Replacing the aged port-lights on 1978 Morgan 382 with Beckson ports (they fit with minor modifications on rain drain location). Pulled the first one out yesterday (came out fairly easy) and found alot of moisture in-between the outer hull & interior. Has anyone placed new insulation inbetween this layer ? We are thinking of using the foam insulation that we have used in the past to plug ice-box holes. Found grocery bag material w/the wet plywood inbetween fiberglass. Always interesting.
Port replacement
- Thread starter xanadu
- Start date
dickkilroy
Richard Kilroy
Pam: Dont think you have to fill the space with foam. I didn"t when I replaced mine on Vixen our 1978 38-2, I used ss ports. As long as your outside seal on the new port is solid all should be OK. Also note you will probably have to do something with the head port as it is deeper than the others. I had stainless added to mine to make the spicot long enough. Good Luck
Dick
Dick
Help! The ports in the head and after stbd berth require a spigot of approx. 2 1/4". We would like to replace all the portlights with NFM Bronze ones but I don't know if their 2" extended one will fit the head & quarter berth. I have read most of the posting on the board about portlights replacement, any further feed back or assistance would be most helpful.
Thanks Chris
Thanks Chris
Chris: I replaced the port light in the head with a custom made port from Beckson. They increased the size of the spigot for me by fusing just the edge from one port to another to make it deep enough. Nice job. Area around opening on boat needed some work to make it fit but does so nicely. Am very pleased. Call them and explain what you need. Good luck.
Pam,
I just bought a full set of ss ports from NFM for my 1979 382. I followed their measurement instructions and ordered a deeper one for the head. It had to be special ordered and took a couple of months to arrive but it came in exactly as I ordered. I have just one installed so far and am quite happy with the result.
John
I just bought a full set of ss ports from NFM for my 1979 382. I followed their measurement instructions and ordered a deeper one for the head. It had to be special ordered and took a couple of months to arrive but it came in exactly as I ordered. I have just one installed so far and am quite happy with the result.
John
pearl
John Cram
Alan,
http://www.newfoundmetals.com/
The head port was M414E "2"
The rest of the ports were M414 with 10.5" drains.
I did not install a quarter berth port since it originally was not on my 382 and added much later.
I suggest getting the drill guide and counter bore to keep the holes straight.
John
http://www.newfoundmetals.com/
The head port was M414E "2"
The rest of the ports were M414 with 10.5" drains.
I did not install a quarter berth port since it originally was not on my 382 and added much later.
I suggest getting the drill guide and counter bore to keep the holes straight.
John
I need to rebed some ports and think I will replace them at the same time. i have a 383 morgan. Is Newfound metal the way to go? I do think I want srainless steel. Did the ports fit or did you need to do modifications. The other big question is how big a job is it? I am not necessasarly real handy.
Bert Willett
Bert Willett
Bert, I think MNF is the way to go. When I replaced my ports a few years ago I was also concerned about "what am I getting into".
The port replacement is pretty simple and straight forward except for the head and the quarter berth. You need extenders there. NMF will make them for you.
I made the mistake of thinking I was going to make it easy for my self by ordering the original replacements ports. It was a mistake. I had to build the extenders myself . And the replacement ports are giving me a problem now, just a few years later.
Larry
The port replacement is pretty simple and straight forward except for the head and the quarter berth. You need extenders there. NMF will make them for you.
I made the mistake of thinking I was going to make it easy for my self by ordering the original replacements ports. It was a mistake. I had to build the extenders myself . And the replacement ports are giving me a problem now, just a few years later.
Larry
kenk
Ken Kurlychek
Frank,
I replaced my old Beckson ports (lens only) with new Beckson ports and still have the old lenses. I'd be happy to send one but they are all kind of cloudy (which is why I replaced them). The cost of new plastic ports from Beckson is not that bad so I'm not sure how useful my old ones would be to you. But, if you want one and are willing to pay postage, I'd be happy to send it along.
Ken
I replaced my old Beckson ports (lens only) with new Beckson ports and still have the old lenses. I'd be happy to send one but they are all kind of cloudy (which is why I replaced them). The cost of new plastic ports from Beckson is not that bad so I'm not sure how useful my old ones would be to you. But, if you want one and are willing to pay postage, I'd be happy to send it along.
