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Pilot berth portlight

SV_Fortissimo

SV_Fortissimo

New Member
I purchased a Beckson 414 replacement portlight. After removing the old deteriorated light. The new light only had a 1” spigot. It appears it’s more like a 2” or 2-1/2” spigot. Should the plywood liner have such a gap? It appears the bilge pump pipe runs inside that wall. Sorry forgot to snap pic. Thank you all!!
 
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I'm doing the same. It appears the original had an extension grafted to the spigot. My new port arrived today. I'm afraid it isn't going to work either. All other ports are New Found Metals. I may see if they can supply something that will work.
I don't see how the gap between cockpit wall and bulkhead could be reduced.
 
I have Beckson port lights, yes, I think that one is a 2" length, a PO414-wc20, the rest are wc10, 1" length. All mine were too long and the extra protrusions were broken from being stepped on, just bad.
 
I think that has been the same problem with Sonata's 1/4 berth portlight. Age hasn't help either. I have a Bomar 414 in this position. It sure looks like the factory added to the spigot to get the required depth. The top is slightly less than the bottom. And as it protruded more, has been broken off. I just received a replacement of the same Bomar Grey series. I hope to be back on board soon. I'll let you all know what transpires.
 
When I replaced all the Grey Marine ports with Beckson ports the two units for the head and the quarter berth need a deeper spigot. I talked to Beckson on the phone and they made me those two units with the longer spigots needed. The only request was that they would not be returnable. The ports are perfect and they have lasted fine. Beckson also have rain shields for all their ports which allow the ports to stay open until the rain starts blowing horizontal.

Jim
 
Jim,
Good info on Beckson.

I got to the boat yesterday afternoon. Tried fitting the new Bomar Grey port, which is supposed to be a direct replacement for the old. Not a fit. It is very slightly larger in the height, and while the spigot is deep enough to get to the cockpit surface, it's not enough with the trim ring in place.
The original has a deeper spigot.
I suspect Morgan had them custom made by Grey.
I'll call Bomar/Pompanette tomorrow and perhaps Beckson and NFM.
Frustrating.
 
Mitchell

I originally dealt with Bomar/Pompanette when I went to replace the Grey ports. the people (multiple) there were morons. They didn't know their own product. That's why I went to Beckson. The people there knew what I wanted and needed and they worked with me to get the job done. For your mental health, skip to Beckson.

Jim
 
I need to replace the port light in the bathroom soon, I had assumed it was the same depth as the majority of the others, except the quarter berth one, is this not correct? And if so, would a 2" be long enough? I have used 1" in the others, is marginal but ok I think.
Dave.
 
I recently resealed all the ports. The one in the head had a gap between the cabin side and the liner. While all the other New Found Metals ports had excess spigot depth, this one came out flush with the trim ring.

Spigots measure about 1 5/8".
Since NFM ports "clamp" to the cabin side it was impossible to seal without filling the gap to stop the liner flexing. I used both wood and old dockline as filler, with a lot of West System Six-10 thickened epoxy.
I think a 2" spigot would be better, even if you had to trim it down.
 

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So that means you can't tighten the mounting screws..... Does not seem right. My existing old ports, the ones I have not replaced yet, are mounted with self tapping screws. I used through screws, stainless machine screws with nuts. Glad you said about the bathroom one being different, I would have pulled it out with only a 1" one ready to replace it with, and been in trouble.
I replaced the aft starboard one last year, but I still have leaks. Couldn't figure it out, but think now it's the hand rail above it leaking down onto and around that new port light.
 
With the NFM ports, they essentially are thru bolted but not. The machine screws go from inside and thread into bosses cast and machined into the trim ring, essentially clamping and relying on that and butyl rope Sealant. This is why i decided the NFM portlight in the head should have a solid surface.
After I noticed it leaking before, I tried tightening all the screws, to no avail. It just flexed or deformed the inner mounting surface.

On the Bomar like in my 1/4 berth or Beckson, they are screwed into the mounting surface. Seems like the trim ring is mostly asthetic but does hold Sealant.
In my 1/4 berth, only the Sealant and screws into the interior bulkhead were fastening the actual port.
If I end up with a NFM port there, I'll fill the void around the opening to make it solid. I'm not sure it's right or wrong, but it seems to work so far.
 
I went Lewmar all around many years ago and they have screens.
Teak hand loops were just lag bolts into the coach roof. Total PITA to maintain; replaced with thru-bolted stainless.
 
Just a quick update.
I ended up going with NFM for the 1/4 berth portlight.
I ordered a Bomar, but the spigot wasn't deep enough, so sent it back.

NFM ports make a 2" deep spigot besides their shallower style. They had this 4×14" in stock and shipped it right out. About $100 more than other plastic ports. We'll made stainless steel and tempered glass. But heavy.
I finally got a chance to install it this past week. Due to the slope of the cockpit wall, I made an angled shim. I happened to have a cutting board that was walnut (I think). And the perfect size to mill the shim from!.
This enabled the spigot to be flush with the trim ring on the outside.
I guess this wasn't such a quick update.
Mitchell
 

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