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Perkins 4-108 Parts to be available

M

mattfahey

Matt Fahey
FYI - After 34 years of faithful service, my Perkins 4-108 is now leaking enough oil where it warrants either a re-build or a replacement. After talking to a mechanic, I've opted for the latter - a Yanmar 4JH5E, to be precise. To correctly replace the leaking rope seal between the fly-plate and engine block, the engine needs to be removed, the transmission taken off, flywheel cover removed, and all parts thoroughly cleaned and replaced with new rope gasket.

The mechanic warned that other parts could soon fail, and a new engine will be more efficient, smaller, and quieter (I think even putting in a jet engine would be quieter than the Perkins!).

Having bought the boat from the original owner's estate through a donation, I was never quite sure how many hours were put on the engine before I started adding about 50 hours a year (since 2007). I was told the original owner didn't use the boat much after the first five years, instead using it as a cocktail lounge in Boston Harbor.

This winter, I'll be putting up the various components of the engine on E-Bay in a most likely futile effort to defray the cost of a re-power. Hurth tranny, relatively new delco alternator, starter motor, engine block, new (2013) Sherman impeller raw water pump, and other bits and pieces.

As I take off the parts, I'll let the board know.

Next Spring, I'll most likely spend all my boating time gazing at the new engine in a clean and OIL FREE engine room in total adoration!
 
John -

Truthfully, I don't know at this point - probably my marriage!

I've been given an estimate of ~12K for the engine, with another $2K for installation. I'll do the engine room clean, paint and replacement of soundproofing myself (along with installing a light). The mechanic won't know exact figures until he measures the engine space. Thankfully, it looks like the hoses, fuel, electrical and exhaust are all roughly in the same spots on both engines.

The unknown factor is the prop - Yanmar's HP is higher than Perkins, with a different gear ratio as well. But I have a Vari-prop, so the pitch can be changed quite easily.
 
Matt,

The engine does not have to be removed to replace the rear seal. Several of us have done it, and described the procedure in the archives. It is not a big deal for anyone with reasonable mechanical skills.

You may want to check with a mechanic that has suitable experience.

I would be happy to discuss the details with you.

John Noble
M-384
 
I have a question here. Matt mentioned a rope type gasket for the rear seal, and when I bought a gasket kit from Trans Atlantic, they sent me a cork type gasket. Can anyone who has replaced the rear seal confirm either the rope type or cork type gasket ?
 
My new Trans Atlantic trans has a cork gasket. Just maybe 30 years ago they used rope ? !
The new gasket makes all that leaky black oil just go away ! Lee/ Wind Rose
 
A 4-108 full rebuild kit is $750+/- from TAD. New cyl. liners, pistons, bearings, vslves, guides and seals, might include rocker arms too (don't remember). Finding a qualified machinist is the real challenge, but I can't imagine it would cost more than $3k to install liners, resize/rebush rods, fit pistons. Lets say $5K. Still a big difference. Maybe I'm just a cheap sailor!

I have been told by my local fuel injection shop that the CAV injection pump parts are all available and can be rebuilt. Injectors are on the shelf as an exchange.

While new engines are quieter and cleaner.... some of the noise may be from a less than stellar soundproofing job by Morgan. Marine generators are quiet because they're in a box. That (uninsulated)open area under the cockpit may be partly to blame why the "old wood chipper" sounds so loud!
Keep us posted Matt - Good luck

I own some vintage British 4 wheel iron and rope seals improperly installed are problematic. Plumbing technology!
 
Dave
I used silent running paint on the inside wood portions of the engine room as well as the underside of the port locker lid and surrounding areas.
I was amazed at the sound damping I achieved.
I work with sound and called the company before ordering it. After that I replaced the old insulation and added some on the port locker interior...even better. Everyone comments how much quieter it is.
I'd be glad to answer questions
 
Bill and Lee,

I think you are confused on which gasket or seal we are talking about. The rear seal is on the crack shaft journal where it exits the engine block. It is held in a two piece housing that is clamped on the journal. The housing bolts to the block. The seal and housing are in two pieces since it cannot side over the flywheel flange at the end of the crack shaft.

