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Delamination on a 382

tfrere

Thomas McNulty
Hey guys,
I was speaking to another member of this forum group about an issue with his boat. He was having a boat yard do a bottom job and had them grind off some blisters. The found serious delamination areas (mostly on the port side) and the boatyard owner said he was surprised it didn't sink over the years. They had to grind out about 1/4" of fiberglass in large areas and are hand laying the repair.
The boat is the same year as mine (1978) and now I'm worried that the manufacturing processes were sloppy at the time. Has anyone else experienced anything similar?
Tommy
 
Blisters are normal on an old boat. The boatyard was wrong in saying it would "sink". A lot of blisters never progress if proper maintenance is done, that is, freshening the bottom paint and fixing any minor or major blisters. If the blisters are extensive, perhaps a true blister job is needed. That goes for any old boat. If these blisters are only in one area, fix them and then monitor the bottom in the future with either a good diver or a yearly haulout. Remember, boat yards love to scare you into big $$$ fix its! If you are worried, bring in a good surveyor, one that is recommended by someone other than the yard.

My 2 cents. Good luck.
Jim
 
Tommy: There have been very few reports on this board of significant morgan blistering problems. If there were mayor construction problems, I believe we all would have heard about it over the last 15 years. I would not fret--just monitor, as Jim says. My boat is 33 years old. In the early 90s, the bottom paint was stripped and an epoxy barrier coat was applied. I have had no problem. Eventually, I will take the bottom paint off again and touch up or redo the barrier coat. Blistering happens more often in warm water, by the way. P.S. UPS says door should arrive tomorrow. thanks.
 
Thanks guys. I'm pulling the boat in a couple of weeks to do a bottom job and to install my Max-Prop. I'll let you know what I find.
Tommy
 
Tommy -

Good luck with the Max-Prop. I had a devil of a time getting my Vari-Prop on. You should replace the cutless bearing at the same time.
Regarding blisters, I sanded down the bottom of Shepherd's Star last winter, and found no evidence of any blisters. It was built in '79. Interesting to note, for 2 or 3 years before I got her, she sat in Boston Harbor without any maintanence being done on her. These boats are built strong and tough. Not fast, though!
The surveyor (for insurance purposes) said the hull was very dry, except for a moderate wet spot on the lower end of the skeg that protects the rudder. After sanding down to the bare fiberglass, I cleaned and wiped it, then put on 5 coats of Interlux Barrier Coat, alternating between white and grey. Then finished up with two coats of hard paint. When it got hauled three weeks ago, after a quick power wash, it looked great!
 
I contacted a previous owner and got the following email:

"Concerning your (our) boat, we had the bottom totally re-worked. That included peeling the gel coat, leaving the boat on the hard for 4 months with mild heat lamps on it to totally dry the exposed fiberglass and repairing some delamination that was taking place on the bow. That was the only place where we found any delamination. Following the drying out process and the repairs, the bottom was restored by building up multiple epoxy coats to take the place of the gel coat. It was an excellent process that was done by the yard in Mandeville. I doubt you will have any problems with the bottom."

Great news for me.
Tommy
 
Was the entire bottom done? If not, I would strip the fg and do an epoxy bottom job. Or you can wait for additional problems maybe.
Jim
 
Regarding reporting blisters on Morgan 382, here are pictures of my wife and I boat. We stopped counting the number of blisters after 200 (we were not particularly happy)... And yes, the boat had been protected with epoxy coating. However, either that coating failed, or the moisture was already in by the time it was done (no idea I didn't own the boat then).

When we opened the blisters, we also found numerous area where the fiberglass had tiny (1/8 inch) voids, some filled with moisture... baby blisters in development I guess

Some blisters were so deep that we had to do a repair from both the outside and inside. Those blisters were however only located in the holding tank area. We actually went through the holding tank in 3 areas, which then actually allowed us to reinforce it from the inside, then paint it with epoxy and barrier coating, then repair it. I believe the holding tank had kept water in (from a crack maybe through the bilge) for several years as the first time we went through, ~10 gallons came out.

The pictures are taken during the repair phase. After several months of drying out, we fiberglassed them with 1708, then faired them over.

Areas such as the skeg or keel were also reinforced with carbon fiber tape.

Final picture is after being painted.

