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Perkins Oil Leak Repair Guidance

M

Marc H. Pearl

Member
I've lived with this leak for awhile but am wondering how difficult it might be to actually fix it. Looks like it is leaking out from the cover plate on the front of the engine behind the belt pulleys. How difficult might it be to pull this off and install a new gasket?

Also, while I got the attention of competent mechanics, why do they use bronze flathead screws to hold the cover plate on the water pump (Sherwood)? I couldn't get them off without stripping the screw heads. I ended up taking the entire pump to a machine shop and they had to use a torch to get the screws out. I would like to be able to check and replace impellers easier than that.

Marc
 

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You talking the water pump ? Mine has no leaks , new gasket and goop (silicone in a tube) apply a little let go tacky 20 minuites both surfaces and bolt back together not real snug. next day a quarter tun on all bolts !
This also works fot the oil right out the front of the housing with 15 bolts on it ! Ask me how i know after the third time redoing it ! BOATS !!!
 
on water pump, invest in a speedseal to replace your front plate. comes with knurled bolts easily removed. and use some sort or grease on the bolts, perhaps white lithium. If there is a lot of oil from that front plate, you can remove it once the flywheel is off. That is not easy, because you have to create a way to hold the engine from moving to turn the big bolt holding it on. A flat metal piece drilled to bolt onto flywheel and then lean against the bulkhead is one way to do it. If the leak is pretty heavy, then you need a new front seal. I hired a mechanic to do it, feeling not competent myself. But at least you can get to it fairly easily. Perkins are notorious for leaking rear and front seals. My mechanic replaced both several years ago. Some leaking has resumed, but not enough to justify new replacements yet. I know he jacked the engine up to do the whole job, but I am not sure if the back seal work required that. We also replaced the oil pan gasket which definitely required raising the engine.
 
I installed a speed seal on my Sabre Yes thats the way to go . Makes it easy to change impellers. If you use blue Globe impellers you would not have to change every 7 years or so !!
 
What Lee said about Globe is good advice. Non silicone impellers die a quick death. Ask me how I know!
The soft screws are there because they are the same material as the pump housing. That is supposed to prevent corrosion. (Think stainless in aluminum). Put some anti-seize on the bolt threads. I could take mine out with a thin screwdriver.
For that matter put anti-seize on every nut & bolt you touch. I pulled the stick every winter & had antiseize on where the mast sat on the saddle. "Like butta"
As far as the front cover or oil seal: I never did my front seal. But I think you'll need a puller to get the front pully/balancer off to get at the seal.
If the cover gasket is leaking the key is to get all the oil off the gasket surfaces if you use a rtv sealer.
 
I had not previously been aware of the Globe impellers. Do you happen to remember which model fits the Perkins Sherwood pump?
 
terry_thatcher said:
I had not previously been aware of the Globe impellers. Do you happen to remember which model fits the Perkins Sherwood pump?
Click to expand...
I will be at the boat today and i know i have a one in spair patrts. Im near DEPCO pump co on Clearwater fl and they supply me with all my impellers. They are in my motor all my water pumps under sinks etc. My view Its a better mouse trap and saves me work !
You can run a globe impeller dry with out damage !!
 
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Marc H. Pearl said:
I've lived with this leak for awhile but am wondering how difficult it might be to actually fix it. Looks like it is leaking out from the cover plate on the front of the engine behind the belt pulleys. How difficult might it be to pull this off and install a new gasket?

Also, while I got the attention of competent mechanics, why do they use bronze flathead screws to hold the cover plate on the water pump (Sherwood)? I couldn't get them off without stripping the screw heads. I ended up taking the entire pump to a machine shop and they had to use a torch to get the screws out. I would like to be able to check and replace impellers easier than that.

Marc
Click to expand...
Marc, I cannot see the leak you are talking about but assume it is coming around the plate and then going down the front of the oil pan? I had both the rear oil seal replaced AND had the front cover taken off and new gasket put in place by a mechanic that is a marine diesel mechanic. It cost a lot of money, took a lot of time away from using the boat and in the end, it still leaked. the leak does come from behind that plate in many cases, but sometimes it comes from that front gear cover. Mine was leaking from both. I have gotten it slowed down but not stopped. I have been told by some old salts that the rear seal is going to leak, that it cannot be stopped because the engine was not made to sit at an angle like it does in our boats, it was a tractor engine made to sit level. With oil in the pan lying against the rear seal much of the time, it saturates the rope seal and then leaks. After the expensive venture to try to fix my leaks, I've learned that the diapers are cheaper than a mechanic.
 
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