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Northwest Morgan Sailing

mpearson

Mark Pearson
Staff member
After about 4 years of steady upgrades and dinky trips on Zia, we finally left Portland, Oregon in May and headed up the coast. New sails, radar, radar pole, dodger, bimini, instrumentation, AIS, dripless stuffing box, life raft, dingy, cabin heater, refrigerator, etc. She’s a spoiled girl.

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Fully loaded & ready for cruising.

We headed down to Astoria, OR & did some sea trials in 35-ish knot winds, 6-7 ft waves, etc. We’ve done a lot of ocean sailing but this was our first time in the ocean on Zia. Everything held together great, and we had an excellent crew. As I expected, Zia did great on the ocean waves/swells. We crossed the notorious Columbia River bar (aka “Graveyard of the Pacific”) a few times. We gave it a lot of respect & avoided problems.

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Wind and Fog

Next, we headed about 40 miles offshore and up the coast to the native village of Neah Bay, which is at the entrance of the Strait of Juan de Fuca. Then to Port Angeles WA, then Port Townsend. We really loved Port Townsend – a great little town and one of the nicest collections of sailboats I’ve see around. Not super big boats, but obviously well loved/cared for.


We had 20-25 knot winds and quite thick fog at the same time. Disregard those ‘experts’ who say you won’t have fog and strong wind at the same time. IMHO it would have been crazy to do this trip without radar and we sure liked having an AIS transceiver as well.


Next up to Anacortes, Washington, then to the San Juan Islands. Explored these beautiful islands for about a week. We saw pods of Orca whales, porpoise, lots of seals, eagles, sea lions, and some other ‘mystery’ whales.
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Wing on Wing


We love anchoring in secluded bays/inlets & it’s one of the only times that owning a boat actually makes financial sense, I think. The hotels & lodges up here are quite pricy (like $300-500/night), and living on the hook is basically free! I told my wife how financially sound boat ownership was and she gave me a deeply sarcastic (maybe hostile?) look and managed to change the subject.

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We then headed into the Canadian Gulf Islands for another week.

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We crossed through Dodd Narrows (which can do tidal rips at up to 9 knots), and up to Nanaimo, BC. We have a slip rented in Nanaimo for 3 months and plan to base Zia out of this port through September. Alas, we need to go home to work for a few weeks before we come back and take Zia further north up to Desolation Sound on a 10-day jaunt.


We’ve covered about 660 NM so far this trip and have had a blast. Zia and all of her upgrades have done great.

As we were headed north & approaching Nanaimo, another boat that looked just like a Morgan 38 passed us headed south. My wife & I stood staring at the boat, concentrating and it looked like they were staring at us too. The other guy finally waved at us and we waved back. I decided it was probably an older Tartan, some of which look just like M38s. I found out about a week later that it was Garrett (new member of this forum) and his wife aboard Alpinisto (a 1979 382). They are based out of Bellingham, WA.


Despite running this forum, I’d never seen another M38 “in the wild”. M38s have a lot bigger presence on the right coast than the left coast. I’m obviously a little biased, but M38s sure have nice lines, lower freeboard, and are a welcome contrast to the more ‘bloated’ marshmallow-ish hulls of the newer production boats. To each their own, though.


The only other M38 I’ve seen is Terry Thatcher’s 382 at its dock in Portland. Terry just took an amazing trip on his 382 down the west coast to Mexico, Galapagos Island, French Polynesia, Hawaii and I think he’s on his way back to the northwest US now. Terry has emailed me that he thinks his favorite/best “world class” cruising grounds is the northwest area where we are now cruising with Zia. I’ve been lucky enough to cruise all over the world, too, and I have to say that I agree.


I’ll post some more when we continue up to Desolation Sound.

Cheers,

-Mark
 

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Hi Warren - We use the Delorme (now Garmin) InReach. Been using it for about 2 years & I love it. We've used it all over the world with no problems.

