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I'm Installing a new Propane Stove/Oven

Hello All,
I'm looking for any pertinant insight on this installation. I have a new Dickenson Carribean 2 burner stove to install. The stove part is pretty easy, the rest of it, I'm not real sure about. I'm also installing tile in the stove alcove before the stove goes in. The old stove left charred areas, which revealed themselves when I removed the original Alcohol stove.
I've searched the archives here and found some info. What I'm thinking is running the plumbing from the Lazerette locker, which will be the tank locker, up along the coaming forward and down at the fuel fill hose, through the cabinetry and into the stove alcove where the old alcohol feed line was.
Does this make any sense? Am I missing anything here?

I'm looking at the other parts needed too. Regulator, Solenoid, Hose, Control module/ sniffers. Thiis is really out of my experience, though I can do this type of stuff.
Let me know your thoughts and experiences please.
Thank you,
Mitchell
 

jimcleary

James M. Cleary
Mitchell

We changed over to propane long ago. We have a Force 10 two burner with oven & Broiler. The system is also plumbed to a Dickinson 12K but heater. Enclosed is a diagram of the system as installed. Any questions, just ask. Let me know if you can read the drawing.

Jim
 

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Jim!
You're amazing. Yes, I can reaad your plan.Thankk you. Fantastic diagram, and it helps a lot. It certainly reinforces my thinking on the components required.
I may also add a heater someday. Do you recall how you routed the plumbing to the stove?

The old alcohol Galley Maid hadn't been used in probably 30 years when I removed it. The previous owner had a gimbaled single burner for the race to Hawaii apparently. I was terrified to even try to light the thing it looked so sketchy.
Thank you so much,
Mitchell
 
Hi Mitchel,
I had a 2-burner kerosene/alcohol primed/electric cook top for years before I found a Force 10 propane 2-burner/oven-broiler. Priming was always a thrill but the kerosene btu's were incredible!
Never had a problem with oven heat from the F10 on the alcove walls. There should be installation minimum clearances included with the unit.
You could eyeball my installation if you visit us on Steamboat slough. 12540 Grand Island Road, Walnut grove CA, 95690.
or 510-719-0227
?
 

jimcleary

James M. Cleary
Mitchell

Before you think about adding a propane heater, look into The Espar diesel hydronic heaters. The 12K Dickinson propane heater that we first installed is a disappointment. It only keeps the person sitting next to it warm although it looks great like a little fire place. The Espar hydronic system is hot water heat and we plumbed the boats hot water heater into the system so we get plenty of hot water without having to run the engine. When it's cold out the system will heat the boat with two radiators. I even had to add a thermostat to shut off the radiator fans at 70 degrees. It is so much better then the propane heater. It sips diesel at .06 gallons per hour. Check it out.
 

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jimcleary

James M. Cleary
Mitchell

The propane hose is run from the lazzerette to the galley in flexible plastic interduct (used to protect Fiber optic cables). It runs from the port cockpit locker to the galley via the bulwark and behind the upper cabinets in the galley. The two 3/4" heater hoses for the Espar run to port of the ice box ( I created the space there when I rebuilt the ice box).
 
John,
Thank you. How long will you be in the Delta? If I can get away soon, I would love to visit and meet. I don't really have any worries of the new stove doing any damage. The tile is simply a precaution, and will hide the previous damage without tearing everything out. And it will be easy to clean.
Jim,
I have wondered about the efficiency of the various heaters out there. You have provided valuable info on that. I think the Espar seems to be better all around. One concern is the chimney thru the deck for the propane heaters too. And you have affirmed my plumbing route scheme. Thanks.

Thank you both for your answers.
Mitchell
 
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Warren Holybee

Active Member
The hose run is difficult, but others have detailed it. Make sure it is secured so that it cannot move/chafe. Make sure that the propane locker is air tight to any other space, has a gasket on the lid, and a vent on the bottom that does not rise, only descends, to outside the boat. There can be no connections outside of the locker, except the connection to the appliance itself. I used the aft most locker (Named "Fuel Locker" on Ted Brewers original drawings) which already has a vent, and only needed to be sealed around some edges.

Trident Marine sells a kit with the required, regulator, solenoid valve and pressure gauge. The quality isn't great IMHO, but if you are not living aboard full time it is probably fine, just buy some better parts when the valve fails, because it will.

I am not aware of any propane space heaters or water heaters that are safe and acceptable on a boat. Diesel is the answer there.

* If anyone has some Galley maid parts lying around. I have a propane model that is missing the oven rack, and placing a cooking dish directly on the heat reflector doesn't cook very well. I think those parts might be the same on the alcohol version. It otherwise works great and I have no reason to replace it.
 
Thanks Warren, I have monitored your's and other's issues with Trident here. I do plan on living aboard to some extent and cruising some in the near future if life allows it. So I feel stepping up a bit in quality from the start is a good idea.
I've run other cables through the area in the bulwark and crammed myself into the port locker before. I will make everything sealed and air tight too. I believe I will need to glass in the upper bulkhead/deck joint. As I understand it, the "vent" drain hole will need to be enlarged too.
On your stove rack, I sent the complete old stove to John Flanzer. He's in Florida. I don't know if he will appreciate me saying this or not, but the rack was there. You might contact him and see what he says.
Thank you,
Mitchell
 

Warren Holybee

Active Member
You don't need to go through the work of glass, expanding spray foam is airtight. I didn't enlarge my drain hole, as it was already 3/4" Maybe 1/2" I don't remember, it's pretty large.

If John sees this and speaks up, great, otherwise I can keep living without it until I find one.
 
Well, sounds like foam will be much easier! I don't think the drain on Sonata is even 1/2". I'll need to check next time I'm aboard.
Thanks Warren
 

jimcleary

James M. Cleary
Mitchell
Instead of enlarging the drain hole in the "fuel locker" which goes under water and sealed when the boat squats, I added a second drain hole further up the hull just before the turn of the transom.

Jim
 

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John,
Thank you. How long will you be in the Delta? If I can get away soon, I would love to visit and meet. I don't really have any worries of the new stove doing any damage. The tile is simply a precaution, and will hide the previous damage without tearing everything out. And it will be easy to clean.
Jim,
I have wondered about the efficiency of the various heaters out there. You have provided valuable info on that. I think the Espar seems to be better all around. One concern is the chimney thru the deck for the propane heaters too. And you have affirmed my plumbing route scheme. Thanks.

Thank you both for your answers.
Mitchell
Mitchel,
We are at anchor through 10/31 but may take a couple of weeks off late Sept through early October. You can check out my Propex FAU heater too!
 
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