Gentlemen,
I thought it's mighty time I finally sit down and report the refit completed on Papeche, '78 Morgan 382 #046, after sailing to Europe and back for an approx 13500nm of navigation.
For what it's worth, I thought you'd might find all this info and reasoning for the gear beneficial to our group as a whole seeing that our boats are averaging 25yr/old.
At the big-picture level, I replaced the following:
-standing rigging with new roller furler and new genoa
-new 40hp Nanni Diesel Model 4195
-new shaft, coupler, cutlass bearing and PSS dripless system, refurb of my Sailprop.
-modified rudder to increase wetted surface in line with 383/4 models, of course new packing.
-new Edson Classic steering pedestal with cables and runs
-many electric upgrades
-Mast tri-color
-new 14' Forespar whisker pole
-8 running rigging lines replaced
-and of course the electronics died and needed upgrading
- one empty wallet...totalling around $21k of upgrades and mods.
You probably are all saying that's too much investment in these ol' boats - but from my point of view, I've owned the boat over 10yrs, it's paid for, she'd venerable, trustworthy and with refit worth more than I paid for her. I'm not out to make money if I were to sell her, but I would break even in the end having sailed for 12 yrs...and I'm not about to sell Papeche, so I really have another 20yrs of boat.
To break it down -
-Profurl Roller furling and Stalok rigging terminals - I was finally convinced that my old TwinStay, albeit still working fine at 28 yrs is due for separation failure. I didn't want to take another bluewater trip and test that experience, so I went with the recommended N42 series. Being a delivery skipper and part-time charter skipper in the islands, I see these units everywhere and their reputation is on target. That said, the rigger told me that all the modern units are perfectly good today.
Stalok vs swage - well there's a good argument that the old one's lasted 28 yrs why bother with the expense of mechanical. Albeit valid, in foreign lands, which is my thing, try finding a swaging machine of any quality. Mechanical is the way to go.
-Engine replacement
The old Yanmar 3QM30F experienced a vapor lock overheating about 500nm out of Bermuda on the east bound leg of the the trans-At. The hot water hoses under the floor boards sprung a leak and the crew did not note the bilge action...engine overheated, problems ever since with white smoke, which indicates water in the cylinders. Did that actually happen, I don't know - but my engine never ran right again. It costs approx $4000 to rebuild with labor, yard, crane etc... I got offered a sweet deal on a new engine for $7800, which after the Yanmar sale for $1500, makes it that I got a new engine for $5300. So the way I see it is a new engine vs new for $1300 difference...no brainer in my book.
The Nanni diesel is a 4 cyl 4195model, Kubota based engine marinized by the Italians. It's the EU boatbuilders fighting off the high-cost of Yanmar and Volvo. The Nanni is eco friendly in that it burns the fuel more efficiently and supposedly emits less gases. Fuel efficiency is on par with all other brands. This engine turns at 3200. My ol' 3 thumper vibrated quite a bit with old mounts. The new engine is much quieter and smoother, as with all the new 4 bangers on the market. The Nanni choice was based on the exact footprint as the Yanmar, similar weight, and Kubota parts found in any farm store in the world. Yanmar Marine has lost that touch.
- a new shaft was turned for $165 at a local shop. I replaced it due to the pitting, albeit not severe, and desire for all new and true. I had the old one trued while in France, but even so, when I got home, the shop said the shaft was off...I don't know.
PSS dripless was a really scarey decision. But they have become standard equipment on so many new boats of brand name, that I figured the engineering is there. Besides, no more drips. I had experienced a very fine mist sea water over the entire engine while "out there"...this will stop that.
If you're going to replace all that, a $50 cutlass bearing is stupid not to replace. It's really not a hard job we have all commented on.
The German 3-blade feathering Sailprop had to be repitched adding "3 inches"!!! of pitch and could use a bit more. That told me how beat up that old Yanmar really was - I was at 17x9 and now 17x12Fx12R. The old bird would smoke black at 2800rpms. All that's gone. Now, 2400 rpms is just under hull speed and no effort on the engine.
- Rudder mod
I've mentioned this before but will re-iterate it.
I drained it thoroughly - drilled holes in the bottom and top to get drainage. The thing weighs a ton! I let it dry out for 6 months. I had a local boat builder do the mod for $500. We added the 8" on top and I added 5" below which increased the overall size by probably 4 sq ft more of rudder.
Doesn't sound like much, but the helm is much lighter and I am confident it will be beneficial in a following sea. The noted difference will facilitate the autopilot and windvane. Obviously, backing down is facilitated.
