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Welcome to this website/forum for people interested in the Morgan 38 Sailboat. Many of our members are 'owners' of Morgan 38s, but you don't need to be an owner to Register/Join.
Peter, if the teak veneer has not delaminated - that is, if the only damage is to the varnish on the teak veneer and no structural damage, you could try removing the varnish without damaging the veneer using, e.g., mineral spirits and 3M Scotch-bright (the yellow ones, not the blue ones) -...
Jim, I re-posted the Part I pdf.
In the meantime, here's the link to Part I of the article (the issue of Cruising world is archived in Google Books).
You may have to use the vertical slider to scroll up a page or two in Google Books...
Jim, here's the (two-part) article by Dave Gerr that I think you're referring to (from Cruising World, Jan-Feb 1987) (I apologize for the horrible file names)
"Simplify Your Sail Handling"
Part I:
Part II:
Tom Kluberton, thanks for the excellent original drawing - I didn't ave one.
Jim Cleary, thanks for the reproduction thrust washers.
I plan to install reproduction thrust washers by removing the gudgeon with the rudder supported and twisting the slitted washer open.
Here's a photo I took this morning showing considerable dew/condensation on the outside of the hatch and none inside the hatch.
Image by scundy2 posted Jun 14, 2016 at 5:55 AM
Jeff, yes I considered the possibility that the increased BTU's would probably increase the condensation both outside the hatch and on the inside, too.
However, in the few days since I applied the tape over the channel, the leaking has completely stopped and the inside of the hatch is bone dry...
My 1979 382's companionway hatch has developed a leak around the aft port corner.
I believe that's automotive safety glass in the hatch, but I have no idea what was used to fasten and seal the glass to the fiberglass/plywood hatch.
I apologize for the poor quality of the attached pictures. It...
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