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  1. M

    Replacing Rudder

    The skeg did have some damage, but it doesn't look bad. The paint was scraped off, and you can see the resin straight through in strong sunlight. I'll take a picture next time I'm at the boat. The damage to the keel is only on the solid part. Still haven't had a chance to talk to the repair...
  2. M

    Track on front of Mast

    Ken Ferrari - Did you replace the Mainsail track, or add a track to the front of the mast for a whisker/spinnaker pole? I can't imagine a track for a whisker/spin pole would require dozens of screws, as it only goes up the mast about six feet...
  3. M

    Bottom paint amount

    Depends on what paint you use... Ablative needs more quarts, the thinner hard paints require less. I would use the Interlux painting guide - I found it a huge help in calculating how much paint was needed when I re-did the bottom several years ago.
  4. M

    Replacing Rudder

    I'll also add that these boats were built like tanks! Some of the more delicate racing machines in the harbor would have suffered far greater damage...
  5. M

    Replacing Rudder

    And now there keel, with the damage on the port side... I still don't have an estimate of the cost of repairs. Unfortunately, the yard won't let me replace the rudder myself, so if I decide to replace it, I'll have to pay for the workers... though I could certainly reduce the cost by first...
  6. M

    Replacing Rudder

    So the boat's been pulled and I got a good look at the damage. All things considered, it could have been a lot worse. Pics of both the keel and the rudder are attached. First, the rudder, which is clearly split amongst the seam...
  7. M

    Replacing Rudder

    I don't know yet if the skeg has been damaged. All I know is what the diver told me - "the bottom of the rudder is badly damaged, and split, enough where I could put my fist into the hole. You also have some damage to the keel, low down on the port side". So he could mean the skeg, or the true...
  8. M

    Replacing Rudder

    Had a bit of a blow in Long Island Sound in late September. As a result, Shepherd's Star broke free of its mooring (the underwater 1-3/4" line had been frayed through) and started to head for a local breakwater. Thankfully, Sea Tow was right there, grabbed the boat, and brought it safely to...
  9. M

    Just put a 384 (gorma) under contract. Anything particular a surveyor should look for?

    Find out from the previous owner, while you can, what he/she has done to maintain and improve the vessel. If they've kept careful and accurate records, that's a good thing. If they're honest, you'll want to know what problems they've had that can linger - like hull blisters, lightning strikes...
  10. M

    382 Mainsheet Tackle

    Bruce - My original 1979 mainsheet tackle was a 7:1 tackle. The upper block was a classic Harken triple with becket, 76mm. The bottom block had a Harken classic triple (76mm) on top of a rotating ratchet block with a cam cleat. About a year ago, I replaced it with a Ronstan RF72700 two-speed...
  11. M

    Compass light circuit

    Rick - When wiring a compass, you need to use twisted wires, or else you'll have a electro-magnetic field right near the compass - not good! Edson sells some at a pretty expensive price, or you can simply twist your own. When I re-wired my boat 2 or 3 years ago, I removed all "mystery"...
  12. M

    Cabin lights

    Tim - Don't mess with AC! If your new panel is a Bluesea panel, it will tell you if your shore power has reverse polarity BEFORE you throw the switch to the on position (assuming, of course, that you've wired it correctly). As Jose said, it's a matter of where the hot wire is fed into -...
  13. M

    Vangs and Tangs

    Terry - I believe the existing traveler track was made by a manufacturer no longer in business, but others might have more info. I've asked Santa for a Garhauer traveller, but I think Mrs. Santa might end up giving me a tie or scarf, or something equally useless on a boat. (Sigh) Matt
  14. M

    Shower sump plumbing, 1979 M-382

    Melinda - TDenney is spot on about the vented loop. Without that anti-syphoning device, there's multiple ways your boat can sink quickly - pump failure, hose failure, etc. And insurance won't pay up when they discover the plumbing was faulty (i.e., no vented loop). I'm also surprised you...
  15. M

    Bilge pump Install

    Also, if you do decide to use an impeller type or Flojet/Jabsco, you'll need to put in a fine mesh screen on the intake, which will further reduce the effectiveness of the pump.
  16. M

    Bilge pump Install

    If I were to go postal and shoot six co-workers, I'd rather be sentenced to 50 years hard labor with no chance of parole rather than 5 weeks of re-wiring another boat! It's a lot more than I bargained for, but in the end, I'm glad I did it - I know the boat a lot better, I improved the OEM...
  17. M

    Anchor weight

    I have "used" the bowroller that came with the boat (again, in quotes b/c I have yet to actually use the ground tackle). I found that the Manson did fit on the bow roller, but I needed to lash it in place using two or three short cords, b/c the anchor head swinging might have gouged the topsides...
  18. M

    Tools

    looks like we should all buy a second Morgan to act as a chase boat, with all the supplies and spares stored below!
  19. M

    Fixture in the head!

    Although I didn't replace the head flourescent, I did replace the galley and main cabin flourescents, with a brand called "Thin Light", I believe. Didn't look into LEDs, but there must be something out there. Regarding the batteries, your best bet is to talk to a battery expert, and you'll...
  20. M

    Auto Pilot Problems ST6000

    John I'd suggest you go online and download the Raymarine ST6000 manual. As far as the best way to charge the batteries, it depends on how they're wired up, what type they are (AGM, Gell, Flooded, etc), and how they're being charged (what kind of charger - "smart" or simple). I bought new...
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