I am not overly concerned about blisters, it's bound to happen on a fiberglass boat. We fixed them, and will keep on the lookout for more of them in the future (which we except to happen... even with the bottom epoxy coating)


18558.jpg


18559.jpg


18560.jpg


18561.jpg


18562.jpg
 
3rd picture? It's the skeg, above the propeller. It was cracked and delaminated on both sides. The hole is the dead fiberglass removed (blackish fg similar to a blister with a distinct smell... Anyone who dealt first hand with an oozy blister can't forget that smell!). Behind it was completely void, and there was cardboard in there.

We digged out the wet cardboard, and packed the hole with foam that cannot get mushy by moisture, and epoxy. We then closed the crack with fiberglass both inside and outside to create a physical plug, and reinforced it with carbon fiber before to fair over.
 
Philippe:
Did you sandblast the hull?
Looks like lots of work. What kind of barrier coat did you use?
We had a crack in the leading edge of the skeg. Search archives ("what's in your skeg"). We filled hollow cavity with expanding closed cell foam, then reinforced and glassed cracked area lapping fiberglass tape well back ion skeg sides.
 
No, i used a disc sander then a random orbit to smooth things out. Using a disc sander, it took me 6 weekends. Plus it really help find out blisters, as otherwise they were not visible.
The blisters were between the 1st layer of mat and 1st layer of rowing, although those on the keel were after the 2nd layer of mat, and as I said, we even went through to the holding tank in some. I believe the blistering was happening from both the inside and outside.

We used inter protect, 5 coats.
 
That brings up a good point. At what point is a blister a blister or a void a void. Is having a smooth surface on the bottom that "appears" to be solid but grinding into the glass finds voids with fluid still a blister? I guess the reason I ask the distinction is based on the issue with the void. If the void still leaves the structural integrity sound then is it a problem? If it is on the skin then I would suppose the problem it would present is that it can get scraped off and expose the raw glass to the water which could lead to structural delamination over time. Voids from layups may exist to some extent on most vessels.
 
Philippe
What is the history of your boat? Where was she kept, what kind of water, was she hauled each year, etc? I'm just wondering why some boat get blisters and others don't. We had Dana's bottom stripped and barrier coated two years ago and no blisters were evident.

Jim
 
In regards to the history of the boat:

It is hull #161, made in 1979. Based on the Abstract of Title I acquired when I bought the boat, it was owned by a corporation, which seemed to be a charter/rental business, for 7 years, until 1986. It was then owned privately, for 6 years, until 1992, then again privately, for 18 years, until 2010 when my wife and I bought it.

The previous private owners were Mr and Mrs Engel (I didn't know them) and Oscar Kramer (who many of you knew on this board). This is the "Calypso" that he owned.

The boat seems to have been kept in Florida waters for her entire life. I know for a fact that Oscar kept it in the water year long, but for periodic haul out for bottom painting, and would imagine it was the case for previous owners since it was in Florida.

Oscar had the boat sandblasted and barrier coated when he discovered ~ half a dozen blisters. I can confirm that since the gelcoat had sign of sandblasting and fairing over, and I found indeed half a dozen previously filled blisters. I do not know whether the barrier coating was done professionally or by Oscar, but nevertheless, it looked ok prior to us sanding it away. According to the log, it was done with a layer West System epoxy, then West System mixed with 422, and then another epoxy barrier coat on top.

--

In regards to the seriousness of the blisters/structural integrity, and whether they were blisters or voids/delaminations:

Our boat is next to the travel-lift, so we are very familiar with blisters by looking at all the boats coming in. The blisters on our Morgan were not round bubbles popping out with or without oozing coming out of it. The majority blisters were NOT apparent when the boat was pulled right out of the water.

Yes, we could see half a dozen on the keel (over the holding tank area), but we couldn't identify by sight any more than that. The surveyor pointed out the keel ones to me, and told me it wasn't a big deal, since he didn't see any more. He also did the usual tapping check around the bottom hull. The hull was deemed in good shape by the surveyor.

We first stripped the anti fouling paint with a special chemical (Star10) which allowed us NOT to smooth the bottom as one would when sanding the anti fouling paint off. We didn't chemically stripped because we planned to look for blisters, we did it because it was easier then sanding. Our plan then was to keep the old barrier coating, apply a couple coats of inter protect and move on. We decided however to open the apparent blisters on the keel.

After we grinded out the half of dozen keel blisters, and found that those were not superficial but very deep (between the 2nd mat layer and 3rd rowing layer - We actually went through to the holding with two of them), we got worried. We started to check for bumps on the old barrier coating by touch, not by sight. My wife was particularly good at this, and over time, on the 200 or so blisters found with this process, she was wrong (i.e. no void, no oozing smelly liquid) less than a dozen times.

