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Need help buying a 1980 Morgan 382

John, I'll add my 2 cents. Don't look at whether you are getting a sharp finanical deal. That can prove to be penny wise and dollar foolish. You are going to buy a boat that you will own for a very long time (hopefully). Paying a few bucks more or less amortized over the years of ownership is not going to matter. What will matter is how much you are enjoying your boat. When it comes right down to the bottom line the price a boat goes for is the price the owner is willing to sell it for combined with the price you are willing to pay for a boat that you like more than any of the other ones you saw.
Don't be a fool, make an offer and see if you can buy the boat you want for a bit less, but buy the boat you want and enjoy it.
Just a foot note on this topic. Southerly is not for sale, however I have twice been offered 65K for her during the last four years. the offers were not from brokers. They came from friends of friends who were looking for a turn key boat of our vintage.
What ever you do, remember this is not a financial investment. It's an investment in your enjoyment.
My 2 cents,
Larry
 
Thanks. I think we will attempt to make a decision. We already made an offer but it was turned down. There is another boat we are looking at as a back up. Thanks for your help.
 
Thanks Larry. That really helps a lot. I am of the same thinking about enjoying what I get more than the price I paid... within reason of course.
Tremendous site. Having a great place to go and ask questions from other owners is really very helpful. And most seem to be so polite and practice good etiquette on the web as well.
 
Good luck on your search! The price you pay will only be a down payment in the ownership of any boat.
Jim
 
What does it cost to install some sort of heat on a 382?
What are the options? We intend on cruising from Maine to the Keys of Florida
 
Hi John, I'm interested in the diesel fuel heaters mounted on the salon/head wall. It draws right from your ships fuel tank. Any thoughts anyone. Geoff
 
Jim Ball is absolutely correct. The price of the boat is just the down payment. I have owned my CM 38 for 30 years and the price I paid for the boat then was merely a down payment. What I spent yearly on upgrades, improvements, repairs and the like was directly related to the enjoyment of my boat. I race the hell out of her, cruise the poop out of her and she just keeps giving back in pleasure, pride and fun. I have a crew that has been with me for well over 12 years, and my wife is a great partner for enjoying the cruising life after the big races are over. Even after 30 years we still get compliments on the look of the boat as a classic sailing yacht. Buy what you like and realize that you may well spend much more making the boat into one that you are proud of a have fun sailing. Jim Hudnut/Stella Maris/ CM38
 
You have to love her or stop and sell her! If you don't spend $$$'s, the love will fade! The $$$'s can be in up-keep or additions, but the $$$'s flow like the tide!

It is not wise to keep track of the $$$'s I have learned. It is better to just sail and enjoy the experience; life is short!
Jim
 
Thanks to all those who helped with information.
We felt the Morgan was the right choice for us.
We bought it. We like the boat.
The owner has taken meticulous care of her.
No hull blisters, very dry boat, new sails, the owners really loved her as we do already.
Our plans is are to outfit and add the necessary additions to sail her south from New England to the Keys next year.
Now, I will be asking about Jim's woodworking skills on that Pilot berth. Really liked that.
 
Congrats John and welcome to the family <img src="http://morgan38.org/discus/clipart/happy.gif" alt=":)" border="0">

Larry
S/V Ridiculous
 
John, welcome to the group. I'm sure your love for your boat will increase as you see how she takes care of you.
Enjoy.
Larry
 
Been getting the boat ready for launch.
Just wondered if the "through hulls" re-bedding procedure was something one can do themselves easily or should we have it done by the yard/professional?
 
My opinion is "Write the Check", unless you have several strong and enthusiastic friends. There are several special tools needed (especially on the bigger T/O's) and big 'ole nasty hoses to wrestle with. Not much manuevering room in some areas. Yeah, write the check, let the pros do it.
Dave
 
Thanks
Think that's what I'll do this time around. Preparing to launch in two weeks. I have to move the boat 3 hours away. Early here sometimes in New England. The previous owner had a list of things to do. Through hulls were not included.
Now if I can just figure out how to get the dodger covers etc and the electronics back on...
 