Previously used Spot Connect, which was kind of a pain due to required pairing with smart phone. It was a clunky design that I think Spot discontinued.

The InReach is way easier to use, and batteries last much longer. Doesn't require pairing with smart phone, but you can pair it if it's desired.

Quite excellent "bang for the buck" considering it's using Satellites to communicate (2 way texting, etc.)
 
I also have an InReach (only for a couple months) and think it's great. I've only used it twice so far. But what are you using to create the map you posted? That doesn't look like what I get from my InReach. I also have a garmin handheld GPS, and use the garmin homeport software and really like it. It's simple, and I can export routes the the garmin and download tracks into it. But it doesn't produce nice formatted maps with a legend etc.
 

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Hi Warren - For mapping I use a system called ArcGIS. I do GIS/mapping for a living, though, and that system would be painful overkill to buy/learn unless you use it all the time.
I'd probably recommend Google Earth since you can import the KML/KMZ files exported from Delorme's web page.
How are things going with the Pacific Cup plans?
 
Sailing as often as I can. I am in the OYRA Ocean series this year, trying out potential crew and getting some time racing and flying the spinnaker on the Ocean. I'm also begining an effort to find Lou Ichler, who won the Pacific Cup in a Morgan. If anyone has any ideas that would be great. Otherwise, I think some current Pac Cup Racers might know his whereabouts.
 
Our summer travels have continued … surprisingly, we have covered over 1,000 miles so far.

We left Nanaimo, BC and crossed the strait of Georgia. We headed up fjords to Princess Louisa Inlet and to Chatterbox Falls. We had to carefully time the tides since our course went through Malibu Rapids. The current there rips at 9 knots, which for up here is not totally outlandish.

Chatterbox Falls was truly breathtaking with water cascading down vertically several thousand feet into the ocean.

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Stern Tied at Chatterbox Falls

We did some of our deepest anchoring here and discovered that our windlass was shot. It worked fine in the shallow waters of Columbia River, but it pretty much gave up with 225 ft of chain paid out. It was quite dramatic when it would ‘let loose’ and 200 ft of chain plus the anchor would go flying out until it hit the bitter end. It was dramatic enough that my wife agreed to release our spending freeze on Zia and replace the windlass. We will do that on our next jaunt over Labor Day weekend.

In the meantime, we Macgyver’d a system of snapshackles & lines to the jib sheet winch and after a couple of hours had our anchor back aboard.

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Our crew, victorious after getting anchor back on deck

We headed up to Desolation Sound which was also an amazing place. Forlorn name, great place. Because of the effort in raising our anchor, we chose a good spot and anchored for several days - doing dingy trips from Zia. Surprisingly, the water here is over 70 degrees warm and we swam daily. One day we hiked up to a lake and swam there too.

Most of the anchoring up here is ‘stern tied’. Which is pretty much like the Mediterranean mooring that we did in Greece. You drop the anchor then back down toward shore. We have a 500 ft spool of floating line on the stern which we dingy to shore, around a tree then back to the stern cleat. When you leave, you just release the cleat hitch & pull the line in.

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We easily could have spent a couple of months in Desolation Sound and all of the islands north of the sound. Alas, we had to get back to work, so we headed back to Nanaimo & left Zia until we can return Labor Day weekend. Although I could whine much about wanting to stay longer, in reality we feel very blessed to have been able to spend some high quality time with good friends in this incredible setting.

We’ve been lucky enough to sail in places like Greece, the Caribbean, Thailand, French Polynesia, Mexico, southern California, US east coast, Alaska, etc. All amazing places, and I have to say that this area of the Pacific NW is in the same top level of destinations, in my opinion.

One caveat - there is almost no wind this time of year, and on this 10 day segment we were only able to 'sail' on one day. The rest of the time we motored. We didn't mind at all.

We plan to start bringing Zia south to Portland on September 15. We anticipate that will take two or three short trips since we need to bounce back for work (sniff).

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