When we then decided to sand the old barrier coating away, many more blisters became apparent. When passing the disc sander on an area, it often left a "fried egg" shape, i.e. a round fiberglass/mat looking center with white gelcoat around. This was the indication of a deep blister, where the very slight bump had the disc sander sanding more over it than around. Nearly 100% of times it was indeed a void with oozing liquid.

By the end of all this process, and while we didn't count anymore then (We were enough down on moral by then, on top of painting problems on the hull and deck), I can say for certainty there were more than 300 of them.

--

When and how did all that moisture seeped into the fiberglass?

It may have been prior to when Oscar had the boat sandblasted and barrier coated. It may have been through this barrier coating as well. I obviously cannot say.

However, it may also have been from the inside of the boat. If you look at the pictures, the biggest blisters and the greatest concentration are on the keel/holding tank area, and on the area underneath the engine, then aft of the engine (i.e. the start of the skeg), and the skeg itself. If you check inside the boat, all those areas are not protected by epoxy paint or gelcoat. It is just raw fiberglass. Yet, water tend to collect in those areas and remain there. Our holding tank was also full of water (and apparently was never ever used). Could moisture come from inside the boat instead of outside? Could that explain how deep were the blisters?

Finally, when grinding all those blisters, we found that the layering of the fiberglass contains hundreds of tiny (5mm and less) voids. Could those voids collect moisture and start becoming blisters? Is that normal in a boat fiberglass lay up? I do not know.

--

Were the blisters affecting the structural integrity of our boat?

I do not know for sure, but given how many there were on the areas mentioned above, I would argue that not much "good" area remained there.

Was the area of a given blister actually weakened?

In most cases, the liquid had eaten away the mat but the rowing was intact. So, you had 1 layer of mat, 1 of rowing, oozy liquid and dead mat, and another layer of rowing. Maybe it was strong enough... but then, why worry about delamination?

Maybe we over-reacted in grinded out all those blisters, but we feel good in thinking that all those delimitation areas are now replaced by strong layers of 1708 properly epoxied.

I do not mean to say that Morgan 382 have problematic bottoms. I believe all fiberglass boats will have blisters. I am not worried about our bottom (at least not anymore). I just want to highlight the fact that blisters may be difficult to find, especially in areas where moisture could seep in from the outside and the inside.

Cheers
Philippe
 
Philippe
I wonder if the boat living in the warm water for so long is the reason for the blisters? You and your wife have done a fantastic job on the boat. Probably a job that you didn't plan on having to do!

Jim
 
Phillipe: What a disappointment and what a job. I am so sorry for any of our members that have to deal with this. It surely emphasizes the flaws in early fiberglass work and the advantages, despite the expense, of epoxy building techniques and vacuum bagging. With vacuum bagging, you should see none of the voids. I have no doubt that the holding tank can contribute to blisters, given its design, and we have other members who have had some problems with the skeg, I believe. Just building in a warm, humid climate can encourage blistering unless great care is taken.(When I was looking for a boat, it seemed like every Cabo Rico I looked at--not a cheap boat--had or had had blistering.

I too have a barrier coat, that is about 15-20 years old, and I have multiple bottom paint layers that should come off, so I can redo the barrier coat and repaint. It is frightening to think of what one might find. My yard wants to sand off the bottom paint--for several thousands of dollars. they won't use chemicals. I have heard I should seek someone out that does soda blasting. I haven't decided what to do, but I am too old and lazy to do what all you accomplished. Amazing.
 
It's too bad your yard doesn't allow chemicals. In retrospect, it was the easiest part of all of it (although the glassing of the blisters wasn't that hard, just long).


18569.jpg



I can attest of http://www.starten.com products. We used their phase 1 paste to remove all the bottom paint. It left us with a dirty black sludge that we wiped off with heavy amount of sprayed xylene/mek mix and lots of rags. The picture below show the different phases, from having just removed the bottom paint at the front, to having wiped a few times at the back.


18570.jpg


Cheers
Philippe
 
These are very old fiber glass boats and very often a buyer does know the history of bottom work done. A good survey is a must! Of all the boats referenced here, I only remember one other with these issues. Everyone should take that into account. Besides, other boats from this era have had much worse issues. Any buyer, or owner, should take notice of the hull condition when hauled for bottom painting. Check for moisture content, sound the hull for voids, and do an epoxy job when recommended. Maintence should not be put off or you will pay a high price later. My 2 cents plus some.
Jim
 
Jim, as I pointed out, my surveyor didn't realize the extent of the blister/void/delamination (whatever one wants to call it) problem.

