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Clipper Route, Mexico to Oregon

terry_thatcher

Terence Thatcher
My son Emerson and I just returned home after a 30 day trip from Puerto Vallarta to Astoria Oregon. We used what is termed the Clipper Route, using the west side of the typical Pacific high Ior highs). It is basically a big boomerang out about 650 miles off of California coast and then back in towards British Columbia. You use the clockwise circulation of the high or highs, sailing at 50 to 60 degrees apparent wind angle. I have only 63 gallons of fuel tankage and another 25 in jugs, so we deferred running the diesel as long as we could. Spent a couple of days rolling in the swells, which was miserable. Ran the engine perhaps 30 hours until we crossed the Columbia River Bar. During one calm, we transferred 20 gallons from jerry jugs, so we ended up with plenty of fuel in our tanks.

The wind varied mostly from 12 to 25 knots apparent, except during the reach down to Astoria, when it got up to 30 a few times. Lots of sail changes, from no main reef, to one, then two, then three and plenty of changes in how much jib was rolled out. We ran up almost to the latitude of the north end of Vancouver Island, sailing slowly a few hundred miles to the west of the continent, waiting for a substantial gale coming down from Alaska to blow itself out. Once we made the turn south, we had a very broad reach to Astoria, running at 5 to 6.5 knots under only a substantially reefed genoa.

The whole trip was pretty bumpy and often, when we were at 50 to 60 degrees apparent wind, quite noisy. Every few minutes, sometimes for several hours, the boat would fall into a trough or get hit by a wave in such a way as to make it sound as if Poseidon had crashed a massive hammer into the bottom of the boat. The bang would be followed by a shaking, the boat would recover, and sail on. I see no bulkhead delamination damage , altho my inspection is not complete. I wonder if hours of this kind of slamming weakens the fiberglass at all.

The reach to Astoria was also wet. Occasional quartering seas filled the cockpit with 10-12 inches of water. I am glad I put a plexiglass cover over the instrument panel this year. The panel should not be down in the cockpit to begin with. I also should have paid extra for the Beta Marine sealed panel when I installed the new engine 2 years ago. That was foolish economy. We did learn that the scuppers to the torpedo tube cleared the cockpit pretty quickly.

The trip was tiring, but not dangerous. Not the comfortable trade wind ride we had to Polynesia in 2017 and then home through Hawaii. I had a hard time sleeping during the day and probably lived on only about 4 hours of sleep a day for 30 days. My son, luckily, did better than I did in that regard. But once we were tied up in Astoria, we checked into a hotel and each slept 12 to 14 hours a day for 3 days. My balance on land never fully recovered during those 3 days, my old age showing I suppose.

The Morgan performed very well, with a Monitor wind vane steering except in the light wind days or under power, when we ran our old-fashioned but very effective CPT autopilot. I trust this boat. She also proved her sea-keeping qualities on our trip from Astoria to San Francisco last fall. We ran south for 6 days in a gale blowing 25 to 35 knots, again relying on the Monitor and running only our Solent jib. Surprisingly on that trip, were never pooped, though conditions were much worse. We went 400 miles offshore that time, to avoid even stronger winds by Cape Mendicino (altho the winds followed us out pretty much). Instead of a 700 mile trip, we made a 1100 mile trip in 7 days, the last day of which was under power at 6 knots. Seven 150 mile days. Not bad for a 45 year old cruising sloop.

Glad to be home.
 
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Wow, Terry, sounds like quite the voyage! Glad you guys and Adavida were up to the task. The sustained sleep deprivation sounds a little bit like torture.

Sorry for so many questions:

Q1: What was your watch schedule at night?

Yeah, the slamming/noises can be something. When I did the pacific crossing (Hawaii to Astoria) last year, it was on a friend's very fast, nice, and new Outremer catamaran. Once during the trip, I was watching a video where one of the main sales guys from Outremer was talking about how quiet their cats are. I had to replay it a couple times because I couldn't hear what he was saying (literally), with all the noise - creaking, banging, groaning. ;)

We got to play quite a bit with the Pacific High, or I guess more accurately, it was playing with us. We were using PredictWind's Offshore app, and it was quite amazing what it does.

Q2: What did you use for weather forecasts en route?

Seven 150 mile days seems pretty damn good to me.

