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Cutlass Bearing Replacement - Where Is the Set Screw Located?

svpilgrim

Jeff Lovett
Yesterday I cleaned up and measured Pilgims' (1979 382 Hull#115) cutlass bearing.


Now it is time to remove the old bearing, but I cannot locate the set screw.


I searched along the hull on both sides for evidence of set screw and cannot find any signs. I've never encountered a cutlass bearing w/out a set screw.

Anyone know where the set screw is located? Is there a set screw?

Thanks,

Jeff
 
Mine had two - at 3:00 and 6:00 if you're facing forward. You can't miss them if you have them. I'm guessing that you don't have any.
 
100_0088.jpg Photo I took while hauled out in La Ceiba. Note the dark spot where the opening for the set screw is located
 
I apologize, Jeff, as I'm not at my boat and I do not have pictures of the details that you're looking for.
 
Mine has screws on both sides. I don't know if that was stock or if a previous owner added a second screw.
 
Thanks for the all the replies. Placing one on both sides seem logical to me. I still cannot find any evidence of a set screw on Pilgrim's cutlass. Think I am going to proceed with the removal assuming there is not a set screw. If I run into difficulty, then I will use a saws-all to split the existing cutlass bearing into two halves. I've resorted to the technique before.

Will let you all know how it goes.
 
I replaced my prop shaft last winter. I used the old shaft to hammer out the cutlass bearing. I ran it up the stern tube backwards, placed a large fender washer and nut on the threaded end, and hammered it out. Worked great!
 
When the yard replaced my cutlases bearing I have the same two holes as the pix of bill Williams above 1983 M 384
 
Jeff
My hull is #53, 1978. There are no set screws for the cutlass bearing. The outer race of the bearing is knurled which holds the bearing in place by friction.

Jim
 
I finally got around to removing Pilgrim's cutlass bearing. Based on information provided by you all on the forum. I proceeded as if there were no set screws holding the existing cutlass in place. My first step was to have a local machine shop fabricate a 1/2" thick washer that matched the inside diameter of Pilgirm's shaft log.


This piece was made from an old, scrap stainless steel shaft. I have had a couple other large, stout washers fabricated in a similar manner. I use these washers along with some off the shelf 1/2" all thread rod and 1/2" nuts for a multi-purpose mechanical puller (mostly used for removing thru-hull fittings)


Solo assembly of the makeshift puller on the cutlass bearing took a couple tries...



Once in place the system pulled the cutlass bearing free in a matter of minutes. The force required nearly cracked the 3/4" piece of plywood visible in the images above. The working nut, the one adjacent to plywood in the images above, got very hot during the removal process. It was necessary to frequently apply lubricating oil to prevent the nut from overheating and galling on the all thread rod.


You all were correct, no set screws. It does appear the cutlass was installed with some 5200 or similar product.

When installing the new cutlass bearing, I plan to install a set screw on each side.
 
Thanks for the (as usual) great photos & descriptions, Jeff. Seems your puller assy would be a challenge to assemble 'solo'. You must have used your feet, too. ;);)
 
Hi Jeff, looking at my boat which is out of the water and a couple of other pictures on this thread it appears you are missing a ( for lack of a better word) donut around the outside of the bearing. That is where my set screws are located. I see no other set screws on my unit. Jeff what are the dimensions of the bearing?
 
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Okay...I was told it might be. A cutlass bearing making a squeal after motoring one in a while ...mostly on hot days after about an hour. I have a recording of the sound but can't up load it here. Jeff...could I send you the file?
 
Okay...I was told it might be. A cutlass bearing making a squeal after motoring one in a while ...mostly on hot days after about an hour. I have a recording of the sound but can't up load it here. Jeff...could I send you the file?

Sure. I think you already have my email address, but will send you a personal message with my email address just to be certain.

Seems unlikely you would get a squeak out of a cutlass bearing as it is immersed / lubricated by water.
 
I once had my cutlass bearing spinning with the shaft. It made lots of racket. I got the yard to replace it and install set screws on each side.
 
Tom,

Yikes. Never heard of that happening, but most vessels I encounter do have set screws. What type of noise did the system make when the cutlass was spinning in the log?
 
It sounded like it was grinding. I got the yard to dimple the shaft so the set screws would hold better. As soon as I noticed it, I pulled the boat which prevented damage. By the way, I noticed while sailing with the engine off and gear in neutral.
 
Great Jim. It's very smooth and quiet. I can motor up to hull speed with a 3 blade Kiwi prop. I am very pleased
 
That brings up a question I have concerning the setscrews. Is there a metal insert placed in the fiberglass for the screws?
 
I think they let the set screw cut its own threads. I wasn't there but I doubt they actually used a tap.
 
Tommy
A friend of mine has one of those Kiwi props and loves it. I guess that little twist on the edge makes a difference.

Jim
 
Jim,
The real advantage is the thrust in reverse with less prop walk. It still has some prop walk but it is not nearly as evident.
 
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