- New pedestal
The old Orion was built right here in Severna Park in the 70's right where I live. I had a stress crack where the axle comes out from the windvane torquing the spot over so many miles. I needed to replace the steering cables that had some meat-hooks at the quadrant. In the process of dismantling the system to get the chain/cable assy out of the pedestal, I discovered that the bronze shaft was bent. I could not get it out. 4 bolts later, the pedestal came out of the boat. To replace it was really quite simple as long as you exactly mark the emplacement of the new one to ensure proper alignment. It would be silly to have your wheel off by 1/4". I replaced the cables and races without a problem modifying the existing hardware to accept the new races. End result is silky smooth steering. Edson is not cheap and unfortunately the only game in town for us by my homework. The Classic Edson series is a perfect fit and I would recommend spending the extra couple of hundred dollars for the bearing version vs the nylon friction model. Seeing that I sail by windvane on passage, I needed the extra. All those bits came to around $1300.
- Electricals
In the process of taking out the engine and the spaghetti that went to the old panel, I probably took out 200 yds of old cabling!! amazing! I moved the Heart inverter to the port locker above the fridge unit, on the same bulkhead - the lines are well within the specs for footage from batteries etc. In doing so, I shifted that weight out of the engine room where the electrician installed it before - it was a really stupid place to put it before, but I was so green, I didn't know and told the guy to put it where it "should go"...
Years and experience now tells me that the unit can go there, but right over a spraying drippy shaft bearing is not too prudent. It's now high and dry. I also rewired much of the grounding system and the whole neutral system.
- while the mast was out of hte boat this past spring, I installed a new LED tri-color. What a gizmo! puts the Hella Light to shame as far as beauty of craftmanship...unfortunately, I shorted it out while installing the 3-way switch. It's fixable, I'm told. The internal diode is replaceable...of course after climbing aloft, taking it to the electronic guy etc. I have it wired so that I can use regular nav lites while in coastal waters and tri at sea and both as needed, which I would do in inclement wx. That puppy was $235, I believe and the switch $28.
- My wonderful girlfriend bought me a Forespar telesoping whisker pole for my birthday after hearing me complain how the 17 foot spin pole was such a pain to rig. Man! what a diff!
- with annual improvements, I finally replaced all the lines in the boom and the spinnaker car runs up and down the foremast. The halyards and sheets are still fine after all that sailing.
- I also replaced the Kenyon riffing system at the gooseneck - the new jam cleat system is so much better than those damn spring-loaded cleats. And thank you to who ever it was that made up the sheeves for the aft-section of the boom! Taking that apart was fun - 27yrs of corroded SS screws to aluminum. I squirted some break loose stuff and gave each screw a good whack with a hammer, came back five mins later and out they came... I didn't expect it to be that easy. I knew for sure I was going to be drilling at least one out - nope.
With the rigging upgrade, I also just ordered the Gerhauer Lite series triples for the mainsheet - my girlfriend is a lil thing - I'm looking forward to that upgrade.
A note here that Rig-Rite had a major fire this past spring and is really backlogged getting out new gear. My traveller ends are UV shot -it's funny to see the plastic sheeves worn out where they were exposed to sun.
Ditto for the end of the genoa track ends. Found some metal ones at Bacon's.
- finally, all that put back together I put the boat back in the water in early October! It's been one long hot summer rebuilding that boat.
Of course, once in, the old IMI Combi unit crapped out finally. So I ordered the new Navman series from Defender. I like this series over Raymarine or others for price, simple NMEA interface and not proprietary softwares - it enteracts with anyone's stuff via NMEA 0183 and none of that nonsense SeaTalk et al. Did you guys know that Navman was the original NZ company that supplied all the digital faces to Standard Radios among others for like the last 25 yrs? Neat factoid.
- and last but least - this is a "sail"boat, so I ordered a new genoa from Mack sails - I'm very impressed with workmanship, price, quickness, and good business. They make their sails right here in the good ol' USA - not shipped out. My sail is a 125% 6.7 Dacron with luff cushion and sacrificial cloth. $2300. I think my next main will come from there too.
Ok fellas - that's a ton of info for now.
I hope it helped some of you who are debating what to do next.
Obviously for time sake, I didn't go into the gory detail of each project, but if someone wants to know something - don't hesitate.
Now comes the fine tuning of all this stuff. I'd say I'm at 90% solution to setting off again as desired.
Believe it or not, I've got 2 naggly problems that I can't solve and those are in the next question to the board for help...
same bat channel...
Smooth sailing and fresh warm breezes!
Damn it snowed today in PA!!