Replacing the rear seal does involve removing the transmission, fly wheel housing (bell housing), and flywheel (not a big deal). These should be reinstalled without gaskets as sealing the flywheel housing would cause any oil leaking from the real seal to accumulate around the flywheel. Any leaked oil should be allowed to drain. Without gaskets in these locations, a dial indicator is not needed for alignment if the machined surfaces are clean.
 
JOHN Wild 382
Where does one get that sound deadening paint ? how about a link ? !! who makes it ?
I have been using 25 sound deadening tiles from sailors solutions, but if I could paint it he inside of the sail locker/ 5KW Gen locker it would sure be easier
thanks Lee M 384
 
John,
I would deal with TAD ( trans Atlantic diesel) for engine parts. As for a rebuild, a turnkey rebuild is about 6K for the engine. 1K for the tranny. Does it have a Hurth 100 or a 150. My 382 was a early model and it had the Hurth 100, which is undersized for the engine. I sold the 4108 ( running) for 2K and right now I am in the process of installing a new Volvo. I have read on other websites that the installation cost almost equaled the cost of the engine.
A total of 2K for the installation sounds a bit low, considering you might need some glass work on the stringers and a new prop shaft. I am doing most of the work myself, If I was paying for the job I would guess it would it would come close to 5K or 6K.
Check the platform that the aqua lift muffler is installed on, mine was rotted.

Best of Luck!

Jose
 
Matt,

I just repowered with the 4JH5E. Since the engine exhaust is a larger diameter, I needed a completely new exhuast system, including the muffler, and exhaust through-hull. Also, we increased the prop size to 18" which added to the cost.
The engine beds had to be raised 2.25", but that was it. If the transmission had not been offset, it would have been a drop-in replacement.
Jose is right, $2K for the install is a little low. We paid $3800 in labor. Then of course there are new sea water hoses, and we went with new fuel lines also. The total was $19K.
Sorry for the somewhat disturbing economic news, but that was the estimate, and also the final bill. In spite of the economic hit, it is really sweet.
The engine is about 160 lbs lighter than the 4-108 and has a good bit more power. We get 6 knots at 2200 RPM, and it is quiet. Real quiet, compared to the 4-108.
We would not have repowered if the Perkins had not thrown a rod. I had replaced the rear main bearing seal, and it did not leak a drop. But it had 6000 hours on it, and we really did not know its history.

Tim
 
Matt, I had my rear seal replaced by McMichael 2 years ago. Not a big deal. He had to lift the back of the engine. While he was there he replaced the rear mounts.
Larry
 
Thanks Larry... The mechanic at Precision Marine told me that he could replace the seal, but it would be a bit of money, and the engine would need additional work. For example, my heat exchange is almost shot, and an oil analysis indicated there's some metal shavings in the oil - not critical, but a clear sign that age is beginning to show itself. And just like our bodies, things will begin to break down.

Most people would repair the engine based on cost, but I'm thinking I'd rather have the reliability of a new engine. Plus, the two sins of a Perkins engine - dirty and loud - count against it. A new engine will be cleaner and quieter, which might help stem some of the complaints from the admiral when we're underway.
 
Jose & Matt - please update the group periodically as to your progress. This is a big investment in an old boat. One that will be difficult to retrieve financially in the short term. Its a big decision! I personally can't see the ROI of a $15K+ engine replacement but that's just me and my boat.

Over the weekend, I read 25 pages of a Cruiser or Sailnet forum about a guy who was personally rebuilding a 4-108. New liners pistons etc the whole smash step by step. (Exactly as I would try it being mechanically inclined) After devoting a couple hours of reading, the guy never finished the damn article. So I don't know if it was a success or dismal failure.
The irony isn't lost on me!
 
Dave -

I'm also mechanically inclined, but 1) don't have the precision instruments needed to re-build (the maintenance manual lists quite a few specialized tools needed, many of which are probably hard to find and expensive), 2) don't have the place or the time to re-build, and 3) don't have the desire to sign up for more hours having the boat vibrate like an overloaded washing machine while my wife and kids try to shout back and forth.

