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White electric panel switches replacements needed

wild382

John
Help please! A couple of those white switches got broken of when something fell against the panel.
Does anyone know where I can get replacements?image.jpg
 
The " White switches " are standard circuit beakers , West marine etc. Colors white or black or red usually 5,10,20 amp .The screws you see hold them in place. Yes you should carry spares.
Don't be afraid to loosen the panel with the battery switch off and AC to the boat off. The wires on the back should be held in place with screws. A 10 minute change out !
 
They are on Amazon Blue Seas Circuit breakers 13 dollars each or west marine about a thousand dollars !!! LOL !
 
Really appreciate your quick response!
You wouldn't happen to have a link to the site? Thank you so much!
We were hit by a trimaran two weeks ago ...not been a great experience:)
We lost our water temperature reading too.
 
Hit by a trimaran ! He was jealous cause he had a ugly boat and you have a Morgan. ! Call your lawyer !!
I boat.com seems to have the best price 12. and change . Blue seas are the best in marine electrical
 
You can barely see the adhesive shrink wrap covering the hole by the cove strip on the port aft. $5k to fix! We will be glad to get her back. No other damage other than a bent gate stanchion. Just can't let anyone work on your boat...they break stuffthanks for the switch info...
 

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Yes probably just a wire...we had a technician working on something on the engine and he probably did something...he said he had to rewire something! We just had to stop using our marina's service guy...
 
I'm a x phone repairman we always asked the customer when they had a problem shortly after another repairman was out. just where was he working ? That always saved me 45 min work !
You should not let some one work on your boat with out you present. You will never learn that way ! And or you may get more bad than you bargained for !
 
Hi guys
A while back I posted a question about where to get the circuit breaker replacements...does our Morgan typically use 15-20 or 30 amp breakers? I'm not at the boat 3 hours away...
I was thinking 15-20 amp but don't want to use the wrong amperage ...thanks in advance!
 
John
The Blue Sea company sells circuit breakers with different color toggles. They are sized from 5 amp to 50 amps. You need to size your breakers to protect your wire size first and the equipment you are protecting next. If you are protecting electronics you should go to fuses. Most electronics only require 1 to 5 amp protection which you can't get with a circuit breaker.

Jim
 
Right now I just want to replace that breaker so I guess when I can get back to Wild Oats I'll pull the Panel and see if I can see what amperage the broken one is. I'll also make sure we look into the fuses...don't want any fires or damage to new electronic equipment. Thanks again!
 
John
I've attached a photo of Dana's electric panel. The vertical columns are circuit breakers which power pumps, lights, etc. The bottom row are fuses and switches which control the electronics. Radios, radar, computer, chartplotter, etc. Because that equipment draw so little, less than 5 amps, they can only be protected by fuses.

Jim
 

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John:

Open this link and scroll up to Jeff Lovett's post for the owners manual for the 382. Open the Appendix Drawings and scroll down to the drawing for the DC Breaker Panel. That will tell you the amp size for each circuit breaker on your panel. According to the drawing there is (1) 20 amp, (3) 10 amp and (4) 5 amp circuit breakers. To answer your question circuit breakers do not have fuses. They replace fuses.

http://www.morgan38.org/morgan38/index.php?threads/m382-owners-manual.11437/#post-108266

Frank
 
Thanks guys!....duh! I hadn't even thought to look in my manual...slowing down I guess. Thanks for taking the time to respond and post! Nice panel on Dana...
 
John:

I bought mine new 37 years ago. I have not rewired or done any other significant changes to the boat.

Frank
 
I've had my boat for 7 years. I completely rewired it about 5 years ago. The wiring I removed looked like it would be a mile long if stretched end to end.
Frank,
I'm impressed that you are an original owner. I wonder if you are the only original owner on this site. I think I'm at least the fifth owner of mine.
 
We are the third owner...The original owners, really nice people, had the boat 26 years. They stored it in his own barn made for Wild Oats every Winter.

The second owner did some really nice things to the upholstery added a nice new dodger and Bimini. We added new electronics and some new sails twice in 5 years. We wanted to go that quarter knot faster! :)) Both origianl owners have come from far away to see their good ole boat.
They sail thousands of miles on her. Kay wrote a well known cook book among cruising sailors. They now live in Florida instead of CT.

The second owner checks up on the boat regularly to see that we are not "abusing her" in anyway. We feel we have to improve her each year to keep them happy!

joni-marcus-kay-wild-oats.jpgmarcus-kay-wild-oats.jpg

This is the second owners...you can see why, with that Rolls Royce they check on their old boat...they loved her as we do too!

Kuerth-Wagon.jpg


They loved her and it is always sad to see them leave. Sorry to have gotten off topic...
 