Best to you all,
Capt Tony
'78 M382 #046
S/V Papeche
I thought it's mighty time I finally sit down and report the refit completed on Papeche, '78 Morgan 382 #046, after sailing to Europe and back for an approx 13500nm of navigation.
For what it's worth, I thought you'd might find all this info and reasoning for the gear beneficial to our group as a whole seeing that our boats are averaging 25yr/old.
At the big-picture level, I replaced the following:
-standing rigging with new roller furler and new genoa
-new 40hp Nanni Diesel Model 4195
-new shaft, coupler, cutlass bearing and PSS dripless system, refurb of my Sailprop.
-modified rudder to increase wetted surface in line with 383/4 models, of course new packing.
-new Edson Classic steering pedestal with cables and runs
-many electric upgrades
-Mast tri-color
-new 14' Forespar whisker pole
-8 running rigging lines replaced
-and of course the electronics died and needed upgrading
- one empty wallet...totalling around $21k of upgrades and mods.
You probably are all saying that's too much investment in these ol' boats - but from my point of view, I've owned the boat over 10yrs, it's paid for, she'd venerable, trustworthy and with refit worth more than I paid for her. I'm not out to make money if I were to sell her, but I would break even in the end having sailed for 12 yrs...and I'm not about to sell Papeche, so I really have another 20yrs of boat.
To break it down -
-Profurl Roller furling and Stalok rigging terminals - I was finally convinced that my old TwinStay, albeit still working fine at 28 yrs is due for separation failure. I didn't want to take another bluewater trip and test that experience, so I went with the recommended N42 series. Being a delivery skipper and part-time charter skipper in the islands, I see these units everywhere and their reputation is on target. That said, the rigger told me that all the modern units are perfectly good today.
Stalok vs swage - well there's a good argument that the old one's lasted 28 yrs why bother with the expense of mechanical. Albeit valid, in foreign lands, which is my thing, try finding a swaging machine of any quality. Mechanical is the way to go.
-Engine replacement
The old Yanmar 3QM30F experienced a vapor lock overheating about 500nm out of Bermuda on the east bound leg of the the trans-At. The hot water hoses under the floor boards sprung a leak and the crew did not note the bilge action...engine overheated, problems ever since with white smoke, which indicates water in the cylinders. Did that actually happen, I don't know - but my engine never ran right again. It costs approx $4000 to rebuild with labor, yard, crane etc... I got offered a sweet deal on a new engine for $7800, which after the Yanmar sale for $1500, makes it that I got a new engine for $5300. So the way I see it is a new engine vs new for $1300 difference...no brainer in my book.
The Nanni diesel is a 4 cyl 4195model, Kubota based engine marinized by the Italians. It's the EU boatbuilders fighting off the high-cost of Yanmar and Volvo. The Nanni is eco friendly in that it burns the fuel more efficiently and supposedly emits less gases. Fuel efficiency is on par with all other brands. This engine turns at 3200. My ol' 3 thumper vibrated quite a bit with old mounts. The new engine is much quieter and smoother, as with all the new 4 bangers on the market. The Nanni choice was based on the exact footprint as the Yanmar, similar weight, and Kubota parts found in any farm store in the world. Yanmar Marine has lost that touch.
- a new shaft was turned for $165 at a local shop. I replaced it due to the pitting, albeit not severe, and desire for all new and true. I had the old one trued while in France, but even so, when I got home, the shop said the shaft was off...I don't know.
PSS dripless was a really scarey decision. But they have become standard equipment on so many new boats of brand name, that I figured the engineering is there. Besides, no more drips. I had experienced a very fine mist sea water over the entire engine while "out there"...this will stop that.
If you're going to replace all that, a $50 cutlass bearing is stupid not to replace. It's really not a hard job we have all commented on.
The German 3-blade feathering Sailprop had to be repitched adding "3 inches"!!! of pitch and could use a bit more. That told me how beat up that old Yanmar really was - I was at 17x9 and now 17x12Fx12R. The old bird would smoke black at 2800rpms. All that's gone. Now, 2400 rpms is just under hull speed and no effort on the engine.
- Rudder mod
I've mentioned this before but will re-iterate it.
I drained it thoroughly - drilled holes in the bottom and top to get drainage. The thing weighs a ton! I let it dry out for 6 months. I had a local boat builder do the mod for $500. We added the 8" on top and I added 5" below which increased the overall size by probably 4 sq ft more of rudder.
Doesn't sound like much, but the helm is much lighter and I am confident it will be beneficial in a following sea. The noted difference will facilitate the autopilot and windvane. Obviously, backing down is facilitated.
