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Hurth Transmission

S

svmandalay@aol.com

Neil Geyer
11/11/2001
I am in Clearwater, FL at the Municipal Marina with my 1981 Morgan 382.

My Hurth transmission has failed again and I plan to send it back for repairs again and save it for a spare

In the meantime, does anyone know where I can purchase a new one in the Clearwater Area.

Thanks,
Neil Geyer, S/V Mandalay
 
My Hurth failed last summer. ONe of the main running bearings went out. I had been told they were good gears, and I think mine failed because I let it run too low on oil. What is the problem with yours, if I may ask? By the way, I got a rebuilt gear, rather than repairing mine. I have a 1979 boat and I was told the gear is obsolete and the parts are hard or expensive to come by. thanks for any info you can share.
 
My transmission reached a point where my it would not turn the prop shaft in forward gear.

I removed my transmission in June, 2001 & took it to ZF Marine Gulf Coast for overhaul. They replaced seals & friction discs, however it is now slipping again in fwd gear.
 
My Hurth tranny also quit. It is not properly engaging in forward. It is slipping and not making that clunking sound I was used to. I see that others have had similar problems. I assume it is something to do with worn friction discs. (Ah, maybe that's why we're not supposed to leave it in forward when sailing...). I see that Neil Geyer had that repair done. How much did it cost? The ZF dealer in Lauderdale (US HQ for ZF) told me not to bother because repair was more than replacement on these old trannies. A new one goes for $1275. Ouch!!! Has anybody worked on it themselves? It seems like special tools are required. Anybody know anyone with the special tools? (Hurth HBW-10). Thanks ahead for any help.

Oscar
"Calypso" M-382 #161
 
Oscar, I had my hurth 150 repaired last summer. The repair shop replaced a reverse friction disk and the shifting fork. It was not going onto reverse half of the time. Cost $900 but it has been working great since the repair.

Steven Wilburn
Sparrow 383-34
 
Bit the bullet and purchased new tranny. It just doesn't seem worth it paying that kind of money for a repair with a 2-month waranty. The new box is costing me $1460 (+tax) from Tradewinds in Miami. It comes with a 2-year warranty. I picked the ZF-12M to replace the old Hurth HBW-10. It was a toss-up between that and the ZF-15M. The 15M has the exact ratios as the HBW-10 (1.88) while the 12M has 2.14. That means more HP to the prop, but slower prop. I am eventually going with a folding prop and figure I can correct any problems, if I sense any, when I set the pitch on it.

The joys of boat ownership!!! At least it was a simple matter removing the old box (1/2 hour).

Oscar
 
I am away from Ridiculous and am doing some research on props. The prop I had on her was either a r14 16 or an r16 14. In the process of getting the proper size calculated I need to know what the gear ratio is for the transmission. As far as I can tell I have the original configuration for the early CM38 (1970) which has the 4-107. Does anyone know off hand which model Hurth they came with? Is it the HBW-10 listed above? Also, what diameter/pitch prop do you have and are you satisfied?
 
Larry,

i have cm38 #27. a 16" dia wheel would not fit due to interference w/ the lower edge of the aperature. i belive the old wheel was stamped as a 15".

the trans ratio is very nearly 2:1

i too am away from the boat right now

from memory, the ratio is 2.01:1 but as i said. 2:1 is very close.

i modified my boat to swing the 16" wheel that i bought. i believe it is 14" pitch and i am happy with the proformance. i especially like the authority when grounded.

if was at the boat i could give more info , but it was hit by lightining days before we were suposed to leave.

hope this helps

bill buebel
 
Thanks Bill, that is the confirmation I was looking for. The propeller guys gave RH 16x14 to be the suggested size and I believe that is what I took off. I got a prop from another Morgan owner with the 4-108 and didn't realize until I installed it that it was smaller. I have been suffering with it on ever since. (My original had a crack in it and a chunk broken off the edge of one of the blades.)

