• Welcome to this website/forum for people interested in the Morgan 38 Sailboat. Many of our members are 'owners' of Morgan 38s, but you don't need to be an owner to Register/Join.

Bilge Pump Switch options

Tim Eichel

Member
Has anyone ever used a Water Witch 230 bilge pump switch? One of the sailing sites rated it #1 about 15 years ago.....looks like the US and Canadian Coastguard use it. Any thought on this or other switches?

I am looking for a dependable switch for my upper 2nd bilge pump. This will be 8" or so above the floor of the bilge. I know all about the Ultra Safety switches and have had one in the past which seemed to collect oil and gum up a bit.

Here is a link to the Water Witch;


Any feedback would be appreciated.
 
Looks interesting. I suppose you’re going to have to be the guinea pig and tell us how it works out once installed :)
 
I went with an "Air switch" earlier this year. And added a Counter to keep track of how much it discharged. So far, so good as they say. The Water Witch switch looks interesting.
Mitchell
 
Groco make an air actuated diaphragm switch which is mounted well clear of the bilge with only a small tube extending down near the pump. We've have one that's been working fine for many years.

Jim
 
I have two Johnson Pump Ultima electronic switches for my two bilge pumps. Very simple to install and no moving parts. I have had no problems for three summer seasons now. I think they are about $60 each.
I agree that float switches are a pain and not reliable, especially if you have an oil leak to gum them up. I don't know how many I replaced over the years in the previous boat. The trouble with the Morgan 382 bilge is that it is deep, dark, and not very accessible so hard to monitor and check on the float switch.
 
My groco switch failed after 3 years, which was 10 times longer than any other switch I tried. Several switches failed after only one time offshore in rough seas. Definitely get a counter, I learned that a typical switch can actuate 1000's of times in 24 hours of rough seas. I will never use a float switch in the bilge again. That's just a horrible idea.

I am now trying the Jabsco pressure switch that is similar to the groco. The groco was metal and corroded and failed. The Jabsco is sealed in plastic, and also has some electrics in it-requires a 3rd wire for ground. Time will tell.

Nice about both of them is that they can be checked and serviced without going into the bilge. I mounted it under the galley sink.

 
I've had good service from the Aqualarm products, both their switch and pump monitor (installed in 2015). I've never had a problem. The switch is technically a float switch, but it's not like most. All of the electronics are completely sealed and are activated by some sort of proximity switch. The monitor is great to have aboard. The air switches are interesting, too.

Aqualarm Bilge Pump Monitor

Aqualarm Smart Bilge Pump Switch
 
I had an Ultima switch and a regular float switch in my boat when a lightning strike hit the mast. The Ultima was killed, but the float switch survived, as did the pumps. Also, most of the LED lights aboard were blown, while the incandescent bulbs survived.
 
I just I ordered the Jabsco Hydro Air switch that Warren has. I think I will also buy the Water Witch 230 in a few weeks to replace my rule float switch that is on my lower primary bilge pump. I will re-post if any issues. As always thank you for the responses!!
 
When installing this 2nd bilge pump I need to find and configure a discharge port for the water. I am considering drilling a hole on the port side, above the water line, a couple feet or so below the side deck drain. I would use this for the 2nd bilge discharge but also reroute the cockpit drain to the same through hull. Any other ideas on where to discharge this 2nd bilge? I really hate to drill holes in my boat.....
 
The air switch I installed is the Jabsco as well, but it hasn't been more than 6 or 8 months ago. So far it functions as it should. But I feel it hasn't had much "testing"
I mounted it on the forwrd wall (bulkhead) up high in the hanging locker just forward of the nav station, along with a counter. Easy to get to, to route the wiring and to monitor. I am also adding a second pump. Which will function as the primary pump. Smaller with an auto electronic switch which is internal. As per a chapter in "This Old Boat" book. Anyway, I too, am still tryng to decide where to discharge the pump out. And HATE drilling holes.

The only issue with the Jabsco switch I might relate, was that at first it would run constantly when powered up. I bypassed it for a while and couldn't figure out the problem. I called Jabsco and was told by tech that there is an adjustment screw for sensitivity, on-off. I didn't see any reference in the instructions. Anyway, the sightest turn of the screw fixed that issue. The Guy at Jabsco was excelent for what it's worth.
Mitchell
 
Mitchell, thanks for the heads up on the Jabsco switch. I was able to locate a possible discharge without drilling a hole. The manual bilge pump is discharged via the torpedo tube. I could add a "Y" hose connector (or something like that) and discharge the second pump that location. Does anyone see a problem with both pumps discharging to the same opening on the torpedo tube? Maybe if I was running the elec pump and the manual at the same time...not enough room for both to flow? The opening is fairly big.....forgot to measure it though. My bilge pump hose will be 1 1/2".
 