Was my surveyor not a good one? I don't think so. He was highly recommended by folks on cruiserforum and sailnet. His name is Ed Rowe, located in Vero Beach, Fl, and I believe he did a good job surveying the boat. I don't think he or any other would have been able to detect those blisters, without moisture measurements done when the boat had dried up on the hard.

I also had done my work, and knew the history of bottom work done on the boat prior to purchasing it. I knew the boat had had a few blisters, and I knew it still had a few to be taken care of. I was however not knowledgeable that blisters could be so deep. My innocent view of blisters was of the many boats I saw in yards and pictures online where the blisters are in the upper layers of the fiberglass.

Is my boat, hull #161, the only Morgan 382 (or other boats from this era) with so many blisters? I am sure not. There are 3 other Morgan 382 on the hard in my yard, and I am certain, having run my hands over the bottom of those boats that they have some deep blisters.

Of course, for those of you who have owned their boat since the start of its life, I am sure you have taken care of the bottom rightly, replacing the epoxy bottom coating every so often, and therefore you are confident in the bottom. But for many of us, we will be the 4th or so owner, the entire history of our boats can not always be known that well. Plus, how many owners actually go to the extent of stripping the anti fouling and epoxy coating entirely to renew it fully?

I agree with you however that maintenance shouldn't be put off. Te next time one of you strip the anti fouling paint of the bottom, take a day and run your hands slowly on the cleaned bottom. Don't let your sight fool you. Hopefully, you didn't strip the anti-fouling by sanding. If you feel a bump, even a gentle one, take a drill and a countersink bit, don't be afraid to make a tiny hole 3/8" in. You may find a liquid oozing out of a gentle bump you would have never known be a blister. If not, just patch the hole with thick epoxy and colloidal silica

At the end of the day, it's not the end of the world. It's only fiberglass, and can be easily patched. Let's not make blisters that scary.
 
For additional info, I bought a Morgan 382 last year, hull #046, knowing of some blisters. I am having it hauled in a couple of weeks and tackling the problem head on. I'll try to take some in depth pictures and keep all who wish updated on the progress.

Nice job Philippe, your yellow boat looks awesome!

Chris
 
Nice Good Old Boat article Jim. I wished I had found this one earlier, as it would have been easier to chemically remove the epoxy barrier coating then sanding. However, sanding helped finding new blisters so I don't regret it much.

We pretty much otherwise followed the method the author described.

Here is a slide show of pictures, including my comments of the entire process:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/46894871@N02/sets/72157632904934289/

Thanks Chris. Yes we feel yellow make her look all young, and not many boats are yellow.
 
Pilgrim's pre-purchase survey from fall 2013 noted no hull damage or blisters, but of course that would be too good to be true.

Here is a link to a photo album documenting our discoveries and repairs - https://picasaweb.google.com/105725086102693499228/HullDamageBlisterRepairs2014?authuser=0&feat=directlink

We have discovered two areas of damage and 25 blisters. A few of the blisters have lead to delamination between the chopped strand mat and the woven roven cloth layers of the hull.


19532.jpg

blisters on bow


One of the damaged areas (image below) is due to the weight of the head pan resting on the hull.


19533.jpg

head


The second damaged area (image below) is on the port side below the bulkhead between the galley and the cockpit locker. I believe the original damage was due to a improperly loaded jack stand. Additional damage / delamination is due to a faulty repair.


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port


We are now in the process of filling all the blisters and damaged areas.

There are more images and description on our website: http://m382pilgrim.blogspot.com/ We will continue to post updates on our progress.
 
Philippe - thank you very much for the detailed information & photos - this is very helpful.

Tangent question: I had seen photos of Calypso previously (attached) and was considering the design of the bimini, radar & wind gen posts.

It looks like you took all of those contraptions off - is that just for the work you are/were doing & are you replacing them? Or gone for good? Any thoughts on the design(s)?

Cheers
-Mark (384 'Zia')


19551.jpg
 
Hi Mark,

To keep this thread focused on delimitation on M382, could you please start a new thread to discuss bikini-dodger designs?

I can certainly give more info about Calypso design, pros and cons, as well as a design I have seen recently on a M383 that (in my opinion) was great.