I'm looking forward to getting power back. Approaching docks is a very slow activity for me <img src="http://morgan38.org/discus/clipart/happy.gif" alt=":)" border="0"> But then the current prop was basically free and it works so I shouldn't complain. It's actually kind of nice to know if the wind will pick up I can actually get to my destination faster than that loud monster under the cockpit <img src="http://morgan38.org/discus/clipart/happy.gif" alt=":)" border="0">

CapnBrown
S/V Ridiculous
 
Maybe you guys missed my post about the squealing sound that came from my transmission or at least under the pedestal area

http://morgan38.org/cgi-bin/discus/show.cgi?1/85

Would appreciate any other comments or advice regarding any possibilities that anyone else can think of, short of buying anew transmission. I am in an isolated area far from qualified repair shops
 
John I've been watching the thread "hurth transmission squealing noise" and seeing responses. I don't know that I'd have anything to add other than an experience in a different boat where the shaft was out of alignment and the squealing sound was clearly audible under the cockpit floor. It was a nasty sound and continued until the alignment was fixed. Since yours was temporary I don't think it's the same problem unless like someone suggested you had a bag or some such on the prop for a few minutes causing it to scrape against the cutlass. Maybe check your motor mounts to make sure one isn't loose and under certain torque the motor shifts enough to cause such an alignment issue?

CapnBrown
S/V Ridiculous
 
Over several years there have been various threads concerning the Hurth transmissions. This thread on a squealing noise, boat speed at various engine RPM's, prop size and pitch as relates to RPM. I have never been anywhere around most of the comments when they refer to engine RPM and boat speed. Never really pursued it. Back in May, I was motoring from Roatan to Guanaja in the Bay Islands to clear out and head down to Panama. Motoring along, and engine noise level stayed pretty constant, but the boat started slowing down. Had a failure of a ( or one of the) clutches in the transmission. Managed to get down to La Ceiba, Honduras, and had it rebuilt there. My tag on the tranny said it is a HBW 150. but, the tag gives the forward gear ratio as 2.63 versus what most people on here say their forward ratio is 2:1. The approximate 2:1 ratio is what is given when Googling Hurth transmissions on the web. Anyone else have a HBW with this ratio. No wonder I have to crank the engine almost up to 2700 RPM to get up to the 6 knot range. I've checked both engine and shaft RPM with a laser tachometer, and the 2.63 ratio is right on

Bill
 
That's a good point. I have to go to 2200-2400 RPM to get 6 knots. It seems to like 1800RPM to run 5.5 knots

What RPMs do others run at in calm water to get to 6 knots
 
Larry
Does this sound like it may have caused the problem to you?

Overfilled the transmission with transmission fluid ATF.
By the way what type of transmission fluid do you guys use.
My Hurth Manual says to use "ATF Type A". The guys at the store said that's what it all is now unless it says specifically something else like Type F.
 
Bill - Hirth 150 in mine. 2700rpm around 6k. thats my cruising speed. A Perkins 108 is good to 4000 rpm, so the conventional wisdom is to run a diesel "hard/hot". 2700 is about right. I burn under a gal/hr there.
 
I do that when I'm in a hurry or have
strong headwinds. Normally I run at 2000-2200 rpm. With that engine rpm, my propeller shaft is only turning 830 rpm with my 2.63 ratio transmission. I'm somewhere around .7 to .8 gal. per hour at this speed.

I use Dexron II or III in my transmission. I didn't realize they still made a Ford ATF.

Bill
 
An RPM guage could be off by + or - 10%.
Cruising RPM is 70% to 80% of maximum RPM. In order to find out what your individule cruising RPM should be take your boat out of the slip or off the mooring. In open water open the throtle up all the way. Keep an eye on the engine temperture guage, it should stay at its normal position. Make note of your RPM at this time while you are at maximum throtle, with normal temperture. Depending upon your individule guage my guess is that you will read between 28000 and 33000 RPM. It doesn't matter which. Your cruising RPM is between 70% to 80% of your maximum RPM. Your speed through the water will depend on wind, and wave conditions and how smooth and clean your bottom is.
Larry
 
Larry,
that must be some 4108 you have, 33000?
2800_3300 sounds about right.just kidding about the typo.


I get 7 knts @ 2200 with a fairly clean bottom.
I picked up a slight vibration a few weeks ago. turned out to be a few strategically placed barnacles. a quick and cheap fix and now is smooth again.
rich
 
at 2400 I can get 6 knots maybe 6.5 even towing the dingy in relatively smooth water on the lake. Don't know if that is consistent with everyone else or not. I have a 3 blade feathering prop.
There is a pic of it in some of my earlier posts.
Seems like it might have just been an overfilled tranny.

Sure would like to hear what others are running at, RPM. props, boat speed under what conditions.
 
