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Looking for a little Keel Blocking Clarity

captpete

Member
This site has been great for learning about my 382. I have read much on here about how best to block the keel so as not to damage the hollow section of the holding tank.

I have seen the blocking diagram on another thread.

But I have also seen a drawing showing some more solid (not lead) keel at the very aft portion of a 5' draft boat. And some suggestions that folks have put blocks there.

As I am about to haul my boat and put it in my yard (i.e. may settle some on the not so hard ground during the Massachusetts winter) I just want to be sure I set her up as best as I can. So at this stage Iplan to just have her blocked (two sets of blocks) on the forward half of the keel.

But I am sure tempted to also block her on the very aft part of the keel as there are some suggestions that is ok and not doing so seems to be put her in a what I would call a "more likely to teeter" position. I will have 7 stands under her.

Any suggestions from more experienced members will be much appreciated.
 
Pete
Years ago after discovering the damage done to the tabbing at the bilge floor, I began having the boat blocked with two blocks only under the lead part of the keel. It works fine. I see no reason to put a support under the very aft end of the keel. The wide bottom of the keel section lends enough support that additional blocking doesn't seem to be necessary.

Jim
 
Knock on the keel with a rubber mallet or something similar, and listen for the different sounds. It's pretty obvious where the hollow part is. At least it is on our 384.
 
Here are Section drawings of the keel and skeg, Also is the blocking and sling recommendations from past posts. Perhaps they could posted somewhere easily accessible.
Morgan 38 Keel Section.jpg Morgan 38 Keel Section.jpg Morgan 38 Skeg Section.jpg
 

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Here are Section drawings of the keel and skeg, Also is the blocking and sling recommendations from past posts. Perhaps they could posted somewhere easily accessible.
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I am a "newbie" here as I research the 382 before buying. I came across this picture at East Coast Yacht Sales and wanted to share it after reading about the positioning of tankage above the aft portion of the keel in the light of everything posted about proper blocking of this boat.
 
Jimmie

This photo is all wrong!!!! First the blocking, if you tap with your hand from the front of the keel going aft, your HEAR where the encapsulated lead of the keel is. The blocking needs to be ONLY under the lead. The aft end of the keel is holding tank. Improper blocking like this is the cause of holding tank leaks. Pretty sure the tank on this boat is damaged and leaks. Second, six poppets are not enough to properly support the boat. Hope the wind doesn't blow too hard while she is up on the hard. Third, the few poppets that there are are not chained together. Please let me know where this yard is so I can be sure never to deal with them.

Jim
 
I have had 3 boats blocked in the past. The Morgan is different due to the holding tank location. So I agree completely with Jim. My 382 which currently on the hard, has 9 stands with chains tightly tying together the opposing stand. Four on each side. The only one that doesn't have a chain is the stand under the bow. Blocking is only on the forward end of the keel which is solid. You need more than one 6X6 block under there. If you can't get 3 more stands, you need at least one stand for the bow and come with chain.
 
Here is the proper way how to block the old lady ( same boat Morgan 383 -15 ) with 9 stands home made by me and chain 1/4'', steel plate under my block 8X8 and 2X10 under the stands .

That boat was call Rag Doll ( stupid name) ,total wrecks no maintenance for years , am just retired and love to fix old boat ,that is my big job for the next few years Youppi ... the boat was delivered in my yard in Quebec ,

This winter total refit of the old Perkins 108 in my shop, motor 2600h still running but i want to use my tool lol !!! This fall i want also to finish to removed all the inside including mile of hose, wire and shit from the sewage tank that will be relocate in the head .

The hull seem acceptable , that boat was in the water only a couple month per year ( Maine ), no blister so far already start to strip the 26 coats of antifouling paint .

It is my second big refit ,way that Morgan 38 ,good size for me and a good solid Tupperware , the overhang also give her a look !

I must found a picture i think that i am the first guy how fly a Morgan at 40' over a tree with a 60T crane ...
IMG_0884.JPG IMG_0880.JPG

Sorry for my English am french
Philippe
 
Philippe
Congratulations on recovering an abandoned 382. Obviously, you are caring for her better then the previous owner. You'll find there is a lot of knowledge of the boat here on the board. Don't be afraid to ask questions. Enjoy the project.

Jim
 
Captpete, its not too hard to figure out on your own. Easier because you're from lobster country. You need two tools: A tiny "lawbstah"' wooden mallet & a thick black magic marker. Starting at the front of the keel, about 1' up from the bottom start tapping and work your way backwards. As soon as the sound changes from a solid thunk to a more hollow sound, take the marker 6" forward and draw a vertical line, then a horizontal one extending to the trailing edge of the keel.
Write in big black letters on the horizontal line: DO NOT BLOCK THE F"ING BOAT IN THIS AREA. Renew every spring upon bottom painting.

Put a short flat powerboat jackstand in front of the rudder skeg, you'll be fine blocking just the front of the keel. I'd suggest wider cribbing then the picture of Rag doll has.
Of course losing the back half of the cribbing that's driving the bilge floor upas Jim said.
 
Wow this scares me , no chains in those stands ! And no doubt the holding tank bilge floor is cracked now !
I have always thought the bilge holding tank is just a design flaw !! Sure cause me a head ache !!!
 
Am not going to refer that marina to anybody ... some boat where there to died !

No leak found on sewage tank but am not taking any chance the new tank will be in the head , am going to open it to put my new bilge pump . Easy test to do is to close all the valve and plug the vent , after i pressure at 2 or 3 pound max. of pressure with a pedal bike pump ( never use a air compressor you will blow off your keel lol ) for the pump i made a fitting throw the pump-out on the deck , Check with soap and water , did the same test for the fuel tank and yes one fitting was leaking ,dry crack hose ...

There a drawing how to block the 38 ,specific place for the support , give a copy the the marina if your not around when they put it in the yard
 
Thanks Dave, that is good advice on my old thread. I have since sold the boat but did block it properly the two winters I had it on the hard. I think marking exactly as you state makes good sense as no matter how many times you tell the boat handlers they still tend to screw it up. I had my boat moved by truck but fortunately not too far as they always wound up putting a metal bar under the keel in the wrong place (see pic below).

When i first got the boat she had been sitting for 7+ years with blocking on aft part of keel. Under a separate thread i noted my repair of the leaking holding tank.

Now I have a new worry - a "lobsta" hull that was just hauled out yesterday. Big heavy thing with only four stands and no chains - gonna have to fix that! And i cannot say I know yet if there are any bad or good spots to block it as no lead in the keel, but thankfully thick layup.

Still love this site - always learn something from a good group of folks. Happy Thanksgiving to all.
 

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