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I second Jim Cleary's exhaustelbows.com as he suggested to me last season. Custom made SS elbow in 2021 for my Perkins 4108. Excellent workmanship, fast service and reasonably priced.

Dave, I replaced the busbar in the engine compartment and redid all connections including using the compound that Jim Cleary suggested. I also replaced a busbar connected to the bilge pump. I am in the process of redoing all those connections. Warren, My MFD reads 12.6 V at the unit as the...

Thanks for chiming in, Jim. I first noticed a subtle difference in the performance of the bilge pump. The radar became an issue last season. The fact that only these two systems seem affected supports the connection theory that you Mark brought up, and Warren's thought about a common ground...

Thank you, guys. I'll do some testing using your suggestions and report back.

Hey Mark, I load tested the 3 batteries individually with an automotive load tester, the one with the heating element. These may be two of the largest draws, however the isssue occurs if each is the only curcuit drawing power. Rich

Hey Everyone, I have a strange electrical issue that has me stumped. I have noticed this situation on two separate circuits: bilge pump and radar. When hooked up to shore power, both function correctly. When on battery power only, the bilge pump works at a much slower pace and the radar dome...

Looks great! Payment sent via Paypal.

Looks amazing! Cave does too!

Please add me to the list. Thank you, Rich

Hey Jim, I have a PRM 90. I do not know if this would be useable for your engine. Maybe check out the specs and see if it might work with the clearances and gear ratios that you need.

Those look great! I just ordered a T-shirt. Thank you

Hi pmf44, Would you share the dimensions of the teak steps if you still have access to the ladder? Thank you in advance, Rich

After removing (digging out effectively) the flange, it seemed as if it was sunk into the hull leaving only about 1/4" hull thickness where it had been. Frank mentioned the plastic "thru hull". It was threaded up into the flange of the seacock, but was not countersunk. It merely plugged the...

Thanks, Terry. Jim Cleary gave me the same advice. Going to go with the regular mushroom thru hull.

Here are some of the internals of the "mound" so far. Tomorrow's task will be to excavate the flange.

My plan is to use a multi-tool and cut the pyramid of fiberglass at its base to remove the seacock, install a backing plate, and a new seacock. Unless someone has a better suggestion or reason that is a bad idea? Mushroom thru hull or one with a strainer/grate?

To further add to my confusion, the hole through the hull is 1" diameter, the valve seems to be 1-1/2", the hose that attaches the seacock to the raw water strainer is 1-5/8" ID. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

The seacock needs to be replaced. :( If the seacock need to be replaced, the ball valve should unscrew from a "base" of some kind that is embedded in the fiberglass mound? Or does the mound need to be grinded down to remove the whole thing? I was confused by some of the other threads on this topic.

Thanks, Stephen. I am going to try to plug the opening in the hull and fill the valve with penetrating oil overnight. Hopefully, it will free up the ball.