John, for what it's worth I cruise at 21 to 2300 rpm. If my bottom has just been cleaned and the sea and wind conditions are flat my speedo shows 6.2 to 6.4 knts. through the water. Under the same conditions if I push the rpm to maximum, a tad over 3000 rpm, my speedo records 7.6 knts. through the water. The speedo is reasonably accurate when checked against the GPS and taking into consideration the plus or minus for current. As the weeks pass and a light slime starts to attach it's self the speed goes down under the same weather conditions. In about three to four weeks I'm down to 5.9 to 6.0 knts. I sail western Long Island Sound to the Cape Cod area for the most part. I have a Perkins 4-108 and the original 3 blade 16 X 11 prop.
I hope this information helps you.
Larry
 
Thanks so very much Larry. Confirms what I was wondering for me. That's about what I do. I believe I have about the same setup. 4108 3 blade prop about the same size.
 
If i go over 2300 rpms and at well before 3000 I get a rumbling sound which I belive is cavitation in the aperture. I have the same 4108 engine and a 16x11 prop. Normally I run 2000 rpm's and due about 6kts.
 
John -

I usually cruise at 1800-2000 rpms, and hit about 6 knots - more if the bottom is freshly swept free of slime. I don't like to push it above that level, b/c I get a bluish cloud (burning oil) for a brief spell. Also, the more revs, the more diesel burned. At 1800 rpms, the engine can run for about 30-35 hours.
 
I took a break from real work on the boat and started going through all the documentation on the boat. I ran into the original owners manual that said the transmission ration was 1:2.56. My Hurth transmission says 1:1.95. That might explain why I hit 6 knots at 1800 RPM. The transmission is red not blue, so it probably has been replaced. Anyone know what their tranny ratio is? I will have another look to make sure I have all the numbers right.

Tim
 
The tag on my Hurth transmission reads 2.63 ratio in forward and 1.95 ratio in reverse. These check out right on when measuring the shaft rotation and engine rotation with a laser tachometer.

The tag says this is a HBW 150- 2,5R transmission.
 
Thanks Bill. I guess my only problem is that when the prop is dirty, covered with barnacles, my engine overheats above about 2200 RPM (4-108). When the prop is clean, we make over 6 knots with no problem.
 
My transmission has gone the way of so many others. Reluctently shifts into forward. After reading the posts I conclude it needs replacing. Unfortunately, the id tag is gone and I do not know the model number or gear ratio. The boat is a 1982 383 with the perking 4-108 engine.

1) Does anyone know the correct model and gear ratio? Attached photo of mine if that's any help
2) If you got a replacement, where from (contact info please) and how much did it cost. Also brand and model info.

3) Was replacement a drop in or were adjustments/re-engineering necessary?

Thanks

Bob


18513.jpg

Hurth Transmission...
 
Just a question, have you verified the problem is not due to the cable or connections? I suggest disconnecting the cable and manually shifting the trans.

Also, the hose clamps around the stern tube look bad and should be replaced. The motor mounts look compressed and should be checked. Just more work and $$$s.
Good luck!
Jim
 
Bob, I have a 1983 383 Perkins / hurth trans. I don't have my Morgan owners manual home, but I believe it was referred to as a hurth 150, ratio is 2.6 but don't hold me to that as I have CRS and could be way off.

What Jim said about removing the cable and manually going into gear is spot on.

Definitely take Jim's advice on the stuffing box clamps. In fact, if it comes down to a trans removal you might want to renew the hose and packing if you're out of the water. Soak that baby in vinegar and it'll look like new.

Here's a link to a replacement trans at
TAD (trans atlantic diesel)that I think might work. Speak to Sherry there, she'll know what fits or can rebuild yours. They keep the Perkins 4-108 fires burning. Good folks.

http://www.tadiesels.com/transmissions/ZF_Hurth/ZF-15M.htm

Dave
 
Looks identical to mine... A Hurth 10, I believe, with a fwd gear of something like 2.07:1 and a rvrs gear of 1.65:1, if memory serves. No longer made, but the "new" model is a drop in. I have some information on my work PC, but won't be back there until Monday.
 
I replaced mine a few years back. No longer called Hurth, I think. Now it has a ZF gear. On my old Hurth, the "tag" was on the far side of the gear box, machine printed onto the box, as I recall. If you don't get an answer soon, I will be down to my boat in a few days and can check the number of the new gear box.
 
Oh, by the way: this is not a hard job, alhtough the lift in and out is a little awkward. Even with my old back, I got it done. While you have the gear box off, inspect and perhaps replace the flexible drive unit--a big flat disk with some springs on it. They get old and the springs break--then you can't turn your gear box.
 
