Discussion in 'Morgan 38 Background, History, Reference' started by struell, Mar 7, 2017.
Yanmar 3QM30 Service Manual
Thank you for posting the 3QM30 book. I have a copy that I keep on the boat. Now I have it at home as a reference. Well done!
I don't how many hours are on my 3QM30 that came with the boat but it started right up after sitting a number of years. Needs some love to look pretty, had to replace some old hoses, and of course replaced all fluids. Having also had a 3HM yanmar for many years I will say the 3QM is a bit louder and rougher but definitely more industrial and robust so I suspect it may outlive me - and the 3HM...
I have a broker friend whose brother has had a 382 for many years - when I told my fried I got mine he said Peter you could take that boat to Finland tomorrow....and he also said his brother put over 20,000 hours on his 3QM!
We have a little over 6,000 hours on our 3QM30. Still working fine. I would recommend that you carry in your spare inventory a fuel lift pump. Over time the pump membrane becomes porous and can't supply enough fuel at idle speeds. With a spare on board you may save a cruise. In 30 years we've replaced ours twice.
My 3QM had an electric fuel pump that came on with the key switch. I never had a problem with this setup.
Pretty sure that had to be an aftermarket setup. The original rode on lobe of the cam shaft. The bad thing about it, when the diaphragm went bad the whole pump had to be replaced. You can't change the rubber diaphragm. Your new engine has the electric pump also?
That's good advice Jim, thanks. I was also going to ask if you had the electric pump in addition as I have seen that on some boats. My boat does not.
6000 hours is great to hear - have you had to do any major work to it beyond routine fluids, filters, belts and heat exchanger zincs?
I did the barnacle buster bath which I think was a good thing to do. Also had to change out the fresh water cooling hoses as she started leaking anti-freeze and after worrying the sky was falling I figured out the source. About $30 in hoses and some raw knuckles fixed what was otherwise looking like a major calamity.
Oh, and my exhaust manifold raw water drain valve is completely corroded (not sure if in shut or open position as lever is gone). It looks like a big blob of rust so I am working up the courage to gently try to get it off without damaging the manifold after some big anticorrosion soak time.
On my Pearson's Yanmar 3HJ i had to replace engine mounts (one bolt was completely sheared which explained the excessive noise sometimes - and could have been a real problem if we ran aground). Also had to change out some corroded metal fuel lines. Rest was just fluids, filters, and belts and frequent cleaning of ground connections or she had trouble starting.
The electric pump was definetly aftermarket. One of the previous owners made that change. My new engine has a mechanical pump.
I put an electric pump in the fuel line for priming the filters instead of hand pumping with the lift pump thumb lever. It also is used to fill a 6 gallon diesel tank for the Espar heater. I guess it could also be a back up for the lift pump if need be. Dana's engine hasn't had any major work done in the 30 years we've owned her. New injectors, new seals on the injector pump, new exhaust elbow, oil & fuel filter changes every 100 hours. Every other year the head bolts are torqued, and the valves adjusted, the raw water pump has had the seals replaced a number of times. Hoses are changed all the time. We keep at least three spares of the hoses. The motor mounts have been changed 8 years ago. The starboard forward mount takes the worst punishment because of the diesel fuel that always spills while changing the on engine filter. Last summer the salt water side was flushed with "Barnacle Buster", which made a big difference in the engine's cooling. I've always been told that with good maintenance, the Yanmar should last for 10,000 hours. We're counting on that. My only worry is that parts for it are getting harder and harder to find.
Any chance of you and Kathleen coming up our way this summer?
I replaced that drain valve on the exhaust manifold many years ago. The problem was the threads into the manifold are metric. I used a regular bronze petcock type valve with NPT threads. But had to make a NPT to Metric close nipple to install it.
We may be able to go that way. I expect to retire from my job of the last 38 years then I plan to go to work for a service company. It depends upon the health of my parents and my mother-in-law. I'll give you plenty notice if we can make it.
Jim, thanks for sharing your experiences and insights. Hope to keep mine going a long time as well! Peter
I have a three questions I need your help on. I found a diesel mechanic willing to work on my 3QM30F finally. 1. Is the service manual in this thread above the same as the repair or mechanic manual he might need?
He is going to adjust the valves, clean out the exhaust manifold and replace the fuel lift pump. All preventive work.
My primary fuel filter is out of the dark ages. 2. Has anyone replace theirs and if so, what did you buy to replace it and 3. where was it mounted?
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