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Windlass

J

jvierra

Joseph E. Vierra
Interest in installing windlass. Have seen photos of Ed O'brien's (Katahdin) setup but wanted to know info on different setups. I have a shallow anchor locker. With a windlass is it necessary to fabricate a deeper locker or does the chain lay properly in the shallow locker.
Thanks for your input.

 
I'm also interrested in windlass setups. I've been planning to install one on my 384 and figured I would cut out the bottom of the anchor locker to connect it to the chain locker below and glass over the anchor locker cover as well as reinforce it for mounting the windlass. I'm planing to change to an all chain anchor rode.
any suggestions?
 
<div>I installed a manual vertical windless just aft of the chain locker. I use 50 feet of 3/8 chain with 300 feet of line. The setup works fine. I have to rearrange the chain a little when bringing in the chain. The chain and line fit in the top anchor locker ( 8-10 inches deep). I use the lower locker, only accessable from the forward cabin for storage.
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I have done exactly what you suggest to my 382. The bottom of the shallow locker was cut out to allow access to the bottom portion. I then built a solid Teak laminated over marine plywood cover to replace the hatch. This cover was thru bolted in place and sealed. A S/L 555 was installed in the center of this cover with the chain led directly down into the locker. I carry 300' of 3/8" bbb and 300' of 3/4" nylon that never gets deployed but i kept it because there was room and hey.. ya never know. The draw back of this system is obvious, there is an increased moisture problem in the locker but it is still worth it to have secure stowage for that length of chain.
 
To: Larry Sutton
I'd like to install a manual windlass too, But the only ones I've seen won't bring in the chain on the port side, which is where my anchor roller is located. Any help ??
 
My recently purchased 382 has a nice installation. The forward end of the anchor hatch was replaced with a structural piece that was built into and matches the deck. Now there is a smaller rectangular hatch opening that gives access to the back end of the original anchor locker, and the windlass is mounted on the structural filler just ahead of the new hatch cover. The windlass chain pipe penetrates the floor of the anchor locker and the primary anchor rode now stacks up in the locker below. The secondary anchor rode is kept in the original shallow locker under the windlass. Adjacent to the windlass is a deckplate with cover that gives access to the backup rode without the need to open the hatch.
As I change to an all chain rode this spring, I plan to pull out the lead ballast that's installed by the factory in the bow, under the forward end of the v-berth. I don't know how much it weighs, but it looks to be at least 200 to 300 lbs. Does anyone know how much it weighs?
 
<div>I installed Maxwell 1200VWC vertical just aft of the upper locker and dropped the all chain(5/16 high test) through a Pvc 2 1/2" at a 45 degree angle through first the vertical bulkhead and then the floor of the upper anchor locker about 12 inches on the centerline. The 200 ft. of chain falls into the lower chain locker without a problem. The windlass motor is just above the door to the locker and is backed with a large stainless plate covering a large area. The upper locker is still fully useable for 300 ft of 5/8 rode and 50 ft of chain and a FX37 anchor broken down.Write if you questions.</div>
 
This is a thought that some of you may not know; that under the veeberth of early 382's are located, perhaps 180 lbs of lead embedded in resin, that I removed on our boat, hull #109, when I install the windlass, 45# CQR, 33#Bruce, and 300 ft. of rode. It's a job to get it out, but it's worth removing.
 
I'm really looking for a manual windlass. I only have 50ft. of chain, and that's where I need the help. The combined weight of the 35lb. CQR and chain is becoming increasing troublesome to my back !

 
Just a thought! It might be worth it to have the electric windlass. They are much quicker & easier to use than the manual ones & if you're like me, most of the time you're anchoring or pulling up the hook you'll have the engine running for safty sake therefore it's not really an extra strain on your batteries. I had considered the manual route but have been sold on the idea of an electric one. I'll also be changing over to all chain rode and a larger anchor.

 
A second *opinion*
I've had no windlass, a manual windlass, and now electric. If you have back trouble (as I do), the electric windlass is a blessing. Besides the obvious relief to your back and arms, you can pull and re-anchor repeatedly -- until you feel satisfied that the hook is set properly. There are many stories about sailors losing their boats because they were simply too tired to (re)anchor properly.
Just a thought....

 
<div>JimThat lead under the v-bunk was exactly 300 lbs. on my 1978 M-382. Removing it was a nasty job because of the cramped quarters and the fact that it was sealed in place with a fiberglass slurrey poured in and around it. The weight of the lead was equal to the 5/16 " g-4 all-chain rode and the windlass we now have on the bow.Good luck Jim
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Does anyone happen to know if the lead under the v-birth was also used on the M383,M384 models? As I plan to add a windlass w/ lots of chain it would be worth removing if it's there.
 
In your Jan 21 posting re windlass installation, you described your windlass location and the use of 2 1/2"PVCat a 45 degree angle to drop the chain into the chain locker under the anchor well. I have a couple of questions since I am planning to do the same thing with my 383 (hull 037). How did you secure the PVC? How did you overcome the difficulties of drilling9 or hole-sawing) through the bulkwead as well as a corner of the anchor locker? What schedule PVC did you use? If you have any other heads-up info for doing this project, I would sure appreciate hearing from you. I like the concept and execution of your design, and I look forward to hearing from you.
Jim Mac Laury
 
<div>I am looking for a source for a manual rope windlass that I can use to retrofit an anchor to a 24' SeaRay cabin cruiser. I have to construct the bow plank and attach a roller guide to it but before I design this contraption, I need to procur a rope windlass so it is incorporated properly into the design of the bow plank.Any assistance in this matter would be appreciated.Thanks in advanceHawkeye

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I own a 1979 morgan 382 and want to install a power windlass. Any brand recommendations and install locations. Where could I go to research the installation process? Thanks, Mark
 
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