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New owner, 1979 382 "Island girl"

DGA

DGA

Member
Hello. I am Dave, the new owner of Island girl, from north of Detroit on lake st Clair. Bought the boat from the widow of it's owner, so I have little info to go off about it. Has been sitting in it's cradle in the yard for over a year. Seems to be in original, barely updated or modified. I am a low time dinghy sailor, but have studied yachting for over ten years. I'm a bit nervous about this boat, but am an engineer and race car career mechanic and composites guy.
I downloaded a 382 manual I found on here, thanks for that. I have spent about 10 hours with the boat so far, trying to get it cleaned up, learn all I can as quickly as possible. I'm based out of Indianapolis, so it's a 4.5 hour drive each way.
The mast to cabin seal was leaking rain water in, as well as most of the port lights, broken hinges etc. Resealed the mast after digging out pounds of window glazing putty and duct tape from around it and then added a nitrile rubber sheet strip and butyl sealing tape. Replaced one port light so far. The originals protrude out from the cabin side over an inch, and because of this have been stepped on and broken. I used 1" long new Beckson 14x4" and this makes them flush, which looks neater. Has self tapping screws from inside which didn't seem to hold so I will drill through and use stainless screws from outside and nuts inside.
Many, many questions to come I'm sure, I've rambled on enough for now!
 
Dave

Congratulations on buying Island Girl. I think you will find that you have made a good investment. Once you get past the repair of immediate problems you'll get to sit back and sail her and learn what she needs to make her yours. This board has a wealth of knowledge about almost any task you can be faced with. Please post your questions freely. you may get somewhat different answers to many questions but they will, for the most part, be good and helpful.

Jim Cleary, Dana 1978 382
 
Thanks Jim, I'm pretty excited about it all. I intend to sail around the great lakes for a season or two, and then, if I feel the boat and myself are ready, and I can talk the wife into it, we would head east to the ICW and out past New York and head south to warmer climates.
A few questions.... It has no anchor, chain or rode, or anchor winch. Was there a winch originally?
There are remnants of some sort of autopilot, a large tooth belt hanging on a knurled pulley behind the wheel, and maybe a mount for a servo on the cockpit floor. Original?
It still has a loran C above the nav table, a real relic.
But it does have two Raymarine displays on the binnacle, a depth and a water speed, neither of which seem to be wired yet, think they were new and not fully installed, the sensors for both are just starboard of the keel.
I think this boat lived summers docked at his private dock and never anchored out, and was raced a lot, based off the papers in the nav table. I bought 200 watts of solar panels and a 1500 watt inverter to at least have some self reliance, and will get an anchor etc, plus a dinghy. It has dinghy davits off the stern, so that's handy at least, plus a good place to mount the solar panels.
 
Dave

One step at a time. Your first task will be to slowly bring your wife up to speed with your dream. A word of advice: don't ever raise your voice and always explain what is going on. I had to learn all that the hard way. Here is a photo of "Dana". Over the bimini is 225 watts of solar panels. Keeps everything running. If your plan is to do the ICW someday, you will need refridgeration. If you do install a fridge, you must rebuild the existing icebox. There is a lot on the subject in the archives. The boats never came with a windlass. Anchoring preferences will differ with every boat. We carry a 45lb Manson Supreme anchor with 225' of 5/16" G4 high tensile chain controlled by a Lofrans Tigre windlass. We sleep very well at night. To do the ICW journey some things are not a priority, such as radar and an autopilot. If you stay inside on the ditch you will be mostly motoring and going buoy to buoy. And as you get below the Chesapeake, fog is a rarity. Your engine will need to be very reliable with a lot of spare parts and oil change stuff. There's lots to think about. When you do make the trip through the Erie to the Hudson, Stop by in Western Long Island Sound, Glen Cove NY, we'd love to meet you.

Jim
 

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The wife was sort of mad about the purchase but has quickly "come about" and is pretty excited about it too, but nervous about open water. She will be fine.
The refrigerator does work, and seems to get quite cold. The Perkins cranks over and started to fire but I didn't want to run it with no sea water in the impeller so I stopped cranking. There is 4 quarts of diesel oil and a filter in one of the dozens of storage spots so I will change it if I can figure out how to drain it. I probably should replace the prop stuffing seal while it's in it's cradle. Also try to move all the sea cocks. The depth sounder is a must to get working I think too. So, many days of work yet, but I do enjoy this sort of thing, so between the two best boat ownership days, buy and sell day, the work ones are also fun I think.
 