Some notes on discharge location. You should not have multiple bilge pumps on the same through hull, and you also shouldn't have a pump attach to a cockpit drain. The factory pump does attach to the cockpit drain(torpedo tube), and I had to change that to qualify for offshore racing. If not racing, I wouldn't have bothered changing it, but I would not add another one to it. If you DID decide to add another pump to the torpedo tube, you could probably do so on the other side with simple PVC pipe fittings without needing a "Y"

The higher above the waterline, the lower the volume of water the pump will move. A 3000gph pump will not pump anywhere near that if the through hull is much higher than the bilge where the pump is. On the other-hand, a through-hull close to the waterline will be under water while heeled. You will need to use a below the waterline rated hose, and loop it up higher than you expect the water to come, and might even consider a vented loop.

For my boat, I have 3 pumps total, and 3 separate through hulls. 2 on the port side, and one on the starboard side. They are as high as practicable, and toward the stern of the boat. About in line with the helm seat, where I can access them from that locker. Using larger and multiple pumps is the compromise I made to keep the through hulls where they will never be submerged.

PS, This summer I drained a portable A/C unit into the bilge, and the Jabsco triggered multiple times per day. It's not been installed very long, but has worked great.
 
I completely agree with Warren on discharging the seperate pumps. My new small pump will be routed out the stern near the hull/transom edge somewhere. When I have someone to help with installing the thru hull fitting.

Just a "for what it's worth"...
Our boat did the Pacific Cup and other coastal racing before we aquired her, so I imagine this is a result of Ocean Racing Regs. But worth considering. And I am a fan of redundancy with bilge pumps anyway ;)
We have one large electric pump now that I will move higher in the bilge and mount the small pump on the bilge floor as the primary or "everyday pump"
There are also 2 hand pumps on Sonata. One HUGE Edson manual, mounted to the inside of the engine bay/quarter berth bulkhead. Handle is accessible next the the laddur. The other manual pump is smaller and mounted to pump from the helm. They all discharge seperately.
Mitchell
 
I was in the Pacific Cup in 2018 with Eliana.

Having 2 manual pumps, one above and one below decks is a rule for the pacific cup. There is no requirement for an electric pump. That is worth noting because that rule comes with years of experience of post accident investigations. Electric pumps will fail when you need them most, if the boat is rolled or pooped on the batteries may likely fail.

Many boats in the Pacific Cup have pump failures because of crud that washes from all over the inside of the hull to the bilge after they get underway. If you drop a space connecter in just about any inaccessible place it will eventually find its way into the bilge and jam the pump. So it is very good to take a hose and spray every accessible place and wash out the dust/grime before you get under way.
 
Hi Warren, Yes good info.
I have looked at the Pac Cup rules, though honestly don't recall what is there in refence to pumps. I hope I didn't sound negative regarding the number of pumps on Sonata. I realize they are there as a result of the boat competeing. And I am happy for all the redundancy on our boat.
It is amazing how much little crap finds its way to the bilge too. Washing out the debris is a great piece of advice.
I regard the electric pumps as a convenience, and for the times when we are away from the boat. In an emergency, they may help but the Big Manual Edson would do the bulk of the work. It moves a lot of water.
My experience has taught me most race rules are implemneted due to "inceidents" having occured in the past. Lessons, if you will.
It is the same in the auto racing world, and I expect any type of racing. And some trickle down to everyday life. It is ususally a good thing.
Mitchell
 
Here is my installation of the Air switch and counter on Sonata. Small hanging locker forward of the Nav. Station. The Allen wrench is just threre temporarily for adjusting the sensitivity.
Mitchell
20201010_131657.jpg
 
I sent an inquiry to Water Witch about oil contamination yesterday. They replied that they had tested it extensively with a 1/4 inch of oil and that it delayed the actuation slightly until the oil floated past the sensors. I subsequently purchased one as they were on sale at Go2Marine.
 