Ken
mauiswimboy
James Baker
Hi Tom,
I completed the same replacement on Telegraph this past summer. I didn't use their recommended butyle rubber because I didn't feel that I could squeeze the outer ring to the port with sufficient tightness to seal it properly. So I used 5200 and as the ports are of excellent quality didn't feel that I would ever need to remove them again. I'm on my way to Panama from SE Florida as I write this to you and so far no leaks.
All good things,
James Baker
s/v Telegraph
I completed the same replacement on Telegraph this past summer. I didn't use their recommended butyle rubber because I didn't feel that I could squeeze the outer ring to the port with sufficient tightness to seal it properly. So I used 5200 and as the ports are of excellent quality didn't feel that I would ever need to remove them again. I'm on my way to Panama from SE Florida as I write this to you and so far no leaks.
All good things,
James Baker
s/v Telegraph
Frank Martin
New Member
Most of the comments on relacing ports are for NFM. The size to order is of concern because NFM will not allow returns or refunds.
There are messages with several different sizes for the head and quarter berth.
I Would appreciate confirmation of the size for the head (2', 2 1/4 or ?) and the quarter berth. The rest of the ports apparently are 4x14 with 1 1/2 depth?
Frank
There are messages with several different sizes for the head and quarter berth.
I Would appreciate confirmation of the size for the head (2', 2 1/4 or ?) and the quarter berth. The rest of the ports apparently are 4x14 with 1 1/2 depth?
Frank
mauiswimboy
James Baker
Frank,
I've replaced all the Ports on Telegraph(382) with NFM replacements. Rather than pick a size, the better strategy would be to remove your's and measure the openings. NFM are very quick to ship as long as they have them in stock. I had to special order the quarter birth from China so it took longer.
All good things,
James
I've replaced all the Ports on Telegraph(382) with NFM replacements. Rather than pick a size, the better strategy would be to remove your's and measure the openings. NFM are very quick to ship as long as they have them in stock. I had to special order the quarter birth from China so it took longer.
All good things,
James
I just finished dry fitting all new NFM ports in my 1979 382. The regular 2" spigot fit the head but there isn't much of the spigot beyond the trim ring but that should not make any difference other than visual. If they had a 2-1/4" spigot available I would have chosen that one. I have seen ports installed by the boat builders where the spigot is flush with the trim ring.
The NFM ports are not drop in replacements but luckily I have a good router amongst my tools. Don't even try it if you can't get your hands on a router. When I removed the port in the head and saw the butcher job done by the yard using a jig saw it was apparent this was not the way to attempt this. The fiberglass at the forward ports is about 1/4" bur the others a about 1/2 - 3/4 thick. Not something you can cut easily.
I had the Beckson port with the additional piece epoxied on and at 2-1/2" it was always geting kicked when moving for and aft and it finally broke. Which is why I got involved with replacing my ports.
Next weekend I will be sealing in the ports that is going to be the tough part. The supplied instructions are good but they don't deal with the hollow space between the liner and outer shell of the cabin in the head.
b-tw my understanding is that they will accept returns but charge a re-stocking fee. Call them he was really helpful and friendly.
Good luck.
Alan Shapiro
s/v EMANON
The NFM ports are not drop in replacements but luckily I have a good router amongst my tools. Don't even try it if you can't get your hands on a router. When I removed the port in the head and saw the butcher job done by the yard using a jig saw it was apparent this was not the way to attempt this. The fiberglass at the forward ports is about 1/4" bur the others a about 1/2 - 3/4 thick. Not something you can cut easily.
I had the Beckson port with the additional piece epoxied on and at 2-1/2" it was always geting kicked when moving for and aft and it finally broke. Which is why I got involved with replacing my ports.
Next weekend I will be sealing in the ports that is going to be the tough part. The supplied instructions are good but they don't deal with the hollow space between the liner and outer shell of the cabin in the head.
b-tw my understanding is that they will accept returns but charge a re-stocking fee. Call them he was really helpful and friendly.
Good luck.
Alan Shapiro
s/v EMANON
Just some additional thoughts on the port replacement.
If I were doing it again I would defintly rent the template for the new opening size. Getting it accurate in a material that will last through 5 ports is tough and for $10 plus return shipping your done.
I ordered the drill guide and the counterbore and they are invaluable. I would sell you mine but after 40 holes the drill and the counterbore probably would not go another 40 without sharpenning, if that is possible.
Alan
If I were doing it again I would defintly rent the template for the new opening size. Getting it accurate in a material that will last through 5 ports is tough and for $10 plus return shipping your done.
