• Welcome to this website/forum for people interested in the Morgan 38 Sailboat. Many of our members are 'owners' of Morgan 38s, but you don't need to be an owner to Register/Join.

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There is a railroad lift bridge at Ocochobe that is posted as 49 ft high. There is no tide and the clearance on the south side is 49 ft 8 in. Our 381 has made it several times.

The Indianhead marina can heal a boat to clear the bridge if not too high.

Bill Buebel S/V Shadow
 
Remember that Morgan used two different mast in the 382 and the 383. The first one was 50 feet above the WL and the other was 54 feet. The shorter mast had a 14 plus foot boom and the longer mast had a 13.5 foot boom.

Jay
 
Katy,

At least from Melborn FL North to Norfolk there are no problems with our boats on the ICW. The bridges are 65' as reported.

I would not worry about our mast height. In NC there are some local bridges that are a problem but none on the ICW. If you have local bridges that are a problem that is another issue.

Vic
 
I plan on adding a chart plotter to my Morgan 384 and wonder if anyone has a suggestion and or recomendation as to what brand, size, features, etc. I should consider? I currently have Cetrek depth, speed and auto pilot, with Raymarine wind system installed.

Tom
 
Tom.
Electronic equipment and the manner it is installed, working with other equipment or solo, is a very individule subjective topic. Some people like to have all their equipment linked and talking to each other. Other guys like to have the electronics isolated and not inter-acting.
What ever makes you happy is what will work for you.
As for the chart plotter, I love my Garmin 2006C. I think that's the number, it might be 2106C. I have that and my Furuno radar mounted on a swing arm that lays against the starboard inside bulkhead, and swings out into the companion way. From the helm I have a perfect view of both. If someone else is on the helm I can sit anywhere in the cockpit and view both. I can also get down below without distrubing the swing arm if I am careful. Which is why I chose the 6" screen. They make a 10 inch screen in the same model 2010, as opposed to 2006. My chart plotter is color. I highly recomend that you spring for the extra buck to get color. I have sailed with other guys that have B&W. They show the same stuff on the screen but you can't see it as clearly as the color. Both will work fine but the color really makes a difference. Garmin uses Blue Charts and I can't find a fault with them. I can do extreme blow-ups, or extreme overalls. They are very flexable.
What I have just told you is subjective to me. I am very happy with this arraingment and would not change anything if I had to do it over. I have a very good friend that does all his chart plotting with the Capt'n, on his lap top. He is also very happy and would not change. So there you have two totally different set-ups and both guys are happy with what they have. I know another guy that has everything linked together and thinks it's the cat's meow. I have nothing linked together and feel safer. It's all very individule. As far a brand of electronics that you buy, I think that with todays technology every major manufacture makes a good workable product.
I'm giving you the best advice I can with out selling my personal opinion because as I said, they will all work fine.
Larry
 
Thanks, Larry. Your answers are one of the best reasons for this wonderful web site. I, too am going to be in the market to update all my electronic gear. The 382 I'm buying needs fresh stuff as the existing depth guage and wind speed instrument don't work. I'm headed to Chicago and Miami for the boat shows and I'll be like a kid in a candy store.

Dave
 
On chart plotters: the range in prices is substantial. I last year purchased a Garmin 82, I think it is called. Small unit--something over $500 for the unit and a couple of chart disks. No fancy colors. I keep it below, by my trusty, 15 year old Raytheon radar. I like it and it gets good reviews. For more money, you can get the bigger displays--which would be nice. Color is fun, but I think not necessary. I think the problem is: it is so easy to rely upon it, that you start doing that. Someday I am going to hit something and remember that it is just a tool, and it is not always going to be accurate. (Although, in British Columbia, I was amazed at its accuracy in locating my boat on the electronic chart. The more problematic issue, I think, is whether the things under water you might hit are accurately portrayed on the chart.)
 
