I highly recommend the book "Sail and Rig Tuning" by Ivar Dedekam. It will have more than you need to know, and includes a technique for accurately measuring tension without buying an expensive Loos gauge.
The basic idea is this:
With the mast partners removed and the lower shrouds loose. adjust the backstay and uppers to get the mast plumb. If you are lucky you won't need to adjust the forestay. Raise a plumb bob from the main halyard to measure rake. 2" is indicated on the drawings. You can take the halyard to each rail to ensure it is plumb side-side. Then installed the mast partner.
Adjust everything including the lowers to hand tight. Then a couple turns at a time bring everything to about 10% of breaking, which IIRC is roughly 1500lbs. Sight up the mast to ensure it is still straight.
At this point go sailing in about 15 kts of wind. While sailing on one tack, notice that the leeward shrouds will be loose. Sight up the mast and notice the bend. Take up the slack in the leeward shrouds. Just take up the slack so they hold position. count how many turns you used. Then tack, and put the same number of turns in the other side.
Sight up the mast while sailing. if the center of the mast falls off and bows to leeward, tension the windward shrouds to bring it back straight. Put the same number of turns on the the other side.
Do not exceed 20% of breaking which is going to be about 2000 lbs. You will not get it perfect, don't put too much effort into trying.
I recommend no mast bend. I have experimented with everything from lots of bend to none, and lots of rack to the prescribed 2". It sails better straight, and with minimal rake.
Do not cover the turnbuckles. They should be exposed to the environment to prevent corrosion. You can use a minimal amount of electrical tape just to cover the cotter pins so they don't cut your legs as you walk by. Rinse them with fresh water often, and use a clean toothbrush to clean where the cable enters the swage.
Your boat looks gorgeous! I am jealous.