I ordered the drill guide and the counterbore and they are invaluable. I would sell you mine but after 40 holes the drill and the counterbore probably would not go another 40 without sharpenning, if that is possible.
Alan
Frank,
I have just recieved all new ports from NFM and plan on replacing them in the coming weeks for my 384. I ordered 4 x 14 x 1.5 for most of the ports. The head port was 4 x 14 x 2.5 and the quater berth was 4 x 14 x 3.5. I also ordered new ports for the galley and over the nav. station; they were 26 x 6 x 1.5. It took about six weeks for the special order ports. I requested the drill guide and template for the openings. I will let you know how it all goes.
Tom
I have just recieved all new ports from NFM and plan on replacing them in the coming weeks for my 384. I ordered 4 x 14 x 1.5 for most of the ports. The head port was 4 x 14 x 2.5 and the quater berth was 4 x 14 x 3.5. I also ordered new ports for the galley and over the nav. station; they were 26 x 6 x 1.5. It took about six weeks for the special order ports. I requested the drill guide and template for the openings. I will let you know how it all goes.
Tom
terry_thatcher
Terence Thatcher
Tom: So, did you get some sort of stainless port for the big fixed ports over nav station and galley? I had assumed to replace those I would just eventually replace the lexan/acrylic along the same lines.
Checking in with those who've recently installed NFM ports. NFM's spec sheet says 4 with 1,5" spigots and 2 with 2" spigots.
We have a 1981 M382 #265. We are going to replace the stock ports with New Found Metal ports as others have done. Many have written about the experience and about the size of the spigot for the head and quarter berth.
Alan Shapiro - 1979 M382 - You said the 2" Spigot for the head was a little short. What about the quarter berth? Other comments now that they are installed? Did you use their butyl sealer?
Tom Frankum - M384 - You said you used a 2.5" in the head and 3.5" in the quarter berth - I wonder if the 384 is that much different. How much do your spigots extend beyond the exterior trim ring?
James Baker - M382 - What sizes did you install? Still happy with the 5200 sealer?
Other comments, insights, experiences appreciated.
-Alan
We have a 1981 M382 #265. We are going to replace the stock ports with New Found Metal ports as others have done. Many have written about the experience and about the size of the spigot for the head and quarter berth.
Alan Shapiro - 1979 M382 - You said the 2" Spigot for the head was a little short. What about the quarter berth? Other comments now that they are installed? Did you use their butyl sealer?
Tom Frankum - M384 - You said you used a 2.5" in the head and 3.5" in the quarter berth - I wonder if the 384 is that much different. How much do your spigots extend beyond the exterior trim ring?
James Baker - M382 - What sizes did you install? Still happy with the 5200 sealer?
Other comments, insights, experiences appreciated.
-Alan
Alan,
The port that I used in the head was the 2" spigot and it fit alright but there was no exposed portion of the spigot after initial assembly. Later as I tightened up on the screws as the butyl bedded in I got a little more exposure. No real problem in the first rain storm we endured on board. My plastic port that was a replacement by the yard only 5 years prior had the extended spigot 2-1/2" and it was always getting kicked and stepped on. This eventually broke and was part of my decision to replace all the ports.
You may need to use clamps to pull the interior and exterior surfaces together to start the assembly but after starting it is easier going.
The hard part with the head port is that the butyl or other sealant you use has no inner surface to compress it and force it to fill the voids. But if you use plenty on the exterior surface you should get a good seal.
My 382 did not have a port in the quarter berth so I can't help you there.
Good luck.
Alan Shapiro
s/v EMANON
The port that I used in the head was the 2" spigot and it fit alright but there was no exposed portion of the spigot after initial assembly. Later as I tightened up on the screws as the butyl bedded in I got a little more exposure. No real problem in the first rain storm we endured on board. My plastic port that was a replacement by the yard only 5 years prior had the extended spigot 2-1/2" and it was always getting kicked and stepped on. This eventually broke and was part of my decision to replace all the ports.
You may need to use clamps to pull the interior and exterior surfaces together to start the assembly but after starting it is easier going.
The hard part with the head port is that the butyl or other sealant you use has no inner surface to compress it and force it to fill the voids. But if you use plenty on the exterior surface you should get a good seal.
My 382 did not have a port in the quarter berth so I can't help you there.
Good luck.
