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Installing the 382 Cockpit Traveler

I have a 1979 Morgan 382, in process of re-installing the traveler I realized I have a puzzle on my hand. I tried to search and didn't come up with anything.

If any one has done this I would love to chat with you. Most posts are about moving it from cockpit to over the cabin. (Im keeping it down in cockpit)

The traveler is pretty much hollow underneath, the bolts go through the traveler (3 on each side) how do you seal the bolts that come though the traveler than have about inch of threads (where its hollow) and than go in to the glass than obviously come out and I have backing plates, washers, lock washers and a nut.

Here is my drawing to explain this.
I Use Butyl tape and I love this stuff but in this scenario I don't know what to do, if I'm missing a big peace of this puzzle that's obvious to anyone, I'm all ears for any suggestions.

Also are there other parts that should go with the traveler ? Something that it sits on ? spacers ? I didn't take it apart so I don't know how it goes back together.

Thanks
 

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I replaced my cockpit traveler but I just went ahead and put in a harken track. You need to fabricate a backing plate for the inside. Seal with 4200.
 
I removed my traveller and had it re-anodized. You may want to do as
christopher did and get a new traveller--consider Garhauer. I added their control lines,,blocks and end cleats. I wish I had gotten a new traveller. Here is the problem: you cannot replace the car that carries the mainsheet. It is old and, although mine still works, I anticipate problems. Rigrite claims to carry them, but doesn't. And if you search "Rigrite" on the forum, you will discover why, even if they had them, they might not tell you. I also had to cut out part of my aft teak facing at the bottom end of the 1/4 berth to get to the nuts, but it sounds as if that is not an issue for you. On sealing, don't use 5200 or even 4200. stick with high quality butyl from Compass Marine. Here is what I did, if I can remember right: I put fender washers (for 1/4" bolts) on the bottom of the traveller, spanning the gap across the bottom of the traveller. The bolts went thru the fender washers. Of course, I also countersunk the holes, to accept the butyl. I also put some butyl along the bottom of the traveller, . Then when I tightened the nuts (always tighten nuts, not the bolts), the butyl was squeezed around and into the holes by the fender washers, sealing it. I have not been in any major rain since the job, but I don't expect leaks. I have washed the boat, with no leakage.
 
I replaced the traveler on our 1978 382 five years ago and of course being a pack rat I still have the original one. I found it this morning and took a couple of photos so you can see the original factory sealant- some kind of white stuff that feels like silicone, laid down over the contact area. There is something also around the one bolt that remains.
The traveller track beam has open pin stop holes so it doesn't protect the mounting bolt holes and they don't seem to have been sealed particularly well.
IMG_2588.jpgIMG_2589.jpgI I think you could use a strip of butyl tape down each side and across the ends to mimic the factory sealant. and put a ring of it around each bolt. If you wanted to do more you could make an aluminum plate between the traveller and the fiberglass, that you could seal.
If anyone needs an old traveler for parts let me know.
 
I replaced the traveler on our 1978 382 five years ago and of course being a pack rat I still have the original one. I found it this morning and took a couple of photos so you can see the original factory sealant- some kind of white stuff that feels like silicone, laid down over the contact area. There is something also around the one bolt that remains.
The traveller track beam has open pin stop holes so it doesn't protect the mounting bolt holes and they don't seem to have been sealed particularly well.
View attachment 8602View attachment 8603I I think you could use a strip of butyl tape down each side and across the ends to mimic the factory sealant. and put a ring of it around each bolt. If you wanted to do more you could make an aluminum plate between the traveller and the fiberglass, that you could seal.
If anyone needs an old traveler for parts let me know.
Would love to get the traveler at least so I can get the ends from it :)
 
I removed my traveller and had it re-anodized. You may want to do as
christopher did and get a new traveller--consider Garhauer. I added their control lines,,blocks and end cleats. I wish I had gotten a new traveller. Here is the problem: you cannot replace the car that carries the mainsheet. It is old and, although mine still works, I anticipate problems. Rigrite claims to carry them, but doesn't. And if you search "Rigrite" on the forum, you will discover why, even if they had them, they might not tell you. I also had to cut out part of my aft teak facing at the bottom end of the 1/4 berth to get to the nuts, but it sounds as if that is not an issue for you. On sealing, don't use 5200 or even 4200. stick with high quality butyl from Compass Marine. Here is what I did, if I can remember right: I put fender washers (for 1/4" bolts) on the bottom of the traveller, spanning the gap across the bottom of the traveller. The bolts went thru the fender washers. Of course, I also countersunk the holes, to accept the butyl. I also put some butyl along the bottom of the traveller, . Then when I tightened the nuts (always tighten nuts, not the bolts), the butyl was squeezed around and into the holes by the fender washers, sealing it. I have not been in any major rain since the job, but I don't expect leaks. I have washed the boat, with no leakage.
Hi Terry,
Put a Butyl tape on the bottom and around the bolts but since there is no pressure I feel like the butyl tape is not going to do its job. When you say Fender washers, did the fender washers raise the traveler? I thought about putting washers but than was thinking it would be raised and not as firm since this takes a heavy load from the sail. Thanks again for your suggestions.
 
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