• Welcome to this website/forum for people interested in the Morgan 38 Sailboat. Many of our members are 'owners' of Morgan 38s, but you don't need to be an owner to Register/Join.

leaking fuel injection pump perkins 4-108

moltzvt

David Moulton
I wanted to pass on this info as I was not able to find a lot of detail in the places I looked. The problem of a leaking injection pump must be common on Morgans with the 4108 after what I found. Most suggested replacing the entire pump, I think in the short term I saved some $. The leak was obviously from the top of the pump in what is described as the anti-stall device. There are two 16 point 1/4" socket head bolts with safety wire running through them. A fuel injection pump seal kit item # 7135-14 from Trans Atlantic diesel cost me 48.00 plus shipping. The coolant tank the manifold has to come off, drain the coolant first on the port side rear there is a valve and drain hose on my Perkins. The manifold comes off fairly easy, be advised this is a good time to change the thermostat if needed as its located under the coolant tank. Remove the linkage for the throttle setting and the fuel shut off lever, both are contained in this anti-stall housing. Remove the two bolts previously mentioned, try not to change the setting on the topmost screw that should be secure with the locking nut. Now the housing should lift straight off, might require a little jiggling to remove the throttle rod from the injector pump. Keep the area clean or clean prior to removing. Suggest fitting a section of rag into the opening to keep debris out after removal. The two long bolts holding the housing to the pump are also the retainers for both the throttle shaft the fuel shut off shaft. Once removed the shafts can be pulled from the housing. Now clean and replace the o-rings on the shafts. You will have to go through the kit and find the matching o-rings so try and keep them intact when removing for sizing. Now remove the top adjusting bolt assembly, here is where I found the most weathered o-ring, clean and replace the o-ring, reassemble. I used some light oil when reinstalling the shafts to aid getting the new o-rings into the housing. Be advised, there are slots on the shafts where the bolts fit in the housing, no o-rings get installed on these slots. There is a new gasket for this housing, ensure the surfaces are clean and install with the new gaskets. There are new seals for both assembly bolts, don't over tighten. I did not have any specs on the torque value but it was obvious these seals would be crushed if assembled too tight. I snugged up until I could no longer move the housing to pump. There is safety wire in the seal kit to secure these bolts so vibration will not back them out.
I will attach photos, new to getting this right so bear with me. I had total success, no longer dripping and nasty fuel odor is gone.IMG_7122.JPG IMG_7124.JPG IMG_7132.JPG IMG_7133 (1).JPG
 
Is yours leaking? I was getting a cup or less in an hour of run time. Below the engine it drips on the port side about 2/3 the way back. Its hard to make out where its coming from until you clean and de-grease the area well then run the engine. How are you making out with your transmission, if you do replace it I would love to disassemble and inspect the old one. Looks like I will be on the water all through the week of the 4th, let me know if your in, love to catch up.
 
Is yours leaking? I was getting a cup or less in an hour of run time. Below the engine it drips on the port side about 2/3 the way back. Its hard to make out where its coming from until you clean and de-grease the area well then run the engine. How are you making out with your transmission, if you do replace it I would love to disassemble and inspect the old one. Looks like I will be on the water all through the week of the 4th, let me know if your in, love to catch up.
Thanks Dave
I was referring to the tranny. We don't think it's the cutlass bearing. Otherwise there would probably be a whole lot of shakin going on. That sound and corresponding slipping of the gear only happens running for an hour or more on a hot day. It's tough to get it to happen on purpose. It happens at the very moment of course when you least want it to. Atlantic Desiel suggested trying synthetic trans oil. We did. The smelly stuff! No change. We just try to run under 18-1600 rpm till we get a chance to have you look at it. There's a rebuilt tranny here available for us but we wanted to be sure that's what it is. The yard says they would know unless they take it out and inspect...of course too much $$.
 
The hour meter is showing 1800 and given the records I have found with the boat I believe this correct. I think age more than hours is what caused the dried out and weathered o-rings. It was likely only the seal or o-ring on the very top adjusting bolt as shown in this photo with the seal removed from the groove next to my fingers. The part is shown upside down, the seal mates with the housing. The two gaskets for the assembly bolts were also badly weathered. Namaste' spent some time on the hard, so this may have added to dry cracking. Only fuel additive I have used is to prevent bacteria/algae growth.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_7128.JPG
    IMG_7128.JPG
    699.7 KB · Views: 11
John, Your condition sounds a bit like something I experienced my first season with Namaste'. During hot weather motoring above 2300 RPM I was below when I heard the transmission slip, RPM increased and the speed of the boat started to decrease. The only difference is I had no transmission noise. Stopped slipping as soon as I dropped rpm's. I serviced the oil, some type of automatic transmission fluid as I recall, and now I rarely operate over 2000 RPM and never slipped again. That was two seasons ago, I have a feeling I am operating on borrowed time, I will continue to baby her for now with the knowledge I need to replace at some point.
 
John, Your condition sounds a bit like something I experienced my first season with Namaste'. During hot weather motoring above 2300 RPM I was below when I heard the transmission slip, RPM increased and the speed of the boat started to decrease. The only difference is I had no transmission noise. Stopped slipping as soon as I dropped rpm's. I serviced the oil, some type of automatic transmission fluid as I recall, and now I rarely operate over 2000 RPM and never slipped again. That was two seasons ago, I have a feeling I am operating on borrowed time, I will continue to baby her for now with the knowledge I need to replace at some point.
Thanks Dave...nice write up with your pictures...really appreciate the time you took to post. Good reference material.
 
It should make it easier for the next guy, and lots of what I find here makes projects easier for me.
 
YUP just had the injection pump removed and rebuilt The rebuild was 1100 the removal and re install was 750 ! Better not leak now.!
 
Back
Top