Bimini Top
- Thread starter 1lostbouy
- Start date
Hi John - this week we just took delivery on our new Dodger and Bimini. It also includes a zip out cloth between the dodger & bimini. Surely there must be a nautical term for that cloth but I don't know what it is, so I'll make one up: Mittel Swatch.
The guy who designed & built it did an outstanding job. He's a real craftsman.
Here are a couple pictures. Some notes:
- it's got two bows, not three
- we can pull two pins in the horizontal brace and have it folded up & out of the way in less than a minute.
- I thought it would need to extend aft (and be split by) the backstay, but it didn't. Still plenty of coverage IMHO.
- since you have a 382 with traveler in cockpit, you wouldn't have a Mittel Swatch.
- it's got a coverable window on the top so we can see the full sail
I'm very happy with it & will be getting some better pictures this week. And even better photos when the sun comes back in about 6 months!
Cheers,
Mark
The guy who designed & built it did an outstanding job. He's a real craftsman.
Here are a couple pictures. Some notes:
- it's got two bows, not three
- we can pull two pins in the horizontal brace and have it folded up & out of the way in less than a minute.
- I thought it would need to extend aft (and be split by) the backstay, but it didn't. Still plenty of coverage IMHO.
- since you have a 382 with traveler in cockpit, you wouldn't have a Mittel Swatch.
- it's got a coverable window on the top so we can see the full sail
I'm very happy with it & will be getting some better pictures this week. And even better photos when the sun comes back in about 6 months!
Cheers,
Mark
hallelujah
Helene Schmidt
Mark that looks like a beautiful set up.
datswite
Ken Ferrari
I had a bimini made for my 382 last fall, and I'm very pleased with it. While my traveler has been moved to the cabin top, this design would have worked either way. There is also a connector that zips in between the dodger and the bimini. The connector is a bit droopy, so I don't often use it unless it's raining. However, the droop allows the boom to tack unimpeded. Not a concern for you considering your traveler placement. It's a 3 bow design with solid stainless supports on the aft side that connect the bimini to the pushpit. The forward side has adjustable straps that lead to cars on the jib track. It doesn't interfere at all with the winches or entering/exiting the cockpit. I had the height adjusted to me so I can stand on the helmsman seat. It extends aft, over the lazarette, but stops with enough room for me to stand at the grill. On top is mounted a 100-watt flexible solar panel that zips in. The dodger has 3 50-watt solar panels zipped in. I love it, and it looks great in my opinion. I'll try to dig up some more photos, but here are a few of it.
The light seen in the photo is the Mantus snap-on rechargeable light. I can't recommend that little guy enough. Rechargeable and the battery lasts a long time. Bright, but dimmable. Love it!
The light seen in the photo is the Mantus snap-on rechargeable light. I can't recommend that little guy enough. Rechargeable and the battery lasts a long time. Bright, but dimmable. Love it!
Last edited:
So, Ken has 3 bows (beams across top) versus 2 on mine. His goes another foot or so aft and thus is split by the backstays - mine stays forward.
I don't have the strap going forward because I've got a horizontal brace that connects the bows. It removes with a pin, and I've got a little brace going from the aft bow to the stern pulpit rail, for additional horizontal stability. We have a window in the top so we can look up and see the sails. It looks like Ken might not need that because his is set further aft than ours?
Just noting some differences ... none are right or wrong, just personal preferences and trying to keep within a budget.
Ken - do you fold up your bimini often?
I don't have the strap going forward because I've got a horizontal brace that connects the bows. It removes with a pin, and I've got a little brace going from the aft bow to the stern pulpit rail, for additional horizontal stability. We have a window in the top so we can look up and see the sails. It looks like Ken might not need that because his is set further aft than ours?
Just noting some differences ... none are right or wrong, just personal preferences and trying to keep within a budget.
Ken - do you fold up your bimini often?
Last edited:
jimcleary
James M. Cleary
John
Our boat is a 382 with the mainsheet forward of the wheel. We had the dodger/bimini/enclosure built a few years ago. The bimini frame is mounted on the stern rail. There is a solid SS support to the aft part of the stern rail that locks the structure in place without having lines going forward. On top there are 2 solid solar panels for 225 watts. Because of the solar panels the bimini frame stays up and open all season. The Sunbrella bimini top can be unzipped and removed when a storm is near. The height on the bimini was dictated by my standing on the bench behind the wheel and not hitting my head, I'm 5'-8". With the mainsheet in the cockpit, we can't sail with the connector in place. That's not a big deal. We have a radar pole, called "radar on the level", that angles up from the transom to the backstay above the split. There is a pocket in the top that allows the pole and the stbd backstay to pass through. There is a full windowed cockpit enclosure that zips to the bimini and dodger. In the spring and fall that is wonderful. Like having a solarium. On a sunny day with the weather in the 40s, we sit out in T-shirts. Since you are in Boston, you might like that. I really don't have any good photos of the set-up and the boat is put away for the winter. I hope this will help you. Call me if I can be of any assistance. 516-437-6107.