I always breathe a sigh of relief when I hear a newbie say they have mechanical skills! You can do composites too! YOU WILL BE FINE! The fact that you are going after T-hulls, stuffing box, cabin leaks and depth sounder shows that you understand the hierarchy of priorities. The ICW and points south are a well worn path that given your foundation of common sense is very achievable for you. It's also a fantastic journey that your wife is going to love! A good anchoring system is in order, there are lots of posts in the archive on that subject. After you focus on keeping the water out, the anchor and your rigging/sails I would recommend a powerful below deck autopilot, especially for the ICW. Hitting +1 every 15 minutes or so is way more pleasant than being glued to the helm for 10 hours a day. I hated the waterway until I installed one. Because below deck pilots are attached directly to the quadrant they are an important first back up (you still need a emergency tiller but our boats came with one) should your steering cables fail. You have to go outside the waterway in places like New Jersey and you can literally shave weeks or a month off calender days off your trip with a couple of strategic overnighters (Georgia). Having a good pilot in those situations is a no brainer. Radar is nice but not essential. Yes to new a VHF with AIS, replace the cable to the mast head. Tablets/phones are replacing/supporting fixed GPS units these days so while you still may want a fixed gps it can be a less exspensive smaller one if your using a tablet or phone. I just did a Bahamas cruz using my phone as the primary, the fixed gps as reference and a handheld gps unit as a back up.
Congrats Dave! Welcome to the club!
 
Thanks! I'm excited to be here. So, for a planned work day trip next week, a couple of questions.
1. To replace the prop shaft packing, I understand it to be 3/16" square packing material, and to use three 'circles' of it. What tool will I need to get the gland nut off, a big adjustable wrench or?
2. How to drain the engine oil, Perkins 4-108, is there an accessable drain plug or should I try to suck the old oil out of the dipstick hole?
 
There is a drain plug in the lower left (as you face the engine looking aft) of the engine. that is what I used for 20 years. I think many owners pump it thru the dipstick. The real peoblem is the oil filter, which is open on the bottom and pours oil every where when unscrewed. I used to wait for it to drain before unscrewing, but that oil was cold. There are a number of youtube videos and google links about changing oil in perkins 4-108.
 
DGA, welcome to the Morgan world. These are truly incredible but under appreciated boats (by the outside world).
If you do a search for "Rudder wrench" I think you'll find our older threads regarding these and Prop shaft wrenches I made and provided to the group. If you're interested in a set, 3, I still have a few. Let me know. If need be, I'd ship them overnight or whatever you want.
I'll try to find the old thread...
Mitchell
 
Thanks Bert and Mitchell. You know, I think I saw a wrench like that in one of the cabinets or drawers..... So much stuff I don't remember where! I'll go back and find it again.
Another question, where is the serial or data plate located?
 
Dave, I do not know if you are looking for hull # hin which was descibed above or the engine serial # which can be seen in this video.
If link does not work google perkins 4-108 and you can find it. I think some members have had difficulty dealing with foley engines and might suggest a different supplier.
 
Hi, I am just trying to find out what the hull number is, see if it's a later or earlier built 382.
 
The HIN (equiv to a VIN) will tell you if it is a 382. The HIN of a 382 is in the format MRY22xxxMyyz where xxx is the hull number, yy is the year, and z is the month. The HIN is molded into the hull, on the stern, starboard side.

The hull number can also be found in many hidden places, inside cabinets, etc. , as parts were made they were labeled as to what boat they went to.
 
It's interesting, though trivial I guess. Our HIN IS 330, BUT, nearly all the other indicators, Overhead panels, etc are labeled 029, as is the sail number currently. If I recall, when I pulled the galley cabinet out it had 330 written on the top or back.
M
 
That is interesting. I have heard a few cases where various parts were off by one or two, but never by 300. I imagine there were several boats in the factory at one time, and multiple cabinets, headliners, and other parts were made for each of them at the same time, and marked as they were built as to what boat they went with. And sometimes they could get mixed up. In your case, maybe hull 29 had the wrong parts installed, or wasn't completed, or similar, and they sat around until someone grabbed them for your boat.
 