We haven't been dramatically pooped on Zia (yet), that must have been exciting.

Q3: Your watermaker performed well?
Q4: How was the wear on your sails? Significant?

I was hoping you would give us some details on your trip, so thanks for the great writeup!

Welcome home! Let's go do lunch @ PYC and chat.
 
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Glad you guys are home safe. That's quite an adventure!

We had similar experiences returning from Mexico last December. Sonata launching of waves in 35-40kn headwinds. Loud and uncomfortable, but I never felt unsafe.

One issue I had was the big Vulcan anchor being flung from the bow roller by waves, twice and banging and trying to destroy the boat as it swung on it's chain. Makes a hellofa noise down below. Trying to retrieve that was a dangerous endeavor. Of course, middle of the night.
All because there was no bail to retain it.
That's been addressed since our return.

Sounds like you all had an incredible trip.
Mitchell
 
Mark: part way through my stay in Mexico, the Spectra watermaker began struggling to maintain a reasonable high flow. I replaced the feed pump with a spare, which did not help. After 2 to 2.5 hours of operation, product flow dropped down to 3.5 gal/min, instead of 6. I called Spectra and learned, for the first time, that I was supposed to rebuild the whole system every 5 years or so. Mine is 8 years old and has been used regularly. So that is on my list of things to do this winter. I don't think the manual tells one this. (Also, I have a Ventura 150. Should have gotten a Ventura 200, which produces 2 more gal/hour, as long as the water is 50 degrees F or above. I never sail in water colder than that.)

We carry nearly 90 gallons of fresh water in the tanks and filled up just as we left. We never ran the water maker on the trip. My method of water conservation is to use my galley saltwater pump to wash dishes, after bringing it to boiling or near boiling on the stove. I then rinse in cold salt water and do only a light rinse with fresh water to get the salt off. We took no showers and just got dirtier during the trip. We had plenty of water in the tanks when we reached Astoria.

Mitchell: did you beat up the coast or go offshore until you could head to SF? Those coastal northerlies can be tough.

My Spade anchor was lashed tight to the roller with dacron line. It was only when we got home to Oregon that I discovered that the line had chaffed through. (No major issue, but I don't like to rely on the windlass to hold the anchor on board. ) I intend to replace it with dyneema and improve the connection to the anchor, using either a hook or a stainless shackle. The galvanized anchor shackle is rough enough to have cut through the 5/16" dacron line. Never happened before in 25 years of sailing, but this trip was particularly rambunctious.

Oh, one final thought. I have 200 watts of solar (8 years old) on an stern arch. That will not keep up with daily loads when we are running the refrigerator. So this year I purchased a portable, fold up solar array of 170 watts, with updated efficiency. Made by Merlin Solar. If the sun is out at least part of the day,I can end each day at 100% battery capacity. Perfect for lying at anchor in the tropics. The ignorant sales manager of Merlin couldn't tell me what the base of the panels is made of (seems like epoxy impregnated cardboard). He told me not to leave them out in the rain. But I lashed the portable panels to the cabin top and they were regularly inundated by sea water--and they kept working and the base/frames seem still solid.
 
Terry!
We left Cabo as soon as we got there really. Dropped crew and fueled. I wanted to hang around and spend time up in the Sea of Cortez. My friend who stayed with me for the trip home had no desire to even go into Cabo or up SOC.
The BAJA HAHA was actually cut short by about 3 days because of real bad weather heading down the coast.
Against my better judgement, and his insisting, we headed into it.

Crew felt he had to get home. So the easier but longer Clipper Route was out. The weather was better further out to sea at this time.

We ended up motoring 95% of the way home to SF Bay. I never want to do that again. We came pretty much straight up the coast. From Ensenada on, it was glassy seas, and no wind. Before that it was survival mode for much of it.

I had the anchor lashed very securely, or so I thought. Plunging into the waves with that huge single fluke on the Vulcan was no match for any Lashing nor the windlass holding it back. The bow roller never had had a bail to retain the anchor either. I'd intended to install one before we left. But ran out of time.
I made and installed one once back home.

