the Mainsail boom connections. Here are a couple of photos of Dana boom connections. The three turning blocks are reef lines. the two lines from the back of the boom are the topping lift and the green traced line is the outhaul. The block that was internal in the boom is gone. The outhaul is a direct line. The car that holds the clew to the boom is a modification of the original car. The out haul line is directly connected to the clew of the sail. the car only holds the clew down and is only subjected to tensional force, no torque. The car now slides freely in the boom slot.

Jim
 

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Hmm, the pulley blocks on the starboard of the boom are different. Mine has two line attachment eyes there that line up with the two reef points, so I will run lines down to them and tie off there I think. Your rig looks nice, mine the lines are old and hard and mossy, I need to buy some Dynema in different colours and rebuild it all. Planning another work day or two trip in a few weeks, will try to sort it all out then.
I'm about done with the 150 Genoa, it was a good sail for the 7 knot winds on lake Huron, pointing close to the wind until the cruise director decided we weren't going to make the booked marina so I had to motorsail. But the next day was a whole different condition, a wind from the north so it would be downwind all the way, but at 17 to 25 with gusts to 30. I tried to let a little of the Genoa out and it got away from me, pretty scary, the boat turned to port hard and rounded up like now! As usual the roller furler had snag issues, so I had to go to the bow to fix it. Lying on the deck and looking down at the bottom of a wave 25' down as the bow rose up and down, trying to throw me off the deck. I'm highly impressed at the rough weather capabilities of the Morgan 38, took every bit of wave and nasty weather and just kept going. Had 40 knot winds on the beam crossing lake st Clair at 10 pm, motoring only, boat was heeling 40 degrees left and right, very confidence building. It just hangs in there.
 
I put the furling line on a winch. A caution, it can be dangerous to use a winch to furl the sail. But if you want to ease the sail out, or even bring it in by hand, it is a whole lot easier to work with than a cleat. I still _usually_ work the furling line by hand but use the winch as a break to control it.

Having the main sail up, even if it is the 3rd reef in 40kts of wind, will make the boat motor much better without healing and swaying back and forth.

The blocks on the starboard side are a modification. Many people prefer reef lines external to the boom, and you do get a better angle on the 2nd and 3rd reefs. Stock has the first reef on the starboard side internal to the boom, and the second reef on the port side external to the boom.

I can't imagine not having the block and tackle for the outhaul. Even with the block and tackle it takes a lot of effort to get the sail flat when the wind picks up. I could see it working if you set it at the dock and never adjust it sailing.
 
There is a winch on the inboard end of the boom that is used to control the outhaul and the reef lines. Just before that winch is a triple line stopper for the reef lines so the winch is free for other uses.

At the end of every season, all the lines on the boat go home for a wash. They go into the washing machine with detergent only. Out of the wash they are an entwined balls of line that get hung up to dry. After a number of days drying I grab a ball and sit watching TV and untangle it. The lines are clean and soft and ready for the next season.

When we first acquired Dana, she had a 150% that was rather long in the tooth. Sailed with that sail and always felt the boat was overpowered and mostly out of control. When it came time to get a new headsail, meaning we now had enough money, our sail guy said to go with a 130%. I couldn't believe the difference in the sail power and control. That 150% was all leeway and no drive. I think most Morgan owners would tell you to ditch the big sail.

Jim
 
I need to buy line for the reefing lines and also the topping lift line, I didn't measure the diameter of these when we last moored the Morgan, it was 11pm and had a lot of work to do to get out of there and on the road home. Does anyone know off hand what size these are?
 
I have four blocks leading back to the cockpit. I don't know what it has there now, but I think it makes sense, in order from left to right, run the main halyard, topping lift, first reef and second reef. So would be able to remember which line is which, aside from the colours of line, that I may forget in an emergency. Run them in order I would use them. Aside from the main halyard, these existing lines need to be replaced, all hard and moss covered, little left for identification colors either.
Does anyone recall the approximate line length for, say, the second reef line, which is probably the longest? I will cut these to the minimum length to reduce clutter after they are fitted.
 

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