I guess I'm thinking that I could just replace the rear seal, but then I wouldn't be surprised if something else went snap, crackle, or pop, leading to more repair bills. End of the day, it's money out of the pocket for worries out of mind.
 
Matt is on the MONEY! Unless your boat doesn't leave the dock, it needs good sails, rigging, and a reliable motor and transmission. Old boats, like old cars, can often be a money pit.
 
"You pay's your money, you takes your choice" as the saying goes, Matt.

If I farmed out all the big projects on my 383 I'd have $100K in a $40K boat (engine, bottom,repaint). There in lies the (my) dilemma!

Back to Perkins: The key in my mind to a successful rebuild is the machinist. Too often they don't open the Svc. manual. For example, new liners spec to stand .025" proud of the block height. A machine shop might fly cut it flat. Blown head gaskets and overheating result. SO - I have to find someone who's an expert on 4-108's.

To Jose's point, Trans Atlantic Diesel would be the place to go. (the other P dealer is a reputed scoundrel). I'd truck my engine to TAD for rebuild OR educate myself and a willing machinist on 4-108 pitfalls. (Incidentally, TAD HAD $3500 engine exchanges, not long ago).

John Wild cut the noise level dramatically with foam and paint. Jim Cleary cured his rear leak with a new piece of rope. So there are choices, that's all I'm saying.

Jim's point about old boats = money pits highlights the decision point we all face. The Morgan's a great old boat. But at some point (different for all of us) it makes sense to step away. Thank God my Perkins is still banging away. If I could just get the swim ladder and laz hatches to stop vibrating at 2300 rpm!
 
Yesterdays sail, passing a newer Hunter 38 in 18-24 knots of gusty shifty wind and that feeling we all get with these "old boats" just does not happen on other newer boats. We enjoyed watching our two friends C&C Corvettes go whizzing north in the blustery wind scooting along as if they were trying to leap free of the water.
We have been on many new boats these last couple of years, all with those fine modern accommodations that are fast boats.
But, we just never get that "special feeling" we get sailing our Morgan. We can afford a new boat but after sailing them for whatever reason " being older" "the good ole days mentality", "memories" etc. we still would spend the money to sail our Morgan 382...we can't buy that...get it fixed the way it make s you happy Matt. We just spent money for a new stove and I think it made the boat better. Ha ha!
18934.jpg
 
Dave -

I hear what you're saying about taking chances... but to save some $$ by overhauling the old engine instead of replacing it with a brand new one, with warranty, is (was) a tough choice. I've saved a fortune over the years by replacing the plumbing, re-wiring the boat, doing a lot of woodworking myself (anchor doors, cabin doors, hatchway step, aft-most lazarette, new instrument panel), manually stripping the bottom and putting on a new barrier coat, etc.

But again, re-building an engine takes specialized knowledge and skill-sets, and most importantly, TIME. Shipping the engine down to TAD is another option, but at the end of the day, I figured a new engine, with new instrumentation, better fuel efficieny and a quieter operation, was worth the extra $$.

If I were retired, I might consider doing it. But after looking through some manuals and texts on doing things like boring new cylinders, replacing heads, piston rods, etc, and reading the specs needed to be achieved, using specialized calibers, I'm opting for the simpler (albeit more expensive) option of swapping the engine. I don't think I'd be able to transport the engine to my garage in my Mini-Cooper, either (though it might be funny to try!)

Yanmar has a very strong reputation, parts are readily available, and it's roughly similar to the 4-108 in rating and layout. I will be hit with some unexpected surprises, no doubt, but I fully trust the mechanic to do a perfect job of re-powering - I've known him for years, and everyone who knows of him speaks very highly. He's got 40 years experience in marine diesels, and knows both the Perkins and Yanmar backwards and forwards.