In the anchors flight, it also took out the bow nav light. I had a spare, but it hit that one too on the second episode.
We ended up with the battery powered dinghy light duct taped to the rolled up head sail. NOT good for 2 miles. Or even 1.
Needless to say, I learned a lot with this whole endeavor. Both about people, including myself, and Sonata.
I am so impressed with this boat! She sails incredibly well in most conditions. Faster than I expected in most too. She's really a dream of an ocean boat. I know many here realize this. But my eyes were opened to this fact. And just how good she is.
She kept us safe the whole trip. This was the first real bluewater I've done. Not once did I feel unsafe, or concerned with her abilities.
Mitchell

Here is the new bow light with a Mount/Gaurd I fabricated and the new "retaining" bail over the anchor.

Sorry I didn't mean to hijack your thread.
 

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Mitchel: having similar experience with my Vulcan bouncing anchor I made "anchor locker/blocker"
 
Hi Yurek,
I considered something similar as well. But to do it really meant changing more of the bow roller than I was ready to do at the time. I really like how substantial your set up looks.
Mitchell
 
Terry!
We left Cabo as soon as we got there really. Dropped crew and fueled. I wanted to hang around and spend time up in the Sea of Cortez. My friend who stayed with me for the trip home had no desire to even go into Cabo or up SOC.
The BAJA HAHA was actually cut short by about 3 days because of real bad weather heading down the coast.
Against my better judgement, and his insisting, we headed into it.

Crew felt he had to get home. So the easier but longer Clipper Route was out. The weather was better further out to sea at this time.

We ended up motoring 95% of the way home to SF Bay. I never want to do that again. We came pretty much straight up the coast. From Ensenada on, it was glassy seas, and no wind. Before that it was survival mode for much of it.

I had the anchor lashed very securely, or so I thought. Plunging into the waves with that huge single fluke on the Vulcan was no match for any Lashing nor the windlass holding it back. The bow roller never had had a bail to retain the anchor either. I'd intended to install one before we left. But ran out of time.
I made and installed one once back home.

In the anchors flight, it also took out the bow nav light. I had a spare, but it hit that one too on the second episode.
We ended up with the battery powered dinghy light duct taped to the rolled up head sail. NOT good for 2 miles. Or even 1.
Needless to say, I learned a lot with this whole endeavor. Both about people, including myself, and Sonata.
I am so impressed with this boat! She sails incredibly well in most conditions. Faster than I expected in most too. She's really a dream of an ocean boat. I know many here realize this. But my eyes were opened to this fact. And just how good she is.
She kept us safe the whole trip. This was the first real bluewater I've done. Not once did I feel unsafe, or concerned with her abilities.
Mitchell

Here is the new bow light with a Mount/Gaurd I fabricated and the new "retaining" bail over the anchor.

Sorry I didn't mean to hijack your thread.
You do very nice work. Since we were offshore and mostly under sail, we used a masthead tricolor Made by AquaSignal and they no longer market in the recreational market in the US. Mine died after 8 years. I bought one from an English chandlery: no more expensive than previous US price and only about $38 for shipping. I may keep buying from the UK.
 
My son Emerson and I just returned home after a 30 day trip from Puerto Vallarta to Astoria Oregon. We used what is termed the Clipper Route, using the west side of the typical Pacific high Ior highs). It is basically a big boomerang out about 650 miles off of California coast and then back in towards British Columbia. You use the clockwise circulation of the high or highs, sailing at 50 to 60 degrees apparent wind angle. I have only 63 gallons of fuel tankage and another 25 in jugs, so we deferred running the diesel as long as we could. Spent a couple of days rolling in the swells, which was miserable. Ran the engine perhaps 30 hours until we crossed the Columbia River Bar. During one calm, we transferred 20 gallons from jerry jugs, so we ended up with plenty of fuel in our tanks.

The wind varied mostly from 12 to 25 knots apparent, except during the reach down to Astoria, when it got up to 30 a few times. Lots of sail changes, from no main reef, to one, then two, then three and plenty of changes in how much jib was rolled out. We ran up almost to the latitude of the north end of Vancouver Island, sailing slowly a few hundred miles to the west of the continent, waiting for a substantial gale coming down from Alaska to blow itself out. Once we made the turn south, we had a very broad reach to Astoria, running at 5 to 6.5 knots under only a substantially reefed genoa.

