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Newfound Metal Portlight Template?

P

phboujon

Philippe Boujon
Hi All,

I have NFM portlights that are about 10 to 15 years old.

Since they had problems - epoxy seal broke, water got in, they rusted on the inside, and one lock broke - I refurbished them all.

https://plus.google.com/photos/1063...19992755505?banner=pwa&authkey=CJbG4o73_aOkDQ

Anyway, I have been trying to either get a cutting/drilling template template from NFM or instructions on how to make one, but without luck. Their new website doesn't provide those instructions, and emailing them several times has not helped either.

So, I was wondering if anyone has such instructions in your files?

Thanks in advance
Philippe
 
I have only great things to say about new found metals NFM .
about 4years ago i put one in and needed help. so I called the owner is the designer, he bent over backwards to give me the advice and understand the correct method to re align them..
I would suggest calling them . Lee Nicholas
 
Hi Philippe
I finally got professional help last year to install NFM ports I had purchased 4 years earlier. I have a file full of instructions from them and other websites. This website better info, instructions, tips and photos than factory instructions. beveling holes to allow butyl to fill around each bolt is great idea. http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/nfm_port_lights&page=1
I can share some of the challenges we faced installing ours. Biggest issue is inside and outside surface of cabin are not parallel.
I also have the template. I planned to return it to get my deposit back but they said they changed the design of the new ports and the old template doesn't match so it is of little value.
Let me know if you are interested in the template or other info.
-Alan
 
Hi Alan, if you have the old design template I would definitely be interested. NFM cannot find it (they also couldn't find more than 2 old locks). Apparently they don't keep parts for old design and cannot manufacture them anymore... So we better take care of them.

I talked to NFM several times on the phone Lee, and while they are understanding of my problems they couldn't help much since they shifted to the new design, which is frustrating.

Thanks for the site for the installations instructions. So if the inside and outside aren't parallel... Is the sealant taking that space?
 
Hi Philippe:
I will send it to you. Send me your mailing address. Acshedd at Mindspring dot com
Outside is not parallel to inside - cabin thickness is greater at top than bottom. Difference varies but generally about 1/4 inch. In some cases difference is due to thickness of layup, in others, the space between the inner and outer layers varies (There is a hollow space between outside of cabin wall and inside wall.
You could fill this hollow at the port but it doesn't matter much since seal is between port and exterior surface. The hollow space can cause some problems as you tighten the bolts - you can end up distorting the cabin sides as you compress the gap.
Biggest problem is that because the outside and inside frames are not parallel, the bolts that go from the inside frame thru the wall and thread into the blind nuts will not align properly.
It is hard to get the bolt started unless the frames are first made parallel to get the bolts started then seat them in the openings and tighten the bolts in stages, it could bend the bolts. It is also difficult to cut the bolts to the right length. The blind nut on the inside of the outer frame only allows for about 1/4 inch of adjustment. If you compress the cabin walls, the bolt will bottom out and the frame won't be tight.
I hope this makes sense.
 
Hey Alan,

Thanks, that explains a lot. The inside cabin teak was compressed already when I removed the port lights, maybe as much as 1/16 to 1/8. I already filled the hollow between the teak and fiberglass by thick epoxy, but never thought about the difference in thickness between top and bottom.

So, did you do anything to remedy to that, like putting a soft wood spacer on the inside that would be compressed, or is it simply a matter of being very precise and careful?

I'll send you my address by email. Thanks again!
 
Use Butyle tape any RV store has it by the pool cheep.. never a leak thru butyle !
I remember i went to ace hardware at the time i was putting my NFM hatch. I purchased 1/2 inch longer to bring in all into line before switching out to the shorter ones they gave me I think one bolt still is the longer kind.. slowly screwed all into place even pressure.. Lee
 
Phillip, I ran into a similar situation as Alan with the inside liner compressing. I wound up cutting all the bolts to length as required. The head and 1/4 berth ports displayed the most liner deflection. In retrospect, I think a couple wood spacers to prevent that compression might have been the ticket. I was able to back off the screws after they bottomed. That is the beauty of butyl...no leaks!
Dave
 
Hi Dave,

Thanks for the tip. I think that's where I am headed for now, placing a thin wood spacer under the inside frame. I'll let the board know how it goes when I am done.

Philippe
 
I have seen plastic spacers in teak color at Home Depot , the kind you put door frames in with ..They used to be made of pine . I purchased a pack to keep around the boat . They don't eat of drink and don't get wet !
Just in my junk drawer.. lee
 
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