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Prop Removal

B

barefoot

Scott J Brown
<div>I am thinking of replacing the wide-bladed, three-bladed prop
that came on my M-383 (Perkins 4-108) with a thinner-bladed
sailing prop (also three bladed). But I'll have to get the old
one off first. I'm concerned both with drag and with turbulance
over the rudder, compromising its effectiveness. I know that a
feathering prop is preferable, but it is MUCH more expensive (and
requires cutting the prop shaft).Does anyone know if the present prop will come off without
dropping the rudder? (The clearance between the back of the prop
hub and the front of the rudder is less than the hub length, but
it looks like it might be possible to work the hub somewhat
sideways as it comes off.)Anyone's experience here would be appreciated. Thanks.

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Lenny-- We had the cutlass bearing replaced when we bought our boat a couple of years ago, and that necessitated pulling the prop. Generally, I don't think the prop will come off with the rudder in place. The yard where we had the work done put a slight scalloped groove in the rudder right behind the prop to get the prop off. (It doesn't take much. As you say, it's close.) Probably a better solution is to pull the coupler off the other end of the prop shaft, which will let you slide the shaft forward, and it should be enough for the prop to clear.
When you unbolt the coupler from the engine, you might be able to slide the shaft back far enough to get a small gear puller (rent for a day from an auto store, cost me $12) onto the coupler. If not, get some longer bolts and pull the coupler by putting a socket (just smaller than the shaft diameter) between the shaft and the engine and tightening the nuts on the bolts as if you were reinstalling the coupler. If you tighten each bolt a little at a time, the process should pull the coupler. Don't lose the tapered key that locks the coupler to the shaft.
If you come up with a better idea, I hope you'll let us know.
 
Lenny
The prop will come off. It may be close but it will come off. I was in touch with a LTD in British Columbia called the Camble prop something. When I was at that point in my project I read an article in Practical Sailor about this thin three bladed prop and they praised it highly for performance and drag. The people there were very helpful. I am very happy with the prop and the cost is reasonable. If you want me to I will dig up the names and phones for you.
 
<div>Lenny,For my money it is easier to drop the rudder than pull the coupler off the shaft having just done both. If you can't get the prop off without doing one or the other go for the rudder - three bolt on the lower rudder bearings, 4 bolts on the quadarant, easy the rudder down with levers (2x4s) and reverse the procedure to put it back together. It will give you the oportunity to re-pack the rudder post. It took me about an hour and change to drop the rudder (mostly standing straight up) and it took about 2 hours to remove the coupling (mostly bent like a pretizel with blood on my nuckles). Go for the rudder.I would be very interested in the infomation you have on the thin prop and your evaluation of its performance once the job is finished.Fairwind and Rum Drinks,Vic C.
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I read with interest your desire for the sailing prop. Is it the Prowell Sailprop? That's the one I've decided to go with. It's cheaper than the Maxprop and yet the same, even better because of fewer moving parts, in water adjustment, a dedicated grease fitting and cheap zincs. They've got one on a 383 somewhere here in the Chesapeake. I'll keep you posted as it goes on.
 
No, I'm looking at the Campbell Sailor, which is a fixed-blade prop. A three-blade, 16" prop goes for under $400. How much does the Prowell Sailprop cost for our boats?
 
<div>In fact the prop I'm seriously considering is probably the one you have: the Campbell Sailor Propeller, made in British Columbia. (www.westbynorth.com on the web, and sailer@westbynorth.com for e-mail)Did you get a 16" or 17" prop? How does it work for driving the boat in forward and reverse? Can you notice any difference in sailing speed compared to the old prop? Any difference in steering under sail? (Ted Brewer told me that he was concerned the large prop that came with the Perkins 4-108 M-38s would compromise steering because of all the turbulance associated with the prop--and it's so close to the rudder.)

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Lenny
Just read that you are going with the Campbell Sailor Prop. Great choice. I love it. If you need info as to how to get in touch with Campbell hit my e-mail and I will dig it out for you. I will get e-mail faster then this message board.
Truly
 
Lenny
this is an after thought. I discovered that matching a prop with a boat and an engine is an exacting science. Westerbeke and Campbell were asking me questions that I could not answer. That is why I suggested that they talk to each other. Be sure that you get what you need for your engine, transmission tourque specifications.
 
I've just dropped the big ones. The Prowell Sailprop is an adjustable 3 blade feathering prop. Like MaxProp, they have 2 vers. One is set at the factory and the other is adjustable in the water. However, I don't think the hub of the adjustable is going to fit in the aperture. It's 8 3/4" long. The standard model, cheaper, is only 4" which would definitely fit. I chose this prop because I want a feathering prop and I came into the extra bucks to buy it. Others on the BB have mentioned how great theirs are and I thank those on the board for their input. After much discussion that I wanted 2 blades due to prop efficiency, I accepted the explanation of 3 blades vs 2.
The prop is not cheap - $2166 vs $2800 for the Maxprop.
The prop was chosen by Nigel Caulder for his former boat. I was reminded of his article on the prop in Sail Mag, March 78. I'll post a note this spring of the outcome. In the process, I'm doing the cutlass and rudder bearings. My work's cut out for me for the next weekends.
 
I knew they were expensive, but had no idea it was this much. I would appreciate hearing from anyone who has considered or has insstalled an AutoProp, which is a constantly adjusting prop that was highly rated by MIT and Practical Sailor when they did an analysis. I am sure I cannot afford one of these either, but maybe someday. Thanks.
 
Terry -- I did some back-and-forthing with the folks at AutoProp a couple of years ago. I appears that their prop will not fit in the M-38x cut-out in the skeg because of the way the blades move as the prop feathers. You might check with them to be sure.
 
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