The whole trip was pretty bumpy and often, when we were at 50 to 60 degrees apparent wind, quite noisy. Every few minutes, sometimes for several hours, the boat would fall into a trough or get hit by a wave in such a way as to make it sound as if Poseidon had crashed a massive hammer into the bottom of the boat. The bang would be followed by a shaking, the boat would recover, and sail on. I see no bulkhead delamination damage , altho my inspection is not complete. I wonder if hours of this kind of slamming weakens the fiberglass at all.

The reach to Astoria was also wet. Occasional quartering seas filled the cockpit with 10-12 inches of water. I am glad I put a plexiglass cover over the instrument panel this year. The panel should not be down in the cockpit to begin with. I also should have paid extra for the Beta Marine sealed panel when I installed the new engine 2 years ago. That was foolish economy. We did learn that the scuppers to the torpedo tube cleared the cockpit pretty quickly.

The trip was tiring, but not dangerous. Not the comfortable trade wind ride we had to Polynesia in 2017 and then home through Hawaii. I had a hard time sleeping during the day and probably lived on only about 4 hours of sleep a day for 30 days. My son, luckily, did better than I did in that regard. But once we were tied up in Astoria, we checked into a hotel and each slept 12 to 14 hours a day for 3 days. My balance on land never fully recovered during those 3 days, my old age showing I suppose.

The Morgan performed very well, with a Monitor wind vane steering except in the light wind days or under power, when we ran our old-fashioned but very effective CPT autopilot. I trust this boat. She also proved her sea-keeping qualities on our trip from Astoria to San Francisco last fall. We ran south for 6 days in a gale blowing 25 to 35 knots, again relying on the Monitor and running only our Solent jib. Surprisingly on that trip, were never pooped, though conditions were much worse. We went 400 miles offshore that time, to avoid even stronger winds by Cape Mendicino (altho the winds followed us out pretty much). Instead of a 700 mile trip, we made a 1100 mile trip in 7 days, the last day of which was under power at 6 knots. Seven 150 mile days. Not bad for a 45 year old cruising sloop.

Glad to be home.
My son Emerson and I just returned home after a 30 day trip from Puerto Vallarta to Astoria Oregon. We used what is termed the Clipper Route, using the west side of the typical Pacific high Ior highs). It is basically a big boomerang out about 650 miles off of California coast and then back in towards British Columbia. You use the clockwise circulation of the high or highs, sailing at 50 to 60 degrees apparent wind angle. I have only 63 gallons of fuel tankage and another 25 in jugs, so we deferred running the diesel as long as we could. Spent a couple of days rolling in the swells, which was miserable. Ran the engine perhaps 30 hours until we crossed the Columbia River Bar. During one calm, we transferred 20 gallons from jerry jugs, so we ended up with plenty of fuel in our tanks.

The wind varied mostly from 12 to 25 knots apparent, except during the reach down to Astoria, when it got up to 30 a few times. Lots of sail changes, from no main reef, to one, then two, then three and plenty of changes in how much jib was rolled out. We ran up almost to the latitude of the north end of Vancouver Island, sailing slowly a few hundred miles to the west of the continent, waiting for a substantial gale coming down from Alaska to blow itself out. Once we made the turn south, we had a very broad reach to Astoria, running at 5 to 6.5 knots under only a substantially reefed genoa.

The whole trip was pretty bumpy and often, when we were at 50 to 60 degrees apparent wind, quite noisy. Every few minutes, sometimes for several hours, the boat would fall into a trough or get hit by a wave in such a way as to make it sound as if Poseidon had crashed a massive hammer into the bottom of the boat. The bang would be followed by a shaking, the boat would recover, and sail on. I see no bulkhead delamination damage , altho my inspection is not complete. I wonder if hours of this kind of slamming weakens the fiberglass at all.

The reach to Astoria was also wet. Occasional quartering seas filled the cockpit with 10-12 inches of water. I am glad I put a plexiglass cover over the instrument panel this year. The panel should not be down in the cockpit to begin with. I also should have paid extra for the Beta Marine sealed panel when I installed the new engine 2 years ago. That was foolish economy. We did learn that the scuppers to the torpedo tube cleared the cockpit pretty quickly.

