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Aft Lazarette on Morgan 382

J

jmonda

Jerry Monda
Hi Folks,
I have a 1980 Morgan 382. It is very difficult to access things in the aft lazarette. On my boat there is a plywood bulkhead between the aft lazarette and the storage area under the aft seat. The auto pilot framework is bolted to this plywood. But the plywood does not look like it was original as it is only fiberglassed to the hull on the bottom.

With the plywood in place it is impossible to go into the storage area under the rear seat and get into the aft lazarette.

Does anyone else have this plywood bulkhead installed? Do you think it existed in Ted Brewer's drawings. I can't find it in the drawings I've seen.

Thanks,
Jerry
 
Jerry,

Pilgrim - 1979 M382 Hull# 115 - has a 1/2" plywood bulkhead in the same position and tabbed to the hull only.

Also check out the post titled "Inside Paint and Lazarette Tabbing" last commented on 11/11/14. This post has a discussion about rot along the lower edge of this bulkhead.

Fortunately Pilgrim's bulkhead does not have any rot. My plan is to add tabbing along the top of the bulkhead for additional strength and to better isolate the lazarette. I want the lazarette isolated b/c I plan to utilize it as a propane locker.

What Hull# is your 382?

jeff
 
My tabbing released and I plan to fix it in the spring. I would like to have propane, too.
 
The plywood was part of the original boat. Everyone has it. Though I am 5'11" and 180 pounds, I can fit myself into the aft lazarette, and have done so to paint it, and to repair the bilge pump throughhull. It's not easy, but it can be done. Note that the aft-most lazarette is wet storage - anything in there will get quite wet or damp, particularly when under power.
I have also fit myself into the storage area underneath the helm seat several times, to replace the kill switch for AC system, replace the blower pump, replace the manual bilge pump, replace the bilge pump hose, re-wire the stern running light, and run wires for a newly installed autopilot.
It is not easy, and it's a very awkward position, but it can be done. The trick is to put your feet first on the port side, then wiggle them high up into the corner, bend yourself in half, wiggle your butt closer to the port side, then lower your torso and head flat against the plywood platform. At this point, you can move to the starboard side to gain access to the AC kill switch, bilge blower, wiring, etc.
I always wear a baseball cap when executing this manuever, to protect my noggin from the metal hooks attached to the inside seat rim.
Getting out is equally difficult - it helps to have an assistant in the cockpit, though once you know how to do it, it can be done without assistance.
 
My boat has the bulkhead also. The previous owner used it to store propane and sealed off the holes for the vent lines that go through the bulkhead. In order to fit a 10 lb aluminum propane bottle he had to cut the inner lip off of the access opening.
I once was replacing the tank vents on the transom after I first purchased my boat. I went in head first to get to them and after I got finished I found I was stuck upside down in the hole. Nobody was with me and I could not get out. I had to calm myself down and after about 5 or 10 minutes (felt like hours) I ended up flipping my feet to the opposite side. I pushed with everything I could and finally got free. I don't bruise easily but the next day my chest and back were black and blue.
 
I now use my 384's aft Lazerette for life jackets all dry thanks to you guys !
I used the idea of a t handle rubber dink stopper. I epoxied it on to a 1/2 dowel . Just cut a saw cut in the bottom glued the T handle in the slot.
Now i turn the dowel some 3 feet long and it stops the water when under way !
Such a simple thing keeps me all dry now.. Thank you
lee
 
Thanks everyone,
I don't know exactly what my hull number is. The hull ID number is below. Can the hull number be derived from that?

Hull ID number: MRY22221M80G

Jerry
 
<div>Jerry, page 8 of the attached "NASBLA HIN comp.pdf" shows how to decode your HIN.

MRY Manufacturer Code for 'Morgan Yacht'
22221 5-digit serial #
Your Hull # is 221
I think 22 indicates Model 382
M designates 'Model year format'
80 Model year (1980)
G Production month (Feb)
A-Aug D-Nov G-Feb J-May
B-Sep E-Dec H-Mar K-Jun
C-Oct F-Jan I-Apr L-Jul



View attachment NASBLA_HIN_comp-20245.pdf

NASBLA HIN comp.pdf
</div>
 
Lee - what size/type drain plug did you use? I like your idea and want to do the same to my boat.
Thanks,
JOHN
 
I got the idea her from one of the guys here. !
I got the plug at WEST marine.
The black rubber dink plugs with the brass T handle top and brass bottom washer.. I think 1 inch. But they expand when they are tightened.
They are drain plugs for dingys
I used a broom stick thick dowel from home depot and had a bicycle handle on my work bench so i stuck it on the end , it is RED ! So when I open up the Lazerette the red handle is 2 inches shorter than the lid ! Real handily.
Twist to seal or unseal . !
Just cut a slot in the dowel and epoxy the t handle right it as far as the washer.!
No sense bending down that far , any more.!
 
The only problem is if you forget to remove the plug. I like using a one way valve to stop sea water intrusion and allow drainage from rain water.
 
I use a Champagne cork - they bloat out to the exact right size after a while - I pull it out while in the harbor or if it's raining and I'm not motoring. Other than my eyes bugging-out when I lean in to install/pull it it's the perfect low-dollar solution.
 
After reading about the aft lazarette, I had to add what happened to me on a trip down the Gulf from Carrabelle, FL to St Pete Beach.

I had my PFD on and reached into the aft locker to grab a line. The line was so far down I had to reach as far as I could and then go head first all the way up to mid chest. All of a sudden I heard a big noise and felt might chest tighten. It took me a few seconds to realize that my PDF had deployed as I caught the rip cord on the edge of the locker opening. Once I realized what I had done, I was stuck with my PFD fully inflated. I was thinking how funny I must have looked. The rest of my crew was sleeping below and could not even hear me if I had tried to call out.

It took me a few minutes to calm down and find the release valve but I finally did and was able to get right out once the PFD deflated a bit.

I only wish I had video running, ha!
 
We had a similar Morgan Lazzarette incident...
I was trying to tighten one of the nuts that holds the stern ladder on but it kept slipping. My friend, a large guy, tried to help me by promptly wedging himself into the same tight opening...not the best idea. We both found ourselves helplessly wedged tightly upside down with beet red faces looking at each other not feeling like the two sharpest lives in the drawer! The funnier part though was that our shorts had slipped a bit, so we looked like two "plumbers", if you get what I'm saying.
It took a third person from nearby to unwedge us and get us out. Pretty embarrassing.
We do have a pictures but there not very tasteful! My wife took them between trying to catch her breath laughing at us. I'm sure we'd still be there had it not been for the help from a passer by. She would have just left us there for being so dumb.
 
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That locker is dangerous. Years ago, I was replacing tank vent fittings that go through the transom. I got myself caught upside down in the locker and couldn't get out. There was nobody around to help. After I calmed down, I was able to push myself out but it was painful. My chest and back were black and blue for a few days following and I rarely bruise.
 
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