It's my experience that each individual boat owner achieves his or her own level of comfort with what's appropriate for them. I've seen many a boat owner (usually powerboaters) fail to put life jackets, flares, or fire extinguishers aboard ("nothing to worry about, nothing bad will happen"), and I've seen 30 foot sailboats carrying radar, SSB, VHF, a 45 pound anchor and 200 feet of chain, and enough flares to simulate a large naval engagement.
 
I would hope the Coast Guard would board and cite those boaters that fail to carry required safety devices.

I agree with your choice and opinion.
 
Matt - I'm not questioning your decision by any means, you're doing what is right for Matt. A brand new modern Japanese engine will be a big asset for years. And rebuilding an engine can be full of potential pitfalls.

I'm still trying to figure out if any M-38 owner ever had a P104-8 succesfully rebuilt! Maybe I was subconsciously trying to talk you into going first!
Dave
 
Dave,
A good friend had his engine rebuilt about 15 years ago. The first outfit he hired botched the job badly. After two attempts ( including re-installations) he went to another outfit in Humble Texas, they did the job right. After 15 years and many miles(he has been cruising and living aboard all this time) the engine now is starting to leak, apart from that it has been running reliably.
I know of someone else that had an outfit in Florida rebuild the engine for $6500. To early to tell how well....

Pick a place that has done many rebuilds on this same engine if at all possible. You can always get a quote from TAD. And remember not all rebuilds are equal. Does the price include the injector pump? What about the heat exchanger? Also, damage found during disassembly can add to the original quote (crankshaft comes to mind).

Food for thought....
 
Jo,
Sherry at TAD says they'll go to 10,000 hrs if taken care of. Trouble is I'm not the first owner! The hr meter in the tach is TU, and the hour meter in the panel stopped at 3600 hrs...I bought the boat anyway.

So 4000 hrs now +/-..... or does it?
The good news is, I don't need a rebuild. No oil consumption, starts easy, no smoke. Yes it drips a bit.

I'd like to do the ICW & the Bahamas.
There's an easy 1000-1500hrs. Looking to the future....Rebuild?
Before /after / or worse, during???
 
The engine on my boat (Sno Virgin) was rebuilt in 2001. I was in Ft. Myers , Florida at the time and a local Marine engine business rebuilt it. Basically rebuilt the block , using my existing cooling system and injector pump, starter, alternator, transmission, etc. I totally disconnected the engine and moved it in position for the company to remove it from the boat and haul it to their shop. After rebuild, they put it back on the boat and on the engine mounts. I took it from there. Also included were a new engine fresh water pump, new raw water pump and a new damper plate. Total cost was just over $ 6000.00. Mind you this was in 2001. Since that time I have put a little over 2200 hours on the engine. Still runs well, almost no oil consumption, have a small oil leak at the rear of the engine, and have had to put in a new front oil seal. Also, 10 of the past 12 years I have been full time in the Western Caribbean and have had 2 injector pump failures. Wish I could figure out what is causing that.
 
Did you forget the purchasing of a new engine option Dave? That is good option concidering the age, parts availability, and weight of the Perkins.

I believe that is why you see so many people purchasing new cars. The decision, as I see it, is between rebuilding a 30 year old engine or purchasing a modern lighter, and perhaps with more HP, diesel. Again, Matt probably said it better.
 
Just a little background on the above. I had cleared out of Maria La Gorda in Cuba, and motor sailing to Isla Mujeres, Mexico in January 2001. In one of my periodic checks on the engine I noticed oil all over the place in the engine compartment. The crankcase was being over pressured because of the hole in the piston (I obviously didn't know this at the time). I just knew I had a problem. Used the engine as little as possible and finally got to Isla Mujeres. I checked with some mechanics there about fixing the problem, but finally decided to go back to Ft. Myers, FL . Had lots of oil on board and used the engine only when absolutel necessary.
 
Jim, no didn't forget new. But at 3+ times the cost of a rebuilt engine it gives me pause.

The median value of M-38's at age 30+/- appears to be in the $40's. While a new engine puts the value at the high end of the scale, its cost is irretrievable in my opinion. Yacht World has M-38's from $74K (new engines) to $25K. Were I a buyer where would I look for value??? I can buy a 90's Beneteau Oceanus for the high end M-38 money.