Yet another question.... Do the Perkins 4-108 engines and transmissions have inch, imperial bolts or metric? My guess is inch, but the age could be on the cusp of a change, and I'm trying to make sure I have the right spanners ( English for wrenches... I am a Kiwi after all...) And sockets.
 
Imperial, at least for all the nuts and bolts I ever accessed. For instance, on my 4-108 the bleed screws on the injection pump were 5/16" and the nuts holding the fuel lines onto the injectors were 5/8". If treated well, the Perkins are tough. Do you know if the prior owners replaced rear and front seals? If not, they tend to leak. And the leak from the rear tends to collect on the bell housing, so you may not know it. I am replacing mine because it has 6500 hours (young by Perkins standards) and some things were wearing out and it is producing some dirty exhaust. ( Maybe I just needed to have the injectors cleaned.) But I am not a mechanic and I feared, given our offshore work, that something inside might break at an inopportune time. There are two Facebook groups for Perkins 4-107s and 108s.
 
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I bought this boat from the widow of the owner, so I have zero maintenance records, and there wasn't any ship's log anywhere to be found either. It has a drip tray of sorts under the engine and I saw some oil in it, but not an alarming amount, so I don't know. The motor does look like crap, paint and corrosion etc. The engine hour meter only says 182 hours but I think it has been changed, it does not match the other instruments in appearance.
I'm going to try to put a drain pan in front of the engine and run a small angled funnel and hose back to the drain plug to get the oil out. It will spill some, but hopefully not much.
 
I found that black exhaust in my perkins was caused by lack of air. I found that their is a screen over the air in take that would get clogged. I cleaned it using carborator cleaner.
 
Thanks for the air intake screen tip, it might have been 50% blocked or more. Gave it a hose down with brake clean.
I have a lot of, what I thought, was kerosene smell, quite strong when the boat has been sealed up for awhile. It had the original kerosene stove and pressure tank. I cut the hose and lifted the stove out and threw it over the side ( on the hard of course....) and have bought a new propane stove for it which I am modifying to fit in the space. The tank is still there but I shut the outlet tap off. The smell has been reduced, but it's still there. I'm not so sure it is all kerosene and is possibly diesel. So, looking at the fuel tank outlet and guage, the tank is overfilled, well, last the top of the tank and up the filler pipe I think.. see the pic, it has diesel grime all over it. So some more brake clean and left it over night and the next day I see some more around the gasket flange. I think the rubber tank seal has deteriorated in it's 44 year life and needs to be new. So, are there threads in the tank, once I run the engine some and get the fuel level down below the top, what issues will I run into in fitting a new buna N rubber gasket?
 

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DGA

Inspect the diesel fill hose from the top of the tank to the deck fill which is behind the cabinet to port of the area with the hot water heater. The old hose might be in need of replacement. As the hose get old it loses it permeability and begins to give off a diesel smell.

Jim
 
I haven't found the hot water heater yet, where do I go to look for that? I see the diesel deck filler, I'll trace from there down and find the hose. On the hot water heater topic, I see two foil wrapped hoses coming from the sides of the engine and going down under the floor, looked like it might be some sort of auxiliary heating system?
Honestly, there are so many systems to look at, I get distracted and end up working on something else in the same area!
Dave.
 
Dave, most likely the water heater is below the pantry locker that's to port of the sink. Pull the floor of that out to access it. Also you should be able to get to the front of the heater below the sink.
The 2 hoses go to the heater for the engine heat source. It should be 110v ac/engine coolant heat source.
Mitchell
 