The only through hull that appears to be loose is the Galley Drain Through hull. The other through hulls like the bathroom sink, shower drain etc. seem snug.
Since the galley through hull is easy to get at what about just loosing the nut with a spanner wrench pushing out the through hull, clean with putty knife and re-bed with re-bedding compound? I have never done it before but I would like to try. What's the worst that could happen... sink the boat<img src="http://morgan38.org/discus/clipart/happy.gif" alt=":)" border="0">
 
What is snug? The question is, do they function and sop the inflow of sea water? Are they gate valves? If so, they should be changed. These are extremely important parts of ANY BOAT! A bad one can sink a boat!
Jim
 
Stupid question but what is a gate valve? The valves inside the boat to the through hulls
The owner said there was not a problem last year with any leaks. But the surveyor took a tool and jerk around the through hull to the galley sink drain and loosened it. He then stated it should be re-bedded.
17009.jpg

valve
 
Do not put your boat in the water with a "loose" through hull. The throughhulls themselves can deteriorate over time, so just tightening the bolts holding it in could mask bigger problems. Take the thing out and look at it or replace it. Gate valves are valves that work sort of like an outside hose faucet. you turn the valve handle several times to open or close. Seacocks are typically 90 degree turn affairs. Much safer. Gate valves also deteriorate.
 
I do not see a valve in the picture. A gate valve has a round handle that closes like a faucet. A ball valve closes with a quarter and is made of brass, stainless, or a plastic material. There are numerous valves on your boat and you should know where every one is located.
Jim
 
Every through hull should have a valve to protect the vessel. As Terry said, do not put your boat in the water until this is rectified!

Did this boat get surveyed prior to purchase?

Jim
 
Thanks Terry and Jim
Will do. And yes the boat was surveyed prior to purchase in November. Boat was said to be in excellent shape. The only thing he came up with was that this through hull was loose.
Thanks for the description clarification. I want that Racor duel fuel system too that you have Jim! Would like a diagram if possible.
 
Also make sure that each seacock is really a seacock, which is defined by the American Boat and Yacht Council as 'a type of valve 'operated by a lever-type handle'[that moves] through a 90-degree arc, giving a clear indication of whether it is open or shut.' If you find a multiturn (ball) valve installed on a through-hull connection, replace it with a proper seacock. A seacock should be attached directly to the through-hull fitting. If a pipe or tube is installed between the through-hull and the seacock, it creates a possible failure point that is unprotected by the seacock.
 
<a href="http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/replacing_thruhulls" target="_top">http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/replacing_thruhulls</a>

<a href="http://www.go2marine.com/category.do?no=13218" target="_top">http://www.go2marine.com/category.do?no=13218</a>

Jim
 
What do you use for your through hulls Jim?
Great article by the way. Really appreciate your help. Pictures were perfect too,
Here in Vermont it can be a little dicey finding qualified people to do work on your boat.
 
As shown in the second picture on the first website, 90 degree turn which replaced all gate valves in the boat.
jim
 
you must know where every seacock is located on your boat and you must cycle and inspect them on a very regular basis.you should also have a wood plug for every size in case of emergency.
i know this is obvious to most but i thought i would throw it in anyway.
 
Where does one come by wood plugs for the Morgan?
Thanks again for the swell advice. Mine turn 90 degrees but I will have to see if they are the type described in that article. I will replace all of them if I need to.
Also another question ( I am sure I will be having lots of them) The macerator was disconnected. It is a requirement on Lake Champlain. The owner indicated that one does not want to accidently turn it on or else it would dump into the bilge! He kept the key elsewhere to avoid that. But what is a better solution? We will be wanting to reconnect most likely when we head south this fall on the ICW.
 
