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Interior cabin wall plywood

D

dgh462

Dennis Honeycutt
<div>Has anyone replaced the plywood teak venier on the interior
cabin sides? Due to portlights leaking, mine have gone a bit
soft in places and could do with replacement. Was wondering how
much of a pain it is to pull off the old ply and replace it.
The yard wanted $1700 dollars to do the job! Now that my
Newfound Metals portlights are on their way, this would be the
perfect time to replace the cabin wall venier. Fred
#167
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Fred,
I had the same problem with the veneer where the portlights mount. I epoxied the soft spots and cemented light colored formica over the existing plywood veneer, then installed the NFM portlights. Brightened up the interior and I think it looks good.
Regards
RCL
 
<div>Robert,
Thanks, I also intended to use laminate. When you epoxied the soft spots, I assume you removed the rotted wood then used epoxy filler? What was the degree of difficulty in getting the laminate lined up and how did you handle the area around the deadlights where the interior trim around the deadlights extrudes beyond the surface of the cabin wall plywood venier? Was this piece of window trim removed before the laminate was installed? If so, was it easy to remove?Fred
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<div>Fred, That's a good idea to replace the teak veneer plywood on the sides of the interior adjacent to the ports! I haven't done this particular job, but I have relined several of the port and starboard lockers/shelves with teak veneer plywood. It's easily obtainable, although pretty expensive, as I recall. I should think that you could pull exsisting plywood off by removing all the retaining screws, and use it as a pattern to cut a new strip to match. Then predrill the new piece and screw it back on! Sounds like the perfect time to do this and I really don't think it would be too big a job. I've heard that several others have replaced their ports with the new stainless type, and have considered this too, but my old ports seem to be holding up pretty well so I guess I'll wait. Good luck.</div>
 
Fred,
I fit strips of laminate that were to wide aligning the top edge. Then cemented it and trimmed the bottom. I removed the trim and repalced the deadlights with new 1/2" lexan, also made chrome palted trim rings. This was one of several winter projects. When I get the boat launched in May I will photograph everything I've done and post.
Regards
RCL (Moonraker)
 
Fred: Yes I have replaced the interior portlight pywood teak veneer with the same type material. It was a major job, you attach withchiesela and crow bares and keep the pieces together for a pattern. Seems to me I needed 2- 4 by 8 sheets for the job to do it right. It is also a problem in color matching the old( Rest of boat) with the new as newer seem to have more green in it. With experamentation with stains mine came out quite well. Also not if you seem to have a stain on the port area next to head that is because the ply Morgon installed ran to the head por and when(not if)it leaks the water wicks down into the cabin. You should address this whatever you are doing. Good luck
 
I had the same problem so when I installed new Stainless ports (while the old ports were out) I cut back the bad plywood the used hull and deck putty to fill it in, then sanded it it flush before cementing on an off white formica. It really brightened up the cabin but the hull & deck cures like rock and was a lot of work to fair down. Well worth it in the end though.
Good luck
 
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