Alan Shapiro
s/v EMANON
Alan,
I am sorry to say that all of my new ports are sitting int he garage; too much work of late. I plan on installing in November, when I have time and it is a little cooler in Texas.
I purchased the 2 1/2" port for the head to make sure that there was enough spigot to span the width of teh cabin sides; dido for the quater berth. I figured a little exposed is better than forcing something to work that was a little short.
The trick I face will be in replacing the two port lights over the galley and nav station. I had to order larger sizes and will have to cut out the exisiting opening to make room for the larger port lights.
On another subject. the new ridder is installed and working properly; no leaks. FIrst time in 3 years the rudder packing has not leaked.
Tom
I am sorry to say that all of my new ports are sitting int he garage; too much work of late. I plan on installing in November, when I have time and it is a little cooler in Texas.
I purchased the 2 1/2" port for the head to make sure that there was enough spigot to span the width of teh cabin sides; dido for the quater berth. I figured a little exposed is better than forcing something to work that was a little short.
The trick I face will be in replacing the two port lights over the galley and nav station. I had to order larger sizes and will have to cut out the exisiting opening to make room for the larger port lights.
On another subject. the new ridder is installed and working properly; no leaks. FIrst time in 3 years the rudder packing has not leaked.
Tom
Tom,
I am interested in your old portlights. I am planning on rebedding my existing port lights and am concerned about there condition after I remove them. It would be great to have some 'spares' in the event I end up with some that are not useable.
Thanks,
John A. Dery
S/V Alaris, M384
Panama City, Florida
I am interested in your old portlights. I am planning on rebedding my existing port lights and am concerned about there condition after I remove them. It would be great to have some 'spares' in the event I end up with some that are not useable.
Thanks,
John A. Dery
S/V Alaris, M384
Panama City, Florida
I'm putting an 81 382 back into shape. If your quarter berth portlight is still available i'd be more than happy to take it off your hands. Mine is disintegrating.
Thanks,
carter
seabee8@hotmail.com
Thanks,
carter
seabee8@hotmail.com
John & Carter
I will be glad to ship the port lights to one or both of you. I have removed the quater berth, head and one of the salon port lights already. I am waiting for better weather to finsih the job; hopefully before next spring. I am also replacing the two large aluminum port lights over the galley and anv station. John and or Carter contact me at t.frankum@comcast.net for the details
Tom
I will be glad to ship the port lights to one or both of you. I have removed the quater berth, head and one of the salon port lights already. I am waiting for better weather to finsih the job; hopefully before next spring. I am also replacing the two large aluminum port lights over the galley and anv station. John and or Carter contact me at t.frankum@comcast.net for the details
Tom
davidsmith
David Smith
Tom,
What brand are you Nav and Galley portlights and where did you get them.
Dave Smith
What brand are you Nav and Galley portlights and where did you get them.
Dave Smith
Hi All:
NFM is shipping our ports this week - except for the custom-order 2.5" spigot version for the quarterberth. I also requested a template but NFM says they are all out - apparently few people return them to collect the deposit.
Does anyone have a template they are not using / are done with? I suppose I could make my own but I understand that using theirs simplifies the process.
Thanks.
-Alan
NFM is shipping our ports this week - except for the custom-order 2.5" spigot version for the quarterberth. I also requested a template but NFM says they are all out - apparently few people return them to collect the deposit.
Does anyone have a template they are not using / are done with? I suppose I could make my own but I understand that using theirs simplifies the process.
Thanks.
-Alan
David,
The Nav. / Galley portlights are NFM. I ordered the closest size available without a custom ordor. The NFM are about the same width but about 3 inches longer. I will give you the measurements when I find them.
Alan,
I have a 4 X 14 template that I can ship to you when I am finished; that is if you will ship it back to me when you are finished so I can return. The template makes the job so much easier.
Tom
The Nav. / Galley portlights are NFM. I ordered the closest size available without a custom ordor. The NFM are about the same width but about 3 inches longer. I will give you the measurements when I find them.
Alan,
I have a 4 X 14 template that I can ship to you when I am finished; that is if you will ship it back to me when you are finished so I can return. The template makes the job so much easier.
Tom
pearl
John Cram
Alan,
I am replacing my quarterberth port also with the NFM port. I am coming up with a 3 inch spigot dimension. I have not order the port yet. Too cold to visit the boat to recheck.
I aslo notice NFM port dimensions have changed a bit from from 2 season ago when I replaced all the other ports. Any comments?
