Rub rail

Discussion in 'Main Morgan 38 Sailboat Forum' started by Richard Noddin, Apr 7, 2019.

  1. Richard Noddin

    Richard Noddin Member

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    I'm repairing some rot in a couple of places along the cap rail, and needed to pull off the rub rail before doing any work. Behind the stainless rub rail there is a strip of plastic that fills the semi-circular cross section of the rub rail. This has broken up in places, and I would like to replace it with a new strip. Looks as if the original backing was supplied in pretty long sections. Does anyone have a source for this material?
     
  2. stnick

    stnick lee nicholas

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    When i did that rub rail project i removed the SS rail i founf teak only bonded to the hull every 8 feet or so with a screw . 1in x 1inch square was mostly rotten never vbonded to the hull or the caprail ! I replaced that 1x1 with IPE screwed and west systwm epoxied every 24 inches and screwed to the underside of the cap rail that was epozied on that side to . Before I put the SS strike back on I filled all the old holes cut 6 inches off the ss Putting all the new hols in different places, Than I filled the concave SS with 5200 ! . Now i can Move a pileing on the way into the slip with no fear !!
     
  3. john english

    john english Member

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    My '78 382 had an aluminum rub rail which I replaced with a ss "C" section. When I recently wooded the cap rails for fresh Cetol, I took the rails home and filled the section with 2-part epoxy filler,removed the excess and re installed. The idea was not to break the new finish with sharp edges.
     
  4. Richard Noddin

    Richard Noddin Member

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    Thanks Lee and John,
    I like the idea of filling the back of the ss. Then it can be bedded and screwed back on. The filler won't break down like the plastic strip did.
     
  5. stnick

    stnick lee nicholas

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    I used the 5200 because it would add spring even when it drys its not epoxy hard. But I can bounce off a pileing any day ! Now i used new longer screws in new screw holes ! Do the job once and do it the right way and you will never have to go back and redo it !!
     
  6. Richard Noddin

    Richard Noddin Member

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    Lee, how did you keep the 5200 from running out of the joint between the wood and stainless? Did you tape off the bottom of the long joint?
     
  7. stnick

    stnick lee nicholas

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    As the SS rail was Off for a week while I and a boatwright removed all the 1x1 rotted teak My wife shined the ss and back filled with 5200 ! Than they were set out in the florida sun till they were needed at the end of the project .
    It was not a remove fill and install all in one day , Job . !
     

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