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Yanmar cooling water pump

jimcleary

James M. Cleary
Help! The cooling water pump on my Yanmar 3QM30H is weeping. I'm going to have it rebuilt but I want to have another on board when we go south. Went through Mack Boring to get a new pump but they say there are no more available. Does anyone have a lead as to where I can get another pump, either new or used? Thanks!
 

dickkilroy

Richard Kilroy
Jim: I would try the other Yanmar wholesalers in the U.S. I think Mastery Marine in Florida is one. They may have another you can have rebuildt from a dead engine. If not get a set of what ever parts are available, especialy if whoever is redoing it is making gaskets.

Remember this part is 30+ years and a rebuildt one hopefully will last at least half that, and will cover your trip.

Dick
 

jimcleary

James M. Cleary
Dick & Jim
Thanks for the leads. I'm going to start calling in the morning. If I can get an older pump that I can rebuild as a second one to carry on board I'll be happy.
 

stnick

lee nicholas
Have any of you guys tried Globe impellers. They are made of blue poly not rubber and can run dry with out damage..
I have used them on my Sabre for 8 pluss years..Ya used to be able to buy them right from the company , but i think they changed to dealer net work only Depco pump on Calumet ave Clearwater .



If any of you guys know sailors looking for a good boat I have a 82 28 ft Sabre in perfect condition for sale Lee Nicholas
727 741 8510 my cell
 

jimcleary

James M. Cleary
OK! I've been on the phone with all these leads with no success. Seems Yanmar has discontinued the manufacture of this pump and there aren't any new ones available world wide. My hopes are to find one that I can have rebuilt. Again, if anyone knows somewhere that a pump may be available, please let me know.
 

maluhia

Jim Ball

http://www.ebay.com/sch/Boat-Parts-/26443/i.html?_nkw=pump+water+yanmar

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yanmar-water-pump-assembly-raw-seawater-new-and-unused-2-3-cyl-up-1989-/171065746059?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_BoatEquipment_Accessories_SM&hash=item27d450228b
 

dickkilroy

Richard Kilroy
Jim: Tried Old Port Launch in Newport R.I., very Old Yanmar dealer and Niemic marine New Bedford( New England Parts for Yanmar), neither had any suggestions other than internet and checking other dealers for a dead engine. Sorry! Happy hunting and good luck.

Dick
 

jimcleary

James M. Cleary
Dick
Thank you for touching those bases for me. I truly appreciate your help. So far I have had no joy in locating a pump either new or old. I am heading down the river to New Jersey for a week then when I get back I'll have my existing pump rebuilt and probably carry a rebuild kit with us as we go South in the fall.
 

jimcleary

James M. Cleary
Jim
That pump is belt driven. The one I'm searching for is engine driven. If worse comes to worse I may have to adapt a belt driven unit to the engine. I really don't want to have to get a new engine because a water pump isn't available. Thanks for the help.

Jim
 

saillavie

Larry Pisko
I'm reviving this thread as I too am experiencing a weeping raw water pump. Jim, were you successful in your quest to find a replacement pump? Or adapt another pump to do the job? Does anyone have any updated suggestions? Are rebuild kits still available?

The previous owner had a rebuilt 3QM30 installed back in the late 90's. A few years back, I replaced the impeller. But the impeller according to the Yanmar parts catalog didn't fit. I ended up with a larger 12 blade Yanmar impeller - which makes me wonder if there's another pump that might fit.

Larry
 

jimcleary

James M. Cleary
Larry
I have not been successful finding a raw water pump, either new or used, for the 3QM30. My existing pump has had new bushings installed for the second time and is holding fine. We just put over 600 hours on it this winter. The consensus is that the bushings weep because the pump shaft is worn. The answer is to have a machine shop manufacture a new shaft when the problem gets severe.

Jim
 

Duane

New Member
Larry
I have not been successful finding a raw water pump, either new or used, for the 3QM30. My existing pump has had new bushings installed for the second time and is holding fine. We just put over 600 hours on it this winter. The consensus is that the bushings weep because the pump shaft is worn. The answer is to have a machine shop manufacture a new shaft when the problem gets severe.

Jim
Hi Jim,
This is an answer to a very old post but there is an alternate way to repair the shaft rather than replace. It can be lathed down a few thousands of an inch hard chromed and ground to original specs. Cheaper that replacing.
 

jimcleary

James M. Cleary
Duane
That is an interesting concept. Who would be able to do this kind of job? Would a regular machine shop have the capability? I have a local shop where the guy told me that when the bushings no longer seal correctly, just bring in the pump and he'll make a new shaft. Of course he never mentioned how much that would cost.

Jim
 

Duane

New Member
Here is a local (SoCal) company that will grind the shaft undersize per specs. http://paramountgrind.com/ and here is one that does plating; http://cppginc.com/
I think Canyon Plating could actually do both.
We have used this method to repair machine shafts for years but haven't had to do any lately. I'm pretty sure you can find companies like this all over the country. Hard chrome probably makes the shafts better than new.
I may need to get this done depending on whether our impeller is bad or if our pump is bad.
 

jimcleary

James M. Cleary
Duane
Thanks for the idea. When the time comes to remake the pump shaft, I will look into doing this way as opposed to having a new shaft machined. I will be interested to find out which method will be less expensive. As the original pump is now 42 years old, I don't feel that how long the repaired shaft can last will be an issue.

Jim
 
Another option might be to turn the shaft down slightly and just build a new bushing to fit. A cheap and easy machine shop process. I am not familiar with that pump, so if I am talking out my a** , nevermind ;)
Mitchell
 

Duane

New Member
Duane
Thanks for the idea. When the time comes to remake the pump shaft, I will look into doing this way as opposed to having a new shaft machined. I will be interested to find out which method will be less expensive. As the original pump is now 42 years old, I don't feel that how long the repaired shaft can last will be an issue.