I have differnt problem, and maybe many of you have it too.
My pump discharges just below deck level.
Bilge switch turns off, water goes back from the discharge hose to the bilge and
switch turns on, and so on. It is more often when I'm offoshore. I have manual switch to bypass bilge switch and turning pump on for few more seconds helps. I need switch with on time delay to discharge water left in the hose.
I will try Jabsco switch to see if I can adjusted discharge time.
If anybody has solved this problem please let me know.
Yurek
 
There is solution with two switches (on different levels ) and relay. I may try this.
Yurek.
 
Yurek, This is just a guess, but it sounds like your bilge pump switch may be mounted to low.
Other than that, you might try a non return in-line valve. But they will impeed some outbound flow as well.
Jim, you beat me to the check valve...
Mitchell
 
Update, I have installed the 3700 GPH Rule 2nd bilge pump 12" above the bilge floor, it may be too high but I split the difference of the 24-26"" deep bilge. I epoxied marine plywood to the Fuel tank outer wall and then screwed the aluminum mount for the bilge pump and the plastic Jabsco air bell into that wood. I fabricated the mount from Home Depot aluminum bar stock. I took out the small port side drawer and mounted the Jabsco air switch to the back of the galley wall.

I took Warren's advise and drilled a new hole through the hull to match same height as the factory one on the starboard side, took out some foam core and added epoxy to seal.

The hardest part was running the new 1.5" hose under the stove and fridge. I had to cut an access underneath the stove to work the hose through to the back of the boat. All works very well.

Thank you all for your input on this project!!
 

Attachments

  • 1.JPG
    1.JPG
    3.8 MB · Views: 27
  • 2.JPG
    2.JPG
    2.7 MB · Views: 27
  • 3.JPG
    3.JPG
    3.3 MB · Views: 24
  • 4.JPG
    4.JPG
    1.5 MB · Views: 25
  • 5.JPG
    5.JPG
    1.7 MB · Views: 25
  • 6.JPG
    6.JPG
    2.7 MB · Views: 28
  • 7.JPG
    7.JPG
    578 KB · Views: 25
  • 8.JPG
    8.JPG
    790 KB · Views: 26
  • 9.JPG
    9.JPG
    1.5 MB · Views: 32
Tim- That sounds like a good installation - a large capacity high level pump with a large diameter discharge hose from the pump. Then the primary every day pump can be a small pump with a small diameter hose, set lower at the bottom of the bilge. A small pump can pump to a very low level and when it shuts off the back flow from the small hose is a small amount of water and hopefully will not trigger the pump to start again. The back flow from a large hose can be a large volume and more likely to cause that endless recycling that Yurek mentions.
Blue Sea makes a nice control panel set up for two bilge pumps.
 
Yurek,
After my boat's lightening hit caused a small leak,, I installed what you mentioned with a relay and switch to eliminate the short cycling of my small pump. See wiring diagram below.
It uses two float switches, a standard on-off relay, and a DPDT selector switch for low water level or high water level control. The only issue that I didn't work out was that when the high level control is selected with the switch, a jammed open lower float will prevent the pump from running, even though the high level float tries to start the pump. However, manual control from the cockpit can override that.
The drawing depicts the pump running after the high level float has energized the relay, which is in a latched state. As soon as the lower switch opens, the pump and relay de-energize, and return the system to start the pump when the high level float shuts again. The deadband associated with the float switch elevation difference determines how much water you want to tolerate in the bilge.
 

Attachments

  • 20201119_201656.jpg
    20201119_201656.jpg
    2 MB · Views: 33
Last edited:
Thank you guys! I forgot to add that I added a manual a switch so I can turn from auto to manual for this 2nd bilge pump. This switch is mounted in the quarter berth, on the wall, right inside the companionway.
 

Attachments

  • file-150.jpeg
    file-150.jpeg
    2 MB · Views: 26
Richard:
I'm surprise that there is not switch on the market with adjustable level hysteresis.
Are you satisfied with this solution?
Two level switching should also prevent from cycling pump on rough seas.
I like your idea with option: low switch only which is standard solution.
Yurek.
 
Yurek,
There are some pump switches with time delays that reduce short cycling, but I wasn't aware of any when I built this in '15. So far it has worked well since then. I have the upper float switch located about 6 inches above the level of the lower one that is about 1" off the bilge floor. I haven't been in any seas over 3 ft., so can't say how it behaves on the outside. It does prevent the hose backflow from short cycling the pump though.
I mounted the selector switch and relay under the galley sink, but one could put them anywhere handy. The added complexity is relatively minor since there are no lightning sensitive electronics involved.
 
Back
Top