Thanks
Philippe
 
Hi All,

In 2010, I too had blisters, much much worse on port side hull and keel. Bisters on starboard were almost exclusively on the keel. What did Morgan workers not do/do correctly/incorrectly on 2 different sides?

I had the yard do a gel coat peel...They had to take off so much on port side, new fiberglass cloth had to be added in some areas. I did save a lot of $ by doing barrier coating myself. Hope never to go there again! She's been blister-free for last 4 years.2}
19568.jpg

Blisters port


19569.jpg

Blisters stbd keel

19570.jpg

new cloth added port side

I have also attached a couple of pics which show very nicely the seam where the 2 halves of hull were joined together.
19571.jpg

joining seam
1}
19572.jpg

joining seam
 
I started this thread a year and a half ago before my bottom job. Just because you do an epoxy barrier coat, don't expect it to last forever. When I pulled my boat, the blisters in the coating were obvious. I was able to hit them wiih my palm and break off the coating. I had the yard completely strip the old barrier coating and they repaired at least 100 blisters. Some of them were pretty bad. Three months and $12,000 later, the boat was back in the water. I expect to do this again in nine years but the next time I plan to use coal tar epoxy. I work in the pipeline business where we use coal tar epoxy and I have seen 50 year old submerged pipe where the coal tar was still very much intact.
 
Tom, when was the previous barrier coat done and do you know what was used? It also depends if the hull is dry when the job is done. If there is any moisture in the hull prior to any barrier coat, blisters will eventually pop up. Preparation and dryness are key factors to any epoxy barrier coat.

The coal tar epoxy looks interesting.

http://www.epoxyproducts.com/hindsight4u.html
 
Jim,
I didn't own the boat when the previous barrier coat was installed but here is the communication I received from the previous owner:

"Concerning your (our) boat, we had the bottom totally re-worked. That included peeling the gel coat, leaving the boat on the hard for 4 months with mild heat lamps on it to totally dry the exposed fiberglass and repairing some delamination that was taking place on the bow. That was the only place where we found any delamination. Following the drying out process and the repairs, the bottom was restored by building up multiple epoxy coats to take the place of the gel coat. It was an excellent process that was done by the yard in Mandeville. I doubt you will have any problems with the bottom."

Tommy
 
There were early boats that had a fire retardant in the layup, similar to Valiant. I do not know when Morgan stopped but I have not heard of major issues here over the years.
 
Jim:
Interesting link to epoxy products website.
I would stay away from coal tar epoxy. Aside from being banned in some states, it is nasty to work with.
I used a product called VC Tar back in then 80"s on our Santana 20. It had to be rolled on and left too rough finish for a race boat. it took a couple of weeks to get hard enough to attempt sanding. When we did sand it the paper would load up with tar balls immediately. If that wasn't enough, the dust caused a reaction on bare skin making you hypersensitive to sunlight causing rapid sunburn even with sunscreen.

In frustration we launched the boat and sailed her for the summer un-smooth. In tbe fall the coating had hardened more and we were able to sand a little easier wet sanding (under water) was the most effective. We put up with the crap for several years and it did not prevent blisters . Ultimately, we removed it using scrappers and a heat gun, then sanded what was left and had to fair and longboard the hull. We put West Epoxy back on. It gave a 400-grit finish that served us well for several years in warm freshwater.

The tar was a mess and even now the hull smells like tar.
 
Thinking about this post, of all the years here, I believe this post should not be labeled as "De-lamination"! What I see are blisters, some being greater than others, but still blisters found on just about any other boat 30+ years old. In my view De-lamination is not an issue on the Morgan 38 Series and has NEVER been an issue with these boats. These "blisters" do not threaten the integrity of the hull. They are simply "blisters"!

Blisters are an issue with any boat, but can be dealt with proper hull maintenance. This is NOT De-lamination!
 
These aren't just blisters. Blisters form on the outer layers of the fiberglass, and can be popped with a simple screwdriver. They can be indeed seen on every boat.

What I show in my pictures, and what I believe I see in others, are much deeper "blisters", difficult to find, that can even form an area up to 4 square feet.

Furthermore, when grinding those areas, once can find the fiberglass is loaded with tiny void seeping liquid.

When it becomes that wide, it cannot be referred simply as blisters. Whether delimitation is the right word or not, one cannot say those blisters are not threatening the integrity of the hull when in so high numbers and creating vast area where the glass is compromised.

A fair number of Morgan 38x seems also affected as more people post about those "blisters". As I said previously, because they are so difficult to find, see, feel, I bet many more owner have hundreds of "blisters" they aren't aware about.