Wow, you guys are good.

The hose clamps and motor mounts are (disappointingly) only two years old but do need looking after.

I did disconnect the shift cable and move the control manually. Same result. Notably, the cable is not rigged in accordance with Hurth recommendations of perpendicular when at neutral setting. But, does not seem to be the culprit in this case.

We're pulling the trans tomorrow and will be able to measure the gear ratios and box dimensions to cross check against the model 10 and/or 150 for size and ratio.

Thanks for the Atlantic Diesel connection. Will give them a call and see what they can offer as well.

The gear box works great after it finally shifts (10 to 20 second delay) no squeak, grind, or squeal, just smooth power. Sadly, there's no telling when it will pack up forever. But it's a dead certainty that it will pick the worst possible time to do it.

Further specifics about drop in replacements will be gratefully accepted.
 
When you do replace it, you need to re-align the tranny to the shaft. And I was warned against trying to re-condition the tranny myself.
 
My trans seems to drop reverse. I put new cables on it , Same problem !Its a Hurth all right , I ordered a manual . Cleveland engine repair says its not a big deal. He is in Tarpon and has worked on my Sabre for years..
Since the Morgan 384 is new to me 3rd owner
I'm learning. so far Wind rose has been a hand full ! lee/ Tarpon
 
Bob,if you decide to replace the trans, make sure you take a look at the power ratings and 3 different duty cycles. I'm no engineer and know only enough to be dangerous!

As I recall, Matt's Hurth 10 is a bit undersized. A 15 (or 150) leaves a bit more of safety margin in its ability to absorb engine torque so it should last longer. "You pays your money, you takes your choice."

The one pictured at TAD has a heat exchanger for cooling water which will add to lifespan and perhaps allow a less expensive one to suffice. Seek advice from an expert. If your tranny is toast you should renew the flywheel damper as a matter of course (as was already mentioned).

Its not all that much fun to pull the trans, so it makes sense to do everything at once, including the packing hose or dripless if you care to go that way. I could not renew the packing hose w/o removing the trans due to space limitations. My next boat will have better engine access!

Good luck / Dave
 
Yes i agree the Hurth 10 is just to small to do the job , mine dyed too ! 1983 M 384 ! So a size up a Hurth 15( ZF-12)
There is a guy in Largo who does marine transmissions Tom 727-545-2700
And a guy in Palmetto Allen Fowler 941-722-8475 does Hurth trans parts etc..
Hope this helps lee/ Windrose M-384
 
The tranny can be damaged by an out-of- alignment shaft. If you replace what you have, do yourself a favor and have the shaft professionally aligned.
 
My hurth Tranny came out today, was taken apart and Cleavland s repair said it looked ok.
But you guys all have been thru this , i ordered a new one from Alantic in GA will be here in 4 days..
Lucky me ! Lee nicholas M-384/ WindRose
Tarpon springs ,WindRose}popjpeg{18519
see the new picture
 
Once the picture is sized as you would to attach to an email, simply "Upload Attachment" from the Action section below.

So if I understand, the transmission you removed is okay?
 
First, thank you to all who offered information and recommendations on resolving my failed transmission.

I have a new transmission. It came from Trans Atlantic Diesel in Virginia.

Finding a dimensional drop in replacement took precedence over all issues of horsepower and gear ratios. I did not want to replace prop shafts, relocate the engine or any other re-engineering activities.

The replacement is (should anyone else need such a thing):
ZF 12M (with oil cooler)
Part Number: 330500200
Ratios: A=2.14 B=1.95

Removal was just as straight forward as everyone has said, except for removing the reluctant allan head bolts attaching the thrust plate. All were stuck hard, but three days of PB Blaster soaking did the trick.

Greg Runkel of Runkel Diesel Marine, Bradenton Florida, 941.751.2886 did the research and installation.
Did a great job; anticipated and headed off all sorts of potential problems.
He also figured out the proper gear ratios and box dimensions. The label was missing from the old box (suspected to be a ZF 10 no oil cooler). Therefore, Greg had to calculate the old ratio by turning the input shaft and counting output shaft revolutions (both directions).

No way I was spending this kind of money without high quality professional help.

The new box fit perfectly. Even shaft alignment was unchanged (and proper).
It works great.