My gut says a rebuilt engine will give me the years of use I want AND allow me to get my money out of the boat (almost).

The decision in my mind depends on how long one will keep the boat, one's cruising plans and how much you love your M-38.

This has been an interesting (and thought provoking) discussion!
 
<div>I had an interesting conversation with Sherry Moon at TAD (trans atlantic diesel, in Virginia) today. I gleaned some info you might find interesting.

She suggested I take a compression test of my engine. Sherry's tips: It should be 300+psi. 400 is ideal.

4-108's will go 7-10,000 hours IF taken care of. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it"

After TAD's service manager retired (after 40 yrs) TAD stopped offering rebuilt 4-108 engines. They are just trying to keep up with "newer" engine repairs. (electronic modern engines???)

There are NO Perkins 4-108 parts that cannot be sourced from either Perkins or aftermarket. Supply of 4-108 parts is NOT an issue! TAD's plan is to continue to support 4-108's.

Where a particular is not available, it typically was superceded by Perkins to something else. TAD has a supply of used items, for almost any contingency.

TAD offers individual rebuilt components on an ala' carte /exchange basis. The menu is attached.

Injectors with new tips are stocked. CAV high pressure pumps are sent to a specialist with a long relationship with TAD. Sold on an exchange basis.

So I just offer this info FWIW. Not an endorsement of TAD. Its good to know parts are available!


View attachment TAD_Rebuilding_Your_4_108M_Perkins-18937.pdf

TAD Rebuilding Your 4.108M Perkins.pdf
</div>
 
My 2 cents ,
if you kick the tires on a m 38 you will hurt your foot !
On a Beneteau Oceanus your liable to do glass damage !
Old school style Ted Brewer verses the French Clorox bottles.
I just need more boat under me if the waves get high .. Lee
 
Preaching to the choir, Lee.
I was looking for more room a few years ago. Seriously looked at a Catalina 42. Decided to keep the M-38. Bulwarks, higher lifelines, secure (but small) cockpit, better build quality, real wood etc, etc. I could get my bicycles on board though.

Talking about when I go to sell my M-38: are today's buyers savvy enough to know that the Bendy floating condo isn't what they want??? Or need... if they plan to sail.
 
A wide floating condo , open floor plan
All white inside so it looks larger, with pretty
Curtains.
The non sailing women get more than 50% vote ! On boat choice !?
European look , that's for kitchen cabinets !
God blesses the men and women who really sail

Not like I'm shy ..........Lee
 
My additional 2 cents: Just how many sailboats old or new, go offshore or simply used as floating "condos"? If you are looking far strong off shore sailboat, the Morgan 38 series is a good choice, but certainly the modern sailboats are more "wife" friendly for inland waters. It all depends on what your goals are, and what the wife likes.
 
Dave,
TAD is a gtrat place to go for parts if you go the rebuild route.
Don't go to the F place unless you like being F'd. I know of at least two folks that have had bad dealings with F.
 
And find a good recommended mechanic and machine shop wherever you live! All are extremely important in rebuilding a motor or trans.
 
Just read all the posts and had a good laugh. Here is the simple fact; Good sailboats are really, really hard to find. Because they are not of the new breed. A new wife is easy to find.
 
A question; a new boat might be easier to find? A boat is 2nd on the list compared to a spouse, a wife's is still 90% of the decision, at least in my house! Input?
 
If Momma ain't happy, ain't nobody happy!
Truer words, never spoken, Jim!