Jim
Our boat is a 382 with the mainsheet forward of the wheel. We had the dodger/bimini/enclosure built a few years ago. The bimini frame is mounted on the stern rail. There is a solid SS support to the aft part of the stern rail that locks the structure in place without having lines going forward. On top there are 2 solid solar panels for 225 watts. Because of the solar panels the bimini frame stays up and open all season. The Sunbrella bimini top can be unzipped and removed when a storm is near. The height on the bimini was dictated by my standing on the bench behind the wheel and not hitting my head, I'm 5'-8". With the mainsheet in the cockpit, we can't sail with the connector in place. That's not a big deal. We have a radar pole, called "radar on the level", that angles up from the transom to the backstay above the split. There is a pocket in the top that allows the pole and the stbd backstay to pass through. There is a full windowed cockpit enclosure that zips to the bimini and dodger. In the spring and fall that is wonderful. Like having a solarium. On a sunny day with the weather in the 40s, we sit out in T-shirts. Since you are in Boston, you might like that. I really don't have any good photos of the set-up and the boat is put away for the winter. I hope this will help you. Call me if I can be of any assistance. 516-437-6107.
Jim
datswite
Ken Ferrari
Mark - I'm a liveaboard, so I never fold the bimini unless I'm leaving the boat for awhile. Since I'm heading for the tropics, I wanted to maximize shade. That's why I had it extend further aft than yours. The forward edge of the bimini is just 2 or 3 inches aft of the boom (and is right at the same height as the boom). Because I have a solar panel on the bimini, a window was useless to me. I can easily see the mainsail by leaning forward a bit. But, frankly, the windvane is steering most of the time, so I'm rarely standing behind the wheel. Yours looks great, too!
Couple of questions:
Can you tighten the canvas as it stretches over time? I'm assuming you would just move the horizontal bars down to push the bows apart?
Where did you get that outboard motor mount? I bought a teak one last year, and it's falling apart already. That one looks pretty nice.
Ken
Last edited:
Ken - I got my outboard motor mount from Defender - like yours, mine had a wooden one that was pretty well disintegrated.
I noticed they don't sell my exact mount any more, but it is quite a bit like this:
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|215570|1825671|2348991&id=3061227
Yes, I can lower those horizontal braces to tighten the canvas as it stretches.
I'll measure it next time, but the forward edge of my bimini goes at least a few inches forward of the boom. I'm 6 ft tall, and the designer made it 6'-4" tall so I'd have plenty of height.
Cheers,
-Mark
I noticed they don't sell my exact mount any more, but it is quite a bit like this:
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|215570|1825671|2348991&id=3061227
Yes, I can lower those horizontal braces to tighten the canvas as it stretches.
I'll measure it next time, but the forward edge of my bimini goes at least a few inches forward of the boom. I'm 6 ft tall, and the designer made it 6'-4" tall so I'd have plenty of height.
Cheers,
-Mark
datswite
Ken Ferrari
Thanks, Mark. I'll take a look at that mount.
I would have liked to go a little lower on my bimini so I could extend under the boom. However, I often stand on the helmsman seat whenever I'm maneuvering in tight quarters. So, I had to go high. I'm 5' 8", so add to that the height of the helmsman seat. I was worried that it would look funny if it was too high, but I think it turned out ok. My dodger height is about 5' 7".
datswite
Ken Ferrari
I've seen the starboard mounts on the market. They're selling for about $80. Seems like a great option!
schlepper
John m. Harrison
I have a 383 and the original bimini when I bought the boat would leave me burned up during the summer as it was too far forward from the backstays. It was not well made anyway so I got rid of it... i had a new one made with dodger. I know I know... when you see the photos you'll say the dodge is too high but I got the higher quality isinglass and had the dodger frame made to stand alone and not rely on the cloth to keep it upright. At first with all the bracing I wasn't sure I would like it.... now I don't notice it and love the full coverage. The 'Mittelswatch' i leave off this time of year and it's only on for sun/rain protection when needed. Hasn't stretched out too far yet... about the only thing I don't like about it is that when on the aft deck cooking on the grill, i can't stand up fully because the top comes that far back.... work around it because here in Florida, I'd prefer the shade...