The trip was tiring, but not dangerous. Not the comfortable trade wind ride we had to Polynesia in 2017 and then home through Hawaii. I had a hard time sleeping during the day and probably lived on only about 4 hours of sleep a day for 30 days. My son, luckily, did better than I did in that regard. But once we were tied up in Astoria, we checked into a hotel and each slept 12 to 14 hours a day for 3 days. My balance on land never fully recovered during those 3 days, my old age showing I suppose.

The Morgan performed very well, with a Monitor wind vane steering except in the light wind days or under power, when we ran our old-fashioned but very effective CPT autopilot. I trust this boat. She also proved her sea-keeping qualities on our trip from Astoria to San Francisco last fall. We ran south for 6 days in a gale blowing 25 to 35 knots, again relying on the Monitor and running only our Solent jib. Surprisingly on that trip, were never pooped, though conditions were much worse. We went 400 miles offshore that time, to avoid even stronger winds by Cape Mendicino (altho the winds followed us out pretty much). Instead of a 700 mile trip, we made a 1100 mile trip in 7 days, the last day of which was under power at 6 knots. Seven 150 mile days. Not bad for a 45 year old cruising sloop.

Glad to be home.
More on the trip: Total mileage was about 3500 miles. I am attaching a photo of my route, taken off my Garmin GPS. I doesn't show the various course changes in detail, but shows the general route. Looking at my log, I see we had some westerlies part way through the trip, but light and not prolonged. I have attached a photo of my GPS screen showing our route.
 

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The trip north can suck, for sure. in 2022 I was in no hurry and learned the easiest and most comfortable is to wait until no wind and motor when it is glass as far as you can before the wind comes on again. I wanted to actually see Mexico, so the offshore route was out, but I have done plenty of offshore sailing as well.
I had my anchor come loose when Eliana was new to me. Did significant damage (cosmetic) to the bow, still visible because the color match isn't perfect. I added a bail, and additional lashing up to the pushpit, so the anchor can't fall if it comes loose.
I have pretty seriously abused Eliana, and she has held together well.
 
Mitchel: having similar experience with my Vulcan bouncing anchor I made "anchor locker/blocker"
Hi Yurek - we have a similar "anchor locker/blocker" on Zia. It also has a locking "pin", of approx 3/8" stainless that goes thru a corresponding hole in the anchor to hold it in place. The pin can be kind of a pain during normal anchoring because we need to be sure it doesn't get jammed when retrieving the anchor. But it holds the anchor very securely.

I can't tell from your photo, but do you have a pin too? Wondering if that is a common thing, or if there are other down-sides.
 
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Mark: part way through my stay in Mexico, the Spectra watermaker began struggling to maintain a reasonable high flow. I replaced the feed pump with a spare, which did not help. After 2 to 2.5 hours of operation, product flow dropped down to 3.5 gal/min, instead of 6. I called Spectra and learned, for the first time, that I was supposed to rebuild the whole system every 5 years or so. Mine is 8 years old and has been used regularly. So that is on my list of things to do this winter. I don't think the manual tells one this. (Also, I have a Ventura 150. Should have gotten a Ventura 200, which produces 2 more gal/hour, as long as the water is 50 degrees F or above. I never sail in water colder than that.)

Terry - I hadn't heard about needing to re-build our Spectra every 5 years either. Although, I'm guessing that involves changing out the membrane, which I did know we'll eventually need to do.

I did 30 days without a shower while sailing off the coast of Maine when I was about 20 years old. It really makes you enjoy that first shower. One of the women on our boat got a staph infection/boil on her arm during that trip, we think because of the lack of showers. I would like to avoid that. ;)

How did you get offshore weather info during the trip?
 
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I have done 30 days without a "shower" a couple times. And 1-2 weeks without a whole bunch of times. You can by saltwater soap that will make suds and work in saltwater. So, while I was without a "shower", I did get a daily or every other day wash with a bucket on deck. Drying with a towel removes the salt. There is no reason to not bathe when you are floating in unlimited water.
I also take ample baby wipes and hand sanitizer. "boat butt" is a serious condition from lack of hygiene, usually on the butt, and is actually a staph infection that can hospitalize you. I have never had it, but was educated by someone that had, to always use flushable baby wipes while on board for a lengthy trip.
 
Terry - I hadn't heard about needing to re-build our Spectra every 5 years either. Although, I'm guessing that involves changing out the membrane, which I did know we'll eventually need to do.