John
I am replacing my quarterberth port also with the NFM port. I am coming up with a 3 inch spigot dimension. I have not order the port yet. Too cold to visit the boat to recheck.
I aslo notice NFM port dimensions have changed a bit from from 2 season ago when I replaced all the other ports. Any comments?
John
Hi John:
I ordered ports at the Annapolis boat show based on the NFM recommendations. (four 4 x 14 ports with 1.5" spigots, two with 2" spigots) After I got home, I got a little nervous about the sizes and decided to measure.
Our 382 is hull #265 and was built in 1981 - maybe one of the last 382s built since I've seen 384s listed with 1981 build dates. All that is to preface the fact that while I've measured my ports, yours could be different. Mine were different that the thickness listed on the NFM website and others in earlier posts here also list different spigot sizes.
Using a caliper, I measured the full thickness of the port, outside to outside then subtracted the thickness of the rims to determine the cabin wall thickness as described on the NFM website. I mesured top and bottom and found some difference (between 1/8" and 1/4")
The dimensions below are the calculated cabin thickness (at top of port / bottom of port)
Main cabin: 1.0625 / 0.9375 - use standard 1.5" spigot
Head: 1.75 / 1.5625 - use 2" extended spigot
Quarter berth: 2.3125 / 2.0625 - ordered 2.5" spigot
Good luck.
-Alan
I ordered ports at the Annapolis boat show based on the NFM recommendations. (four 4 x 14 ports with 1.5" spigots, two with 2" spigots) After I got home, I got a little nervous about the sizes and decided to measure.
Our 382 is hull #265 and was built in 1981 - maybe one of the last 382s built since I've seen 384s listed with 1981 build dates. All that is to preface the fact that while I've measured my ports, yours could be different. Mine were different that the thickness listed on the NFM website and others in earlier posts here also list different spigot sizes.
Using a caliper, I measured the full thickness of the port, outside to outside then subtracted the thickness of the rims to determine the cabin wall thickness as described on the NFM website. I mesured top and bottom and found some difference (between 1/8" and 1/4")
The dimensions below are the calculated cabin thickness (at top of port / bottom of port)
Main cabin: 1.0625 / 0.9375 - use standard 1.5" spigot
Head: 1.75 / 1.5625 - use 2" extended spigot
Quarter berth: 2.3125 / 2.0625 - ordered 2.5" spigot
Good luck.
-Alan
Alan,
I doubt that I will be finished by February; it is raining about every three days in Houston. I have to wait until I have the time from work and have a day of sunshine to open up the cabin side to the eleminets. I have four more 4 X 14 port lights to replace.
John,
I purchased 4X14X1.5 for the salon portlights, 4x14x2.5 for the head portlight and 4X14X3.5 for the quater berth portlight. These deminsions give me about .5" to .75" of the spigot extending beyond the exterior rim. You probably could get away with 3" spigot on the quater berth. these mesurments give me a uniform look on the exterior of the boat.
Tom
I doubt that I will be finished by February; it is raining about every three days in Houston. I have to wait until I have the time from work and have a day of sunshine to open up the cabin side to the eleminets. I have four more 4 X 14 port lights to replace.
John,
I purchased 4X14X1.5 for the salon portlights, 4x14x2.5 for the head portlight and 4X14X3.5 for the quater berth portlight. These deminsions give me about .5" to .75" of the spigot extending beyond the exterior rim. You probably could get away with 3" spigot on the quater berth. these mesurments give me a uniform look on the exterior of the boat.
Tom
Tom:
Good luck with your port replacement. I'll keep looking for a template - don't want to slow down your project.
Jim:
You're right - I don't think I want a big extention from the port into the cockpit at shin level. I hope it will work out well - the other options are a lot of custom cutting and grinding to make it flush or a custom-tapered spacer since the wall thickness varies top to bottom.
-Alan
Good luck with your port replacement. I'll keep looking for a template - don't want to slow down your project.
Jim:
You're right - I don't think I want a big extention from the port into the cockpit at shin level. I hope it will work out well - the other options are a lot of custom cutting and grinding to make it flush or a custom-tapered spacer since the wall thickness varies top to bottom.
-Alan
pearl
John Cram
Alan:
Tom:
Jim:
Thanks all. Pearl, Hull#95 originally did not have a quarter berth port which I added (two bomars glued together) when I first got boat many moons ago. I am sure the thickness varies from boat to boat and 3 inches what I measured for the cabin thickness. I definitely agree with Jim the less spigot past the trim ring the better for you ankles.