It's just money, money, and more money! What's wrong with paper charts, inexpensive gps, and a radar?
Jim
 
Terry is right about relying on the electronics. It makes you lax. I found that I had to force myself to not be lazy and do my paper chart work. But the fact is that I have found the Garmin 2006C to be VERY ACCURATE. We have cruised from Mamaroneck, on Western Long Island Sound to Maine with this unit and find that the depth readings on the chart and our tracking through the water is dead on. But being an old timer I don't feel right if I don't have the navigation laid out on my paper charts.
As Jim says "it's just money". The fact is that in the 44 years that Deanna and I have been sailing we have been to all the same places with nothing more than a compass, paper charts, and a lead line for a depth sounder. But I have to admit what a warm fuzzy feeling you get when you are caught out in a thick fog and you look at your electronics and find that your chart plotter shows you that you are where your DR on the paper chart says, and then you look at your radar and can see the bouy that you are aiming for exactly where it should be. The stress aboard is at a minimum. You have confirmed your DR 2X. But if you don't have the technoligy aboard go with what you have. As I mentioned we got back and forth without any problems with just a compass, paper chart, and lead line.
Always remember that nothing replaces good seamenship. Not even all the most expensive up to date electronics that money can buy. It's still on you.
Larry
 
Thanks Larry, Terry and Dave for the great advice. I was thinking along the same lines; in that a major manufacturer is probably going to have a good product. I have a couple of friends who have Garman chart plotters and they are happy with the product. I have read reviews in Crusing World and they give both manufacturers good marks. I have narrowed it down to Garman or Raymarine. I probably will wait and see how much money is in the kiddy before making a decision.

Thanks again for the advice

Tom
 
Larry has some excellent points. First, Garmin makes a quality product. I have 2 of them I've used on land. One, a hand-held with just the basic features. The other, a fantastic unit that came with my BMW motorcycle. It's just loaded with neat stuff. I've used it for many of my travels across the country on the bike this year. Both have been flawless in their operation.

However, I think Larrys best point, and the one that I totally agree with most is that don't let the fancy electronics deter you from developing the most important skills of being able to read and navigate by paper charts and a good compass. I'm new to sailing and love the idea of being able to buy sophisticated gear, but I want to have a complete set of paper charts and have the skill to use them. There could come a time when you're out there and your gear quits either from internal problems or you get struck by lightning and everything gets fried. Then, the paper is great to fall back on. Great point, Larry.

Dave
 
It is sailing time in Texas. I will be racing / crusing my Morgan 384 Mi Bonita from Galveston Bay to South Padre Island starting Saturday and hopefulling arriving sometime Monday aftertoon. Intresting enough there is a Morgan 383 and another 384 entered in the race. I will track them down and compare notes when we arrive in South Padre. We are expecting 10 to 20 knot winds and 3 to 6 foot seas; should be a nice trip.

Tom
 
I took the leap and purchased Radar, and new instruments. I there for have my old data marine
depth, speed and wind. All worked but the wind did not alway display wind speed but apparent always worked.
If interested drop me a line.

John
 
Help!

I am looking for a drawing and or photograph of the starboard side of the cabin for a Morgan 384; over and or behind the settee. I own a Morgan 384 and I am in the process of restoring the vessel. Previous owners have modified the interior and I am looking to restore it to its original configuration, if possible.

Tom
 
Hi Tom,

I do have some electronic pictures of the interior with one of the original starboard settee, sea berth, etc. I don't think I can put this on the website so if you give me your email address I'll sent it along. Anyone else need one, let me know.

Kevin
 
Rookie Alert !

Just purchased 1984 M384 and will be needing lots of advice and help to get her back in shape. See you soon.......

Steve Horton
Savannah, Ga.
 
Steve
Welcome aboard the board. You'll really enjoy the boat and you'll find a lot of new friends here on the board. Lovely City you live in.

Jim
 
Hi Steve:

We bought out 382 a year ago and trucked it from the Chesapeake to Lake Lanier. We've been working to rebuild, refit, and upgrade her. With the fall winds building, we've been enjoying some good sailing. While it's nice docking her in the backyard on the lake, we hope to move her to the coast in a year for some more extended sailing. This list a great asset. Spend some time reading thru the archives and you will learn a lot. It's a great family of helpful owners.

We know of three other Morgan 38s on the lake. Nice to know of another in GA. If you get up this way sometime, let us know we can compare notes and ideas.

-Alan & Cheryl

Paragon, Lake Lanier, GA
 
Hello,
Recently purchased hull #10 and am now in process of upgrading/repairing boat and learning about the Morgan Organization. So this is a test message.
Tru
 
Does anyone know where the refrig./ice box drain ends? I have a drain hole in the forward inboard portion of the ice box and have run a 4 foot snake down it only to have it blocked before it came out anywhere. Previous threads have mentioned it ending somewhere in the engine compartment. Any help would be much obliged.