Jose - message understood. I was aware already. I just like to read the Dr. Diesel tips. I vote with my dollars, and I do not vote there!
D
 
Larry is right on !
Me , I'm the captain , I get 75% vote !
How do you vote on something as important as a sailboat by the looks of the cabin.?
I do wish the M 384 had more storage !
We shall see in 30 years if the new breed of boats stand the test of time..I think not !!!! Here In Florida Old man Hunter would turn over in his grave if he could see what his kids have done to Hunter and design..
35 years ago a 38 Hunter was quite a sailors boat !.....................Lee
 
FYI...The previous owner of SlowDance (Papeche) re powered. He had the original yanmar. He said he got a pretty good deal on the engine ( I have yet to see any others) he put in which is a 40 hp Nanni, which is a Kubota engine. It's setup is very similar to the Beta, everything is easy to get to from the front of the engine. The only thing that requires quarter berth access is transmission fluid checking. Most parts are sourced from any Kubota tractor dealer. I've contacted Waterway power center a couple of times and they have been more than willing and knowledgeable to help me out. Even though I didn't buy it directly, they are still very willing to give support. I've taken it from Annapolis to Florida, then roundtrip to the Bahamas, not a single problem, but it only has about 500 hours on it.

Not persuading anyone, do what you need to do, just offering my experience. That's what makes this board great!
 
My mechanic, who helps keep the Perkins chugging, also thinks highly of Kubotas and the Beta marinization. There are several good engines on the market now, but nothing is cheap. but then, losing an engine at a critical moment can prove expensive or dangerous, as well.
 
Another data point:
Though not a Morgan 38, I helped a friend sail his Freedom 40 cat-ketch to the Azores from Connecticut this summer. I flew home and the boat continued on to the UK.

The boat was originally powered by a Perkins 4-108. He decided to repower it before our departure and installed a Beta 38 (BV1505). The Beta 43 is considered to be a replacement for the Perkins 4-108. The 38 is about 160 lb lighter and smaller than the 43. There was some concern that we might be underpowered. That was not the case.

We motored a lot (168 hours over our 17-day passage) given the location of the Azores High. The engine performed well - capable of pushing the heavy 35,000 lb boat at over 7 knots with much less noise and vibration than the Perkins. Much of the time we motored at low RPM or motor-sailed at about 1200 - 1500 rpm to conserve fuel. We burned about 105 gallons. The Perkins rarely revs high enough (4000 RPM) to deliver its rated 50 HP.

The engine itself was moderately priced. Installation was expensive. My friend had the boat trucked to Connecticut to have the repowering done by the "number one Beta Marine Dealer". There were lots of delays, some issues, and things that had to be corrected. Unfortunately that is probably typical.

My friend's decision to replace the Perkins with a new engine was based on several factors - His Perkins had some age on it, he had had overheating issues, transmission problems, and was concerned about reliability. The Perkins would not pass EU emission standards - required to register the boat in the UK and/or to sell it in the EU. The lighter weight, smaller size, easy service, improved fuel consumption, and lower noise and vibration were definite pluses.

As we've all said, we each make our choices and pay our money...
 
Thanks for the useful additional information. Can someone remind me the size of the original Yanmar? 33 hp? I am sure Brewer commented at some point that that provided plenty of power for these boats and I have heard complaints from the Yanmar owners..
 
This chat is an interesting read. I have the original Perkins 4-108. I have owned Southerly since 1987. She is a 1979 boat. We power more than most, and do 125 to 200 hours per year. Long trips, no wind during July and August. We get most of our sailing in during May, June, September, and October.
We have the original 3 blade 16X11 prop. At cruising RPM we move through the water at 6.4 knots. We can rev-up and do 7.8 knots.
Through the years I have replaced the water pump once. Replaced engine mounts once. And replaced the rear oil seal.
The engine oil and filter are changed every 50 to 100 hours. Average is two to three times a season.
Various boat owners who have been out with me have commented on how quiet and smooth the engine runs. We burn between 3/4's to a gal of fuel per hour, depending on the RPM. Sometimes I will run above cruising RPM for an hour or two.
I have no complaints. And that is what makes this chat an interesting read. I guess it boils down to, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. But if it is broke you really need to find out why. And fix it.
Reading the various group writings through out the years has proved to me that while we all own the same boat, somehow they are really different from each other.
 
I have the same experience as you with the Perkins. It hums--but quite loudly. I run it at 1900 to 2000 rpm to get 6 knots and don't like the noise above that speed. My son and I are thinking about going voyaging in a couple of years and yes, I would love to have a new, more sophisticated and quieter engine. But this one starts and runs so well. . . .
 