Attachments
captpete
Member
Reading this I have to say a Bimini now belongs on the list of things that will be good to have on the boat. Thanks for these different approaches.
I will also say that our old girl came with a very tall dodger. The prior owner warned me about it. It's not particularly attractive - ok it's ugly. But I have really grown to appreciate it when there is rain or spray. And most importantly I dont have to be a contortionist to go below. In fact at 5'8" I can pretty much step right down below without stooping. On my prior Pearson 39 I had a dodger set up so I could see over it when standing. Which meant having to basically crawl under it and over the bridge deck to get below, something I was better at in my younger days. The new owner of that boat is a very large man. Not sure how long he will put up with that low dodger....
I will also say that our old girl came with a very tall dodger. The prior owner warned me about it. It's not particularly attractive - ok it's ugly. But I have really grown to appreciate it when there is rain or spray. And most importantly I dont have to be a contortionist to go below. In fact at 5'8" I can pretty much step right down below without stooping. On my prior Pearson 39 I had a dodger set up so I could see over it when standing. Which meant having to basically crawl under it and over the bridge deck to get below, something I was better at in my younger days. The new owner of that boat is a very large man. Not sure how long he will put up with that low dodger....
schlepper
John m. Harrison
I had several criteria when I got my new dodger and bimini made....
1. frames must stand on their own and not rely on the cloth and snaps to stand up or stay in place
2. the bimini must come back so that the helm is completely covered
3. i must be able to clearly see when at the helm and not be stooped to see under/over the dodger
4. a good quality isinglass and the center panel must be able to be unzipped and used the horseshoe zipper so it can be rolled up or zipped in place easily.
5. a cover over the isinglass when I am not there so the glass will last not bake exposed in the sun
I love my top and frankly don't care that it's perhaps not as 'classic looking' as the low slung ones. I've sailed now for 4+ years and there are some things about how sailboats, especially older ones, are configured that i thought were done for a good reason and have found some of those reasons were perhaps more for cost savings in production (such as why is the instrument cluster and key and kill lever at the companion way and not at the helm?). Maybe a low dodger is to keep more of the water out in heavy rains and seas but that's not the type of sailing I am likely to do very often if ever. Another item is 'why is the frig next to the engine and not put the sink and hot water heater there and the frig where the sink is located away from the heat??
So anyway, not to hijack the thread.... I like my bimini and my dodger. One other issue I have had with it since it was put on was the boom rubbed the top of the dodger as I had pulled the rigid vang too far down when the main was stowed in the stack pack and although it would clear the top in the center, when the boom swung back and forth in one of our tropical storms, the outer edge of one swing direction put a wear spot in it which my top maker sewed a cover across the back bow to protect it if that ever happens again.... So I'm happy and more importantly, the Admiral is happy....
1. frames must stand on their own and not rely on the cloth and snaps to stand up or stay in place
2. the bimini must come back so that the helm is completely covered
3. i must be able to clearly see when at the helm and not be stooped to see under/over the dodger
4. a good quality isinglass and the center panel must be able to be unzipped and used the horseshoe zipper so it can be rolled up or zipped in place easily.
5. a cover over the isinglass when I am not there so the glass will last not bake exposed in the sun
I love my top and frankly don't care that it's perhaps not as 'classic looking' as the low slung ones. I've sailed now for 4+ years and there are some things about how sailboats, especially older ones, are configured that i thought were done for a good reason and have found some of those reasons were perhaps more for cost savings in production (such as why is the instrument cluster and key and kill lever at the companion way and not at the helm?). Maybe a low dodger is to keep more of the water out in heavy rains and seas but that's not the type of sailing I am likely to do very often if ever. Another item is 'why is the frig next to the engine and not put the sink and hot water heater there and the frig where the sink is located away from the heat??
So anyway, not to hijack the thread.... I like my bimini and my dodger. One other issue I have had with it since it was put on was the boom rubbed the top of the dodger as I had pulled the rigid vang too far down when the main was stowed in the stack pack and although it would clear the top in the center, when the boom swung back and forth in one of our tropical storms, the outer edge of one swing direction put a wear spot in it which my top maker sewed a cover across the back bow to protect it if that ever happens again.... So I'm happy and more importantly, the Admiral is happy....
Our buddy here calls the full enclosures that totally seal in the cockpit "Oxygen Tents".