James s/v Telegraph, '80 Morgan 382
 
Hi James:

On our '81 M382, the icebox drain hose exits the box on the side of the box facing the engine. Inside the engine compartment, I can see the hose elbow and grey poly tubing that curves down and behind the bulkhead that forms the aft wall of the icebox. The tube is routed to a hand pump mounted on the bulkhead next to the trash pass-thru door. I can reach the pump through the port cockpit locker. The seals are bad on my pump and it doesn't work - it's been a low priority fix.

-Alan
 
My 1979 382 also has the drain line coming forward from the ice box into the forward end of the port cockpit locker. I have attached a hand pump in order to remove ice water from the box. I just pump my over the side although probably, when originally installed, the piping went to the aft torpedo tube. If you have put a snake down for 4 feet, you have gone well into the port locker. check for hoses entering the locker from the forward end.
 
Just purchased a 1980 Morgan 382. We sailed it from Clearwater Fl. to Ft.Myers. There is a swith located on then galley side of the companion way that looks like a plunger type switch. Can anyone tell me what this controls. It looks similar in appearance to the kill switch.
 
A good web site for current info is:
Salty Southeast Sailor.net
the site has info by geographic area and anyone can post to it.
 
Lyle, it's not standard equipment. A previous owner installed that switch. Good luck with your NEW boat, and welcome aboard.
Larry
 
Mast Height 382 ? I have seen a lot of posts about mast height and they vary based on instrumentation atop. Does anyone know what the BRIDGE CLEARANCE would be on a Morgan 382 with no instrumentation atop ?
 
Unless the mast has been changed/modified, the 382 specs show a height of 51 ft. The 383 and 384 masts were lengthened to @ 54 ft. There is a review/comparison on the boats on this site's home page.

Steve
 
RE the ice-box comments earlier. As I continue to learn about the Morgan, I find there's more and more to do to bring back the boat to 100 compliance with original specs. This week, I took out the port lazarette/locker platform that at one point had been glassed directly to the inside of the hull. The vertical plywood piece had split, causing the entire platform to slide into the engine compartment and threatening to put strain on the engine intake through hull. I will build a new vertical platform (running from port to starboard as well as from aft to fore) to repair this. I will need to "glass" these support frames in place, then screw in the horizontal platform onto the verticals. Anyone else have similar damage to this piece?

While I was down in the locker, I found the original hand pump that was used, from what I've read on this site, to drain the icebox of excess water (melted ice). The little brass and red rubber hand pump is attached to a triangular piece of plywood and had been screwed on somewhere in the area. For the life of me, I couldn't find where the triangular plywood was was originally fastened. Anyone know? There is sound/heat insulation over the area - not sure if the previous owner installed the insulation or if it was standard factory issue. If the previous owner did it, he probably covered up the screw-holes.

I also couldn't find the "intake" hose for the small hand pump, as it was not attached. It would be the drain directly from the icebox. Again, the previous owner may have cut the lines when he put on the insulation. Last summer, the ice box did not drain, so the line is either clogged, or goes "up" to provide for a water trap (locking in the cold air).

The pump is very small, was made by Peters and Russell of Ohio. After a quick Google search, I found out that Peters and Russell became PAR pumps, and PAR was subsequently bought out by Jabsco. They still make the pump (or something close to it), but it is marketed as a diesel or oil hand draining pump. It is, from what I can see, a tiny little hand pump. If I can find the drain tubing from the icebox, I may replace the tiny little hand pump with a "beefier" pump, to make for faster draining.
 
Matt,
It would make future research easier for those who follow if each time the subject of a post is changed a new thread is started so the information is cataloged under the searchable headings.

In answer to your question... my pump for the icebox is attached so that I can pump it through the trash door aft of the box. The handle sticks out into the opening in the bottom right corner as you look through the door. It drains into the transverse tube in the stern so no smelly water is dumped in the bilge.

My boat (79-382) was also insulated but four years ago it started to disintegrate and I have been slowly removing it as it falls off. Eventually I will re-install the insulation as it does make a difference.

