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Family and work obligations have prevented us from continuing our work on our boat these past few years, so we have decided that we should sell our boat to someone who can finish the dream we started. The boat is in a boatyard in Deltaville, VA. It is not currently seaworthy, with most...

Thanks for the picture album Jeff. The area of damage are nearly 100% the same as those on my boat, and we followed the same steps. I still am amazed to see such voids in the aft hull past the keel, and continue to wonder how many Morgan 38x have that issue without the owners knowing it...

Jim, personally I did hire a surveyor when buying the boat and he pointed out just a few real blisters on the keel (the ones that make a dimple, and are pressurized), but completely missed the 400 other voids (approximation, I stopped counting after 200) everywhere, including those 4 square feet...

These aren't just blisters. Blisters form on the outer layers of the fiberglass, and can be popped with a simple screwdriver. They can be indeed seen on every boat. What I show in my pictures, and what I believe I see in others, are much deeper "blisters", difficult to find, that can even...

Hi guys, Just adding to this thread from a question posted in a different thread: ""Tangent question: I had seen photos of Calypso previously (attached) and was considering the design of the bimini, radar & wind gen posts. It looks like you took all of those contraptions off - is that just...

Ok, I found you guys already did so at: Click here for older thread. I'll answer your question there then :)

Hi Mark, To keep this thread focused on delimitation on M382, could you please start a new thread to discuss bikini-dodger designs? I can certainly give more info about Calypso design, pros and cons, as well as a design I have seen recently on a M383 that (in my opinion) was great...

Thanks for the kind words Roger. In our boat, after X years of leaking there is a 1 foot square dead mush at the bottom of the companionway. Our plan is to remove the teak & holly in the entire kitchen area (it isn't so hot looking anyway due to water damage in that area), replace the...

Hi Roger, Do you mean how I sealed it temporarily or completely? If it happens to you only when trimmed slightly by the bow when on stands, then you simply need a way to divert the water before it get underneath the companionway teak. Blue tape and zip locks works great. What I did...

Pictures here:

Hi guys, Plywood wouldn't have cut it, not with the pressure and force applied to chainplates. The islands are made of structural fiberglass, 1/4 to 3/8" thick and bedded to the deck using epoxy thickened with hard bonding compound. It took me long enough to cut them even with a carbide...

[Double Post]

Hey Lee, Since you already removed the chain plates, and cleaned them up, take the time to inspect them carefully. Don Casey recommend using a dye, but with mine, honestly the naked eye was sufficient for most, and a hobby magnifying glass (used for jewelry making or stamp enthusiasts) for a...

Well, speaking of resizing, I forgot to do that one. Here it is again. Mistakes like that however shouldnt detract us from posting pictures otherwise the purpose of the board is failing.

Hi Lee, My email is phboujon@gmail.com. Ok, here is another picture. It isn't clear sorry, I can't find a good one and I am not at the boat. You can see where the chainplate used to be, behind that teak cover. Now, if you don't have anything... well, then I don't know, maybe a...

Lee, Did you remove the teak box that my arrow is pointing to? It is screwed to some wood support. Once removed, it should reveal the chain plate that look like an L (second picture). Cheers Philippe

Lee, What you identified in the head is a backing plate Both starboard and port upper internal chainplates are located behind the teak covers to which your settees overhead reading lights are attached. Those internal chainplates are bolted through the partial bulkhead to a backing plate...

Hi Jesse, I'd be interested in pictures and info on your work with the trident drop-in as well. Cheers Philippe

Hi Dave, Thanks for the tip. I think that's where I am headed for now, placing a thin wood spacer under the inside frame. I'll let the board know how it goes when I am done. Philippe

Hey Alan, Thanks, that explains a lot. The inside cabin teak was compressed already when I removed the port lights, maybe as much as 1/16 to 1/8. I already filled the hollow between the teak and fiberglass by thick epoxy, but never thought about the difference in thickness between top and...