• Welcome to this website/forum for people interested in the Morgan 38 Sailboat. Many of our members are 'owners' of Morgan 38s, but you don't need to be an owner to Register/Join.

Anchor Locker

Brian_Burk

New Member
Hi all, looking for some wisdom for a new owner of a 1978 Morgan 382. Trying to figure out the root problem and what corrective action may look like.

After researching anchor lockers on the forum, it appears the lower anchor locker was opened up and a divider was installed separating the chain for the two anchors the boat has on the bow rollers. The dividing board is glassed in and forms a 'T', one board is oriented forward/aft and the other board runs parallel with the forward bulkhead and blocks the opening to the chain locker in the v-berth. The board that runs along the bulkhead as part of the divider system clearly has rot as it appears water had been getting in. My guess is that water was dripping in just below where an inner forestay was installed as the location seems inline where the most rot is found. Maybe the glassing there had failed and allowed water to drip down? What gives me hope is that when tapping on the actual bulkhead from inside the v-berth, all areas seem solid with no variation in sound. I tend to believe the only rot is in this divider system board and not the actual bulkhead. The dividing board that runs parallel to the bulkhead also sounds solid when tapping from the anchor locker side, but I assume this is because it is glassed in.

My thought is that the presumed leak at the inner forestay needs to be sealed and the rotten wood removed. To do this, would you recommend removing the rotted wood from the v-berth opening and filling the voids with a filler as not all areas are rotted? Should the entire divider system be removed and the anchor locker re-fiberglassed? I am interested in hearing thoughts.

Thanks in advance!
 

Attachments

  • 20201108_142233.jpg
    20201108_142233.jpg
    1.6 MB · Views: 28
  • 20201108_141756.jpg
    20201108_141756.jpg
    1.6 MB · Views: 29
  • 20201108_111645.jpg
    20201108_111645.jpg
    1.3 MB · Views: 27
  • 20201108_111627.jpg
    20201108_111627.jpg
    1.3 MB · Views: 26
Congratulations on your new boat!

I would start out by removing both pieces of the tee. They do not look to have been sealed/glassed over. The locker gets quite wet so they should be completely sealed. The plans Ted Brewer drew for adding an inner stay require that the bulkhead is doubled up. So you should also be sure that was done and add that piece if necessary. The original bulkhead was completely glassed over, so is probably intact, unless water entered though the bolt holes drilled though it.

I believe the deck area around the locker has a plywood core. You should check that when addressing the leak. Water getting in the locker isn't really all that bad as the area is meant to be wet. However if water gets into the deck core that rot is harder to repair. Typically to install something though it you should cut out an area larger than the hole you need, fill the hole with resin, then cut your hole in the resin so the plywood remains sealed. If that was done you should be able to just seal it with 4200.

Once you remove everything, it's up to you what to do with it. It should be pretty easy to just remove the old wood and replace with new wood and glass it all over. If you need to double the bulkhead that shouldn't be difficult either. But, you will have a clean slate and can do whatever would work best for you.
 
The original aft bulkhead of the anchor locker, to which the staysail chainplate is attached, was not glassed to the deck. If yours is not glassed to the deck, you will also want to remedy that defect.
 
Thank you both for the input. After some research, the fiberglass work for the new tee doesn't look too difficult. And since its in the anchor locker, it doesn't need to look pretty which would be a good place to learn a new skill. This will be a good winter project.

For removal of the existing tee, what method/tools would you recommend to prevent damaging the surrounding bulkhead and hull? The tee looks to be somewhat fiberglassed in, although it could have been done better. I've read about using a heat gun to a saw with a metal cutting blade. Thoughts?
 
I would begin with a Multi Tool to do your cutting. There a lot on the market today. I have a DeWalt cordless just because I have numerous other DeWalt 20v tools. I have used it on boats to cut bulkheads and panels that have been Fiber-glassed to the hull with excellent results. Should do the job well if there is enough room to use the tool. Wear ear plugs, the noise is horrendous.
something like this...
Mitchell
 
I would begin with a Multi Tool to do your cutting. There a lot on the market today. I have a DeWalt cordless just because I have numerous other DeWalt 20v tools. I have used it on boats to cut bulkheads and panels that have been Fiber-glassed to the hull with excellent results. Should do the job well if there is enough room to use the tool. Wear ear plugs, the noise is horrendous.
something like this...
Mitchell
I 100% agree. The oscillating tool was a game-changer for structural and trim work on the boat. It reduces misery by at least 50%.

If you’re not a tool hound, harbor freight sells a halfway decent one for $20. Should last the job at least. The DeWalt one is an excellent tool though, bang-for-buck.
 
Back
Top