Tom:
Jim:
Thanks all. Pearl, Hull#95 originally did not have a quarter berth port which I added (two bomars glued together) when I first got boat many moons ago. I am sure the thickness varies from boat to boat and 3 inches what I measured for the cabin thickness. I definitely agree with Jim the less spigot past the trim ring the better for you ankles.
To All,
It realy is not that bad. I placed the portlight in the opening for a dry fit and tried to hit the spigit extension prior to a perminent mounting. The last thing I want to do is beat my leg up while sailing; we sail off shore quite a bit.
The seat trim extends about .5" past the seating over the quater berth, which makes it hard to hit the spigit with your shins. I tried to hit myself with the extension and could not; thats not to say it will never happen but not easy to do.
The butal rubber from NFM is in a coil / rope configeration. I used it on the quaterberth portlight and it is a bigger mess tham LifeSeal. What ever sealant you use you want it to extrude from around the exernal ring, boat and spigit to gurantee a seal; not a good idea to have to remove the portlight and reseal. I have a bucket of water and several wet rags to wipe the sealant as I tighten the bolts. I would like to recommed that if you use LifeSeal to use their clear sealant. I have tried white, clear and the butal rubber; the clear looks the best with stainless.
Tom
It realy is not that bad. I placed the portlight in the opening for a dry fit and tried to hit the spigit extension prior to a perminent mounting. The last thing I want to do is beat my leg up while sailing; we sail off shore quite a bit.
The seat trim extends about .5" past the seating over the quater berth, which makes it hard to hit the spigit with your shins. I tried to hit myself with the extension and could not; thats not to say it will never happen but not easy to do.
The butal rubber from NFM is in a coil / rope configeration. I used it on the quaterberth portlight and it is a bigger mess tham LifeSeal. What ever sealant you use you want it to extrude from around the exernal ring, boat and spigit to gurantee a seal; not a good idea to have to remove the portlight and reseal. I have a bucket of water and several wet rags to wipe the sealant as I tighten the bolts. I would like to recommed that if you use LifeSeal to use their clear sealant. I have tried white, clear and the butal rubber; the clear looks the best with stainless.
Tom
Hi All, here is the link to step by step
NFM port install on T-37. http://nicknack.us/
NFM port install on T-37. http://nicknack.us/
The instalation process is not complicated and is straight forward. The template makes the differance between a hard instalation and one that is fairly easy.
Because the portlight and trim ring are through bolted together there is no room for a mistake in the drilling of the holes through the cabin sides.
I have used butal rubber and LifSeal to seal the portlights; both do the job well and frankly is matter of preference. If the portlight hole is larger than necessary I will use the butal rubber in combination with the LifeSeal to have the best chance of a water proof seal.
Tom
Because the portlight and trim ring are through bolted together there is no room for a mistake in the drilling of the holes through the cabin sides.
I have used butal rubber and LifSeal to seal the portlights; both do the job well and frankly is matter of preference. If the portlight hole is larger than necessary I will use the butal rubber in combination with the LifeSeal to have the best chance of a water proof seal.
Tom
To All,
I have finished replacing all of the port lights on my M384 and they do look great. I tried the butal rubber from NFM and found it to be a big pain. I ended up using Life Seal clear on most of the port lights and it looks good and seals the port lights well.
As expected the port lights over the nav and galley were the hardest to install because the opening was about 1" larger than the new port lights. I used butal to close the gap and then life seal on the spigit and trim ring. I have taken a garden hose and flooded the port lights; no leaks.
The bigest problem was cutting the the bolts that secure the port lights in place to length; too long and it will not pull the trim ring tight against the cabin side, too short and you will not be able to make the conection with the trim ring. I used a Dramel Tool to cut the bolts; a bit slow but it did a good job. A good measurment to cut the bolts ended up being the thichness of the cabin side plus .25".
The old port lights came out relativily easy except for the large ones over the galley and nav station. These are aluminum and the trim ring bonded well to the cabin side, which resulted in a big pain in the $%& to remove; the previous installer may have used 5200. Ended up pulling some gell coat away from the cabin side while removing the old port lights. The NFM trim ring covered most of the damaged gel coat and I will end up repairing the rest; you can onle see the damaged gell coat if you lie on your belly and look under the port light. I discovered a Debonding liquid which worked great at breaking the old sealant bond; discovered the debonding liquid after removing the galley and nav port lights. I believe it is sold at WM and is expensive but worth it.