John
Bonnie and I are the second owners of Dana. The first owners had her for 9 years and we've had her for 29 years now. The only original wiring remaining on the boat are a bit of the cabin lighting concealed in the overhead. The panel in the photo is located against the stbd side hull just aft of the chart table. As discussed here on this board many times before, the wiring done on these boats out of the factory was substandard. Especially by todays ABYC standards. The 110 volt system from the factory was a fire waiting to happen.

Jim
 
Make sure you disconnect the AC shore power cord and turn the battery switch to the off position before you open up the electrical panel. While you are there, make sure all electrical connections are tight and inspect all wire insulation near the connection for signs of heat(discolored or charred). The original wiring was one of the weak spots on this boat. I rebuilt my panel and added a new panel extension just for the AC. will take pics next time I'm down at the boat.
 
Thanks Jose! Maybe ill disconnect the battery entirely just in case. Would love to see more pictures too. I always wondered why the chart plotter went bonkers starting the engine....the local yard mechanic that installed insisted we needed new batteries. We bought three new sealed batteries $800. Did not do it. So the new rule was turn them on after we start the engine. Always worked until we switched the electronics. We are in an area with poor technicians at best...putting it nicely...they are not always very capable of doing all projects. We do what we can but are far from the boat. I imagine with what we pay we could afford another house closer!
 
Jose, I'd really like to see pictures of your modified electrical panel with the extra panel added just for the AC circuits.

I'm planning to do the same thing.

Thanks!
 
Hello everyone, I've been away delivering a sailboat from Beaufort, NC to South FL over the past week. (SV Archer Delivery) On my way home now. Will spend some time catching up on correspondence and comment here tomorrow.
 
The " White switches " are standard circuit beakers , West marine etc. Colors white or black or red usually 5,10,20 amp .The screws you see hold them in place. Yes you should carry spares.
Don't be afraid to loosen the panel with the battery switch off and AC to the boat off. The wires on the back should be held in place with screws. A 10 minute change out !
Found some of these on Amazon, Defender and a couple other places...I'll get a few...
http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Syst...1240974&sr=8-6&keywords=blue+sea+breaker+5amp
 
http://m382pilgrim.blogspot.com/2015/09/fabricating-diy-anl-fuse-block.html

Yes that would be great....maybe Jeff Lovett has a circuit schematic and pictures too? I saw this page on his blog...


I just created a Pilgrim Electrical Photo Album on this site. The album contains DC & AC primary wiring schematics.

Here is a link to the spreadsheet I am using to design and calculate loads Pilgrim Electrical System. Please note this spreadsheet is a work in progress and will be updated and edited as I continue to install and refine Pilgrim's electrical system.

Hope this is helpful.
 
Found some of these on Amazon, Defender and a couple other places...I'll get a few...
http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Syst...1240974&sr=8-6&keywords=blue+sea+breaker+5amp

Was going to suggest Amazon for purchasing BlueSea systems hardware. Amazon appears to carry the complete line of BlueSea hardware. In my opinion BlueSea Systems is producing outstanding marine electrical equipment at this time. In addition their website's Support / Articles section (https://www.bluesea.com/support/articles) contains a wealth of valuable knowledge.
 
I noticed your shower pump is 15 amp...mine is a 5 amp. (the broken one) Is there a reason? The original schematics show a 5amp too I think...
 
Here are some pics of the electrical panel and the engine control panel
 

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The short answer is... 5 amp breaker insufficent for task. 10 amp breaker would suffice. I had a 15 amp breaker on hand so I used it. Here is the logic behind my decision...

If I remember correctly the shower sump pump on Pilgrim is a small jabsco diaphragm pump that pulls 7.5 amps. Circuit breaker must be same or larger than load. Next larger common circuit breaker size 10 amps.

Based on ABYC Wiring Sizing Chart a non-critical 10 amp load with a 30 foot circuit length (round trip) would require at least 14 gauge wire. Due to length of wire run for circuits in head, I chose to use 12 gauge wire for the run from the panel to the shower sump pump. The larger gauge wire will help eliminate voltage drop and heat issues that can arise in long wire runs.

According to ABYC wire ampacity chart 12 gauge wire can safely handle up to 45 amps in cool environments (ampacity decreases in hot environments i.e engine compartment.) So using a 15 amp breaker is well within the capacity of the wire and it saved me from purchasing a new 10 amp breaker.

Remember circuit breakers primary role is to limit with amps in a circuit to a level that is compatible with the wire gauge. Using over sized breakers with under sized wire is a fire hazard!
 