Alan Shapiro
s/v EMANON
 
Hi Matt -
On my 384, the ice box drain hose came out of the side of the box, in the engine compartment. My pump was located there also - on the port side wall of the engine compartment. I am in the middle of a conversion and have pulled the hose off of my pump. I have installed a new bottom in the box (wonderboard) and simply turned the hose fitting 180 degrees so that it now acts as a drain. This was so easy that it caused me great concern and I had to stare at it for @ 20 minutes to eliminate Murphy's Law anxiety. The teak grate has become solid wonderboard (insulated below).The old pump had a six inch long hose that pulled water from under the teak grate. This hose was attached to a 1 1/2" long piece of 3/4 pvc which is now inverted and serves as the drain. Inside the engine compartment, I attached the 6" piece of hose and a screw-on PVC cap so that I control what drains to the bilge. I am re-insulating the box and installing an Adler-Barbour system. Nigel Calder books are well worth the purchase. Also - the old teak grate from the ice box fits perfectly on the floor in the head.
 
Matt,
I replaced the hand pump with a small electric 12V pump. It was as easy as take off old pump, attach new pump. Screw it down. With the hand pump it would take me 50 pumps twice a day to get the water out. Needless to say the electrec pump was a pleasure.
Southerly goes in the water wednesday morning.
Larry
 
Alan - I had done a search for ice-box drain, and got linked to this post.

Steven - Does your hose now feed directly into the bilge? Somehwere I read that it's important that the hose have a water trap in it, to ensure the cold air doesn't go down the drain.

Larry - I like the idea of an electric motor - makes all the sense in the world, and would be very easy to install. The hand pump supplied looks too small to be efficient and quick. Last summer I pumped out the icebox using a plastic bilge hand pump and a bucket. The hand pump is probably 20 times the size of the small brass pump, but permanently attaching something that size would not work well on such a small diameter hose. An electric pump with a dedicated switch is the way to go.

Good luck on the commissioning tomorrow!
 
I would not drain into the bilge. Doing that would put possible food products, etc. and cause odors or worse. I would run a line to the large tube running port/starboard. 12 Volt pump is good!
Jim
 
Matt: drain line from icebox. First, there is the hole in the bottom of the box itself. My line is one of those "grey flexible pipes" (like that much maligned for domestic water). It exits from the aft galley bulkhead into the starboard cockpit locker, down low. If you take out the locker "floor,"
you should be able to see where yours exits the bulhead. (My "floor" is not glassed to the hull, so I can remove it to access the engine or the through-hull, although it require times and screw-drivers to do it). I run my ice box drain to a hand bilge pump to pump out. It isn't "tied down." It is just a pump on the end of a flexible hose. To pump, I bring it up out of the locker, put the discharge line over the side of the boat, and pump. Not as elegant as a dedicated electric pump, but with a reasonable hand bilge pump, it goes fast.
 
Matt -
I have a wine cork in the pvc inside the box and a threaded male adapter and pvc screw-on cap on the drain hose in the engine compartment. When I remove the engine hatch, the hose hangs down on the port side of the door. If I have water, I can remove the cap and drain to the bilge. If I have a mess, I can clean the box and catch what comes through the hose in a bucket. I have not investigated where my old hand pump sent the water, but if it goes to the torpedo tube, that may be a good option along with a trap. My first inclination was to keep it simple.
Steve
 
Some success this morning - I had earlier removed the "floor" in the port locker, so I had clear access to the bulkhead inside the locker that butts up against the icebox. I was looking for a grey polybutylene pipe that would come from the icebox, but couldn't find it. I brushed against what I thought was a hose from the engine, and voila!, found out that it was not attached to anything. It was just the right length to reach the little hand pump. Logic dictated it was the missing hose.

Unfortunately, there's a clog in it - I got a small diameter clear plastic hose into the hose itself, and tried to get it into the drain in the icebox. I tried blowing and sucking (carefully watching the progress of the liquid up the hose, of course), but could not get it unclogged. The "yard guy" suggested putting some Clorox down the hose, which should kill and dislodge the clog if it's caused by algae.

Being the eternal optimist, I've already got a bilge pump on order, and will construct a panel to hold a spring-loaded switch with 20A circuit breaker, to be fixed just outside the garbage door. So all that needs to be done to drain it will be to push the switch momentarily until the icebox is dry. Thanks to all for your advice/knowledge/suggestions!
 