I did 30 days without a shower while sailing off the coast of Maine when I was about 20 years old. It really makes you enjoy that first shower. One of the women on our boat got a staph infection/boil on her arm during that trip, we think because of the lack of showers. I would like to avoid that. ;)

How did you get offshore weather info during the trip?
We have an Iridium SatPhone and an "optimizer" (creates wifi in the cabin) and a subscription to Predict Wind. It provides grib files to download to a laptop or tablet, but is incapable of successfully downloading large whole or half-ocean views of weather systems. We also have email using XGate. All from the SatPhone store in San Diego. System is 8 year's old, but still works. Voice calls are easier to accomplish than downloading weather or emails. Satellite connection is sometimes cranky. Musk's Starlink system allows better and faster downloads of websites. People cruising in Mexico now stream videos and movies. (Not my idea of cruising, altho I read dozens of books.) But... the Starlink system demands lots of power and most Starlink systems demand AC--an inverter required. I have only a puny 300 watt plug in inverter.
 
Although I have not tested it yet, T-Mobile now has Starlink connectivity once you go off service. Right now it's text message only, hoping that gets expanded into a small amount of data soon. Requires a smartphone that has that capability, I just bought one, so hope to try it next week in lake Huron.
 
I Have Starlink mini and it works flawlessly on my 12 V (I'm using thick an short power cables ), I install my antenna flat ( is less active area on the antenna) I activated only inshore subscription. When I was about 25 miles off shore Starlink didn't connect, around 15 miles from the shore connect again. Downloads of weather files thru starlink are faster than when I'm using my cell hot spot.
 
@mpearson When I circumnavigated, I used an Iridium Go!, similar to what Terry has, except there is no need for the optimizer or additional XGate software for email. It worked great with Predictwind, and had unlimited data (but too slow for nearly everything except Predictwind). The Iridium Go device was $800, plus it was $150 per month, plus the Predictwind Subscription, which if I remember was $129 per year.

Starlink is now cheaper, and the new mini doesn't even use much power. I now have a Starlink (not the mini because I got it before the mini was available) and a $50 per month plan. The $50 plan is plenty for weather and email, and getting on the internet for important news. If you are going to watch movies or spend your life on Facebook, you need a more expensive plan. There is a pay by the GB option for going offshore ($2 per GB last I checked) which works worldwide across oceans. 1 GB would be enough to get weather info for a 2 week voyage.

Starlink is comparable speeds to what most people would get with a basic cable Internet service at home.
 
@mpearson When I circumnavigated, I used an Iridium Go!, similar to what Terry has, except there is no need for the optimizer or additional XGate software for email. It worked great with Predictwind, and had unlimited data (but too slow for nearly everything except Predictwind). The Iridium Go device was $800, plus it was $150 per month, plus the Predictwind Subscription, which if I remember was $129 per year.

Starlink is now cheaper, and the new mini doesn't even use much power. I now have a Starlink (not the mini because I got it before the mini was available) and a $50 per month plan. The $50 plan is plenty for weather and email, and getting on the internet for important news. If you are going to watch movies or spend your life on Facebook, you need a more expensive plan. There is a pay by the GB option for going offshore ($2 per GB last I checked) which works worldwide across oceans. 1 GB would be enough to get weather info for a 2 week voyage.

Starlink is comparable speeds to what most people would get with a basic cable Internet service at home.

Yeah, we have Starlink on Zia, and that's what we used on our pacific crossing. It kind of blows my mind to have those speeds when you're 1,500 miles from land. Before that, we had Iridium for 8 years. It usually worked OK, but painfully slow. A flashback to my old 300 baud modem days.
 
This may be a bit off-topic for this thread...

We had an iridium GO aboard during the trip South to Cabo San Lucas and back. It gave us very marginal weather reports. I'd bought a Spot X to be able to send text and have a tracking that people onshore could watch. It was complete rubbish.
I now have a Starlink Mini mounted at the stern. I've only used it in the marina on San Francisco Bay, but it works pretty well. I have the 50gb/ $50 month plan. I'm typically aboard for about 2 weeks a month and use it like normal internet at home. I think the most I've seen is 37gb of data in a month.
Mitchell
 
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