Jeff while your overall reasoning as to the wire sizing is correct, fuse/breaker sizing should also consider the device being powered. While the wire will handle the current, the pump being powered might overheat and cause a fire at the device. Using a 10A breaker for a device rated at 7.5A is OK. Using a 15A breaker is marginally safe. Using a local fuse at the device would allow for any size breaker( larger than the device rating ), in this case the breaker .
When dealing with a dc motor, voltage drop due to wiring is a major issue, a motor driven by a lower voltage will draw proportionally larger current. A larger current will heat the windings and accelerate failure.
 
For me I want to thank all those who contributed to my question about the "white electric panel switches". I always learn more than I asked. You all helped ...thanks...
 
Thanks ...I would want them to match my white switch ones...maybe they have them with white. Great price!
 
I know these pictures were to show the panels but I gave to say I love those quarter birth doors! We like the clean look. The electric panels are nice too...of course. Like the logical access.
 
Jeff
Your electrical work is beautiful. I can only imagine the hours invested in the rewiring. The backrest for the chart table is a nice idea. What do you do with the space that was the quarter berth?

Jim
 
John
If you google "Blue Sea Marine Circuit Breakers", you'll come up with a number of sources for the breakers with the white toggles. You will also find that the pricing is close to half of what Worst Marine is asking. Amazon has them for $15.

Jim
 
John
If you google "Blue Sea Marine Circuit Breakers", you'll come up with a number of sources for the breakers with the white toggles. You will also find that the pricing is close to half of what Worst Marine is asking. Amazon has them for $15.

Jim
Thanks Jim ...I did find them. Now to take the panel off and take a look at what will probably not be pretty:))
 
John, I found this nifty device today and I thought you might need it in your re-wiring projects. Not plugging amazon, this is where I found it.

http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-MAXI-Block/dp/B000THTBZO/ref=pd_sim_200_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=51N6JVqRGXL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL320_SR222,320_&refRID=0WEDY88NTWT7W60Z6HVZ
Yes
I can! Thanks. Very kind....I will keep you posted on our progress.
We also want to change out the shore power switch that is tucked in under the back of the lazerette...it's tough to get to easily as the ol' back gets older and sore
 
Jeff
Your electrical work is beautiful. I can only imagine the hours invested in the rewiring. The backrest for the chart table is a nice idea. What do you do with the space that was the quarter berth?

Jim

Thanks for the compliments on the rewiring... time spent in planning stage is key



Quarterberth is now devoted to storage space. It will likely house off season clothes, the sailrite sewing machine, spares, etc. It also houses the battery charger, inverter, engine raw water sea cock, engine raw water strainer, and a system for filling water jugs off the starboard deck scupper.

Here is a link to a photo album of the quarterberth refit... Quarterberth Refit Photo Album
 
So...I took the panel off...old style circuit breakers! Soldered together down one side ...
Can't replace with the new ones unless I redo a lot
 

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Any idea what glue would work to glue the broken white toggle switch back together? I'm not sure what kind of plastic the old switch (the switch part itself -white part)
 
John
You could try using cyanoacrylate glue (also known as CA glue, also known as Crazy Glue). Although there are plastics that it just won't bond. You'd have to try it to see.

Jim
 
I was trying to figure out what it was...styrene can meld-weld certain plastics like when we used to build models. Google gets real confusing...lots of videos trying to sell stuff!
I just don't want to ruin it. Easier than rebuilding the panel right now. Thanks...
 
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I'm going to try either soldering the joint and/or try Testors 3502 plastic cement...supposedly it works on a variety of plastics by melding the two materials together. You are lucky where you are st our sailing season up here in the NE is pretty much June-August part of September...We are ready to go sailing...just have to get an answer from the yard on the tranny. Or have my friend Dave come over to help. Everything is so far away!
 
We were viewing your tabbing projects. Maybe we will add the tabbing in the star-locker and aft bilge area too.
 
Jeff sold me Pilgrim's original electrical panel, which I'm incorporating into Arrrgh-O's electrical panel to correct deficiencies noted by my surveyor, as well as to allow for future expansion.
 
Jeff sold me Pilgrim's original electrical panel, which I'm incorporating into Arrrgh-O's electrical panel to correct deficiencies noted by my surveyor, as well as to allow for future expansion.
Thanks Jeff and Steve...always something...last year when we had the boat gleaned the person cleaning used a pressure washer and not only damaged the teak but now we have to rebed the deck hardware that got hit with the hi pressure from the nozzle. Asding to the list is the tranny that has acted up now and then. Waiting on a mechanic to verify the problem do if it needs to be replaced I might just get Joses old Hurth HBW 10 ...everything is always do different from boat to boat I just want to get it checked out.
Probably just replacing the panel would be good but we always get that domino thing going and one thing leads to another...you know!;)
We have some races to compete in so keeping the list as short as possible is proving to be a challenge
 
John, As I mentioned above, I have n old panel with all the circuit breakers and meters. I am not in a position to post pictures.
 
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