No joy on the bleach. Plan B is to hook up a garden hose, and using a series of reducer fittings, end up with a very small diameter hose (about 1/8" inner diameter) to flush out the drain hose for the icebox. The hope is that the hydrostatic pressure will flush out/unclog the drain.
Plan C hasn't been formulated yet, but is to avoid having to go to Plan D, which will be to replace the hose entirely by cutting into the bulkhead to gain access.
 
Matt, In the past I have had problems with a loose grape getting into the drain. Before you start cutting maybe you should try an electrician's snake. And maybe Draino or Liquid Plumber. I don't think you could do more harm with those products than you intend to do by cutting.
Larry
 
A good thought about the electrician's snake - I'll try it. I don't want to do the drano/LP route, b/c I've been told they can eat right through the pipe when they hit water, as they create an exothermic reaction.

Also, being a masochist as well as an optimist, I've started to build from scratch a new grate for the icebox. The previous owner got rid of the original, and replaced it with plastic-covered wire shelving (yech!). I've constructed a simple grate for the bottom shelf, and two interlocking grates for the top shelf. The bottom shelf has been varnished with 8 coats to ensure it's waterproof. But the top shelf will need to be able to slide easily, and if I varnish, this won't happen. I am thinking an oil finish will be good enough, but as I'm using walnut, mahogany, white oak and teak for various pieces(for cosmetic reasons), I'm a bit concerned about how they will hold up to the moisture. Thoughts?
 
I'm happy to report the "forced water" approach did the trick to free up the clog - and the resultant backsplashing all over my face greatly amused my 8 year old no end. The hose is now free of the clog - still not flowing freely, but there is some flow. More bleach should do wonders in clearing out the rest of the clog - from what a stiff wire was able to dig out, it appears that a wad of pre-masticated gum made its way down the hose.

Other completed tasks this weekend include the installation of the hourmeter for the main bilge pump, installation of an auxilliary bilge pump, the repair of the manual bilge pump and the re-painting of the aft lazarette with bilge-cote.

Another problem has surfaced (of course!) The hose that runs from the head's intake seacock to the galley sink foot pump needed replacing. After attaching the galley end to a new 1/2" hose, a friend and I tried to push from the galley and pull from the head. Got 90% of the way there, and then got stuck. I am willing to bet the hose is caught on the bulkhead between the main cabin and the head. So we dutifully took out all the screws on the plywood cover over the water tank. However, we couldn't get the plywood up - is there a secret to this?

Another mystery surfaced as well. When I got to the boat on Sat AM, there was a fist-sized puddle of water smack dab in the middle of the cabin sole, not quite directly underneath the hatch cover, but close enough to suspect there was a leak there. Yet the hatch cover and surrounding area were bone dry. The hatch was re-bedded last spring, and never showed any evidence of a leak. The boat is still on the hard, and was fully buttoned up, so I'm completely stumped. Any thoughts?
 
Oops! Just did a search in the archives and came up with the solution to the seawater hose access problem I mentioned above. As Emily Litella/Gilda Radner might say, "Never mind..."
 
Wanted: Cutter rigged Morgan 384 or perhaps 383. East Coast buyer can move promptly, financing unnecessary, private sale OK. Would like proceed promptly before seller has to lay up boat for winter. Please call Michael at 718 273 0331 or email mjnorth36@verizon.net. Thank you.
 
Michael,

Aside from one used in a picture on an early brochure, I don't think that there were any Morgan 38Xs factory rigged with as 'cutter', fyi. Any double headsail Morgan would have been added by the owner. Good luck on your search.

Jess
 
I'm the owner of a '78 M382. I am looking for a boom. Any body have sources or know of one for sale? It's 15' long.