- New pedestal
The old Orion was built right here in Severna Park in the 70's right where I live. I had a stress crack where the axle comes out from the windvane torquing the spot over so many miles. I needed to replace the steering cables that had some meat-hooks at the quadrant. In the process of dismantling the system to get the chain/cable assy out of the pedestal, I discovered that the bronze shaft was bent. I could not get it out. 4 bolts later, the pedestal came out of the boat. To replace it was really quite simple as long as you exactly mark the emplacement of the new one to ensure proper alignment. It would be silly to have your wheel off by 1/4". I replaced the cables and races without a problem modifying the existing hardware to accept the new races. End result is silky smooth steering. Edson is not cheap and unfortunately the only game in town for us by my homework. The Classic Edson series is a perfect fit and I would recommend spending the extra couple of hundred dollars for the bearing version vs the nylon friction model. Seeing that I sail by windvane on passage, I needed the extra. All those bits came to around $1300.
- Electricals
In the process of taking out the engine and the spaghetti that went to the old panel, I probably took out 200 yds of old cabling!! amazing! I moved the Heart inverter to the port locker above the fridge unit, on the same bulkhead - the lines are well within the specs for footage from batteries etc. In doing so, I shifted that weight out of the engine room where the electrician installed it before - it was a really stupid place to put it before, but I was so green, I didn't know and told the guy to put it where it "should go"...
Years and experience now tells me that the unit can go there, but right over a spraying drippy shaft bearing is not too prudent. It's now high and dry. I also rewired much of the grounding system and the whole neutral system.
- while the mast was out of hte boat this past spring, I installed a new LED tri-color. What a gizmo! puts the Hella Light to shame as far as beauty of craftmanship...unfortunately, I shorted it out while installing the 3-way switch. It's fixable, I'm told. The internal diode is replaceable...of course after climbing aloft, taking it to the electronic guy etc. I have it wired so that I can use regular nav lites while in coastal waters and tri at sea and both as needed, which I would do in inclement wx. That puppy was $235, I believe and the switch $28.
- My wonderful girlfriend bought me a Forespar telesoping whisker pole for my birthday after hearing me complain how the 17 foot spin pole was such a pain to rig. Man! what a diff!
- with annual improvements, I finally replaced all the lines in the boom and the spinnaker car runs up and down the foremast. The halyards and sheets are still fine after all that sailing.
- I also replaced the Kenyon riffing system at the gooseneck - the new jam cleat system is so much better than those damn spring-loaded cleats. And thank you to who ever it was that made up the sheeves for the aft-section of the boom! Taking that apart was fun - 27yrs of corroded SS screws to aluminum. I squirted some break loose stuff and gave each screw a good whack with a hammer, came back five mins later and out they came... I didn't expect it to be that easy. I knew for sure I was going to be drilling at least one out - nope.
With the rigging upgrade, I also just ordered the Gerhauer Lite series triples for the mainsheet - my girlfriend is a lil thing - I'm looking forward to that upgrade.
A note here that Rig-Rite had a major fire this past spring and is really backlogged getting out new gear. My traveller ends are UV shot -it's funny to see the plastic sheeves worn out where they were exposed to sun.
Ditto for the end of the genoa track ends. Found some metal ones at Bacon's.
- finally, all that put back together I put the boat back in the water in early October! It's been one long hot summer rebuilding that boat.
Of course, once in, the old IMI Combi unit crapped out finally. So I ordered the new Navman series from Defender. I like this series over Raymarine or others for price, simple NMEA interface and not proprietary softwares - it enteracts with anyone's stuff via NMEA 0183 and none of that nonsense SeaTalk et al. Did you guys know that Navman was the original NZ company that supplied all the digital faces to Standard Radios among others for like the last 25 yrs? Neat factoid.
- and last but least - this is a "sail"boat, so I ordered a new genoa from Mack sails - I'm very impressed with workmanship, price, quickness, and good business. They make their sails right here in the good ol' USA - not shipped out. My sail is a 125% 6.7 Dacron with luff cushion and sacrificial cloth. $2300. I think my next main will come from there too.
Ok fellas - that's a ton of info for now.
I hope it helped some of you who are debating what to do next.
Obviously for time sake, I didn't go into the gory detail of each project, but if someone wants to know something - don't hesitate.
Now comes the fine tuning of all this stuff. I'd say I'm at 90% solution to setting off again as desired.
Believe it or not, I've got 2 naggly problems that I can't solve and those are in the next question to the board for help...
same bat channel...
Smooth sailing and fresh warm breezes!
Damn it snowed today in PA!!
Best to you all,
Capt Tony
'78 M382 #046
S/V Papeche
