Morgan 384 cutlas bearing repair

[chawakee]

<div>I have just(10-99) purchased a 1983 384 Morgan.(Am I lucky)
The cutlas bearing needs to be replaced. The boat yard thinks
that the rudder needs to be removed. I read in the owners
manual that there is a coupling that can be removed and move the
shaft forward. Is this the correct way to replace this bearing?Any other tips would be welcome. This is our first crusing boat.Thank you
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[cavale]

John
This coming spring will be the second time, in 13 years, I'll be changing the cutlass bearing on my 1978 382. To do the job the rudder was dropped out of the boat and the shaft with the prop pulled straight out. To do that I had to get permission from my boatyard to dig a 1 1/2' hole under the rudder. Once the rudder was down and the shaft out, I found that the cutlass bearing was not locked into the hull with set screws. The outer surface of the bearing was knurlled (the prop shop charged my $5 to knurl the new bearing)and simply chaulked into place. About 3/8" of the bearing protruded from the hull enabling a large pair of channellocks to grip and twist the bearing free. I don't think removing the shaft coupling will be enough because the cutlass bearing is 5" long and to get that much distance for it to clear the rudder you would have to move the engine forward off it's mounts. Easier to drop the rudder. The lower support on the rudder is a 2 piece bronze fitting held together with 2 bolts. Open that and remove the steering quadrant and she should slide right out. Hope this helps you out. let me know if I can help more. Jim.

 

[corsaire]

<div>Jim,When you state the technique for dropping your rudder, how far off the ground is the rudder to start with. My boat is in a cradle and is at least 1 1/2' above the ground. Would this be enough clearance? My boat yard is paved so digging a hole is not an option.
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[cavale]

<div>Alan
The rudder has to drop far enough for the rudder post to exit the boat. I didn't take the exact measurment at the time but it is in the range of two feet total. My yard didn't mind me digging the hole but said that they would have held the boat in the slings while I dropped the rudder as she came out of the water. Then they would hold me again in the spring as I reinstalled it. That might be an option in a yard with a paved surface. Another is to have them block the boat up high enough to do the job. That would make it a hassle to to other maintainance on the hull. When I drop the rudder again, I'll take measurements and take pictures to post on the board.Jim
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[dgh462]

In the archives there is a long string regarding this topic of cutlass bearing replacement. I have a 1979 382 with P-108 engine, replaced the bearing by removing the shaft coupler aft of the tranny, the shaft will move forward just enough to allow removal of the prop (with careful maneuvering, ya gotta get it just right) and cutlass bearing without dropping the rudder which is a pain to do!
Check the archives for others that have also performed this proceedure.
Good luck and (Jim) beam reaches
Fred

 

[aurora2]

It also depends on if you have a 5 or 6 ft. draught vessel.

 

[cfnava]

I replace the cutlass on my 1984 M384 this past spring without dropping the rudder. The coupler needs to come out and I believe the flange needs to come off the shaft. It depends on the length of the shaft as to how much space you have to work with. Dropping the rudder is a royal PITA; I have been there.

 

[capnrichard]

John, I own a 1983 M384 hull # 9. What hull # did you get.
It's a wonderful boat. I replaced my cutlas bearing and had to take off the rudder. Even after removing the coupling I was still a 1/4" shy of getting off the 3 blade prop. While I had it all apart I removed the drive shaft and had 3/4" cut off so next time around I should be able to remove the prop and then the cutlas bearing. It would certainly be worth trying the coupling route 1st, you might have the 1/4" that I didn't. Good luck and enjoy the boat.