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I've decided on a 383/384

J

JRB1

New Member
Hi,

I'm new to sailing (one season of experience) but, after a lot of research and speaking with folks I trust who have been long time sailors I've decided that I'll limit my search to a Morgan 383, or 384. So, my question for you Morgan owners is... What are the few key questions I should be asking about regarding these boats? What are the specific things I should be looking out for? Thanks in advance for any of your thoughts.
 
i am one year into ownership of a 384. survey revealed moisture levels in the deck around the flanges. look for moisture penetrations around the portholes. members of this forum were good enough to point out another possible problem: the holding tank that morgan built into the keel was prone to leak. that required finding a location (under the port settee) for a new holding tank as part of replacing the head. additionally, the stem and the transom both had superficial cracks in the gel coat. the main disconnect for the shore power is buried under the rear seat: almost impossible to find, let alone use.
having said all that, the boat has good bones and is worth the money to correct these few problems. you will end up with a boat that will serve you well.
steve tompkins
 
Steve its Teak time as long as its cool ! I used to sail out of Haven Harbor Rock Hall , small world. WindRose 384 fla
 
ABYC allows 10 ft of unfused wire between the shore power inlet and an overcurrent protective device. When you decide to buy, ditch that "Square D" 30/2 circuit breaker, extend some new Anchor brand 10/3 cable from the inlet to the main panel or a new Blue Seas stand alone 30 amp GFI main breaker and then to the AC panel and rest easy.
 
I bought my 383 on October 25, 2012.... 5 years ago this month. A mistake I made that I didn't know to specify when it came to the surveyor: Be sure he is a SAILBOAT surveyor!!! While I told my surveyors I called what I was looking at, my guy told me AFTER he got there that he really didn't do any of the sailing rigging stuff... I was too far into it to stop the process...
Although none of the things I have since done to the boat were noted by my surveyor, the following are the things that I've since done to the boat, or have observed to replace/repair very soon after I bought the boat:
1. the Square D 30Amp breaker went bad (you have to be a contortionist to get into the helm seat hatch to reach the box to replace it!
2. the refrigeration quit
3. the forward freshwater tank leaks
4. the holding tank leaks (it is not a visible crack, it just oozes up out of the fiberglass of the tank's top where it tabs to the bilge wall... I have a video on Youtube that shows the leak taking place as I pumped the head when the tank is full); I have since had a tank made and put it under port settee and that issue is now resolved. I have a posting on the board here with exactly how I did my tank and plumbing... it works very well now; i sealed the old tank up and leave it empty...
5. port lights were brittle and leaky so I replaced with NFM stainless steel ports
6. the fixed ports over chart table and stove were crazed so I had dark tinted plexiglass made to replicate clear originals
7. mainsail while in great shape, I discovered really didn't fit the mast/boom (undersized) so I had a new sail made by North Sails; kept original main as a spare and the original Morgan main as a barely serviceable spare
8. Perkins diesel while strong running, has proven to be dirty, i.e. leaks oil around pan in rear and at front
9. exhaust, raw water intake, head, sink drain, etc... be sure to inspect all hoses... there are a lot of hoses in these boats and be sure to inspect them!
10. halyards and sheets... don't overlook inspecting all of them!
11. standing rigging... I didn't find out when mine were last replaced and a subsequent rigger checked them and said they are in good shape.. a gamble I took at purchase that I don't recommend!
12. Although I didn't do this, any owner worth his salt has maintenance records. Ask for to see them before making an offer. If they won't show them, then it's 'caveat emptor'... buyer beware....

I know i've done a lot of other things, including bimini, dodger frame and canvas upgrades, air conditioning, etc.... I hope this all helps or validates what you are already doing... Good luck and welcome to the board!!!
 
This one is esepecially important if you are at a dock or will be. The constant movement of the boat can cause intermittent shorting/jumping of the shore power. Our friends J40 completely burned in its slip because of this connector. Get it replaced.
John said
“1. the Square D 30Amp breaker went bad (you have to be a contortionist to get into the helm seat hatch to reach the box to replace it!”
 
John, I have two of those boxes, same location. They are rusty on the outside, I haven't opened them up to look at the inside but they work. I would like to replace them to avoid issues down the road. What kind of box and breaker should be used? Pardoned me if this has already been answered.
 
John,
I eliminated my breaker box but the run was too long to leave the inlet in the same location so I moved mine to the starboard side coaming under the winches. ABYC standards state the shore power inlet needs to be 10’ or less to a main breaker. I replaced with a smart plug.
 
john Gonzalez said:
John, I have two of those boxes, same location. They are rusty on the outside, I haven't opened them up to look at the inside but they work. I would like to replace them to avoid issues down the road. What kind of box and breaker should be used? Pardoned me if this has already been answered.
Click to expand...

John G, the exterior of my box had some surface rust but not all that bad and when I got inside it, it was not rusty at all.
 
Believe it or not, when I removed the teak hatch top, I was able to get inside the aft compartment, so I will likely leave it there since I can work on them inside the compartment. ( I found out I could get inside when I replaced my 3 vent fittings which by the way were cheap plastic). Keeping them there will keep them close to the power connection even though you make a good point John M. that moving it inside is still within the ABYC std. I was wondering though after I clean up the box if I should test the breakers to make sure they still work. Should I just replace them for preventive maintenance purposes? I'm sure they are not cheap.
 
John
You can be within ABYC 10' requirements by placing a new circuit breaker box at the aft end of the quarterberth. Place a plastic (PVC) junction box inside the coaming in the wheel locker where the 110V inlet fitting is located, then run the 3 #10AWG wires in a plastic seal tight conduit to a breaker box in the quarterberth. The original circuit breaker from the rusty Square D box should be suspect and be discarded. Circuit breakers have a shelf life in normal household conditions. In a marine environment that shelf life will be much reduced.

Jim
 
Plastic braker boxes are Home depot cheep and a 30 amp braker and maybe a spare. All good insurance to bring your boat up to todays standards. This whole deal cant be 75 dollars !
 
Yep, the Morgan 383 is a great boat. Sadly, I'm selling mine (downsizing to a 30'). She's in Sausalito, CA. If you, or somebody you know is looking for a 383, I can send details (Doug@dmahone.com).
 
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