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Partial Refit

stevebguy

Stephen Guy
Our M384 hull#2 is kept in Northeast Harbor, Maine. We are
about to address several items and would like comments. These
are some current ideas.
1. Sails - Replace the 150% genoa with a 135% on the new Harken
furler we installer last year. We have no inboard tracks, so
the smaller LP you have, the greater the sheeting angle and the
3 or 4 sailmakers I have talked to recommended the 135. I
talked with Ted Brewer about adding some power back by enlarging
the main. We have the 13' boom that came with the taller masts,
not the original 14.5'. It is also 1' higher. I am considering
a longer, lower boom, with a full length batten main. Perhaps a
Leisure Furl unit. They get some pretty good reviews. The
sailmakers say a new main with better shape, even though larger,
should not add weather helm. Thoughts???
2. Dodger - The original dodger shape has more tumblehome in the
sides than those you see on newer boats. I am considering new
bows that are more vertical on the sides for more volume under
the dodger. The Island Nautical design for the boat is a little
different, but has the same tumblehome. Has anyone done this,
what canvas shop, and do you like the results?
3. Bimini - We currently have no bimini, but make great use of a
cockpit awning. Can't sail with it of course. I think we want
the bimini to overlap over the dodger in the front leaving a
slot for visibility and extending aft to within a few inches of
the backstays. I have seen this design on a number of boats and
it seems to work pretty well and give maximum coverage. I think
a bimini this long can not be supported with single deck attach
points, and as you know, those are usually put too near the
winches and can cause handle clearance problems. I am thinking
fore and aft deck anchor points with fastpins in the forward
ones allowing folding the whole unit back against the back.
Seems I have seen something like this on an M38, but of course,
took no pictures. What about mounting it on the outside
vertical sides of the combings instead of on the wood on top of
the combings. It would make it a little wider. Problems may be:
a) All these bows may make cockpit access too difficult.
b) Folding all this back may not work very well.
c) Outside mounting puts shear forces on the mountings instead
of compression. May not be worth the extra few inches of width
and could make folding back a greater problem.
Anyone have a design similar to this and who made it and how
does it work?
4. New Instruments - Currently above the compass at the helm.
Would like to move to a horizontal pod under the dodger on the
deck at the forward end of the companionway. Edson makes 15"
and 20" pods or have a wood one made. Problems may include
mounting the pod and leading the cables through the deck to it.
Maybe put sterero speakers in each end too. Has anyone done
this, how, and with what results?
Thanks in advance for any info and experience you can share.
Glenn Wiggins 800-222-3002 rgw@wiggins.com
 
Glenn, I have a custom pod installed on top of the sea hood that covers the companionway hatch -- I'll share some 20-20 hindsight. That location is a good choice for obvious reasons, but it suffers from two big problems -- wiring inaccessibility and the necessity to run all wires in a way that avoids contact with the hatch sliding in and out. My wires are attached at 8" intervals to the underside of the sea hood as they run to the forward end of the sea hood, past the place where the hatch has a positive stop. There they turn down, go thru the deck and travel aft along the space between the vinyl overhead and the underside of the deck. This involves removal of two overhead panels and the sea hood in order to access everything -- a pain. With 20-20 hindsight I see that it would be far easier, and better, to install one or more plastic tubes between the sea hood and the overhead, to pull wires in. Also, if these tubes were installed inside and against the aft edge of the sea hood, they would penetrate the deck in the area above the nav station. The tubes would thus be very short, making it possible to snake the tubes above the overhead to an accessible location without completely removing the overhead, a real plus. If you were to include a spare tube with a pull string installed in it, future installation of another instrument or speakers would be quite simple.
Good luck with your refit -- I'm about half way into mine.

 
I replaced an old baggy 275 Sq.Ft. Main with a new 8.3 Oz, 337 Sq.Ft, top two battens full length, main. This sail gains the sixty SqFt in the leach and is held very well by the two top full battens. The result is more balanced power across different windspeeds with very little weatherhelm, The difference between the old baggy and the new one are night and day especially in regard to weatherhelm. I find this sail very manageable in regard to reefing and furling and would recomend that if you change the boom or add mainboom furling that you get a strong recomendation from someone with one or your "sailmaker" will stand by it completely, and not just for the $6,000. plus sale.
I would greatly appreciate your observations on the change to the 135% Rf Genoa, as I am strongly considering the same thing. With my New main, the baggy 150% Rf Genoa
is too much sail and causes alot of weather helm and heel.
 
I would have significant second thoughts about adding boom length to a 383. The sail area is all in the wrong place, and so won't do you much good anyway. If you are reaching, better to put up a reacher or cruising spinnaker. I am no designer, but I would bet it would do nothing but possibly upset balance. A new main, of the right shape, will help lots, without the risks. I know nothing about inboom furling, except what I read. Doesn't sound worth it to me, but then I sail on a pretty tight budget (unless you ask my spouse, who no longer feels guilty about money she spent on a new Klein bicycle, which pales in comparison to my regular outlays.) Good luck. I hve instruments on the forward cabin bulkhead, in the traditional location. It isn't quite so modern, but I can read everything from the helm and I do not worry about wire runs or somebody kicking the instruments off their mounts.
 
Bimini question
My bimini covers the whole cockpit area with a slot between the dodger and the bimini. I have it mounted on the top of the combing. I have no problems under sail with a view or winch handles. I put a "see through" into the top so I could see the top of the mast. The whole thing sits on one set of supports. I installed a second set of mounts forward enough so I can fold the bimini and move it to the forward mounts and store the whole thing forward of the dodger. I love the set-up. contact me e-mail if you want more info. CaptBobE@aol.com
I dont know if I would build a bigger main. Research it a whole lot before you spend the bucka and then have to have it cut down. I fly a full main with 3/ battons and It is all that I want to handle. You may want to handle more. Remember you cant outsail your hull speed. In 10-15 kts I am doing 6 1/2 t0 7/12 kts. I cant ask for anything more. A larger sail is harder to handle. Just my thoughts.
I fly a 135 also sheeted at the outside track. No probles with that set-up. a lot of times just out and around I fly only the genoa and the boat still balances. The Morgan 38 is some sailing boat.
Keep in touch.
 
<div>I tend to agree with Bob. I often need to let the main on my M384 hull #9, luft to keep from over powering the boat. North Wind also likes the head sail for balence and I think would have more weather helm with a biger main. My main is also fully battened.rememeber it's not how much sail you can carry but how little.Rod

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