Going back to the top of the thread--Matt, I'm interested in some parts of your 4-108 if they are available now. Is it a "New" 4-108M? If so, please email me: ken at clickbert dot com.
Thanks
 
<div>Not to drag up the "rebuild or replace" the Perkins again....(but I will). I've been surfing the sailing forums looking for stories about those who have chosen to rebuild. I found this invoice from a diesel supply & machine.

The story goes that the sailor from Virgina sent it to Syracuse to have it rebuilt with OEM Perkins kit. It was the best pricing for kit & machining he found.

The coincidence is that its 30 minutes from where I live!
View attachment Perkins_rebuild_invoice-19094.pdf

Perkins rebuild invoice.PDF


Now if I just had a spare 4-108.... Murphy's law tells me to leave my good running engine alone!</div>
 
Ok. you have a rebuilt short block, now you need to re-build the injector pump, put a new fresh water pump, and rebuild the transmission. It still might come up to a good deal, but there is no such thing as a free lunch.
 
Jose,
You know better than me, replacement is not an inexpensive solution. This thread started IIRC, with a mechanic urging engine replacement due to a dwindling parts availability. Was he buttering his own bread? Oil coolers, heat exch, water pump are all available new if needed. The CAV pump & injectors can be commercially rebuilt anywhere. One can no longer buy injector lines (and other parts) but many used parts are widely available.


Ultimately it comes down to an individual's decision. I maintain that for some of us, rebuilding is a viable solution. A quality machine shop who has familiarity with 4-108 rebuilding and educating one's self in 108 pitfalls is key, IMHO.

I don't disagree with going with a new engine. But I believe rebuilding is still viable. Thats my point. I see a big $ delta in the two strategies. To each their own!
 
When my trans started slipping , I looked at a company that would guarantee a repair
for 3/4 the money and 90 days !
It just made no sense even though i loved the idea of spending less money.
I called''Foley and 3 days later the new trans was UPSed on my porch !
The old one lasted 30 years so I'm good for another 30 now !
I just hate fixing things twice. !!
 
I agree Lee, going with a new engine provides, less weight, a warranty, piece of mind, sometimes less noise, better parts availability, perhaps more power, but a bigger dent in the checkbook. But the cost can be reduced when you figure parting out the old engine or tyranny for $$$s.
Jim
 
Just an update to this thread. I have finally placed the new engine in the boat and in the process of figuring out where to mark the motor mount mounting holes.
Here is a picture of the engine in the engine room. Sure looks small....
19126.jpg
 
You may have to move the lead ingots from the front to the back Jose!
What Volvo are you installing?
Dave
 
Looks very compact.
Specs are interesting. Low noise, low emmissions, and 115 Amp alternator with high output at low rpm are great. Big peak in torque curve at 1900 rpm.
 
I have a friend who had a 40 ft cat with two Volvo's the simular to the one Jim posted.
To get to the zinc his diver had to remove the props ! And after 4 years the foot was all pitted.
I would think the part below the water would be Stainless steel with all that the money, NOPE ! He spent 2 years in the Caribbean , sold the boat moved back to Bolder Col . !
Now I'm a Volvo lover have one in my Sabre Md7A 30 years old and still going strong..
 
Not a fan of sail drives. I think boat builders like the simplicity of saildrives - no shaft alignment,water intake thru lower unit, just cut a big hole. I agree that large aluminum lower unit and big rubber seal look like maintenance issues. Fortunately, you can get the same engine with a standard transmission that works with a prop shaft.
 
Jose - I can't tell from the picture - did you put in a sail drive? I'm with Alan on that one... and besides the issues with aluminum lower unit and rubber seal, you also are putting a hole in the hull where it's shaped like a V, and right in front of the skeg. That might make steering harder/less responsive.
 
I did not put in a sail drive, the engine comes with three different configurations.
Sail drive, straight output transmission, and angled output transmission. I chose the angled output transmission, this placed the engine on an horizontal plane.
 
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