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Wood trim around hatch

B

bobclark

Bob Clark
Inside the cabin there is wood trim around the skylite hatch
openings in the main cabin and the fowd. cabin. I notice that
there are only two screws per side (8 in total). Is that all that
is holding the trim up? If so I am thinking of removing them for
refinishing and varnishing. Is it really that easy? Or, is this
going to turn into a typical 15 min. boat job that actually takes
15 days?
Larry
 
Larry, you guessed well. This is a "typical" simple job that is more than meets the eye. The trim (on my boat, anyway) is bedded with a white adhesive caulk that won't let go without a fight, and probable damage. Refinish the frame in place -- it's easier!
 
<div>Right! I believe the factory must have bedded that trim with 5200, 'cause I can't get mine to budge either. Needless to say, the overhead liner is also held in place by the trim, that section of liner apparently can't be removed either. Same goes for the hatch in the V berth.Fred
#165

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I removed the trim in the forepeak last year when I added insulation under the deck (which works great by the way). The trim was just screwed in place. I havn't tried to remove the trim in the main cabin.
 
<div>Larry
Both trims on my 382 #53 came off with just the screws. They were varnished at home and put back. They look great. I also removed the V-bunk headliner when the anchor windlass was installed and it also was put back without any problems. The factory use of 5200 must have come on the later models.
See you in West Harbor one of these days.Jim
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THANKS GUYS....
I think I will remove the 8 screws. If the trim drops off with out any bother I will take it home for finishing. If it seems tight I will not force it, instead I will finish it in place.
It is really great to have this group.
Thanks again,
Larry
 
This all sounds variable with the boats. I removed all the main cabin trim this winter and whited out the bulkheads, gloss varnished the trim. REmoval of trim was no problem. Slow steady pressure will break loose normal caulking; I find it hard to believe that Morgan would use something as expensive as 5200 on interior trim, but who knows. to those who have had problems, my condolences. I know how frustrating that kind of thing is, having run into other difficulties elsewhere. I just got lucky with the trim. I am very pleased with how light the boat is now that I got rid of all the dark teak, by the way. REcommend it--although it was a long, tiresome job painting everything with undercoating and then two to three coats.
 
My trim came out with persuation it was obviously bedded but not 5200. If youare going to replace your headliner or cheap Morgon floressent lights with Alpenglow light ( highly recommended) you will have to take this of at somepoint. Mine has been off and rebedded twice 382 hull # 74. We have also replaced all the headliner in the cieling area in main cabin, all wood at port level in main cabin, original plexiglass ports and all 5 opening ports with SS ports. Happy sailing.
 
<div>384 #44 Took both main hatch and forepeak off last weekend. They were just screwed in, no bedding, no calk of any kind. I was surprised. Do any of the rest of you-al have deck leaks(?). I have plywood teak overhead in forepeak and on port side main cabin that must be replaced due to water leaks. Sources not obvious & appears to be a case of general rebed of all topsides.
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Dick, what did you replace the liner with? I really dislike the vinyl, but I am not sure what to do except the tedious work of installing dozens of wood battens.
 
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