M383/4 hull to deck joint

[loyd]

I am not yet a M38 owner, but am getting close. I think this BB is wonderful and very informative. I have yet to see a discussion on the integrity of the M382/3/4 hull to deck joint. Can anyone enlighten me on the quality of this area of construction?

 

[aistqm]

The deck is first glued to the hull with 3M 5200. It is then fastned by screws on 4 inch centers. The teak toe rail in then screwed on. It is also screwed on 4 inch centers between the previous screws except where there is a genoa track. It is through bolted at the track area. That equates to 2 inch centers. Many sailors would prefer through bolting through out, but 5200 has proven to be a good product. It is as strong (or nearly so) of a bond as the bonding in the glass laminant. I have not heard of any failures or problems with the hull deck joint on the Brewer 38s.

 

[jhudnut]

I have no leaks on my 1980 382.

 

[balthazor]

Yes, it is screwed, not bolted, which all the literature says is a drawback because not sufficiently strong. The genoa track is bolted, but not all my bolts go through both the hull and deck laminate, because of its position on the cap rail. I heard that Morgan put resin and mat between the hull and deck joint, but mine appears to be something else--I hope it is 5200. From what I have read, the lack of through bolts is a weakness, but one I decided to live with. The Alberg 37s and Whitby 42s were riveted--not much better than screws, and they are considered stout boats. My rail does not leak, as far as I can tell. I suppose with lots of work one could take the cap rail off and put in through bolts. I once saw an Allied Luders design, I think it was, whose foredeck had peeled up in heavy going. Everything is a compromise.

 

[loyd]

Thanks to Jay and Terry for the technical info on my question. I'll keep looking for any serious drawbacks to this type of joint.