Dave, I just had that fuel lid off recently to clean the tank. Tough job but possible. There is a steel rectangular plate with the middle cut out. Around the perimeter of the plate there are bolts welded to it. This plate is in the tank and the bolts pass through holes in the fiberglass tank top. That is what the nuts on the tank lid fasten to. Because all the bolts pass through the tank are not perfectly aligned the bolt plate will stay put when the nuts are taken off. There are holes in the floor to get at two of the nuts. Next, get all the hoses off and pull out the gauge. Don't even try to get the fuel hose off, it's so stiff and stuck. Just cut it off with a one handed hack saw and beware of the sharp wire reinforcement. Replace the fill hose to the deck, it's permeated and stinks. The fuel pick up has a tube that runs to the bottom of the tank. This has to be removed to get the lid out. If I recall it threads into the lid, I recall reaching under the lid with vise grips to unscrew it from the lid. Even with everything removed the lid is tough to get out through the hole in the floor. While you have the lid off you should really consider cleaning the inside of the tank. Pump all the fuel into jerry cans (borrow them). Then wipe everything you can reach with cloth rags. Be meticulous. Even a little bit of fuz from the rags or crud from the cabin sole can plug the fuel lines. When you add fuel back into the tank do it one jerry can at a time recording the fuel for every five gallons. I used a baha filter when I put the fuel back in to filter out any gunk.
https://www.westmarine.com/flotool-large-conductive-portable-fuel-filter-16923609.html
The tank is not rectangular in cross section so the gauge is misleading and there is less fuel than gauge suggests when the fuel gets low.
The end result will be a trouble free and smell free fuel system and that is worth the work!
 
Thank you Dave, some good info. I wish the tank was almost empty, or even partially full, so I could just do it all now while up on the hard, but I think it's overfull, well, up the fill pipe at least, because the guage lens has fuel in it, so I'll run the engine some to get the level down. Plan is for one more weekend of work, doing whatever I can get done, and then we are putting it in the water on the 5th July. Scary yet exciting time for me! I'm pretty sure it won't sink at least...... And won't leak anything from up top.
I bought Island girl from the widow of the owner, well, she was owner too, and she misses having it tied up 30' from her living room on it's private dock, so I rented the space from her for the summer. Possibly brings back some wonderful memories for her. I hope it does.
 
I have never removed the top plate from the tank. Sounds like a big job. I know there are bolts under the sole to the port. If I knew where I could drill holes in the sole toi access them I guess. How does one do that?

The fuel gauge is useless on my boat. I installed a Tank Tender . I love it.
 
On the fuel tank, I have a card, out on Vixen which is in the water now here in Marion it gives the true reading
as to what the gauge says will try an photo it when next on Vixen!
Dick
 
Dave As to all the other stuff as Jim says, although our boats are old, many owners have done many things that can give you information of everything from thiis website . Sometimes it’s difficult to find things but if you keep searching, you will find whatever you’re looking for. That is because whatever is going on with your boat has gone on with somebody else before. And they will have described what the fix is You may get multiple answers, but then you have to figure it out for you between them. I’m an original owner and you’ll find many old posts by me in the archives.
Enjoy your boat, enjoy your life, and remember you only have whatever time God has given you, so use it. Don’t wait until you think everything is wonderful because It never will be. It’s a boat and boats always have problems.
Post any questions you have on here and you will get answers from someone who has experience the same thing My engine is one of the original units that Morgan used. It is a Yanmar3QM30. So I won’t be able to answer any questions on the Perkins for 108. And I do now, all the people on here. Will try to give you help as you go along and feel very lucky that you have a good website. as. this one

Dick
 
dickkilroy said:
Dave As to all the other stuff as Jim says, although our boats are old, many owners have done many things that can give you information of everything from thiis website . Sometimes it’s difficult to find things in The archives, but if you keep searching, you will find whatever you’re looking for. That is because whatever is going on with your boat has gone on with somebody else before. And they will have described what the fix is You may get multiple answers, but then you have to figure it out for you between them. I’m an original owner and you’ll find many old posts by me in the archives.
Enjoy your boat, enjoy your life, and remember you only have whatever time God has given you, so use it. Don’t wait until you think everything is wonderful because It never will be. It’s a boat and boats always have problems.
Post any questions you have on here and you will get answers from someone who has experience the same thing My engine is one of the original units that Morgan used. It is a Yanmar3QM30. So I won’t be able to answer any questions on the Perkins 4 108. And I do know all the people on here will tryn to give you help as you go along and feel very lucky that you have as good website. as. this one

Dick
Click to expand...
 
