Warren, I finally bit the bullet with regard to the lid on the stern lazzarette. I made a lip made of 3/8" aluminum angle welded on the corners which was bolted on, in sealant, around the opening, with tiny bolts. I made a mold and fabricated a new fiberglass lid which fit over and to the outside of the angle lip. I Kiwi gripped the surface and it looks terrific. I have not gasketed the lid yet but that will be simple procedure. The tolerances for the angle lip and the glass lid are fairly tight so if you are doing something similar measure closely. Also when applying the gelcoat to the mold I added 2 extra coats to all corners and vertical/horizontal interfaces - wish I had done a couple more as this is were the lid will get banged and abraded. I didnt record the layup schedule but I recall I incorporated an initial layer of mat being very careful to get into all corners and vertical/horizontal interfaces. I think I then applied a layer of 12 oz. biaxial cloth, a layer of mat and a final layer 12 oz. biaxial. On 1 layer of the biaxial I cut the corners so that I could overlap the 2 pieces for greater strength in that area. I also reinforced the top which will be stepped on with a piece of high quality 3/16" plywood - the type Home Depot sells for flooring underlay. This piece was generously feathered/tapered to eliminate stress and was sized so it sat approx, 1 1/2" away for all edges and covered with 1 layer of biaxial. As I recall the finished sides of the lid are about 1/8" thick and the corners about 3/16". The lid sits about
1 1/4" high is very strong with virtually no deflection when my 165 lbs. are on it. Some years prior I raised the floor of the locker by about 4 inches, which was about max I could go given the height of the propane bottles and the box that holds them. I did this project on the hard. First checking that the boat was level ( as level as a boat can ever be). I removed the box that holds the propane bottles. Then I filled plugged the drain hole and filled the locker with water up to about 1" away from where the bottom of the propane bottle box sits. I carefully marked this waterline with a sharpie then drained the water. Next I measured and made a cardboard template of the new floor. Once the template was a good snug fit I made a flat piece of fiberglass sheet and then cut it to match the template and thoroughly tabbed it in place such that there would be no leakage into the void below. I then drilled a new drain hole. The end result, with the drain hole raised approx. 4" vertically, was that the drain hole still goes underwater somewhat when motoring/motorsailing but not nearly as bad (I was somewhat pissed off it wasn't dry !). No pictures available as I'm up home in Canada still wrestling with the Covid mess while my boat rests in Florida. BTW I still have the mold I made for the lid.
Cheers Bob McDonald