I am sending the 4 X 14 template back to NFM today. I have a complete set of port lights minus the quater berth port light for a M384 to give away if someone will pay for the shipping. I believe John A. Dery has requested them; Alan send me an email if you still want the original port lights.
Tom
I have finished replacing all of the port lights on my M384 and they do look great. I tried the butal rubber from NFM and found it to be a big pain. I ended up using Life Seal clear on most of the port lights and it looks good and seals the port lights well.
As expected the port lights over the nav and galley were the hardest to install because the opening was about 1" larger than the new port lights. I used butal to close the gap and then life seal on the spigit and trim ring. I have taken a garden hose and flooded the port lights; no leaks.
The bigest problem was cutting the the bolts that secure the port lights in place to length; too long and it will not pull the trim ring tight against the cabin side, too short and you will not be able to make the conection with the trim ring. I used a Dramel Tool to cut the bolts; a bit slow but it did a good job. A good measurment to cut the bolts ended up being the thichness of the cabin side plus .25".
The old port lights came out relativily easy except for the large ones over the galley and nav station. These are aluminum and the trim ring bonded well to the cabin side, which resulted in a big pain in the $%& to remove; the previous installer may have used 5200. Ended up pulling some gell coat away from the cabin side while removing the old port lights. The NFM trim ring covered most of the damaged gel coat and I will end up repairing the rest; you can onle see the damaged gell coat if you lie on your belly and look under the port light. I discovered a Debonding liquid which worked great at breaking the old sealant bond; discovered the debonding liquid after removing the galley and nav port lights. I believe it is sold at WM and is expensive but worth it.
I am sending the 4 X 14 template back to NFM today. I have a complete set of port lights minus the quater berth port light for a M384 to give away if someone will pay for the shipping. I believe John A. Dery has requested them; Alan send me an email if you still want the original port lights.
Tom
seabreeze384
Rick Parish
Tom
What is the name of the "debonding liquid" you mention in your 2/29 post? Am I understanding correctly that this liquid if applied to a joint that is bonded with 5200 will permit removal of the sealant without damaging the sealed parts? I have 2 access plates in my head that are sealed with 5200. The plates are fiberglass/gelcoat material of the same construction as the head compartment and I do not want to damage the plates or surrounding wall as I try to remove the plates.
Thanks
Rick
What is the name of the "debonding liquid" you mention in your 2/29 post? Am I understanding correctly that this liquid if applied to a joint that is bonded with 5200 will permit removal of the sealant without damaging the sealed parts? I have 2 access plates in my head that are sealed with 5200. The plates are fiberglass/gelcoat material of the same construction as the head compartment and I do not want to damage the plates or surrounding wall as I try to remove the plates.
Thanks
Rick
Rick,
I am going to the boat today and will write down the name of the debonding product. Unfortunatley I did not use it on the large port lights so I can not say if it works on 5200; I believe the labeling on the product does state that it will work on 5200. I used it on the silicon sealant and the trim rings almost fell off of the cabin side.
Tom
I am going to the boat today and will write down the name of the debonding product. Unfortunatley I did not use it on the large port lights so I can not say if it works on 5200; I believe the labeling on the product does state that it will work on 5200. I used it on the silicon sealant and the trim rings almost fell off of the cabin side.
Tom
Hi Tom:
I ordered a set of NFM ports. All but the custome order port with the longer spigot for the quater berth have arrived. Now I'm waiting on a template from NFM - they are out. I know you need to return it to NFM for your deposit - any way you could "deed" it to me when you send it back?
Thanks for posting all your experience of the replacement it will certainly make our job go more smoothly.
-Alan
Paragon M-382 #265
Lake Lanier, GA
I ordered a set of NFM ports. All but the custome order port with the longer spigot for the quater berth have arrived. Now I'm waiting on a template from NFM - they are out. I know you need to return it to NFM for your deposit - any way you could "deed" it to me when you send it back?
Thanks for posting all your experience of the replacement it will certainly make our job go more smoothly.
-Alan
Paragon M-382 #265
Lake Lanier, GA
interlude38233
Geoff Kane
Tom, I sure could use a couple of the portlights if there are any left. Kanes
Alan,
I will "deed"the template in your name when I ship it back on Monday. You will llije the way the NFM portlights dress up the boat. An added benifit is the added light inside the cabin;they realy lightin up the interior.
