Gudgeons revisited

[terry_thatcher]

A couple of years ago I tried to emulate Jim Cleary's use of UHMW around the rudder shaft. When I dropped the rudder this year, the self-adhesive had given way and the piece was floating around in the gudgeon space. Would it be better to put the material on the gudgeon faces or should I just try to wrap the post again? If Jim Cleary reads this, his advice on the process is especially sought. Thanks.

 

[Warren Holybee]

When I did mine, I included a tab that was squeezed between the gudgeon halves. I didn't use any adhesives. When I least hauled out it seemed to still be in place, although I didn't drop the rudder for a complete inspection. As you know, I have a lot of miles. I used HDPE from a milk jug.

 

[jimcleary]

Terry

When I did this project I used sticky backed UHMW from McMaster-Carr. It was stuck to the SS rudder shaft then the halves of the gudgeon were placed around and bolted. The purpose of the sticky back adhesive was only to hold the UHMW in place until the halves were closed. My rudder has not been lowered since. On visual inspection over the winter, the rudder remains tight in the gudgeon without any movement. The UHMW is not at all visible so I have to assume that, because there is no play in the rudder, the stuff is still doing the job. If your rudder has movement maybe you need to add a greater thickness of UHMW. I don't remember the numbers, but I know I filled the gap to within .02.

Jim

 

[terry_thatcher]

Maybe I don't need a UHMW shim. The shim I used, when removed, was 0.017. I must have started with 0.022, since that is what M-C sells. I am going to try a 0.012 shim this time. I just think it is a good idea to have something between the bronze and the stainless.

 

[jimcleary]

Terry

Tomorrow I'll try to find my notes with the measurements.

Jim

 

[david_buckley]

I fixed mine a over a decade ago and it has held well. I took it to a welder and had them braze the hole smaller then bore it out to spec. I have replaced the fasteners since then, galvanic gets em. Adding a bearing with a lip seal on the top of the post is a good upgrade over just the stuffing box the builder did. As built the top is wobbling around (because a stuffing box is not designed for side loads) so it wears out the lower bearing and will never make a proper seal at the stuffing box. I documeted my upper bearing/seal upgrade in a previous post last spring, and I happy to report that after a years testing and a Bahamas cruz the rudder is leak free for the first time in 44 years!

 

[terry_thatcher]

I having having a problem finding your post David. Did you use a Tides Marine fitting? I think John English did that, but I recall he felt a new rudder post pipe ( can't remember the proper name for that) was necessary. Did you just screw a top bearing onto the existing threads?

 

[jimcleary]

Terry
After searching all my workbooks and notes, I can't locate the actual measurements used for filling the gap between the rudder shaft and the gudgeon. Whatever the numbers were, I remember filling the gap to within 2 thousands of an inch. With the boat out of the water this winter, there was no play evident at the gudgeon.

Jim

 

[david_buckley]

I having having a problem finding your post David. Did you use a Tides Marine fitting? I think John English did that, but I recall he felt a new rudder post pipe ( can't remember the proper name for that) was necessary. Did you just screw a top bearing onto the existing threads?

Hey Terry,
Here is the bearing I had installed. They hammered the original bronze port out and glassed this in. It's a stout fiberglass tube that holds two bearings and two lip seals.
David

 

[terry_thatcher]

Very interesting. Was the original bronze fitting 12" long? Or does the new bearing you glassed in come up higher in the boat? Thanks.