Thanks
Wally
S/V Hokale'a
 
i just had my new to me 384 Splendor, Yup i'll change the name, out of the water for paint and stripes..
Can this gang tell me is my prop correct ? like a 11inch prop on my 28 sabre i had a 15 inch 3 blade and boy did i have power !!
Can you guys help me I'm about to go to the Bahamas in march and i need a second anchor ! So i have a luffern royal manual windless that i need to mount. BUT here is the deal i want to divide the shallow anchor locker roto zip the bottom out !
Glass in a bottom with a small triangle and provide a drain.40 ft 3/8 chain and 200 ft nylon rope.
I so hate reinventing the wheel !
Have any of you guys done this i could sure use tips.. Lee Nicholas cell 727 841 8510
 
Hi Lee!
Think you gave the wrong nr.! Tried tocall, but "she "said it was wrond nr.!
Anyway, I "roto zipped" out the old shallow anchor locker bottom, devided the new anchor locker down the middle with glassed in plywood. I did not, however, glass in a grid at the bottom! Maybe I should have, but so far, no problems! I made a cutaway in the partition), (not to low), to enable me to "stow" (castle?) from inside the veeberth, 300' of chain for the plow, on SB side. The other side is mostly rope with some chain, for the Delta.
The old hatch was used to glass over the hatch and the "Quick" double windlass was plased on deck behind with reinforsement glassed in under deck.
Hans-Edgar
 
Hi Lee:
We have a 382, #265. Paragon has a Perkins 4108. We have a 3-blade Maxprop but she came with a fixed prop as backup. It is a 16" right hand prop with 11" pitch. (I set up the Maxprop with 11" pitch - I like the performance.) Given the boat's displacement and engine HP, The added surface area of a 3-blade, (even higher on the Maxprop) is needed to reduce loading (pounds thrust per square inch) and reduce cavitation.
-Alan
 
I have heard that the stainless steel company that made the anchor roller in St pete fla. can and has made a like one for the others side for a 38 called The Green Flash.
Does any one know the name of the stainless company ?
would sure be nice to have a matching pain of anchor rollers ! Lee Nicholas 727 741 8510
 
The original wasn't that substantial and poorly fastened. Depending on your ground tackle, it might be worth having a metal shop make a dual, one piece roller designed for the anchors you plan to use.
Jim
 
Refrigeration ! I am planning on some type of frig ability for my 384 !
My idea was to divide my box in to say a third and on that wall put a holding plate, that will freeze food. and a hole on the new wall with a thermostat controlled fan
to turn on and off according to say 35-38. I can do this for say 2,500 . Plate fan and compressor !
I need advice I'm going cruising for the first tome 2 months to the Bahamas .
Any and all advice welcome.. Lee Nicholas
 
Lee, I am not sure why Jim suggests the original anchor rollers were insubstantial. I always felt the contrary and a bunch of us did have a mirror image duplicates made so we could have double rollers--a must for cruising. Any way, if you check the archives, you will find the name of the company with the design> Be be forewarned, 10 years ago, the owner did several at onece at a discount, and then said he was losing money and would be putting up the price. It was not cheap thereafter.
 
Terry & Lee, I said what I stated because I believe it to be true unless the boat is strictly anchored in inland waters or where there is little chance for strong downward stress applied to the roller. The original is poorly attached to the hull and the fulcrum distance is to great I believe. Every boat owner should make decision on what they feel confident with when anchoring. That means confidence in the chain, rode, anchor(s), windlass, and lastly, how retrieved and dropped from the boat, the bow roller. If I was in an emergency situation where I had to break an anchor free quickly or was caught in incoming waves, I would not like to rely on the OEM bow roller. In addition, it is not designed for a specific anchor.

Again, it depends on how you use your boat. In boating, it is always a personal choice and $$$s.
Jim
 
Lee, if you are thinking of adding a refrigeration system to the boat you MUST..MUST..MUST rebuild the box first. The original poured in foam insulation around the box was inadequate to begin with and becomes useless over time. A bottom needs to be added so the insulation is not against the hull, especially if you are heading to the Bahamas. Then when the box is ready, look at the Frigaboat system with the keel cooler. It works great and is plug & play to install. If I can help you, e-mail me at saildana382@msn.com.
 
On this bow rollers thing, the bow rollers are not meant to take the strain of the anchor rode while you are at anchor. That is what snubbers are for, and they lead to strong bow cleats through proper chocks, That said the Morgan has nither good cleats or chocks. Keep the roller, install substantian cleats to the bulkwards on either side of the anchor well, the install large chocks where the original cleats had been placed.
My two cents!
 
I totally agree but have always said to use a snubber or bridled snubber when at anchor. The point I was attempting to make was the raising the anchor and stresses applied on the roller when breaking loose from the bottom.
My additional 2 cents.
 
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