It doesn't change the 38x are great boats, but clearly the layup process wasn't the highest quality at some point of time.

Cheers
Philippe
 
Show me another 30+ year old FG boat without blisters, some worse than others? I beg to differ, the hull is not compromised unless you ignore the problem or the it has been ignored for many years. There is a difference between blisters, however deep, and actual delamination. I would suggest consulting a qualified surveyor. If there is a problem with a survey on any boat with hull problems, either you accept the issue and fix it or you pass on the boat. If you own the boat, you have little choice but to address the issue. This is no different than owning a old house with problems, electrical, structural, or plumbing. Jim

http://www.yachtsurvey.com/BuyingBlisterBoat.htm
 
The water intrusion I discovered on Pilgrim, 1979 382 hull 115, is different than the blisters I have dealt with on numerous other vessels (Oday, Cape Dory, Tartan, Hinckley, Marine Trader, et. al.)

I've now ground out and am repairing 27 areas on Pilgrim's hull. In 23 of these areas water permeated through outer layers of gelcoat and chopped strand mat (CSM). Upon reaching the woven roven layers of the hull the water seeped laterally between the CSM and the woven roven. I do believe that left unchecked this type of water intrusion would lead to wholesale delamination of the hull between the CSM and woven roven layers.

In the four other areas of water intrusion, I ground out the water had not penetrated the CSM layer of the hull yet these areas were not pressurized blisters with which I am accustom. They looked more like areas in which the CSM was not fully saturated with resin in the construction process.

The areas in which Pilgrim's damage extended into the woven roven layers were due to external forces acting on the hull (e.g. the head pan and improperly loaded jackstand).

Since 2001, Pilgrim has resided in Lake Erie and thus hauled out for the winters. I speculate that spending 5 to 6 months out of the water each year during the last decade has reduced the extent of the water intrusion and delamination.
 
Jim, personally I did hire a surveyor when buying the boat and he pointed out just a few real blisters on the keel (the ones that make a dimple, and are pressurized), but completely missed the 400 other voids (approximation, I stopped counting after 200) everywhere, including those 4 square feet areas where an entire layer of glass was separated from the other.

With the forces that hulls take while at sea, I failed to see how this isn't an issue.

In the link you provided, go to the Irvin 65 picture and compare it with my own pictures. It looks very similar, huge blisters all over the hull. The text quotes "where large blisters threaten the integrity of the hull".

I also had a surveyor come and look briefly at the hull with all those voids open. I can't send a as the guy did it for free as a favor to the boatyard, but his concerns was that those were deep, not dime sized, and that in the area where they clustered, it was impacting the hull.

However, I agree with you, once fixed, the hull is not compromised anymore. It is however a real difficulty to fix them since they are so deep and so invisible.

We simply cannot ignore the fact that some Morgan 38x layup was less than stellar creating those deep and very big blisters that when clustering lead to delimitation.
 
I would say that the quality control at Morgan was not fully adequate. That is true of lots of yards making lots of boats, especially before vacuum bagging. Some of us have boats with better layups than others. Some have voids in the skeg, whereas mine is full of glass beads and resin. Some have been in cold water, some in warm water, which some persons claim makes a difference in blistering. I feel sympathy for those with the bad layups.
Mine if far from perfect--there is no full glass layer over the hull seam, for instance, but I have not encountered the big difficulties others have. But this year, we discovered incipient "blisters" in the outer mat layers. I have stripped the gel coat and am drying the boat. We will soon be doing the epoxy bottom. I get a 5 year guarantee for a $12K job--which probably means if I am still sailing, I will face it again in 5 years. Boats just are always trying to sink.
 
Guys: delamination is the breakdown between layers of matt or matt and roving or coring material. Blisters are blisters and can penetrate through multiple layers of Matt and roving depending upon what is in there. Vixen has some moderate delamination in the deck area between the matt and the plywood core.

As to blisters, salt water is more dense than freshwater as a result vessels in freshwater can experience more blistering because of the nature of the beast. Fresh water can more easily penetrate into the hull

These boats however have held up extremely well considering their age.

Dick
 
Thanks for the picture album Jeff. The area of damage are nearly 100% the same as those on my boat, and we followed the same steps. I still am amazed to see such voids in the aft hull past the keel, and continue to wonder how many Morgan 38x have that issue without the owners knowing it.

Anyway, thanks for the pics.
 
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