Been living with unpredictable shifting for years. Nice to know the boat will do what I tell it in the future. Lots of dollars but may save crashing into something expensive or being stranded.

Photo Attached


18522.jpg
 
i simply do not understand how to re size a picture in order for me to attach it to a email so you guys can see it . I have a apple Lee
 
Bob:

Transmission looks good. Good to know the replacement ZF model. Looks like the plate that bolts up to the flywheel housing is old and reconditioned, given the appearance of corrosion on the flange. I guess everything aft of that is new.

Is the transmission oil cooler piped to the engine oil cooler on the engine's starboard side (behind the alternator)? Ours has two circuits - one is used for the engine oil with raw water pumped thru the shell, the other circuit is un-used.
-Alan
 
In answer to Alan & Cheryl:

The oil cooler is a transmission bolt on option. Not essential to transmission operation but thought to improve life of the box by keeping oil temp down. Probably not essential for boats that only use engines to get in and out of the marina. Here in Florida we often suffer lack of wind (or way too much) and end up powering 40 hours down to the keys. So, I bought the $200 option.

It cools the transmission oil by cooling the gear box case. It shortstops raw engine cooling water between the raw water inlet and the pump. Cut the hose and attach the ends to the to the cooler. (of course, the raw water hose id is 1" and the cooler couplings are 1 1/8 - adapters on order for that)

Attached photo of the cooler side of the trans. Sorry, about having to scroll around to see the whole picture, I have no photo editing software so am posting pictures as they come out of the camera without re-sizing:


18527.jpg


Speaking of raw water plumbing, both raw water line hose clamps, where the line attaches to the sea strainer, came off in our hands. Rusted all the way through. As was the hose barb (originally a bronze pipe nipple cut in half) found to have two good sized holes corroded all the way through the metal. Good to check these things now and then. Hose barb photo attached:


18528.jpg
 
Bob -

I purchased a tranny oil cooler, but am somewhat stumped as to how to attach it to the cooling system. What I'd like to do is have the water flow go from the raw water cooling system to the tranny oil cooler, and then go through the recently installed dripless prop seal (which forces coooling water past the cutless bearing, extending its life a bit). There's two parts to my problem.
First, attaching directly from the raw water strainer without some sort of pump forcing the water through the circuit won't work - the water needs to be pushed through the cooler.
Second, the outlet hose from the oil cooler is 1-1/8" diameter, and the hose from the dripless seal is only 3/8" - a nine-fold difference in area (and flow). Furthermore, the PSS manufuacturer states that a valve must be installed to regulate the water flow through the PSS seal, as too high a water flow may over pressurize the PSS seal.
So I've got to figure out how to correctly plumb the cooling water and regulate the water flow... and I think the only real way will be to splice into the cooling water AFTER the raw water pump, and to re-hook into the engine cooling system just before or just after the exhaust / muffler hose to the exhaust pipe.
Would love advice on this non-critical (but interesting) dilemma.
Hope this is all clear!
 
Matt, PYI sells adaptor/reducer you need. If I recall, I took cool water on its way to the heat exchanger to the PYI.

I think I'd go from the raw water pump, to trans, PYI, heat exchanger in series But that's my opinion. I'd ask PYI for a professional's opinion.

Dave
 
Thanks Dave -

Going in series would not work, as the PYI shaft seal exits the boat - so a Y joint would be needed, with the hose going from the raw water pump to the tranny cooler, then splitting into two (with one (bigger) hose going to the heat exchanger, and the other, smaller hose leading to the DSS seal).
I'm probably worried over nothing, but would the heat picked up by the raw water in the tranny cooler have a negative impact on the main heat exhanger - i.e., would the water be too hot to cool the engine oil?
 
Matt - the fitting I referred to is a T.
It diverts a small amount(3/8") to the seal. 1'x 3/8" x1" or something like that. I should have described it better.

I don't think you'll pick uenough heat off the tranny case to affect overall engine cooling. But again they tech guys at PYI are pretty sharp and they have done lost of them.
 
Got it, thanks Dave.

I tend to agree with you about the heat from the tranny, but as I'm not a mechanic, I'm a little reluctant to change what I have (which works okay) and find out too late that I've damaged something, somewhere, because of a modification.

I'll try contacting the PYI tech guys for their input.
 
FWIW, I heard from PYI, who suggested running the hose from the raw water strainer to the tranny cooler, and then to the raw water pump, and tapping into the hose between the heat exchange and the exhuast with their T-Adaptor kit for $60.
 
