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Wiring Devices

S/V SoundWave

New Member
Finally able to start re-wiring the devices.
Only able to do post-panel wiring now, pre-panel is January's work plan.

Two questions:

  • Do you see anything I've overlooked or would wish I had wired?

  • Would you wire for heavier current draws of incandescents, even though all the new nav and cabin lights will be LED and have near-nil draw? I really haven't calculated cost savings on lighter wire gauge, if it's worth the savings or if it is better to over-wire.
Morgan 38 Soundwave.jpg
I appreciate any input or suggestions.

Thanks!
 
Today I wish I had a light in the icebox/refrig. I have battery operated motion sensitive lights in the large closet and the 'wet locker". I wish they were wired to the house, and I would have more of them in more lockers. I didn't see an AC plug in the head, or a fan, unless the ones in the port settee are for the head. I have small LEDs in each corner of the settees. Hmmm, if I had to do it over...

How are you wiring your speakers on the rails, how does that work, what do they look like?
 
Chip,

Nice diagram. Devoting time and effort to planning always yields a better outcome.

My thoughts and questions....

Are you planning to run new wiring for systems and pumps (propane, water heater, macerator, potable water pump, bilge pumps, etc.). Will these be on a separate drawing?

12V Outlets -
We found we use these frequently and in various locations aboard. These outlets power / charge many devices these days - phones, tablets, laptops, handheld GPS, portable SSB radio receiver, headlamps, toothbrushes, etc. We plan to install a single 12V outlet in the cockpit, a single in the galley, a double at the Nav Station, a single at the forward end of the star salon seat / berth, a double atop the star wardrobe in the vee berth. The outlets near berths are important b/c people typically charge devices at night. Additionally we use a handheld GPS for our anchor drag alarm. Having a outlet near our berth ensures we will hear the alarm and that the GPS does not loose power overnight.

Interior Light Wiring -
I anticipate that all future interior lighting will be LED. On small to medium sailing vessels I split the interior lighting into a least two circuits / zones (e.g. port & star or fore and aft). Larger vessels with multiple distinct cabins are split into additional zones. Often engine compartments or other enclosed spaces (i.e. lazurette, cockpit lockers, anchor lockers) will have a separate circuit for the light. This is done so that lights in these areas are not accidentally left on 24/7. The number of lights in a circuit will need to be accounted for when you choose a wire size. I typically use 16 ga wire for interior lighting. This is over-sized for most LED lighting circuits, but will accommodate the load if a future owner/project uses the circuit to install a cabin fan, 12V outlet, or device with a small load.

Interior Light Placement -
  • Recommend either overhead or port & star side wall lights in engine compartment. My preference is side wall lights as this set up leaves fewer dark, shaded areas when working on engine.
  • Recommend light in passage between star lockers and head door. This can be overhead or mounted on midship wall. This will provide light when going through items in lockers.
  • Recommend overhead light in just inside the fwd cabin. This will provide light for lockers / drawers on starboard side.
  • Recommend all overhead lighting and nav station lighting be bi-color. The ability to illuminate the cabin in red (or other color that promotes night vision) is important safety feature. This is true for all vessels. Even if you do not plan on overnight passages, there will be times when you need to work at night due to storms, other vessels dragging anchor, etc.
Running Lights -
Due to importance of these lights, longer wire runs, and more common use of incandescent bulbs I typically use 14ga or 12ga wire for these circuits. If planning to do any overnight passages, I strongly recommend a mast head tricolor light. The tricolor needs to be on a separate circuit than the lower running lights as they are not intended to be illuminated at the same time.

GFCI Outlets -
If the first outlet in a series circuit is GFCI, then all outlets "downstream" of this initial outlet will be GFCI protected. You only need to purchase one GFCI outlet for each circuit.

Hope this is helpful. Please let me know if you have questions about my reply.
 
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Looks good. I would suggest red lights under the companionway step, a switch near the entrance into the salon to illuminate some part of the interior for safety, and magnetic switches that turn a light when you open a locker door or hatch, good for the refrig also. Jim
 
I agree with Jeff on the need for 12v outlrts, but I would use at least 12awg wire for these. As for the mast wiring, I ran an 8awg negative from the panel the mast light terminal block instead of running a bunch of individual ones.
 
Chip
You seem to have the systems covered. As far as wire size goes, it's always better to go with a larger size wire for your needs. It might cost you pennies more to install but it will save you bucks down the line. A cool thing I am installing this winter is a dual USB plug that comes directly from the 12v DC batteries. Blue Sea makes the plug that cost about $30. It will make it easier to charge phones & iPads.

Jim
 
I would be hesitant to install dedicated USB plugs. All new Apple and Google phones & tablets are using the new USB-C plugs. It is inevitable that Samsung, Asus, HTC, etc will soon be converting to USB-C as well. These plugs are not backwards compatible with the current USB plugs. I suggest installing the traditional round 12V outlets and then installing a plug in adapter for the latest style of electronics plugs.
 
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Jeff
You are correct. The Blue Sea USB plugs are 2.0. My boat does not have a 110 volt system. To charge our devices we now use a 1000 watt inverter. That means converting 12 volt DC to 110 volt AC then stepping back down to 5 volt DC to charge. That cannot be efficient. Our present devices, iPhone and iPad, are older generations and should work slow but OK. Hopefully by the time we upgrade our equipment, Blue Sea will have upgraded their USB plugs

Jim
 
Thank you for the great ideas.

Rolf - lighting in key lockers and the food storage, good. Did have a head light on my paper plan, failed to put it on the drawing, Will add the head fan, what an oversight. Oh, and I like these audio speakers made by Kicker from the ATV/golf cart world. Installed them on my last boat, they're surprisingly good. 4" Coaxial speakers, similar to wake tower speakers on ski-boats but smaller.. Look like this. Run the speaker wire inside the rails. Better sound, especially at the front where my kids hang out. Plus, it's reversible, and no 6" holes in cockpit walls that can admit seawater if you forget to use the covers.

Jeff - right now, I'm only rewiring the overhead devices, since the headliner is removed and will be replaced after wiring. I'm doing the cabin sole in early 2016, and will run low wires at the same time. The emphasis on 12V outlets is noted, as is the engine room lighting and night-vision friendly dual-color cabin lighting. And the masthead tricolor, and passageway lighting.
Jeff, my wife really thanks you for the step-lighting and the entry switch idea.
Jose, bigger leg with local distribution for the mast makes great sense.

I will try to post an updated drawing this week. We really thank you for your input, much better plan now!Kicker 4%22 Marine Speakers.png
 
I have used a led string over my ice box and over the electric panel . Both with push on switches . The ice box one is long enough to shine in the frig side and the freezer side. ! I also have a 6 ft led string 12 v just behind the starboard SS rail. It has a remote right next to the Companionway on a hook. keeps the salon lighted for the pets the poodle and cat when we are ashore. Its on a dimmer too !
 
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