Dave, there is a boat on lake Saint Clair that My late wife Judy and I kept in the Caribbean for 14 years, it is a Catalina 38, my late wife and I lived on it for 14 years in the winter in the Caribbean. The name of the Catalina is “Dashaway”, The owner is my son Dave who Judy and I gave the boat to in 2013, when I felt the Caribbean was becoming too much for Judy and I! Dave is divorced and he’s living with a college girlfriend in Royal Oak Michigan and keeping the boat on lake Saint Clair at their yacht club. Whose name is failing me right now. their Yacht club on Saint Clair is Running a race from Michigan up to Mackinac. I think Dave is doing that this year. He has also tried the trans superior a couple of years ago, but ran out of wind. Again, post whatever you want. I’m here and remember the only stupid question is the one you didn’t ask.
stay safe and pray for peace
 
We sailed, actually as far south as Grenada and north as the Spanish virgens. As well is the trip from Bermuda to Yost Van Dyke where we’ve did customs for the BVI. That last one’s about 940 miles. The trip to Bermuda which I did with my son Dave, and a friend. Dave was about 650 miles through tropical storm Lindsay.
I have sailed my socks off
 
Thank you to all here. I am doing one more work trip on her tomorrow, Saturday, then will go back and put it in the water on the 5th July for the first time. I struggled for a bit trying to find dockage ( another new word for me...) But the original owner I bought her from is leasing me her private dock, so all the planets aligned for me there! I'll spend a few days on her learning everything and see how it goes. Lake St Clair isn't very deep and I don't have a working depth sounder yet so will have to rely heavily on Inavx for chart depths. There is a Raymarine depth system installed but not wired up yet.
 
The fuel gage on my 383 was very accurate. 5 gallons for each 1/8 th of tank. Never put more than 35 gallons in so v at botton if there didn't matter. I watched it while crew filled tank. When full, I yelled stop and bingo no over fill, and amount taken was what I expected. Bigest fill up was in Block Island after a 200 mile power run from Cape May. Not sure I could read your fuel gage, as it seems to have diesel in it, although the diesel I used was pink (off road non taxed)
 
Just an aside from the thread. I thought Dick Kilroy would enjoy these photos. They were taken in Hadley Harbor in July 2009.

Jim Cleary
 

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Yeah, the guy I told you about on the phone bottle Morgan 38 by the name of the island girl. It’s somewhere there on the hard near your legs like Saint Clair.
 
Mitchell
Hadley Harbor is on the Northeastern end of Naushon Island in the Elizabeth chain of islands, Just below Cape Cod and opening onto the Woods Hole passage. All the Islands in the chain, except Cuttyhunk Island, are owned by the Forbes family. Hadley Harbor is filled with moorings that are placed and owned by the Forbes and are available on a first come basis for free. It is only one of very many beautiful little keyhole coves available for Long Island Sound and New England sailors to enjoy.

Jim
 
So it seems I don't HAVE a water heater. Looking under the port storage locker and to port of the galley sink, there is a raised panel where it would have been mounted, also some spare wires there with wire nuts to terminate the bare ends. Some unused plumbing tube ends as well. Sort of ironic; the water heater breaker has tape over it so the "heater" would not be powered up empty, because of that I assumed there was a working heater in place. So, what was the original heater wattage and water volume, and, what size do you guys recommend to buy?
 
I replaced the original hulk of rusting leaking mess with an Isotemp 30l, 8 gallon.

Isotemp SPA 30L 115V Marine Water Heater w/Heat Exchanger & Mix Valve

www.suremarineservice.com www.suremarineservice.com

I've been really pleased. It's about a year and a half since, I think. And works really well. Heats on 110 in about 15 minutes from switching on, keeps hot for hours after switching off. Also, engine water heats very quickly! And hot.
I'd done a ton of research prior to buying.
There are many out there that will fit though and I'm sure they work well.
I can't remember the original manufacturer, but they are long gone. It really didn't resemble anything "marine" to me.
 
I believe the original was a Raritan 6 gallon. At least that is what Eliana had when i got her, and I replaced with the same. It looks like a miniature home unit, but isn't. Raritan is probably the most expensive Water heater you can buy, but is really well insulated. It will keep water hot enough for a hot shower for 24 hrs.

It is 1500W on AC, and also has a loop to the engine. Either will heat in about 15 minutes.

There are a few other companies that make much cheaper water heaters, Isotherm is probably the most popular.
 
I'm not sure if Sonata's was original or not when I pulled it. Still functional, but leaked like crazy. I was trying to disconnect the hoses and pulled the fitting right out. I think it was called something like "American Home".
 
I concur with Mitchell. We replaced the original water heater with an Isotemp unit many years ago. Work fine, no complaints. We do not use the 110V hookup and run it off an Espar diesel Hydronic heater. Wonderful.