<a href="http://www.landfallnavigation.com/-s5230.html" target="_top">http://www.landfallnavigation.com/-s5230.html</a>
 
John,
Try Defender Marine for a selection:
pt# 50501 6 qty for $9.95. Secure the proper size plug near each thru hull.

How many and what sizes do you have for bilge pumps, John?

Dave
 
John -

About 3 years ago, I went through what you went through, and I brought a Morgan 382 back from the boat graveyard. So far, I've replaced the plumbing (including shore supply), re-wired the electrical an installed a new distribution panel, replaced the through hull gate valves with proper ball valves attached directly to the through hull, installed GPS, autopilot, new VHF, re-conditioned the wheel pedestal, replaced the steaming/deck light, re-wired the AC power supply, replaced the original battery charger with a "smart" one, installed some new deck hardware, replaced the anchor doors, companionway step, aft lazarette cover, put in a new alternator, re-configured the bilge wiring and pumping system, as you can see, there's always something to do for me, since the previous owner (original) used the boat lightly dockside for the last 25 years. 90% of the work I did myself, but gave over some of the work to the pros.
I now know the boat inside and out, and would be happy to share my knowledge with you - and hopefully, you'll avoid some mistakes I made!
If you want to talk about any questions you have, I'd be happy to chat with you. Home is (914) 921-9320, cell is (914) 417-5481.
 
Thanks Matt
I will give you a call. As Jim (and I think Dave) suggested I checked out the through hulls yesterday. Sure enough they are of the old type that came with the boat. I think they are called "mushroom head through hulls". One is loose.
I am looking for someone locally who knows what they are doing so I can get them replaced and fitted properly. I talked to 2 different repair places and both said that 90% of the boats have that type of fitting and they are fine.
So, you can see what I am up against here in Vermont. I spoke with my cousin at dinner last night. He is near 80 and confirmed what has been said here that the type of through hulls Jim spoke of or referred to in the article are the ones you want. I sure could use some help. I like the expertise I find here in this forum.
I am not a chat room/forum kind of guy but this Morgan 38 forum really is a good group of people.
The boat has to be moved next week of the 19th.
What fun we are having.
 
John:

Reading the entire string from your first post in April I would like to muddy the waters a little further with one point of clarification. There is nothing wrong with mushroom head thru hull fittings. As you have seen they are just a shaped piece of pipe that fits into a recess in the hull on one end with a standard pipe thread on the other end. It sounds like the galley sink one needs to be re-bedded and tightened. It is not a big or difficult job, but you may want to have someone do the first one and observe for your own piece of mind. The other issue that got mixed into the conversation was that these boats originally came with a non rising wheel, non rising stem, bronze gate valve threaded onto the mushroom head thru hull fitting. If you still have these valves (which I seriously doubt) then you should replace them with bronze or stainless steel ball vales. I replaced these valves the first year after I purchased the boat in 1980 with stainless steel ball valves and they are still in use.

Frank
 
I am having 4 through hulls and seacocks replaced and re-bedded with Graco fittings. After looking at the head plumbing through hulls and seacocks carefully they looked corroded. Even if they were not inside I figured I don't want to take a chance so I am getting it done now before the boat goes back into the water. Really wanted to do it myself but I didn't have the time right now.
Thanks for the advice everyone. Very glad I asked and that I looked more carefully.
 
Was the engine intake seacock and strainer okay?

Another area to check is the large port to stbd. drain tube. This should be caulked while the boat is on the hard. There is nothing worse than having this leak either motoring or sailing!
Jim
 
I have decided it would better if I take and post pictures in the future to accompany my questions.
It is easier than trying describe and explain sometimes.

Certainly helped me to see the pictures that have been posted here or linked to.
 
One observation, every hose attached to a seacock should have TWO SS hose clamps and these should checked often for signs of corrision.

In addition, I have had the gray plastic hose fittings crack and leak. This can be very troublesome in the pressure water system.
 
Jim
That looks and sounds like a job I can do. Thanks!
Now if I can just use my magic shrinking pills to make me 2 feet tall to get in there...
 