Geoffrey,
You can have all of them if you John does not want them.
John,
Do you still want my original portlights?
Tom
I will "deed"the template in your name when I ship it back on Monday. You will llije the way the NFM portlights dress up the boat. An added benifit is the added light inside the cabin;they realy lightin up the interior.
Geoffrey,
You can have all of them if you John does not want them.
John,
Do you still want my original portlights?
Tom
jesse_garman
Jesse Garman
I am in the same boat with the template. A couple of weeks ago I left a message for anyone with a template to send it back but no one responded. I'm number 2 on the waiting list at NFM.
Why don't you just pay each other the deposit and then the last person to use collects from NFM. If they won't allow that then I made a template from foamcore right off the ports themselves and then extended the template opening by the 1/4" that is required. This in conjunction with the drill and guide that Richard will sell you worked well for me. After one season I can't imagine why I waited so long to get rid of the OEM Ports.
By the way I bought the screens, the new style with the gaskets that are installed from the inside and was wondering if anybody else has used these and has any tips for easily getting them in and out. I think I would prefer the old ones that installed from the outside and admitted more light and air.
I also used a router to enlarge the openings and would recommend using one over a saw of any kind. It is quicker and leaves a much cleaner opening. I does however kick up a lot of f/g dust. I had a friend follow the cut on the inside with a shopvac and that worked well. Of course we both wore dust masks.
Good luck with the installation.
Alan Shapiro
s/v Emanon
Falmouth, ME
By the way I bought the screens, the new style with the gaskets that are installed from the inside and was wondering if anybody else has used these and has any tips for easily getting them in and out. I think I would prefer the old ones that installed from the outside and admitted more light and air.
I also used a router to enlarge the openings and would recommend using one over a saw of any kind. It is quicker and leaves a much cleaner opening. I does however kick up a lot of f/g dust. I had a friend follow the cut on the inside with a shopvac and that worked well. Of course we both wore dust masks.
Good luck with the installation.
Alan Shapiro
s/v Emanon
Falmouth, ME
Alan,
I purchased the new screens with the gaskets but as of yet have not installed. I called NFM and asked for the old type of screens but they are not selling them anymore for the 4X14; they came with the 5X26. They indicated the old screens are chrome plated and tended to rust. Let us know if there are any problems with the instalation.
Tom
I purchased the new screens with the gaskets but as of yet have not installed. I called NFM and asked for the old type of screens but they are not selling them anymore for the 4X14; they came with the 5X26. They indicated the old screens are chrome plated and tended to rust. Let us know if there are any problems with the instalation.
Tom
interlude38233
Geoff Kane
Hi Tom, Thanks for the consideration, I'll wait for a reply from John before further comments. Thanks the Kanes.
Hi All:
Got a call from NFM tonight. They have received a new shipment of 4 x 14 templates - just in time for spring. If you've been waiting for one, they are now in stock. Give them a call and get it sent before they run out again.
-Alan
Paragon
M-382 #265
Lake Lanier, GA
Got a call from NFM tonight. They have received a new shipment of 4 x 14 templates - just in time for spring. If you've been waiting for one, they are now in stock. Give them a call and get it sent before they run out again.
-Alan
Paragon
M-382 #265
Lake Lanier, GA
Geoffery,
I have not heard back from John so contact me at t.frankum@comcast.net for shipping information on the port lights.
Tom
I have not heard back from John so contact me at t.frankum@comcast.net for shipping information on the port lights.
Tom
interlude38233
Geoff Kane
Tom and Carter, sorry for the delay in my reply. I really only need one portlight. If you would break up the set, please let me know. I'll watch for reply. Thanks, Geoff
Hi Tom,
Looks like you won't be needing anyone to store the ports. Let me know if this changes. I'll be down March 27th. through that weekend to change out a shower sump pump and my tach. If you'll be at your boat any during that time, let me know and i'll make a trip over. I'm a glutton for punishment, seeing your boat will only make me realize how much more i've got to do to mine.
cb
Looks like you won't be needing anyone to store the ports. Let me know if this changes. I'll be down March 27th. through that weekend to change out a shower sump pump and my tach. If you'll be at your boat any during that time, let me know and i'll make a trip over. I'm a glutton for punishment, seeing your boat will only make me realize how much more i've got to do to mine.
cb