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windlass and staysail

bbeach

Bill Beach
<div>I'm prepping for a voyage. Any recommendations on a windlass? Are
they really that necessary or just convenient. I'm healthy but
don't want to throw out my back - haven't yet... I've got my eye
on a hand crank type at Bacon's but don't know where to put it if
I install the inner forestay.
That brings me to the foredeck. I believe in a detachable inner
forestay for storm try's. Any recommendations?Thanks. Ordered the bowrollers. The Simpson and Windline series
just don't look right. Looking forward to getting them soon.
Thanks for the tipoff on them.Happy sailing. Tony
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<div>Tony, There are some very good ideas on both windlass locations / anchor locker modifications and staysail installations in the archived postings.However, most of the posting do not mention the type of windlass. As stated in a previous posting after man handling 300 ft. of 5/16 chain, 600 ft. of nylon rode, and 3 anchors for hurricane Bonnie a windlass is much higher on my to do list.One of the things missing from the original set of postings on windlasses are details about the type of windlass installed. I would like to survey you that have installed windlasses: What make and model do your have?Wheather it is manual or electric?If electric did you install a third battery for it under the V berth to eliminate the long run of heavy cable? How did you intall the battery and exactly where?How did you back your windlass and/or build up the anchor locker to except your windlass?Were there alignment problems with the bow rollers and how did you over come these if any?How do you like your systems & if you were to start over what would you do different? Thanks,Vic Copelan
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Previous owner installed a maxwell (then called niilson) vertical capstan 700 series. Just behind the anchor locker, with a pipe going down into the lower chain locker.Backed up with marine plywood. Set it up on a teak pad. Alignment seems fine and fairly easy. It is necessary to open a new access hole into the lower locker and manually arrange the chain so it does not bind up, which I do not like because then I cannot run the windlass from the helm--which would be a real help when single handing from an anchorange in any kind of wind (as I had to do this sumnmer). I may someday rearrange that, but have not had time. (REad in Crusing World or Practical SAilor, however, that a little detergent on the chain will help with this problem. The niilson is a nice machine, but the 700 may be slightly underpowered for the boat and 45 lb CQR and the chain roade (5/16 " high test), but so far I have appreciated it. ONe other advanatage is you can release the line capstan and use it separate from the chain gypsy. Makes it a cinch to have someone put you up the mast, since the machine does the work. I run the winch off my house battery bank (2 Trojan 30s). I have heard conflicting views about a separate battery and it seems no problelm on the Morgan to run big wires, in any case. To insure enough power I run the engine whenever I run the windlass. Means that leaving under sail is noisey and not so elegant, but it is lots easier than pulling the rode. Practical Sailor in the last couple of years did a complete review of windlasses. All in all, it is a great luxury and since I like to be over anchored so I sleep better, may be it is really a necessity.
 
Don't have a windlass yet thats one of this winter projects I hope, a friend has a new model Simpson/Lawrence 900 model on a Tarton 40 currently in Venezwaula(spelling) and is very happy with it. THe 600 may be adequate for the Morgon and is $330 less.
Ted Brewer has a design for the cutter I have purchased it and installed it in 1992. it is a temporory inner forstay using an ABI fitting and a designed fitting that is sandwiched in the aft end of the anchor well with marine grade plywood and glassed in. This and the mast uint and and stay assembly were made up for me by Metalmast in Putnam Ct.
Also a Trysail goes on a seperate track on the mast and a storm jib or larger cutter sail is on the inner forestay.

 
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