Windlass

[balance]

<div>We would like to know if anyone has any suggestions for mounting
a windlass on a 382. We would prefer to keep the chain in the
existing anchor rode hatch. The previous windlass (huge)was
mounted aft of the hatch and fed the chain into the forepeek
berth, something that we would like to correct for obvious
reasons. We are considering a manual windlass with 10" x 6"
footprint.Thanks,
Diana and Stewart Jack
S/V Murrelet I - 382 # 068
Victoria, Canada
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[aistqm]

Check privious posting on this and previous BBs. Owners have used two mounting location. Where your old windlass was mounted with a hauser pipe angled forward to the anchor well and over top of the anchor locker by decking over the locker hatch. I have a SL Hyspeed mounted over the locker on an oak deck that I installed in place of the hatch. The deck only occuppies half of the original hatch opening and therefore give me access to this locker via a smaller hatch just forward of the windlass.

 

[balthazor]

My Niilson/Maxwell 700 vertical electric is mounted just aft of the existing locker. An angled hause runs into the locker and down past the locker shelf. The chain goes into the lower part of the locker; I keep a spare rope rode and anchor in the upper shelf. Two flaws in this: first, I actually think the Maxwell is a little underpowerred, although I have never had real problems--since I use the engine to run up to the anchor. More seriously, the chain rode does not have enough room below the shelf to fall down on its own effectively. So, I have to reach in through an inspection plate periodically and tip over the chain "mountain" or the windlass binds up. (I store 200 feet of chain in the locker and 100 feet more is below the forward berths. (Actually, that is another problem, since the 100 feet is hard to pull through the additional pipe up to the chain locker.) When I am single handing this is a real bother, since I would like to be able to run the windlass from the helm. I have contemplated fixing this by eliminating the shelf and having a deeper locker, but then I have to reduce the amount of water going into it, and thence into the bilge. Jay's situation sounds pretty smart. And, frankly, having the chain go directly into the berth area is attractive, too, since it puts the weight further aft. I have the twin forward berths, so I might be able to do that without major disruption. Having read your posting, I will investigate that possibility, now. (Always another project.) Good luck.

 

[aistqm]

<div>A couple of thing to keep in mind. As far as I can tell, The 382 and 383 had different anchor locker arrangements. I do not have a upper and lower locker but one deep locker. My windless is directly over this locker and the rode drops directly into it and not into the Vberth.Jay
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[balthazor]

Jay: Do the 383s have a big anchor locker hatch as original design? If so, how does all the water that gets in drain out? My hatch is not well sealed (and being on the bow, gets lots of water.) The upper shelf of the locker stops the water from entering the boat--it is shunted over the side with two little rain holes. What water gets in through the hausee into the lower locker drains through a hose into the bilged. I would not want all the water that gets onto the shelf in the bilge. I have assume that if I were to take out the shelf and deepen the locker so it accepts chain better, I would have to do a major rebuild of the hatch, to make it weather and sea proof--and I am not sure I could succeed well enough to be comfortable with the results.

 

[aistqm]

<div>Terry. There is a 1/2 inch hole drilled through the bow of the boat which allows water to drain overboard above the water line. My orginal hatch was not sealed very well either. Once I have determined that the rode plays in and out of the locker fairly and stacks properly, I will try and seal the new hatch better than it currently is.Jay
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