staysail stay

[bschnur]

I would like to add a stays'l stay to my 382 and wonder where it
should be attached to the mast. I see a large tang welded onto
the front of the mast at spreader level and wonder if that's
intended for a stays'l stay -- although it seems a bit low. Or
could that tang be for a topping lift? One complicating factor
is the existing radar dome and deck/steaming light that are
mounted 2 to 3 feet above the spreaders.
Anybody?

 

[dhoneycutt]

Jim: I did mine a number of years ago, 1992 I think. Had Ted Brewer send me the design, his fee was nominal and had the parts made up by Metalmast in Putman Ct. I don't remember the measuremnt from the masthead but it is much higher than the tang fitting at the spreaders you mentioned.I also added running backstays. Whether it will clear your radar is a good question,mine does but it is a newer JRC unit with an 18" dome. If you want e mail me and I will measure location and advise.

 

[aurora]

Jim: The tang welded to the front of the mast is for the topping lift. Most stay'sl are 15 to 20 % of the J measurement (tack to front of mast). You should provide support at the point of attachment to deck to permit tightening. If you make the stay permanent you will not be able to use conventional spinnaker in the future. Jim Hudnut.

 

[bschnur]

My boat came with a 100 sq.ft. storm-stays'l with a wire luff, but many months went by before I realized that the stays'l stay did not move west with the boat. I need to replace that stay, but I'd like the new one to stow out of the way at the shrouds until needed. The original stay and sail apparently mounted on deck to a pair of padeyes immediately aft of the headstay, and at the top to a Gibb fitting on the mast, installed at the same height as the cap shroud tangs. I have abandoned the padeyes and followed Ted Brewer's design for a new attachment point on deck, aft of the anchor locker. If I rig a new stay between the existing Gibb fitting and the new deck fitting, it won't be parallel to the headstay, but is this a problem? It seems like it might even be a plus since there would be no need for running backs with the top of the stays'l stay being so close to the backstay. Am I missing something?

 

[aistqm]

<div>Jim. What you have described is similar to what Shannon Yachts calls a slutter rig. Find an advertizement for Shannon and take a look. They have a large genoa on the forward rollers and a working jib on the inner roller. I have seen other boats with similar renditions of this concept. The down side on the Shannon is that they are both permenant rollers and the forward genoa must be reefed or furled to complete a tack. If you can get your sheet leads setup correctly I don't see any reason you can't impliment a similar version Dual Will.--Jay--
</div>

 

[balthazor]

For a staysail, go with Brewer's design. I think Lenny Reich did this overhaul just a couple of years ago. I have an inner forestay--a solent stay, with a quick release lever that fits just behind the forestay and goes up nearly to the masthead. I just use it to hank on a working jib after I roll in the big genny. Be sure if you use a removable inner stay that you get a good quick release lever--I think they are known as Highfield levers and only ABS makes a good one--several hundred dollars, by the way.

 

[aurora]

I see no reason why the inner stay must be parallel to the headstay. Problem with quick release levers on an inner stay is that you cannt tension them enough and still keep them in the quickrelease mode. I had a 44 foot custom
Dubois racer with a baby stay to stabilize the mast center when configuring the mast during a race. It had a quick release lever and we were able to stow it alongside the mast when not in use, but in order to tension it during use I had to rely on cranking up the hydraulics. Back to the parallel issue. It would not be hard to install a new fitting at a point on the mast making the stay parallel. I think the issue is how is the staysail cut. If it was with the boat when you bought the boat it probably is cut to fit the existing tack point aft of the headstay. This affects how the leech of the sail is formed and cut to be effective with luff entry. Jim Hudnut

 

[dick]

<div>Terry, why do you recommend going with Brewer's "cutter" stays'l design? Is the rig you have not functional? I was getting ready to add a second chain plate in place of the hawse pipe and an attachment point at the mast even with the upper shroud tangs. This would place the removable stay about parallel and just aft of the headstay. I need a way to hank on a storm jib with the genny furled. I had the idea of stowing it near one of the forward lower shrouds, tensioned with a pelican hook. I could hank on the storm jib there before braving the foredeck to attach the stay. Since the stay will be too short when swung forward, I planned on permanently keeping a wire pendant (with turnbuckle) attached to the new chainplate. The pendant could lay mostly out of sight in the anchor locker when not in use.Oscar, M-382 #161 "Calypso"
</div>