I replaced most of the grey tubing (polybutylene, or PB) with Pex last year, using Sea Tech fittings for the joints. Color me converted to Sea Tech - they have a number of different styles (pex to barbed, pex to pump inlet, pex to male garden hose, pex to pex, pex to female garden hose, etc). It's expensive, but VERY easy to work with. Pex is also somewhat stiff, and so won't kink like hose. Additionally, it has some give to it, so if there's some water left over during winter, it won't get destroyed like the PB.
I kept all the PB that was acting as a vent for the water tanks and fuel tank, and kept the PB that came out of the water tanks and that went into the shower head.

Matt
 
Here is what I had in the way of thru-hulls, etc.
Does anyone know on the last image, taken from the exterior, what that plastic is? There was a couple of holes in it as you can see.

17024.jpg


17025.jpg


17026.jpg

3 thru hulls


17027.jpg


17028.jpg
 
Is this plastic ring normal to your knowledge?
What should be done about those holes?
What would the best thing to do?... get this out somehow and replace it?
 
If it was me, I would grind this thing out and replace it with a true through hull made of brass. Just an opinion but why worry and be sorry you didn't do it when you had the opportunity.
Jim
 
ONe final note: I think Jim means bronze. It is recommended that one doesn't use brass fittings on any seawater lines--nipples, through hulls, seacocks, etc. It will pretty quickly corrode. Use marelon (reinforced fiberglass) or true bronze.
 
Almost done. Thru-hulls and seacocks have been replaced with bronze fittings. Wash, Wax and polish this week. Then launch...
 
Wild Oats is set to launch next week.
She's sure a "purty" boat alright!
Waxed and polished everywhere. New bottom paint, new thru-hulls and seacocks. Looks new to us.

Next on the list is doing some electronics, sound proofing, heating/airconditioning, refrigerator, and maybe some engine work... all stuff which I know little or nothing about.

Thanks Jim, Matt, Dave and Terry (and anyone else I left out) for the help during the winter season of getting WIld Oats ready. Hope you guys can make a visit to this part of the world sometime.
I am sure there will be more to do as always but so far the majority is done... other than what I mentioned.
Will send some photos of the launch, etc. if possible. It may be old stuff to some but exciting to new owners. I know we are.
 
Well it was 30 degrees out yesterday with 6 inches of snow! The yard said "it's going in!" We slipped around on the decks, could not start the engine because there was a breaker switch inside the engine compartment no one knew about. I found it and it started right up.
I have to say with the snow blizzard coming down and a quick spin on the lake it was exhilarating anyway.
My wife loved it. As I commented "great day for sailing... eh!?
As Don Casey said "you gotta love the boat."
Well, when we were leaving, we took our last look at her... we still had the "pitter-patter" We love the boat!
I had to create a quick blog location to post a couple of videos to. There are some good reasons I did not use YouTube.
These are not terribly informative or entertaining for that matter but it was snowing and 30 degrees.
Not having to go out in weather like they do on "Deadliest Catch"... I have a new found appreciation.
The weather man promises that it will be 80 Thursday or Friday!

You can see the launch here:
http://www.hulingmedia.blogspot.com/
 
I had the work done by someone else but it was through the trash bin area and the side door under the head sink
 
I was reminiscing about when we bought our boat. Thanks to all of those that encouraged and gave good advice. We love the boat 4 years later. And yes we turn around and look at her before we leave every time!
 
Best money we ever spent! One spends lots of money in life and has nothing to show for it. We already have great memories from our many sails.
Can't ever replace that! Can't be taken away.
We could of purchased nearly any boat...we just fell got this one.
 
John,

Surely not $50000. If we had not had to replace the engine, hull paint was going to be $175/foot or just south of $7000.

Tim
 
need a new boom ASAP...like this week!!! broke our boom today in a race...need a new boom or fix this one. broke at bale where preventer attaches...any ideas. Could get a welder to insert a sleeve and fix
 
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