• Welcome to this website/forum for people interested in the Morgan 38 Sailboat. Many of our members are 'owners' of Morgan 38s, but you don't need to be an owner to Register/Join.

How do I remove teak dorade boxes on M-323?

morganglory

Jim Golding
I have a 1984 Morgan 323, and am looking for suggestions on how to remove the teak dorade boxes.

The M-38x dorade boxes near the companionway seem similar to those on our M-323. Our boxes are made of 3/4" thick panels on the forward end and on the sides, but the back piece is about 3" thick. The traveler is mounted atop the back piece with 3 long bolts that pass through the deck, and a backing plate.

I've removed the traveler and I've been able to remove the sealant that seals the front and side pieces to the deck. I've had wedges under the front and side pieces to apply a lifting force and I've tried scraping some sealant from under this thick, back piece, but I cannot make much progress toward getting this piece free from the deck.

Can anyone recommend how I can dislodge this back part of the dorade box from the deck?

Thanks.

Jim
"Morgan Glory"
 

stnick

lee nicholas
There is a product called Marine Formula made in Florida it eats 5200 and silicone sealant . Its a spray can , It makes Goo out of sealant in 30 minutes
I have removed ports from my Sabre to install the New Found metal ports . , using Marine Formula . Its ordered On line about 20 bucks a can.
 

yurek

Jerzy Borzym
Jim:
I faced the same problem on my 384.
I cut teak traveler support close to boxes, using heat gun and saw blade removed boxes, rebuild boxes with new teak backs, and build new fiberglass support posts for new gerhauer traveler.
You may try cut 3M they used with saw blade if you are patient.
In my case i was ripping off cabin top, It holds so well.
Yurek
 

morganglory

Jim Golding
Today I was able to remove the port side dorade box using Marine Formula. I had already spent a lot of time removing the sealant from three sides of this box and had scraped about 1/4" of sealant from the back side of the box. It took about two hours today applying Marine Formula, waiting about 10 minutes, then scraping some sealant out. I was also intermittently trying to hammer a scraper or my knife under this area, and I had the front of the box pried up with wooden shims. It was about 90 degrees out, too. Finally she gave way, leaving most of the sealant on the bottom of the box.

Next, I'll attack the starboard side box, which I haven't spent any time on. I'm hopeful the Marine Formula will make it a quicker job than the port side box, which I've been messing with off-and-on for several weeks. I'll keep you posted.

Jim
 

wild382

John
A related question regarding teak varnish on the SS rail. It has been there since we bought the boat. Is there anything that will melt or dissolve dried varnish on stainless?
 

jimcleary

James M. Cleary
John
Try CitraStrip. It's available at Home Depot. It's orange in the bottle. Just don't let it drip on a painted surface.

Jim
 

yurek

Jerzy Borzym
John
I Have main ss out and paint stripper i used to remove old antifouling paint works fine.
Yuek
 

yurek

Jerzy Borzym
On my boat ss rub rails are 1 1/4" wide concave shape. I removed them and try on one of them to remove old varnish using home depot paint stripper, it works.
You can not do it when rub rails are installed on the boat.
Yurek.
 

morganglory

Jim Golding
UPDATE on original topic: The starboard dorade box came free after a single 2 or 3 hour session. During that time I would scrape at the sealant a little, apply Marine Formula, wait 10 minutes, and repeat. As soon as I had some of the forward sealant removed I started applying pressure by tapping some shims under the edge, and increasing the shim depth as I worked my way aft removing sealant.

Thanks for the recommendation on the Marine Formula.

Jim
 
I know this is a really old thread, but I need to remove
Sonata's Port Dorade box. It's been leaking, (amonst other deck hardware).
I have dropped the headliner but I don't see any screws or mecahnical fasteners up to the box. Are these actually just bonded to the deck?
Confused
Mitchell
 
Ours were simply screwed into the deck from the top via wooden blocks on the inside of the box. In theory to remove them you'd leave the blocks in place and detach the box, but for some reason ours were built in such a way that the whole box had to be taken apart instead. We had them rebuilt to make removal easier when we did the decks last winter.
 
Thanks Keefer, I don't have any mounting blocks inside that I can see. At least not in the aft half that has the cowl vent opening. I am going to make a wire tool to go thru the dam are a and the space that is SUPPOSED to keep the water out. I am hoping to be able to "feel" for mounting blocks there if any exist.

The leaks are from heavy rains, not heavy seas, so I can imagine what it might be like at sea, as is. The boxes look like they still have integrity.
I may need to bite the bullet and cut them away from the deck and rebuild, or make new. Really don't want to do that...
Mitchell
 
Top