To each their own, though. While we might have chuckled at them, I'm sure they were a couple of notches more comfortable than we were, and were probably chuckling at us ;-)
I agree with John and I've wondered about the engine starting/stopping control location, and putting the icebox between the engine & the stove/oven. His placement ideas are better. We had to bake some potatoes for our sailing regatta and it melted everything in our icebox. My big project this winter is to hopefully strip out & rebuild the icebox. I spend my evenings studying Jeff's (of Pilgrim) photos of his incredible job. And psyching myself out.
To each their own, though. While we might have chuckled at them, I'm sure they were a couple of notches more comfortable than we were, and were probably chuckling at us ;-)
I agree with John and I've wondered about the engine starting/stopping control location, and putting the icebox between the engine & the stove/oven. His placement ideas are better. We had to bake some potatoes for our sailing regatta and it melted everything in our icebox. My big project this winter is to hopefully strip out & rebuild the icebox. I spend my evenings studying Jeff's (of Pilgrim) photos of his incredible job. And psyching myself out.
Last edited:
schlepper
John m. Harrison
Well I guess I have an Oxygen Tent on my Dock Condo! lol....
What I have works for me here in the Florida Gulf of Mexico summer heat and our winds here are typically much lighter than many other areas in the country where some of ya'll might reside... But it is interesting to learn all of these details about why things are or were done the way they have been done....
What I have works for me here in the Florida Gulf of Mexico summer heat and our winds here are typically much lighter than many other areas in the country where some of ya'll might reside... But it is interesting to learn all of these details about why things are or were done the way they have been done....
jimcleary
James M. Cleary
Heading South on the ICW in October and November when the air temps are in the 40s and the wind is Northeast at 30kts, it's rather nice to have that oxygen tent. Although it sounds better as a solarium.
A thought on the icebox rebuild, before the new insulation goes in the box, line the entire box with aluminum foil. Use spray glue and place the shinier side of the foil facing out. It will reflect most of the radiant heat, especially from the engine, away from the box. And right behind the aluminum foil, line the box with mylar paper. It is an excellent vapor barrier. Then put the form board insulation in. Works wonders.
Jim
A thought on the icebox rebuild, before the new insulation goes in the box, line the entire box with aluminum foil. Use spray glue and place the shinier side of the foil facing out. It will reflect most of the radiant heat, especially from the engine, away from the box. And right behind the aluminum foil, line the box with mylar paper. It is an excellent vapor barrier. Then put the form board insulation in. Works wonders.
Jim
tfrere
Thomas McNulty
Guys,
I found a refrigeration solution in the archives on this site several year back. Someone had drilled 1/4" holes every six inches in the box from top to bottom and side to side. Then sprayed expanding foam insulation in every other hole until it comes out of neighboring holes. After it dried, shave the extra foam and plug with small plastic plugs. It was a bit of a mess but my refrigeration works great.
I only have two 105 amp hour house batteries and with refrigeration, 12v television, water pumps, anchor lights, interior lights, etc. my batteries never got below 12.6 volts last month on a 4 day 3 night trip. I was able to freeze beer (not on purpose) and keep both sides of the box very cold.
I found a refrigeration solution in the archives on this site several year back. Someone had drilled 1/4" holes every six inches in the box from top to bottom and side to side. Then sprayed expanding foam insulation in every other hole until it comes out of neighboring holes. After it dried, shave the extra foam and plug with small plastic plugs. It was a bit of a mess but my refrigeration works great.
I only have two 105 amp hour house batteries and with refrigeration, 12v television, water pumps, anchor lights, interior lights, etc. my batteries never got below 12.6 volts last month on a 4 day 3 night trip. I was able to freeze beer (not on purpose) and keep both sides of the box very cold.
rolf
Rolf Peterson
I made my bimini. I can't stand on the aft seat but I can stand behind it on the aft lazzarette locker and look over it and love doing that. I've steered with my foot from there for short periods, but I end up on the sole popping my head out each side. I have a connector to the dodger, it sags a bit now. I intend to do something to minimize the wobble, right now a single bow attached to the cap rail, straps fore and aft keep it stiff. I added a pipe to the pushpit, but it didn't help much, so there is some figuring to be done. It was very good to have sailing in rainy and stormy conditions, with the connector keeps the rain at bay.
The dodger is kind of high, but I can see through it well to steer, I don't duck much. I don't like the aesthetics or windage however, and may very well change it up with rounded sides, but still fairly high, when I need to re-do. I went a long time without a bimini (L. Superior), but its addition really added a whole new "room" to the boat.
The dodger is kind of high, but I can see through it well to steer, I don't duck much. I don't like the aesthetics or windage however, and may very well change it up with rounded sides, but still fairly high, when I need to re-do. I went a long time without a bimini (L. Superior), but its addition really added a whole new "room" to the boat.