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Lifelines --- Coated or Noncoated

john Gonzalez

john Gonzalez

Member
I am replacing my lifelines. On prior boat, a Hunter, I replaced with SS non-coated due to the advice of the company that replaced them. I found that they were hard on the hands and industrial in its appearance.

On the Morgan, the lines have serious rust bleed thru's and cracking that is hazardous to the hand and pealing away the plastic revealed as expected, more rust underneath, so they're done. However, I will not be racing or applying to a transpac etc. I like the classic look and feel of a coated line so I yielding to my personal preference but due to the cost, I also don't want to overlook another issue that should be considered such as safety. So, I have them off and ready to send to Lifelines and Rigging in Palm Harbor Fla. This Company as the one before, is advising to go with noncoated but they will do what I want. Leaning towards coated at this time for the reasons mentioned and because I won't be owning the boat so long to be worrying about rust in the future.

Bad idea? Your thoughts appreciated.
 
John
When we replaced our lifelines years ago the rigger outright refused to use coated wire. He sliced open a section in the middle of one of the old wires to reveal corrosion underneath what looked like a perfectly good area. At about that time the racing community had changed their rules to require only uncoated lifelines if you are going to race. I felt, as you do, that the coated wire looks and feels better. After much discussion we went with uncoated as the rigger suggested. Now that those wires have been in place for a good number of years, the look and feel thing is really a non-issue. The fact that the wires are exposed for instant inspection for corrosion is definitely a plus.

Another thing done when we replaced the wire was to do away with the turnbuckles at the ends of the wires. Instead of the turnbuckle fittings the rigger used simple eye fittings and those were lashed in place with loops of 3/16" line. The lashings are stronger then the turnbuckles and Of course, less expensive. Another advantage of the lashings is that if the lifeline needs to be removed quickly, as in a man overboard recovery, a slash of a knife and the wire is gone.

Jim
 
For the same reasons, I went with uncoated wire. I think it looks fine. some are going with dyneema, but then there are uv issues.
 
I was afraid I would receive that response. I was looking for an excuse to stay coated, but I think you guys are dead on correct the more I think about it. I will likely go with naked wire. Thanks Jim and Terry. By the way, I was told today that most all new production boats, especially Beneteaus and Catalinas have non coated wire. JIm, let me think about doing away with the turnbuckles. If they do not have the barrel ones, then that would be how I would go.
 
John , Call and get a quote from Jean at SECO South in Largo FL 727 536 1924 . They are riggers . They did all the rigging for the SKYWAY BRIDGE in St Ptersburg fla. All the bridge cables they did. Most all there upper staff are sailors also . Most local riggers in my area take there stuff to Seaco coated or uncoated in 3 days. !
I was there Phone man the day there factory set up for the bridge job. I have know there manager jean for 40 years .
I have used the palm harber rigger also, But its was more about what he likes to do . He works out of a 8x6 Trailor he tows with his truck , And hes no bargain .
 
Thank you Lee, Some time back I heard of this company and lost track of their name. I will do that. I will call Monday and talk with them about replicating my lines but with Non-Coated lines. I may ask for Jean and drop your name for a little special attention to my order! Thanks again Lee.
 
John

I'm posting two photos of the lashings on the lifelines. They replaced 8 turnbuckles. The gates still have the pelican hooks for easy release.

Jim
 

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Terry

The lashing is done with about a 6' piece of 3/16" stay-set (or similar low stretch line). One end is tried to the eye on the stanchion with a bowline. The line is then looped through the lifeline eye and back to the stanchion eye 4 or 5 times. Tension is then pulled on the loops to ensure that the lifeline is tight enough. The remaining tail of line (18 to 24") is then half hitched around the loops numerous times to secure the lashing. If the hitches are all tied in the same direction, the knots will appear to rotate around the loops. If the hitches are reversed after each one (as mine are) the knots will follow a line along the loops. The beauty of the lashings are that they are very strong, infinitely adjustable, not subject to mechanical failure, easy to cut away if needed, and a less expensive alternative to turnbuckles.

Jim
 
I replaced mine with bare wire and wouldn't go back to coated. I used the Suncor mechanical fittings to build my own. I'll do it exactly the same way the next time I have to do the project. The fittings are reusable... just need new wire and internal cones.
 
I am being told that if I go with naked same diameter of the coated, the studs are bigger than the prior ones making too large to go through Stantion holes. Still working this out if possible with supplier.
 
john Gonzalez said:
I am being told that if I go with naked same diameter of the coated, the studs are bigger than the prior ones making too large to go through Stantion holes. Still working this out if possible with supplier.
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They won't fit? Are they quoting swage terminals? Maybe that's why they won't fit. Check out the Suncor fittings. It's a ridiculously easy project, and you'll save a ton by doing it yourself. I replaced my coated with the same size of uncoated. Fit perfectly!
 
Of corse not , If you want UN coated than you get uncoated. The wire size will not change BUT if you want uncoated And " LARGER" Of course it will not fit with the Swedged terminals ! This is Apples And Oranges. IF you keep the same size wire ok coated or uncoated the wire size stays the same. Now if you change the rules it all changes !
If you get therad on the ends you can get new turn buckles that screw on and there is no problem . Talk to Jean ask her how to do this ?
If you get Larger wire the swedge ends will not go thru the stachion holes.
Keep it all the same old size !
 
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