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Windlass Install Update

schlepper

John m. Harrison
This is to update the board and also share with Richard Noddin on my windlass install. I have 135' of 8 plait rode, spliced to 50' of 5/16" galvanized chain, attached to a 35 lb. CQR. I'll try to post a pic of the setup. The windlass is mounted to a platform I made out of plywood, 1 x 2 oak strips, and fiberglass, resin, and Awlgrip. I also fashioned a forward locker hatch with a countersunk handle so I still have the original equipment full locker lid intact if I ever decide to do something different.... It seems to work fine so far, the rode-chain fall being fairly deep, i haven't yet had any issues and thanks to Lee Nicholas for his help and encouragement to keep going and 'gittr done'.... the Windlass in the setup I have, had to be mounted to Port, off centerline, otherwise, the rode and chain will be wrapping against the chromed 'toe' that projects forward which guides the rode & chain to drop in the anchor well... Hope this helps any other RC8-8 installers...
 

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struell

Stephen Ruell
Hi John:
Your windlass installation looks great. I am in process of installing the same Maxwell windlass RC8-8 with the 8 plait rode, and want to ask
how your anchor rode worked out as regards the drop into the original upper anchor compartment? Is there enough drop so that the rode behaves well when retrieving the anchor or do you have to help it?
Steve
 

schlepper

John m. Harrison
Stephen, I cut out the aft end of the anchor locker and tabbed and mechanically fastened a divider in the upper locker (angled so as to allow water to drain off, with a recess cut out of the divider so I can access the electrical connections on the windlass motor, and then repainted the entire upper locker in bilgekote white. I just put the 5200 with a caulk gun around the edges of it yesterday to give it a more finished look. I had not problem with the rode and chain falling into the now deeper aft end of the locker. I have not yet mounted a cleat on the windlass platform as I'm not sure I want that up there to catch toes, ankles, etc. and instead, might put a payee there... I'll tie the rode off on one of the port or starboard cleats. Somewhere in my media page on the site, you can see the progression of the previously rotted upper locker floor on the aft end, where I tabbed over the existing bulkhead and sealed off the anchor locker from the v-berth, built a false floor in the bottom of the anchor locker, drilled a drain hole so water can exit, and then was ready for the windlass install.... hope this helps. It sounds like a lot of stuff to do but if you do it in small steps, it's not so bad.
 

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Thanks, John, for the update!
Did you use the standard deck clearance model RC8-8 or the extra clearance one? I am seeing about 5" or more blocking necessary under the wIndlass and wonder how to get enough material to allow finger access to the plastic clamping ring (holding the gearbox to the fluted tube) and still have plenty of strength. If the 100mm dia. hole runs the length of the 5" thick blocking, it will be hard to get any decent grip on the clamping ring. Did you allow extra clearance via a larger hole beneath the upper blocks that the 3-1/4" studs go through? Or did you just counter bore for the nut/washer clearance. Seems as if one could pull out the existing studs and replace them with longer ones, but warranty might be voided (?).
Rick
 
HI John,
I revisited your video and now see where your extra motor clearance comes from with the elevated base plate. Thanks for a very helpful posting! I should have paid closer attention the first time I viewed it!
 

schlepper

John m. Harrison
My pleasure Richard. If I were to do it again, I might create an angle to the forward edge of the plate, sloping toward the bow and put a lip across the bottom for the forward part where the hatch meets the plate. for now, I have opted not to put a cleat on the pad next to the windlass as I do not want to use that as a spot to tie off while at anchor. The brackets underneath are strong, but I didn't engineer it to withstand the pressure of holding in a blow so will still use the port and starboard cleats to tie off. I may put a pad eye or a stainless ring (like on the sterns of power boats for skiing, towing, etc.) to then clasp the loose anchor chain to it when the anchor is in the pulpit and can take tension off of the windlass clutches. Oh, and when you do your install, pay close attention to the lubrication points in the manual. I did a dry fit of the whole contraption and left it temporarily installed for a couple of three weeks.... just in that short a time, it was hard to get the shaft/chain ring/capstan out of the motor gear housing!! I have sense gone back and lubed everything with marine waterproof grease and sprayed down all of the electrical connections with the corrosion block spray, etc.
 
John,
Would the forward end lip be supported from below by a beam above the old floor? Seems like a good choice. Looks like there could be a considerable downward loading moment at that area. I am still jockeying around in my head how to get all the geometry worked out. It's a bit of a challenge without lazers and transits etc. I am going to have to resort to the CAD program nonetheless.
You have done impressive work! You have helped a lot through your communications. Thanks very much!
 

stnick

lee nicholas
John , Im really proud of you doing your windless , You have mastered fiberglassing and Awlgrip painting .Your install looks like a Pro Job and works well . You did
Electrical with battery charging Cables to remote battery and all . And you installed a wireless remote to make the windless work, for alot less than the Maxwell people wanted ! . Job well done.
 
John,
I've just completed my windlass installation, and was curious about the 8-plait rode size that you (or anyone else reading this) use. I'm using 5/16" chain but seems as if 9/16 rope has adequate strength. Maybe 5/8" is better?
 

schlepper

John m. Harrison
Richard, it's a function of the chain ring being able to grab it sufficiently under the load of chain and anchor.... I am pretty sure mine is 5/8" on the rode. Please post pics of your install and how you did it!!!
 
Thanks, John! I'm going to go with 5/8" then. Seems also like it might be easier on the hands when you need to work it.
Ok, I'll post some pics and related text soon.
 
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