Jim
Looking at our records, we had new bushings replaced at an automotive repair shop a couple of years ago when we had the heat exchanger flushed. I can send details with a bushing number if you are interested. We had an overheating issue after our haul-out last week and I found the thermostat was blocked. On our boat, there is no thermostat in that manifold. Still seems to show a running temperature of 200 degrees. Should I replace the temperature sending unit and gauge and see if that is the problem? Plenty of raw water passing out of the boat.
 

jimcleary

James M. Cleary
Duane
Replacing the bushings on the water pump shaft is a fairly easy job. I keep a number of them in stock in case there is a sudden need of them. The problem is that the pump shaft is worn and the bushing only holds the leaks back for a year or two before failing. When the shaft is worn to the point where the bushings no longer stop the leaking, then I'll have to make some kind of modification to the shaft. Just ordering a new shaft or whole pump is no longer an option.
The Yanmar should be running between 170 and 180 degrees when you are running at cruising RPMs. If it's running hotter then that then either the temp sensor is faulty or the salt water ports are clogged. I had an overheating issue a couple of years ago and one of the guys here on the board suggested I run Barnacle Buster through the salt water side. I did that and now have difficulty getting the engine up to 170 degrees after running all day. Life is good!!

Jim
 

Duane

New Member
Duane
Replacing the bushings on the water pump shaft is a fairly easy job. I keep a number of them in stock in case there is a sudden need of them. The problem is that the pump shaft is worn and the bushing only holds the leaks back for a year or two before failing. When the shaft is worn to the point where the bushings no longer stop the leaking, then I'll have to make some kind of modification to the shaft. Just ordering a new shaft or whole pump is no longer an option.
The Yanmar should be running between 170 and 180 degrees when you are running at cruising RPMs. If it's running hotter then that then either the temp sensor is faulty or the salt water ports are clogged. I had an overheating issue a couple of years ago and one of the guys here on the board suggested I run Barnacle Buster through the salt water side. I did that and now have difficulty getting the engine up to 170 degrees after running all day. Life is good!!

Jim
Hi Jim,
How did you go about flushing Barnacle Buster through your system? I was wondering if you could just close the through hull and start the engine and pour it into the sea water strainer and quickly shut the engine overnight.
 

jimcleary

James M. Cleary
Duane
The Barnacle Buster needs to be run through the engine for about 4 hours. To do that I installed a 12V pump at the top of a five gallon bucket. The salt water impeller was removed from the engine pump housing and the housing cover replaced. The intake hose from engine pump was removed and became the discharge hose for the pump in the bucket. The salt water discharge hose from the exhaust manifold to the mixing elbow was removed from the mixing elbow, extended, and run back into the five gallon bucket. The circuit for the BB now runs from the bucket through the salt water pump housing and piping through the heat exchanger, into and through the exhaust manifold and back to the bucket. With a mixture of the BB and water in to bucket (the directions on the BB container will tell you how much to mix) it is now time to start the 12V pump. It took a couple of starts of the pump to get a flow going through the circuit. Once the flow runs, leave it going for the four hours. The color of the liquid will turn black as it cleans out the water ports. It worked great for me. Let me know if there is any more that I can help with.

Jim
 

Duane

New Member
Perfect, will let you know how it works. I've got to get a 2" hose reducer and connectors and may get a chance to work on it tomorrow.
 

jimcleary

James M. Cleary
Duane
You shouldn't need the 2" reducer. There is a small hose coming off the exhaust manifold that feeds the cooling water into the mixing elbow and into the exhaust. That is the hose you take off the mixing elbow and extend it back into the bucket. You don't need to remove the 2" exhaust hose at all. If your mixing elbow is old, that may be a source of your engines running hot. If that is the case the BB will not be the solution. The original mixing elbows were/are cast steel are are prone to rusting up and restricting the flow of the cooling water into the exhaust. If that is the case try: exhaust elbows.com. He makes very nice Stainless Steel replacement elbows. Just tell him the engine model and he will send you one.

Jim
 

Duane

New Member
Jim,
If you ever come out to Southern California, let me know. Would love to take you out on a sail and if you would be interested, you could use Buena Vida as a cheap hotel. Alamitos Bay has showers near the boats and plenty of restaurants in walking distance.
I really appreciate your advice.
Duane
 

jimcleary

James M. Cleary
Duane
We appreciate the offer. If ever we get back to being able to travel freely, we may just take you up on it. By the same token, if you ever come to New York during the summer, we would love to take you sailing on Dana. I think you will find that sailing on Long Island Sound very different from California. Just let us know.

Don't go buying a new mixing elbow until you are sure that that is the problem. I would try the BB first and check the results before going on to the mixing elbow. Having just had a problem confront me where I spend $210 on a replacement part only to find a slightly corroded terminal was the culprit, I realize it's better to go one step at a time. And doing the cheapest solutions first.

Jim
 

Duane

New Member
Jim
I took your advice.
I bought a 5 gallon bucket from Home Depot and a bilge pump from West Marine and used Klean Strip Concrete and Metal Prep from Home Depot. According to the MSDS it is the same phosphoric acid as Barnacle Buster.
Had to buy a bit of hose to make the return to the bucket...

I used 4 gallons of fresh water for 1 container of Klean Strip (it costs about $14.00) and ran it overnight.

Yanmar now runs super cool!

Thank you for your excellent advice, greatly appreciated.
 

jimcleary

James M. Cleary
Duane

I'm so glad it worked for you. I also like the idea of using the Clean Strip stuff at $14 as opposed to the barnacle Buster at $70 a gallon. Well done.

Jim
 
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