Dave -

I got it last year from Precision Marine in New Rochelle, NY. They're an excellent outfit - know more about marine deisels than I do, and are very professional. The cost was about $200, if memory serves. It bolts directly on to the side of the transmission (mine had pre-drilled holes).
 
I received my new Transmission yesterday on my front porch . Right on time as promised..
I got it from Atlantic transmissions..
Today it goes in and a sea trial is in order also.. I'm thinking this should be smooth !
Windrose M-384 Tarpon Springs fla
Lee Nicholas
 
At the last St Pete boat show I purchased a set of Garhauer dingy davits.
My wife and I put them on together.. It was not bad she is small so she was inside the lockers with the 5200 and nuts and a ratchet wrench.
Its 1 1/2 inch heavy SS. Sure looks good on the back of my 384. Will be easier than towing the dink ! Lee Nicholas
 
In answer to the transmission cooler plumbing question:

The raw water hose is cut after the sea strainer.
The hose from the sea strainer attaches to the horizontal (side) fitting on the cooler.
The hose from the cooler outlet (upper fitting) goes to the raw water pump.
All that plumbing is on the port side of the engine room.
Don't think I would care involve the oil cooler or the PSS.

Regards

Bob
 
Be sure to check transmission fluid often - and if your nut/dipstick in the top is 30 years old like mine, consider a new one. Noticed a weird noise the other day and seemed the trans would "slam" in to gear. When I checked the fluid, the dipstick had separated from the nut and was lose inside the trans. I used a stick magnet to fish it out. It was a little chewed up and bent, but I think I caught it quickly. Changed the fluid and tried to find any shavings with the magnet. Its working again well for now - we'll see how it goes.
 
F.Y.I. - from Foley

Two Common Problems with Hurth Gears

1) It is important to maintain the 0.5mm distance between the shaft arm and the shaft housing point. Not doing so can be harmful and cause drivetrain blinding, potential overheating of the Hurth gear transmission and its eventual failure.

2) Losing the dipstick washer. This can cause two problems. The copper washer works as an anticorrosive insulator between the carbon steel dipstick and the aluminum case of the ZF/Hurth transmission. Without this washer, you could find yourself in a situation where the dipstick becomes stuck in the case. Secondly, the absence of the washer will result in an incorrect reading of the oil level and even allow fluid to leak out.
 
Hey I know this an old thread but I'm trying to find to the ratio of my hbw10 we're by the 4108. I'm trying to fit a feather prop from either darglow or variorum thru ab marine. I don't see a tag on my gearbox, more of a stamped plate. It reads
Hbw 10 2R
947.40
Nr 04-17803

I've been looking online to decipher with no luck yet. Any input ratio and feathering props is greatly appreciated
 
internet's a beautiful thing ! I think this is correct. Try Transatlantic Diesel if you need some info, they're very helpful

upload_2018-3-18_19-58-50.png
 
Thanks Dave! I think the ratio may have changed over the years. This is a copy of the old hurth manual, saying forward is 1.79:1. The variprop rep also said the hbw10 was 1.79:1. and reverse 1.86:1. Still not sure enough to bet $2k on it...



Screen Shot 2018-03-19 at 9.03.04 AM.png
 
You might contact Sherri Moon at Transatlantic Diesel with your model info. She's very knowledgeable on many things Perkins & ZF.
One bit I've gleaned from M38 ownership is that the HBW 100 may be a bit undersized for the Perkins. Its natural for a boat manufacturer to go with a less expensive component. If you ever decide to go new (or rebuilt) you may want to upsize the gearbox to a 12 or 15 size. My boat has a ZF150 and it held only .6 qt of trans fluid. Longevity of the trans is a function of load and heat.( Foley diesel sells a water cooling kit for Hurth/ZF's for increased lifespan, as an example.) So turning more rpm for a given boat speed might be easier on a trans? Consult an expert on that one, not me.
I dreamed that I would install a bilge ventilator to cool the trans & feed cooler air to the Perkins were I to get serious about cruising.
 
I tried transatlantic today but she had already left, I'll call back tomorrow. My hbw10 seems to work fine and I have maintenance records back to 02 from an amazingly meticulous previous owner. Hour meter shows only 1300 hours...taking that with a grain of seasalt however..Definitely interested in upgrading if I start having trouble, also interested in the oil cooler. Will look into that. Thanks!
 
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