Jim
 
I bought an AquaH 500 watt 6 gallon model today. I looked at the rectangular ones and, without knowing the actual fore and aft space I had to work with, those seemed to be too wide to fit. I would like more than 500 watts I suppose, but I think this will be fine. I have a 1500 watt inverter so I'll see how those two items interact. Now to just find the engine hoses and figure out how to plumb it, I didn't see them in the space there where they should come up through the floor.
 
So we put the Morgan in the water today. All went well. The Perkins started and ran perfectly, zero water leaks past my new shaft packing. Backed it out of the slip and moved one space down and tied her up. And now the work carries on.... Installed the new water heater mostly, need more fittings etc. But my one issue now is the toilet, sorry, head. I think it's an original. The seacocks were open, and I pumped the handle a dozen times. It basically filled itself with red antifreeze. So i assume this is coming from the holding tank? It has a small chrome knob below it which I think is a valve to shut the sea water off to it. It was open, but I tried closing it a d no difference. Does it need seals, is it dead, do I have a tap closed?? No idea, but it's not good...
 
Congratulations on splashing.

A picture of the head might help. I doubt the antifreeze is from the holding tank. That is a long run and down into the keel. Antifreeze is often used in fresh water systems when put into storage. Is it possible there is some in the fresh water tank? From the factory, the head takes in sea-water, but sometimes people change it to fresh water to cut down on the smell and because sea-water will scale and clog pipes. Or, maybe there was some antifreeze in the pipes that just emptied into the head when you flushed.

Most heads will have a valve for filling and emptying. Fill it with water, do your business, then empty. Most heads also need to be rebuilt periodically. So, it isn't unexpected to maybe need a pump rebuild and seal kit for it.
 
It's a Raritan, manual flush. No idea of the model. Looking into the sink cabinet, the smaller hose going to the pump comes from a seacock on the hull. I got worried that it would overflow and try to sink the boat, so I shut that one off after my efforts to make it flush. So I have no idea where the antifreeze came from. Biggest problem is that no amount of pumping the handle will empty it. Is it possible that the holding tank is full and coming back into the toilet? It does need a rebuild I'm sure, at least, it leaks water out of the upper shaft seal on the pump.
 
Raritan has complete rebuild kits. Yours is probably a PH I or PH II. Their web site can probably help identify it. Might be better and easier to get a new one. Check where the water is coming from. If it is, as it should be, a through hull in the head cabinet, then it is not anti freeze. Do you have a real seacock or a gate valve? Gate valve might be rusting if someone used a steel one? There is a joker valve on the toilet outlet that is supposed to prevent water from backing up into toilet. Yours is probably shot. If someone had the boat on the hard, for a long time, they might have put anti-freeze in the holding tank (wrong kind if it is red--should be blue or pink, I believe), but it is hard to understand how the water-antifreeze makes it from the keel tank to the toilet, a four foot rise. Sanitation is the worst part of any cruising boat, which is why some use composting heads.
 
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Make sure the valve is set to "Dry". And photos might help here. Pictures of the head, and the plumbing as well. Take a picture though the hamper opening in the counter of the plumbing.
Mitchell
 
Here is how to identify your head. Raritan sells rebuild kits, so start there. It will not pump if the joker valve needs replacement, or if various other seals are shot.
It is not possible for the water to be coming all the way from the holding tank. If the plumbing is factory, the discharge hose from the head rises up and connects to a gate valve and an anti-siphon vent accessible by removing the trash can (supposed to be a laundry hamper). Probably a gallon would fit in that pipe, and since it is higher than the head it would drain back down into it. Someone probably flushed a bunch of antifreeze before storage and that is why it is there.
You probably will also need to replace the gate-valve and plumbing in the cabinet. The gate valve selects between flushing to the holding tank or overboard, and since it was brass or steel not bronze, is surely frozen. In my case, everything was so frozen and seized nothing was reusable.
 
You have a number of options, depending on how much you are willing to spend,and how much work you want to do. replace the head. Replace the pump. rebuild the pump. You might want to replace the pump the and also rebuild the old one when you might have more time. that way you have a spare. Also replace the check valve. You should consider replaceing all of the sanitation hose, as it degades over time and becomes smelly. On my 383 the hose between the the head compartment and the holding tank was actully a pvc pipe that was seperated under the dinnet seat. Raritan are good people, call them , and watch their videos.
 
