Windlass Install Update

Discussion in 'Main Morgan 38 Sailboat Forum' started by schlepper, Jul 11, 2019.

  1. schlepper

    schlepper John m. Harrison

    Joined:
    Aug 20, 2012
    Messages:
    269
    This is to update the board and also share with Richard Noddin on my windlass install. I have 135' of 8 plait rode, spliced to 50' of 5/16" galvanized chain, attached to a 35 lb. CQR. I'll try to post a pic of the setup. The windlass is mounted to a platform I made out of plywood, 1 x 2 oak strips, and fiberglass, resin, and Awlgrip. I also fashioned a forward locker hatch with a countersunk handle so I still have the original equipment full locker lid intact if I ever decide to do something different.... It seems to work fine so far, the rode-chain fall being fairly deep, i haven't yet had any issues and thanks to Lee Nicholas for his help and encouragement to keep going and 'gittr done'.... the Windlass in the setup I have, had to be mounted to Port, off centerline, otherwise, the rode and chain will be wrapping against the chromed 'toe' that projects forward which guides the rode & chain to drop in the anchor well... Hope this helps any other RC8-8 installers...
     

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  2. struell

    struell Stephen Ruell

    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2014
    Messages:
    47
    Home Port:
    Belfast ME
    Hi John:
    Your windlass installation looks great. I am in process of installing the same Maxwell windlass RC8-8 with the 8 plait rode, and want to ask
    how your anchor rode worked out as regards the drop into the original upper anchor compartment? Is there enough drop so that the rode behaves well when retrieving the anchor or do you have to help it?
    Steve
     
  3. schlepper

    schlepper John m. Harrison

    Joined:
    Aug 20, 2012
    Messages:
    269
    Stephen, I cut out the aft end of the anchor locker and tabbed and mechanically fastened a divider in the upper locker (angled so as to allow water to drain off, with a recess cut out of the divider so I can access the electrical connections on the windlass motor, and then repainted the entire upper locker in bilgekote white. I just put the 5200 with a caulk gun around the edges of it yesterday to give it a more finished look. I had not problem with the rode and chain falling into the now deeper aft end of the locker. I have not yet mounted a cleat on the windlass platform as I'm not sure I want that up there to catch toes, ankles, etc. and instead, might put a payee there... I'll tie the rode off on one of the port or starboard cleats. Somewhere in my media page on the site, you can see the progression of the previously rotted upper locker floor on the aft end, where I tabbed over the existing bulkhead and sealed off the anchor locker from the v-berth, built a false floor in the bottom of the anchor locker, drilled a drain hole so water can exit, and then was ready for the windlass install.... hope this helps. It sounds like a lot of stuff to do but if you do it in small steps, it's not so bad.
     

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  4. Richard Noddin

    Richard Noddin Member

    Joined:
    Apr 8, 2015
    Messages:
    47
    Home Port:
    Green Cove Springs Marina, Jacksonville, FL
    Thanks, John, for the update!
    Did you use the standard deck clearance model RC8-8 or the extra clearance one? I am seeing about 5" or more blocking necessary under the wIndlass and wonder how to get enough material to allow finger access to the plastic clamping ring (holding the gearbox to the fluted tube) and still have plenty of strength. If the 100mm dia. hole runs the length of the 5" thick blocking, it will be hard to get any decent grip on the clamping ring. Did you allow extra clearance via a larger hole beneath the upper blocks that the 3-1/4" studs go through? Or did you just counter bore for the nut/washer clearance. Seems as if one could pull out the existing studs and replace them with longer ones, but warranty might be voided (?).
    Rick
     

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