Thank you for all the advice. I will get pics tomorrow. Instinct tells me to get a rebuild kit for now. I did remove the chrome knob and ball under it, that is the water inlet I believe, it had a bunch of debris under it once I managed to get the ball out. Sort of helped. The plunger is leaking out the top, so that needs a seal at least. I also removed the ball valve under the arm pivot, but it looked like it should be sealing. I have a feeling the main plunger piston seal (?) Is bypassing and leaking, so it never really pumps. The plumbing under the sink all looks original, and yes, I can't turn the seacocks in there, except for the water inlet, that one turns ok.
Worst job for the day was hooking up the engine coolant hoses to the new water heater. What a mess. And it doesn't have typical green prestone antifreeze, some sort of oily pink crap. Lots of paper towels needed to clean the stuff out of the cabinet afterwards. Can't get the hot water to prime up easily, but the cold water seems to flow ok. Not really in the bathroom sink though, just air mostly there. Sigh.....
 
Here's a pic of the Raritan, head. I will see if I can find a parts kit at a marina store here somewhere.
 

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That is the Raritan PH. The repair kit part number is PHRK.
It looks like they have now combined the repair kits for several heads into one universal kit:

Raritan PHRKIIU | Fisheries Supply

Save More on Your Raritan #PHRKIIU RAR PHRKIIU UNIVERSAL PHII & PH REPAIR KIT at Fisheries Supply. Excellent Customer Service, Ready to Ship. Marine Supplies Since 1928!
www.fisheriessupply.com www.fisheriessupply.com
 
I purchased a 1980 Morgan 382 not quite a year ago and I am tracking your questions and really appreciating the answers. Very helpful. Since I am new to all this the best advice I can give is to spend a week onboard at the dock disconnected from everything like you are cruising. We have been on ours for the past week and I have learned more about this boat in a week than I have this past year.
 
Thanks. This 382 isn't ready to stay on still but getting closer. I ordered the toilet parts today, will have them Friday. The new water heater is in, but I can't get it to bleed for some reason. The cold water flows, but through the heater, I just get air out of the hot tap in the galley. All the water lines were a mess, bypassed etc, and I still have an open line that runs forward somewhere, I think it's the hot line to the bathroom sink. But I did get the sails on it today, I think the Genoa is a 150 percent.
 
Yes, it must be, but you would think it would spray water out that line, and it doesn't. I'll lie on the galley floor some more today and study it all again and see why.

Dave.
 
Dave

Did you give the hot water heater time to fill the 6 or 7 gallon tank before it could pump water. Until the tank is filled, you'll only get air from the faucet.

Jim
 
As Jim says. On most WH the cold inlet is on the bottom, and the hot outlet from the top. You need to fill the tank before any water comes out. Also, do not turn on power before it is full. The heating element will burn out in only a few seconds with no water in the tank.
 
The simplest things sometimes..... The hose coming from the pump went uphill then down again, and had an airlock in it. Strange how the cold flowed yet the hot tank never filled or flowed. That hose had been taped up like that for years, I cut it and leveled it out and it all works now. Waiting for the heater to warm it up now. So happy.
 
That pump might need replacement. It should be self priming (won't airlock) and should be able to deal with several feet of lift. Glad you now have hot water!

Any grey plastic hose should be replaced at some point, as it will crack and break. Until you do that, be sure that you turn off the water pump when you leave the boat. And be very careful of the plastic pipe run from the through hull valve in the head, to the foot pump in the galley. That entire hose is under the waterline, and any crack or break will sink the boat. So, until that is replaced, keep the through hull closed when not being used.
 
The foot pump has also been disconnected, I will look at the line to that, it has a bypass connector in it, thanks. I still need to get another tee and hook up the open line, I think that is the cold water to the bathroom, head, as only the hot water runs there now. Another thing, there is a pump that runs when I switch on the shower drain. I thought it was the pump that is in the middle of the bathroom sink cabinet, but that one, whatever it is, is not even wired up. So there is yet another pump I have not found yet.
 
The original galley faucet has 6" centerset, and seems to be an oddball size. Mine is leaking from the swivel, and just needs to be replaced. Does anyone have an idea for a replacement that would work without cutting or hacking the original galley sink?
 
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